Henry Pope on wed 20 nov 96
Hi Folks - I have been testing Laguna's B-Mix for a bit with some disheartening
and unnerving results. The clay seems to be dunting without much provocation.
I'm firing to cone 9+ in a heavy reduction atmosphere from about 1925 deg. F.
upward. The clay has apparently dunted under a pretty innocuous ash glaze and
under R. Yoder liner glaze. The dunting isn't invariable; other glazes seem to
fit OK--or the clay seems to fit the glaze. Has anyone else had similar results
with this clay? I'm wondering if B-Mix isn't a porcelain-type formula but
without enough feldspar to absorb too large an amount of free silica in the mix?
The clay is very (grey)white for a stoneware--or very grey for a porcelain. The
same glazes perform fine on other clay bodies, including a grolleg porcelain.
I would be glad to hear from any clayarters who have used this clay or know
something about its formulation. The clay is super clay aside from this
unfortunate flaw. Very plastic and smooth and light colored for a stoneware.
Thanks, Henry Pope
mikpo@sprynet.com
and Charlottesville, VA
Richard Aerni on wed 20 nov 96
Hi Henry,
I'm just going to offer up some second hand anecdotal evidence to you
about the B-mix. I've heard great things about it, but haven't gotten to
test it cuz Laguna left it off my last order. When I was out at Steven
Hill's house this summer, he was showing me some of his new pots(still
raw) made from the B-mix, and raving about it's throwing and forming
properties. When I saw him again later on in the summer, he mentioned
that everything he'd refired (he does a fair amount of that) from the
B-mix pots had dunted. I don't know how or if he's solved the problem.
If you're looking for info on the B-mix, you might try contacting Jim
Cooper at Laguna's Denver CO facility. He's would have the scoop and is
mighty helpful.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Henry Pope wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Folks - I have been testing Laguna's B-Mix for a bit with some disheartenin
> and unnerving results. The clay seems to be dunting without much provocation.
> I'm firing to cone 9+ in a heavy reduction atmosphere from about 1925 deg. F.
> upward. The clay has apparently dunted under a pretty innocuous ash glaze and
> under R. Yoder liner glaze. The dunting isn't invariable; other glazes seem t
> fit OK--or the clay seems to fit the glaze. Has anyone else had similar resul
> with this clay? I'm wondering if B-Mix isn't a porcelain-type formula but
> without enough feldspar to absorb too large an amount of free silica in the mi
> The clay is very (grey)white for a stoneware--or very grey for a porcelain. T
> same glazes perform fine on other clay bodies, including a grolleg porcelain.
>
> I would be glad to hear from any clayarters who have used this clay or know
> something about its formulation. The clay is super clay aside from this
> unfortunate flaw. Very plastic and smooth and light colored for a stoneware.
>
> Thanks, Henry Pope
> mikpo@sprynet.com
> and Charlottesville, VA
Tony Hansen on thu 21 nov 96
You are right about the B-Mix dunting. I've run it through our lab and
have a profile of the fired shrinkage and porosity over a wide range of
temperatures. The cone 6 B-Mix is not vitreous enough, therefore the
feldspar has had little chance to work its magic. I can post the test
results if needed.
--
Tony Hansen, IMC - Pulishers of INSIGHT, FORESIGHT, Magic of Fire
web: http://digitalfire.com/imc.html
Peggy Heer on fri 22 nov 96
Tony...what about the cone 10 B-Mix????
As Always in Clay Peggy
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>You are right about the B-Mix dunting. I've run it through our lab and
>have a profile of the fired shrinkage and porosity over a wide range of
>temperatures. The cone 6 B-Mix is not vitreous enough, therefore the
>feldspar has had little chance to work its magic. I can post the test
>results if needed.
>
>--
>Tony Hansen, IMC - Pulishers of INSIGHT, FORESIGHT, Magic of Fire
>web: http://digitalfire.com/imc.html
Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
Edmonton AB, Canada
http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
Kathy McDonald on sun 24 nov 96
Peggy Heer wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Tony...what about the cone 10 B-Mix????
> As Always in Clay Peggy
>
I was also wondering about the Cone 10 B-mix....
I have been using it about 6 months now and must say
that I find it a really great throwing and firing body.
What did your tests show on it Tony???
Kathy Mcdonald
Roger Gallardo on wed 27 nov 96
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 10:21:09 EST
From: Richard Aerni
Subject: Re: B-Mix
----------------------------Original
message---------------------------- Hi Henry,
I'm just going to offer up some second hand anecdotal evidence to you
about the B-mix. I've heard great things about it, but haven't gotten
to test it cuz Laguna left it off my last order. When I was out at
Steven Hill's house this summer, he was showing me some of his new
pots(still raw) made from the B-mix, and raving about it's throwing
and forming properties. When I saw him again later on in the summer,
he mentioned that everything he'd refired (he does a fair amount of
that) from the B-mix pots had dunted. I don't know how or if he's
solved the problem. If you're looking for info on the B-mix, you might
try contacting Jim Cooper at Laguna's Denver CO facility. He's would
have the scoop and is mighty helpful.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Henry Pope wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original
> message---------------------------- Hi Folks - I have been testing
> Laguna's B-Mix for a bit with some disheartenin and unnerving
> results. The clay seems to be dunting without much provocation. I'm
> firing to cone 9+ in a heavy reduction atmosphere from about 1925
> deg. F. upward. The clay has apparently dunted under a pretty
> innocuous ash glaze and under R. Yoder liner glaze. The dunting
> isn't invariable; other glazes seem t fit OK--or the clay seems to
> fit the glaze. Has anyone else had similar resul with this clay?
> I'm wondering if B-Mix isn't a porcelain-type formula but without
> enough feldspar to absorb too large an amount of free silica in the
> mi The clay is very (grey)white for a stoneware--or very grey for a
> porcelain. T same glazes perform fine on other clay bodies,
> including a grolleg porcelain.
>
> I would be glad to hear from any clayarters who have used this clay
> or know something about its formulation. The clay is super clay
> aside from this unfortunate flaw. Very plastic and smooth and
> light colored for a stoneware.
>
> Thanks, Henry Pope
> mikpo@sprynet.com
> and Charlottesville, VA
------------------------------
THIS IS A RESPONSE TO SOME INQUIRIES ABOUT LAGUNA CLAY'S WC-379
B-MIX. BELOW ARE A FEW NOTES ABOUT THE PROBLEMS AND RESOLUTIONS TO
THESE PROBLEMS.
1) HAVING A CLAY BODY WITH A GOOD BALANCE OF FREE SILICA IS VERY
IMPORTANT. IF A CLAY BODY HAS MORE THAN 25% SILICA, THIS CAN CAUSE
DUNTING.
2) TOO MUCH MELT FROM SILICA IN A CLAY BODY LOWERS THE COEFFICIENT OF
EXPANSION AND WILL USUALLY CAUSE CRAZING PROBLEMS. FOR THIS REASON
AND AS A GENERAL RULE, 200 MESH SILICA IN A CLAY BODY IS RECOMMENDED.
3) ALSO, USING TOO LITTLE SILICA IN A CLAY BODY CAN ALSO CAUSE
CRAZING.
4) ONE OF MANY "CERAMIC RULES" IS THAT NOT ALL GLAZES WILL FIT ALL
CLAY BODIES.
5) IN REFERENCE TO THE INQUIRY FROM H. POPE, UNFORTUNATELY, THERE WAS
NO INFORMATION ABOUT THE GLAZES OR THEIR APPLICATION TO SUBSTANTIATE
ANY REASONS FOR THE DUNTING.
6) WHEN A GLAZE IS APPLIED TOO THICK, THE GLAZE CAN EXERT A
TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF COMPRESSION. GLAZES WITH HIGH COMPRESSION CAN
CAUSE DUNTING.
7) WHEN A GLAZE IS ONLY APPLIED TO ONE SIDE OF A PIECE (INSIDE OR
OUTSIDE), THIS CAN CAUSE UNDUE STRESS ON THE CLAY BODY AND CAUSE
DUNTING.
8) ALSO, IF USING TWO (OR MORE) DIFFERENT GLAZES ON THE INSIDE AND
OUTSIDE OF A PIECE, THIS CAN CAUSE VARYING STRESS DEPENDING ON THE
COEFFICIENT OF EXPANSION OF THE DIFFERENT GLAZES, THEREBY CAUSING
DUNTING.
9) POTS THAT ARE REFIRED AFTER THE GLAZE FIRING WILL DEVELOP MORE
CRISTOBALITE SILICA. THIS CAN CAUSE THE POT TO BE MORE PRONE TO
DUNTING AT THE CRISTOBALITE INVERSION AROUND 225 C. POSITIONING THE
POT OFF THE SHELF CAN HELP PREVENT DUNTING. USING A PIECE OF FIBER
INSULATION OR PIECES OF SOFT BRICK CAN HELP. COOLING SLOWER THROUGH
SILICA INVERSION IS THE SMART THING TO DO.
10) B-MIX IS A PORCELANEOUS CLAY BODY. IT IS A BALANCED FORMULA FOR
THROWING, GLAZE FIT, AND OTHER CHARACTERISTICS THAT POTTER'S DESIRE.
NATURALLY, PORCELAINS ARE MORE PRONE TO DUNTING THAN GROGGY STONEWARE
CLAY BODIES.
Jim Kassebaum on fri 8 aug 97
------------------
Several thoughts on B-Mix...
Over the past week there have been several comments regarding either =
cracking or
joining problems when using B-Mix. Of the 155 clay bodies we sell, B-Mix is
near the top of the list in popularity. Millions of pounds of B-Mix are =
shipped
each year primarily because it is a very plastic, throwable, =22potter =
friendly=22
clay. The trade off is that the same materials that create its plasticity =
also
make B-Mix prone to cracking if it is not dried in a slow, even and =
controlled
manner.
The most satisfactory drying method we have found is to cover your B-Mix
greenware with the plastic bags which are used by most dry cleaners. This =
thin
plastic will conform well to the shapes of your ware while still breathing
enough to allow controlled circulation of the air. Even if you dry in a
cabinet, the level of humidity in the cabinet must be fairly constant to
properly dry greenware. The key is that all portions of your ware dry at an
even pace, and this can only happen if the drying process is slow.
Other references to cracking in the glaze firing most likely do not relate =
to
the raw clay body but rather from thermal shock created when the bisque =
firing
was at too low a temperature. We recommend a minimum of cone 06 for white =
and
porcelain type clays. If these clays are bisqued any lower they are prone =
to
thermal shock in the cooling of the bisque or in the heating of the glaze
firing.
As we all know, the art form in which we work in is driven by a fairly =
complex
science. Nothing is quite as simple as it appears, and for that reason we
welcome and encourage your questions and comments to our tech support group =
-
either by phone =5B(800) 452-4862 ext. 214=5D fax =5B(626) 333-7694=5D or =
e-mail
=5Binfo=40lagunaclay.com=5D.
A final through would be to keep in mind that the reason we offer 155 stock =
clay
bodies, and the reason other clay manufacturers offer multiple choices, is =
that
one clay is not right for everyone. If you are not satisfied with the =
results
you are presently experiencing, give
Jim Kassebaum on sat 16 aug 97
I'll give this another try. When I sent the following message last
week (fron Kinkos in Baltimore to my Laguna Office in California
and then on to all dedicated Clayarters) it apparently got scrambled
along the way. Hopefully this time around will be more successful.
Original 8/7 Message:
Several thoughts on B-Mix...
Over the past week there have been several comments regarding either
cracking or joining problems when using B-Mix. Of the 155 clay bodies
we sell, B-Mix is near the top of the list in popularity. Millions of
pounds of B-Mix are shipped each year primarily because it is a very
plastic, throwable, "potter friendly" clay. The trade off is that the
same materials that create its plasticity also make B-Mix prone to
cracking if it is not dried in a slow, even and controlled manner.
The most satisfactory drying method we have found is to cover your
B-Mix greenware with the plastic bags which are used by most dry
cleaners. This thin plastic will conform well to the shapes of your
ware while still breathing enough to allow controlled circulation of
the air. Even if you dry in a cabinet, the level of humidity in the
cabinet must be fairly constant to properly dry greenware. The key is
that all portions of your ware dry at an even pace, and this can only
happen if the drying process is slow.
Other references to cracking in the glaze firing most likely do not
relate to the raw clay body but rather from thermal shock created when
the bisque firing was at too low a temperature. We recommend a
minimum of cone 06 for white and porcelain type clays. If these clays
are bisqued any lower they are prone to thermal shock in the cooling
of the bisque or in the heating of the glaze firing.
As we all know, the art form in which we work in is driven by a fairly
complex science. Nothing is quite as simple as it appears, and for
that reason we welcome and encourage your questions and comments to
our tech support group - either by phone [(800) 452-4862 ext. 214] fax
[(626) 333-7694] or e-mail [info@lagunaclay.com].
A final thought would be to keep in mind that the reason we offer 155
stock clay bodies, and the reason other clay manufacturers offer
multiple choices, is that one clay is not right for everyone. If you
are not satisfied with the results you are presently experiencing,
give us a call and find out which body might be more suitable for your
specific application. Best Regards, Jim Kassebaum, GM Laguna Clay.
Earl Brunner on thu 28 may 98
It's my understanding that the original B-mix formula did not contain bentonite.
I mean, It could only be considered the reason for the problems IF it is in the
Mark Heimann on sat 30 may 98
B-mix is kinda a double-edged sword. I've experienced the "hard grey lump"
problem
and the cracking blues. The thing is, B-mix is great for picking up color
in my Cone 10 reduction glazes and is a terrific flasher in anagama-fire.
B-mix with sand works better for me technically, as I do additions to
thrown stuff. Craig's description of bone-dry rims and wet cheeze feet is
funny and accurate. Better living through dry-cleaner bags!
I reckon it comes down to that personal choice thing, and makes me think of
the folks in Shigaraki and other places worldwide without industrial
refinements who contend with far worse problems, lumps rocks organics and
general crud -- and still can create incredible stuff.
Endeavor to persevere.
Mark Heimann, Oregon
Chris Cantello on thu 2 mar 00
------------------
Hi out there. Someone asked about Laguna B-Mix in response to my? About
Gerstley Borate. Well I missed your e-mail so e-mail back. I wish I had all
the answers
But I don=92t. In general I think B-Mix is very good clay but those of us
that have been
Using it for years know that it=92s been inconsistent to a point that there
is a big law suet going on and Laguna is trying to clean its act up. I have
heard many excuses for the problems, so many that it=92s hard to think about
them so I=92m not. As for glazes fit Laguna B-Mix will fit most of the time
and I very rarely have any crazing. But the inconsistence is the big ? When
will it ever get back to its former self I wished I new? Try it, use it,
and throw it, whichever way you like on the wheel or at the wall. After its
in your studio what else can you do it cost more to take it back, shipping,
time, the hassles so on and so forth. As you can tell I=92m pissed and so
would you if you had been throwing B- Mix for the last 15 to 20 years. I
guess that=92s how it goes when you get to big for your own shoes, in the =
end
you forget ho really got you were you are=21=21=21 The little guys the guy =
that
was there when Laguna was started, when Laguna was Laguna. Not Laguna-West
Wood, pissed and crazed. Chris =21
Christine ROSE on fri 3 mar 00
------------------
At Glendale High School, we too, have been using BMix for a number of
years.During part of the semester I order it with sand for handbuilding and
sculptural work. That's when I find it really inconsistent - the amount of =
sand
can vary from bag to bag. In the Mix without the sand, it is sometimes like
porcelain and sometimes like stoneware. Yet despite all it's faults, I =
still
love it.
Christine Rose
Glendale High School
1440 E. Broadway
Glendale, CA 91205
Dave Finkelnburg on fri 3 mar 00
Can anyone tell me, are the B-mix problems with the cone-5 version, cone-10,
or both? Thanks!
Dave Finkelnburg
dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Cantello
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 3:07 PM
Subject: B-MIX
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
Hi out there. Someone asked about Laguna B-Mix in response to my? About
Gerstley Borate. Well I missed your e-mail so e-mail back. I wish I had all
the answers
But I don t. In general I think B-Mix is very good clay but those of us
that have been
Using it for years know that it s been inconsistent to a point that there
is a big law suet going on and Laguna is trying to clean its act up. I have
heard many excuses for the problems, so many that it s hard to think about
them so I m not. As for glazes fit Laguna B-Mix will fit most of the time
and I very rarely have any crazing. But the inconsistence is the big ? When
will it ever get back to its former self I wished I new? Try it, use it,
and throw it, whichever way you like on the wheel or at the wall. After its
in your studio what else can you do it cost more to take it back, shipping,
time, the hassles so on and so forth. As you can tell I m pissed and so
would you if you had been throwing B- Mix for the last 15 to 20 years. I
guess that s how it goes when you get to big for your own shoes, in the end
you forget ho really got you were you are!!! The little guys the guy that
was there when Laguna was started, when Laguna was Laguna. Not Laguna-West
Wood, pissed and crazed. Chris !
David McDonald on sat 4 mar 00
Chris,
I lost 2 months worth of work last summer, due to what I experienced as
a truely bad series of clay shipments from Laguna. What I can offer you
is that inconsistent batches and qualities of clay from this company is
nothing new, judging from all the reports I've read in the past, and if
you decide to continue using it, I for one would like for you to know
that.
As for me, I will not spend another dollar in their direction, until I
can see some pretty convincing, longterm evidence of a change in their
desire to put some substance back into the words they like to use in
their advertising. Words like "Quality", and "Expert Technical Support".
At a time when there ARE clay suppliers producing products like clay
bodies in manners which show great conscientious efforts on their parts
to formulate AND maintain, I've grown to have very little patience in
businesses who are more talk than substance. In my honorable opinion.
David McDonald
On Thu, 2 Mar 2000 16:59:27 EST Chris Cantello
writes:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> ------------------
> Hi out there. Someone asked about Laguna B-Mix in response to my?
> About
> Gerstley Borate. Well I missed your e-mail so e-mail back. I wish I
> had all
> the answers
> But I don t. In general I think B-Mix is very good clay but those of
> us
> that have been
> Using it for years know that it s been inconsistent to a point that
> there
> is a big law suet going on and Laguna is trying to clean its act up.
> I have
> heard many excuses for the problems, so many that it s hard to think
> about
> them so I m not. As for glazes fit Laguna B-Mix will fit most of the
> time
> and I very rarely have any crazing. But the inconsistence is the big
> ? When
> will it ever get back to its former self I wished I new? Try it, use
> it,
> and throw it, whichever way you like on the wheel or at the wall.
> After its
> in your studio what else can you do it cost more to take it back,
> shipping,
> time, the hassles so on and so forth. As you can tell I m pissed and
> so
> would you if you had been throwing B- Mix for the last 15 to 20
> years. I
> guess that s how it goes when you get to big for your own shoes, in
> the end
> you forget ho really got you were you are!!! The little guys the guy
> that
> was there when Laguna was started, when Laguna was Laguna. Not
> Laguna-West
> Wood, pissed and crazed. Chris !
David McDonald
Limberlost Pottery
721 First Street
Prescott,AZ 86301
(520)778-7854 claydog@juno.com
________________________________________________________________
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Jim Kassebaum on sat 4 mar 00
Regarding Chris Cantello's B-Mix posting. Since no one at Laguna is aware of
ever talking with Chris about his problem, I can only address the two
general issues he raises (1) We test each batch of B-Mix (as well as all our
other clay bodies), and the quality is high and consistent. Do we ever make
a mistake? Of course. And if your problem is our mistake, we will make it
right. Even in cases where problems result from factors other than the clay
body, we can frequently help customers solve those problems as well.
Laguna has have three technicians on staff who specialize in this support.
They have a combined total of over 110 years of ceramic experience, and
their primary goal is to advance the level of ceramic knowledge both within
and outside Laguna Clay. Since the arrival of clay manager Jon Pacini two
years ago, a number of features have been implemented to further enhance our
level of quality control. Jon personally tests every batch of clay we make,
and he is available at extension 228 to discuss problems and solutions with
all Laguna customers; but if you don't call, we can't help.
(2) Mr. Cantello mentioned a law suit. Laguna is not now nor have we ever
been involved in a law suit over any of our products. I am not sure of the
motivation behind such an allegation, but perhaps it would be prudent for
all of us utilizing the internet to verify the accuracy of the information
we post.
As always, our three tech reps welcome your calls about your use and
experience with Laguna products.
joe@lagunaclay.com (attention Joe Koons) for general clay, equipment and
firing questions.
jpacini@lagunaclay.com (attention Jon Pacini) for technical clay questions
or problems.
info@lagunaclay.com (attention John Miller) for glaze questions.
Jim Kassebaum
Laguna Clay Co
626/330-0631x223
800/452-4862x223
jim@lagunaclay.com
www.lagunaclay.com
Chris Cantello on sat 4 mar 00
I think Its ^10 only and it may allready be tacken care of please don,t
get nuts over this. It could also be the Gerstery Borate in my glaze ok.
Thank You All Chris.
Joyce Lee on sun 5 mar 00
I haven't ordered any in awhile because I'm using dark clays right now,
but I liked working with Tom Coleman's B-Mix. Aardvark did carry it and
probably still does. I thought it was great.
Joyce
In the Mojave wondering how and what to take along to NCECA. Seems to me
that cameras and pots will take up most of the available room if one is
flying, which I am. Maybe I'll just mail the swapping-for-plates
bowls.....much simpler.
will edwards on tue 17 jul 01
Hi,
I'm sorry to hear that Libby H. is having troubles with B-mix. I use both=
^10
and ^5-7 B-mix and it has a few minor nuances. One that helps me is to ma=
ke
the attachments as soon as possible while the piece still contains maximu=
m
moisture but has began to harden.
Sometimes I have used vinegar but I make my slips with vinegar and the cl=
ay
body I am using. B-Mix is a fine particle material that will dry quickly =
and
if the moisture between the two pieces being attached are not close or eq=
ual,
then you will see the problems associated with it as you would any simila=
r
clay like that.
Also you need to cover your work even if it is vertical and allow the pie=
ces
to equalize out for a period of time. Plates and flat surfaces may need m=
ore
time. Its a super clean clay which provides a very white surface for grea=
t
glaze work. Of course these are based on my experiences only.
William Edwards
KLeSueur@AOL.COM on fri 10 aug 01
I don't use B-mix or bee-mix. So I can't speak to any problems people are
having with their clay. But in my experience most clay problems are a result
of not understanding the limitations of a particular body.
Example: I use Armadillo's Balcones clay. I ship it from Texas to Michigan
because I love the clay. I used it there and it's worth the freight to use it
here. Every once in a while someone comes to the studio and wants to try a
bag of it. I tell them- do not fast dry. Do not try to throw very large forms
without adding grog. And whatever you do, do not fast fire or fast cool the
bisque. They love working with the clay. But they get cracking in bisque.
When I ask for their firing schedule I find out that they pop the lid on the
bisque once the inside is dark. They fast cool it. The clay gets fine cracks.
Listen to the clay. it will tell you what it needs. If you don't want to give
it....... find another clay.
Kathi LeSueur
Collette Smith on fri 8 aug 08
Does anyone know what is in B-Mix? I'm asking b/c it takes sooo long for it to dry. Much more so that any other clay body I've used.
thanks
Collette
John Rodgers on fri 8 aug 08
Collette,
I can't answer your question for certain, but I use it a lot. Like it a
lot. I thinkit has neph syenite, ball clay, kaolin, bentonite, in it.
Don't know what else. I find that if I keep the clay thin - like less
than 1/2 inch and closer to 1/4 inch, it works well, drys well, fires
well. No drying or firing cracks - usually. I have had B-mix pieces
crack in the glaze firing straight across the piece. One side only would
crack to the middle of a bowl or what not. and sometimes I have had
pieces crack straight through and I would find two halves laying there
after opening the kiln. I don't know why, but fortunately it's not often.
I will force dry pieces on my kiln when firing other pieces. . To do
this successfully I have to make sure the pieces are thin, otherwise
they crack. But I do it a good bit.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Collette Smith wrote:
> Does anyone know what is in B-Mix? I'm asking b/c it takes sooo long for it to dry. Much more so that any other clay body I've used.
> thanks
> Collette
>
>
>
Peter Coates on sat 9 aug 08
Hey there Collette
I use B-mix as my main clay. I doesn't appear to me to dry any slower
then any of the other clays, if it did that would be a very very good
thing...
if you look way the heck back in the archives you will see where the
creator of B-mix wrote to clayart to talk about the clay body. He
gives the general ingredients, nothing odd in the mix.
Peter in Oklahoma...
On Aug 8, 2008, at 6:44 AM, Collette Smith wrote:
> Does anyone know what is in B-Mix? I'm asking b/c it takes sooo
> long for it to dry. Much more so that any other clay body I've
> used.
> thanks
> Collette
Randall Moody on sun 30 aug 09
I am starting to use B-Mix again. I tried it when it first came out years
ago and wasn't impressed since it S cracked like crazy and gave up. It
appears that it has changed and I am now enjoying good results with it. Now
the question. When you are giving the description of the piece what do you
call it? Porcelaineous stoneware, Stoneware... Something else? Calling it
B-Mix sounds a bit odd since I wouldn't call my stoneware work "205G".
--
Randall in Atlanta
John Rodgers on sun 30 aug 09
Randall,
Three quarters of my work is with B-mix - both the pugged throwing B-mix
(^6) clay and the slip casting B-mix (^6) The rest is in porcelain -
usually Standards. I buy the B-mix in the 50 lb boxes, and the B-mix
slip dry-bagged and mix it when it gets here. I find it very easy to mix
and match pieces and parts of the two types together as their
composition is sufficiently close. I also find I can use Standard
porcelain and B-mix throwing clay together when making pieces and parts
as in handles, decoration, etc. For some work, I will use a ceramic
plasticizer from Colorrific Porcelain, Inc. called Goop. I mix it with
slip, and then pour out onto a flat plaster surface. When the plaster
has dried it sufficiently so that is is workable as a solid body, I will
ball it up and make decorator things from that. Leaves, flowers, vines
etc. It is very flexy, easy to handle, doesn't dry out rapidly,
I consider B-mix to properly be a porcelainous stoneware. It has
sufficient qualities - and components - that are sufficiently close to
porcelain that they can work together. quite well.
One thing however ........ my most recent batches of B-mix have had a
few bloating problems. I'm not sure if it's something I'm doing or if it
is something different about the B-mix as from Laguna, but it sure has
been a PITA lately
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Randall Moody wrote:
> I am starting to use B-Mix again. I tried it when it first came out years
> ago and wasn't impressed since it S cracked like crazy and gave up. It
> appears that it has changed and I am now enjoying good results with it. N=
ow
> the question. When you are giving the description of the piece what do yo=
u
> call it? Porcelaineous stoneware, Stoneware... Something else? Calling it
> B-Mix sounds a bit odd since I wouldn't call my stoneware work "205G".
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
>
>
>
The Fuzzy Chef on sun 30 aug 09
On 8/30/09 8:02 AM, Randall Moody wrote:
> I am starting to use B-Mix again. I tried it when it first came out years
> ago and wasn't impressed since it S cracked like crazy and gave up. It
> appears that it has changed and I am now enjoying good results with it. N=
ow
> the question. When you are giving the description of the piece what do yo=
u
> call it? Porcelaineous stoneware, Stoneware... Something else? Calling it
> B-Mix sounds a bit odd since I wouldn't call my stoneware work "205G".
I tend to just call it stoneware.
BTW, use the cone 10 B-Mix, not the Cone 5, even if you're only firing
to Cone 6. The Cone 5 isn't as plastic, and will actually warp and sag
at Cone 6.
--Josh
Janet Moe on sun 30 aug 09
I have heard this before but I am wondering what percentage absorption you
get at cone 6?
Janet, on Vancouver Island
> BTW, use the cone 10 B-Mix, not the Cone 5, even if you're only firing
> to Cone 6. The Cone 5 isn't as plastic, and will actually warp and sag
> at Cone 6.
>
> --Josh
>
Randall Moody on sun 30 aug 09
I should clarify that I am using cone 10 B-Mix.
--
Randall in Atlanta
John Rodgers on sun 30 aug 09
A correction on my part. The B-mix I use is ^5 - but I fire to ^6
depending on the glaze.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
John Rodgers wrote:
> Randall,
>
> Three quarters of my work is with B-mix - both the pugged throwing B-mix
> (^6) clay and the slip casting B-mix (^6) The rest is in porcelain -
> usually Standards. I buy the B-mix in the 50 lb boxes, and the B-mix
> slip dry-bagged and mix it when it gets here. I find it very easy to mix
> and match pieces and parts of the two types together as their
> composition is sufficiently close. I also find I can use Standard
> porcelain and B-mix throwing clay together when making pieces and parts
> as in handles, decoration, etc. For some work, I will use a ceramic
> plasticizer from Colorrific Porcelain, Inc. called Goop. I mix it with
> slip, and then pour out onto a flat plaster surface. When the plaster
> has dried it sufficiently so that is is workable as a solid body, I will
> ball it up and make decorator things from that. Leaves, flowers, vines
> etc. It is very flexy, easy to handle, doesn't dry out rapidly,
>
> I consider B-mix to properly be a porcelainous stoneware. It has
> sufficient qualities - and components - that are sufficiently close to
> porcelain that they can work together. quite well.
>
> One thing however ........ my most recent batches of B-mix have had a
> few bloating problems. I'm not sure if it's something I'm doing or if it
> is something different about the B-mix as from Laguna, but it sure has
> been a PITA lately
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> Randall Moody wrote:
>> I am starting to use B-Mix again. I tried it when it first came out
>> years
>> ago and wasn't impressed since it S cracked like crazy and gave up. It
>> appears that it has changed and I am now enjoying good results with
>> it. Now
>> the question. When you are giving the description of the piece what
>> do you
>> call it? Porcelaineous stoneware, Stoneware... Something else?
>> Calling it
>> B-Mix sounds a bit odd since I wouldn't call my stoneware work "205G".
>> --
>> Randall in Atlanta
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Lee Love on mon 31 aug 09
I used Continental B-Clay which is their version of B-mix and it
rocks! It is great in soda fire and under shino.
--
Lee Love, Minneapolis
"The tea ceremony bowl is the ceramic equivalent of a sonnet: a
small-scale, seemingly constricted form that challenges the artist to
go beyond mere technical virtuosity and find an approach that both
satisfies and transcends the conventions." -- Rob Sliberman
full essay: http://togeika.multiply.com/journal/item/273/
The Fuzzy Chef on tue 1 sep 09
On 8/30/09 11:24 PM, acnec3 wrote:
> I wondering about firing with b-mix ^5.......Will it sag and warp at ^5??=
I bought 2 50 lb boxes awhile ago and am now worried it was a bad investme=
nt of money but more importantly my time.
> I am just moving "up" from low-fire to mid-fire and am in need of good ad=
vise!
Don't know, I always fire it to 6. Still, I'd not use it for anything
which has a lot of warp/sag potential, like platters, sculpture or goblets.
For future purposes, B-mix 10 fuses quite well at cone 6, and I've not
had any issues with chipping.
--Josh Berkus
J Motzkin on sat 19 mar 11
What is the difference in the formula for B-mix 10 and B-mix 6?
Jude
judith motzkin
studio:
7 tufts street
cambridge MA 02139
617-547-5513
www.motzkin.com
Projects
jmotzkin@motzkin.com
William & Susan Schran User on sat 19 mar 11
On 3/19/11 12:05 PM, "J Motzkin" wrote:
> What is the difference in the formula for B-mix 10 and B-mix 6?
Jude, A little bit of magical stuff...
Actually it's B-Mix 5 & 10.
Mid range B-Mix is rated for ^5, though I have fired to ^6/7 in crystallin=
e
schedule with no problems. Others have experienced bloating taking it highe=
r
than ^6.
I was told at one time what's different between 5 & 10 and I seem to recall
the addition of talc to the mid range clay, but we'll have to check with Jo=
n
at Laguna to verify that.
I also use Little Loafer's from Highwater for my ^6 crystalline glaze
firings.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
John Rodgers on sat 19 mar 11
Dunno.
But I use Laguna's C-5 B-mix. Also I use their C-5 B-mix slip as well.
It comes as a dry mix in 50 lb bags and you mix and adjust it yourself.
The formulation is a tiny bit different between the two, but not enough
to notice. Glazes perform equally well on either. Also, you can mix,
match, and assemble parts made with one onto the other with no problems
since the formulations are so close together.
John
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.comWhat is the difference in the formula for B-mix 10=
and B-mix 6?
> Jude
>
> judith motzkin
>
> studio:
> 7 tufts street
> cambridge MA 02139
> 617-547-5513
> www.motzkin.com
> Projects
> jmotzkin@motzkin.com
>
>
Julie Brooks on wed 9 nov 11
Hello All,
Did I read a post which stated we put de-flocculant in our pugged B-Mix=
=3D
clay? Sorry, I cannot find the post right now..but feel some accurate in=
=3D
fo
is needed.
I spoke with the president of Laguna Clay Company and he states...Lagun=
=3D
a
Clay Company never puts deflocculant in any pugged clay bodies.
If at any time you purchase any pugged Laguna Clay (Laguna Clay will ha=
=3D
ve
the Laguna logo on the box) and find it is not the correct consistency
please contact us. You will need the clay name and number, the batch num=
=3D
ber
from the box, your purchase receipt (or the name of the distributorship
where it was purchased), you name, daytime phone and an e mail contact if=
=3D
you have it. E mail info to kim@lagunaclay.com or call 1-800-452-4862 an=
=3D
d
listen to the menu choices.
It is our intention to handle the heavy work and be consistent. We supp=
=3D
ly
our customers with pugged clay, high quality and consistent raw materials=
=3D
,
blended and prepared glazes and equipment which helps them devote their t=
=3D
ime
to the pieces they make.
Hope this information helps.
Thanks, Julie Brooks,
Creative Director, Laguna Clay Company
1-800-452-4862 ext 211
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