Margery Shore on sat 12 apr 97
I am a first timer here so "bare" (ode to Paul Soldner) with me please.
I have a couple of questions for those using air brushes to apply there
glazes or decoration.
Do you ball mill before use in the airbrush. Were the spray guns totally
I would like to experiment on this type of application, consequently,
I'd appreciate any comments.
Thanks much to the list.
Marg (down in rainy Baton Rouge)
Ric Swenson on sun 13 apr 97
>I am a first timer here so "bare" (ode to Paul Soldner) with me please.
>I have a couple of questions for those using air brushes to apply there
>glazes or decoration.
>Do you ball mill before use in the airbrush. Were the spray guns totally
>I would like to experiment on this type of application, consequently,
>I'd appreciate any comments.
>Thanks much to the list.
>Marg (down in rainy Baton Rouge)
Hi Marg and potters!
Just a note...
Spraying glaze on a pot is a little different than air brushing on colors.
Unless you like spending hours using an air brush to apply a glaze, or your
pots are VERY small, a GUN is used to spray glaze on a pot and an air brush
might be used to decorate or apply areas of color, or blushes, or stenciled
areas etc, of color... in the form of stains or oxides mixed with some
glaze, or applied lightly enough to give a pleasant color.
I have always used a "mouth operated" air brush...simple little thing
that can apply great area of blush colors on salt pieces or nice little
porcelain boxes. I'm not that much into "tight control", so the simple
little "blow in here and stick the end that sucks up the stain in the 3 oz
jar." works just fine for most of my purposes.
To each his/her own. I already posted some information yesterday on BINKS
Remember that if you ball mill materials you do a couple things: It mixes
the materials together really well (which is a good thing) AND it reduces
the particle size of the material the thereby can lower the firing
temperature slightly....or if you ball mill for a LONG time, it could
change the temperature a cone more. That is particulary true if you ball
mill the entire glaze. Ball milling a stain with a little bit of glaze to
make it smoother to use will probably not adversely affect the material.
BUT That CAN make a difference in how it looks....so before you experiment
on the good pots....use some "shards", or "rejects" or "clinkers" for
Just my experience. You should Experiment!
Ric Swenson, Bennington, Vermont
bonus points to the potter that can tell us where the word "pitcher" comes
from? (Baseball fans needn't apply.) There may be many different answers,
but I like the one I heard in Victoria, B.C. years ago of the words
Medieval origins in England.....
Deborah on mon 14 apr 97
This is my first post here too :) . I
have been using a paasche airbrush to apply both underglazes and glases.
First in general, I have found the little cup works better than the
bottle. The rim of the bottle invariably gets gritty and then getting the
lid on becomes difficult, and refilling the jar soon become frustrating.
Dipping the little cup (still attached to the airbrush) is quick and easy
and works for me. One just has to remember to wipe any drips off the
bottom of the cup *before* they land on the pottery.
I have tried both commercial and my own glaze recipe. There are pros and
cons to both. The commercial glaze I have been using is very smooth and
flows out of the brush well, however there is a lot of gerstley borate in
this glaze which tends to settle in the bottom of the cup (and in the
*straw* of the bottle too. Basically that means I have to wash the tip
more frequently. I keep a large bowl of water handy and just stick the
tip of the airbrush into it and blow clear water through it. My
favourite glaze (a clear transparent) is somewhat gritty and doesn't flow
that well out of the airbrush. I don't have a ballmill but I find
mashing it about with a mortar and pestle works fine and clears up that
Deboah in Newfoundland (the land of "will Spring ever arrive?)