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acrylic paint on fired clay

updated mon 30 jun 97

 

ken tighe on sat 14 jun 97

I have made a number of whimsical ceramic sculptures that will be fired
unglazed to cone 6. At this point I intend to do some limited decoration
on the pieces with acrylic paint (well, if you must know, they are foxy
bathing-beauties, sun-goddesses-- the decoration will be simple: sunglasses
and a two-piece bikini). Once painted, is there an application, a fixative
I can apply, like a wax or a varnish or a water-seal that will make the
paint-job more durable? Even better-- is there something that could render
the pieces suitable for the outdoors (even though the acrylics are not so
designed?)-- Many thanks in advance, Ken

Phillips Kathleen on sun 15 jun 97

At 07:55 AM 6/14/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>is there an application . . .

I've had some success using polyurethane (brush on is cheapest) on painted
pots. Good luck!

Kathleen

Paula Rubin on sun 15 jun 97

ken tighe wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have made a number of whimsical ceramic sculptures that will be fired
> unglazed to cone 6. At this point I intend to do some limited decoration
> on the pieces with acrylic paint (well, if you must know, they are foxy
> bathing-beauties, sun-goddesses-- the decoration will be simple: sunglasses
> and a two-piece bikini). Once painted, is there an application, a fixative
> I can apply, like a wax or a varnish or a water-seal that will make the
> paint-job more durable? Even better-- is there something that could render
> the pieces suitable for the outdoors (even though the acrylics are not so
> designed?)-- Many thanks in advance, Ken

Yes Ken,

There are spray sealers for this purpose, Matt, Glossy, Satin etc.
Duncan makes them and I'm sure the other ceramics companys do too.
Duncan ss330 super gloss ceramic sealer
Duncan ss339 super matte
Duncan ss332 clear matte

Paula Rubin
S. Fl

Cindy on sun 15 jun 97

Ken,

You don't have to use acrylics. (No!!!! Don't DO it!!) One
suggestion--try one-stroke underglazes, then refire to 06 or there-abouts.
That will last better than the acrylics, methinks. If you don't mind the
shine, you could also use a clear glaze over the colors for added
durability and cleanability. That would darken the clay (if it's brown or
buff) and thus give your lovelies a deeper tan. Of course, if you use a
clear glaze, you'll have to bisque to 04 or thereabouts, and glaze to ^6
(assuming you use a ^6 glaze, naturally).

Cindy

celine.gura@alz.org on mon 16 jun 97

Ken:

Craft stores carry clear and matt sealers for acrylics. I use whatever brand on
flower pots and haven't had any problems with loss of color or peeling.


Sun, 15 Jun 1997, Paula Rubin wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>ken tighe wrote:
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I have made a number of whimsical ceramic sculptures that will be fired
>> unglazed to cone 6. At this point I intend to do some limited decoration
>> on the pieces with acrylic paint (well, if you must know, they are foxy
>> bathing-beauties, sun-goddesses-- the decoration will be simple: sunglasses
>> and a two-piece bikini). Once painted, is there an application, a fixative
>> I can apply, like a wax or a varnish or a water-seal that will make the
>> paint-job more durable? Even better-- is there something that could render
>> the pieces suitable for the outdoors (even though the acrylics are not so
>> designed?)-- Many thanks in advance, Ken
>
>
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Celine Gura
Personal: celine.gura@alz.org
Library: greenfld@alz.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Suzanne Storer on mon 16 jun 97

Ken,
It is surprising how durable acrylic paint can be in the outdoors. I have
found that when acrylic paint is applied as a thin wash over and over again
it soaks well into the clay, avoids that plastic look, and remains quite
constant. I would not sell such work under the impression that the colors
will not change or degrade over time however if they're placed outdoors.
Suzanne Storer
At 07:55 AM 6/14/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have made a number of whimsical ceramic sculptures that will be fired
>unglazed to cone 6. At this point I intend to do some limited decoration
>on the pieces with acrylic paint (well, if you must know, they are foxy
>bathing-beauties, sun-goddesses-- the decoration will be simple: sunglasses
>and a two-piece bikini). Once painted, is there an application, a fixative
>I can apply, like a wax or a varnish or a water-seal that will make the
>paint-job more durable? Even better-- is there something that could render
>the pieces suitable for the outdoors (even though the acrylics are not so
>designed?)-- Many thanks in advance, Ken
>

boutique@mail.island.net on mon 16 jun 97

Ken

We have used a couple of different Duncan products for something
similar. Duncan #SS 330C Super Gloss Ceramic Sealer and #SS 334C
Porcelain Ceramic Sealer, have both worked well. I am certain that
they would be available at any local ceramic supplier.

We have not used them for outdoor use, so I am not certain how well
they will stand up in that environment.

Please note the spraying instructions re: flammable, well ventilated
etc.

Good Luck

Dave Quist
Fine Art Productions

Teresa Murphy(TMurphy889@aol.com) on tue 17 jun 97

Ken,
This probably won't be much help, but I saw a product that is acrylic paint
and stains for the outdoor environment. I believe it was by Duncan. There
is a network called Home and Garden Television (HGTV). They just had a show
on the 97Arts and Crafts convention. This is broadcast several times a
month, if you can catch it you can get the exact name of this product and
some other cool stuff. Hope this helped a little.
Teresa

Judy & Howard Brager on thu 19 jun 97

Why shouldn't acrylics be used on non-functional pieces? Mark Burns and
other potter/sculptors do it with great success. IMHO acrylics are an
interesting alternative on the right things.

At 11:25 AM 6/15/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Ken,
>
>You don't have to use acrylics. (No!!!! Don't DO it!!) One
>suggestion--try one-stroke underglazes, then refire to 06 or there-abouts.
>That will last better than the acrylics, methinks. If you don't mind the
>shine, you could also use a clear glaze over the colors for added
>durability and cleanability. That would darken the clay (if it's brown or
>buff) and thus give your lovelies a deeper tan. Of course, if you use a
>clear glaze, you'll have to bisque to 04 or thereabouts, and glaze to ^6
>(assuming you use a ^6 glaze, naturally).
>
>Cindy
>
>

celine.gura@alz.org on fri 20 jun 97

Not only are acrylics are ok for pottery but they are CHEAPER and SAFER to use
than the underglazes. Some of the underglazes are toxic and costly if bought in
large quantities- especially if you are using a lot of acrylics. As for wear, I
handpaint terra cotta flowerpots for friends with acrylics for their outside
gardens and haven't had a problem with the fading or peeling.

On Thu, 19 Jun 1997, Judy & Howard Brager wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Why shouldn't acrylics be used on non-functional pieces? Mark Burns and
>other potter/sculptors do it with great success. IMHO acrylics are an
>interesting alternative on the right things.
>
>At 11:25 AM 6/15/97 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Ken,
>>
>>You don't have to use acrylics. (No!!!! Don't DO it!!) One
>>suggestion--try one-stroke underglazes, then refire to 06 or there-abouts.
>>That will last better than the acrylics, methinks. If you don't mind the
>>shine, you could also use a clear glaze over the colors for added
>>durability and cleanability. That would darken the clay (if it's brown or
>>buff) and thus give your lovelies a deeper tan. Of course, if you use a
>>clear glaze, you'll have to bisque to 04 or thereabouts, and glaze to ^6
>>(assuming you use a ^6 glaze, naturally).
>>
>>Cindy
>>
>>
>
>
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Celine Gura
Personal: celine.gura@alz.org
Library: greenfld@alz.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

ken tighe on fri 20 jun 97

For Judy and /or Howard Bragg-- Thank you for your interest in this thread.
It started because I needed some simple technical advice. The response
was terrific, and I learned all I need to know. Cindy (whose post you take
issue with) was one of many kind enough to offer help. My take on her
position is that she was trying to steer me in the direction that would
bring me the most durable results for my sculptures, i.e ceramic glazes--
and I think she's right about this. As a potter my first instinct was to
use my own cone 6 glazes (I've had bad luck with underglazes and clear
glazes to cover them). Then the idea of acrylics hit me. I have a drawer
full of paints from my painter-wannabe days. In the past I've used these
tubes in conjunction with floor wax and clear shoe polish for patinating
sculpture. Bingo-- there are no rules! The beauty of acrylics is the
unimited range of available color. It'll be fun and I can't wait. There
are no Sculpture Police in my neighborhood. Thanks again to everyone (&
that means you Cindy), Ken.

Cindy on sun 22 jun 97

Hi, Ken (and defenders )

Everybody can relax now, because I assure you I have no problem with Ken's
using acrylics on his sun goddesses. My post was:
#1--intended to be somewhat of a tease, since we had just had such a hot
discussion regarding painted pots, and
#2--to make sure he was available of all the options.
Sorry I was so emphatic--not fair of me to expect you to see my impish grin
over the modem lines.

Cindy