Rob Hurley on fri 14 feb 97
Can anyone please tell me where I can purchase(anywhere) a majolica brush,
the brush that I have seen is made in France and has the name "Tessimer"? on
the handle and brush tapers to a fine point .
Thanks... Rob H.
BERT
Gail Pasternack & Marty Cugelman on sat 15 feb 97
At 09:01 14/02/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Can anyone please tell me where I can purchase(anywhere) a majolica brush,
>the brush that I have seen is made in France and has the name "Tessimer"? on
>the handle and brush tapers to a fine point .
>
> Thanks... Rob H.
>BERT
>
>I also am interested in finding this brush. I was at a workshop two weeks
ago and tried out a brush similar to the one you described. This brush was
bought in a store 'just for brushes' in Florence, Italy.
I have tried to cut full brushes that I own to the same shape but it doesn't
work as well as this brush.
The problem with liner brushes is that they don't hold enough paint to
complete the line. This Italian made brush holds a huge amount of paint and
doesn't seem to drip. Let me know if you find out where to buy one.
It might be worth a trip to Florence. It could be a good income tax deduction!
Gail Pasternack
Ballantrae, Ontario Canada (near Toronto)
Jacquelyn Lumsden on sun 16 feb 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Can anyone please tell me where I can purchase(anywhere) a majolica brush,
>the brush that I have seen is made in France and has the name "Tessimer"? on
>the handle and brush tapers to a fine point .
>
> Thanks... Rob H.
>BERT
Bert-
This doesn't directly answer your question, but a good Japanese painting
brush comes to an incredible point that enables one to paint ( on paper)
the finest hairs imaginable, or, by using it roughly on its side, the
roughest looking branch. These brushes are springy when wet and very full
at the top to hold a lot of water. The acid test is to do a stroke and
see how well they return to the original shape. We are able to but them in
chinatown here in Canada ( Toronto) and usually cost about $12 Canadian.
When filled with glaze they obviously don't work quite so well, but are
great using any wash or water/oxide mix.
Good luck on finding something appropriate.
Jackie Lumsden
Waterloo. Ont.,
Canada
Ken Nowicki on sun 16 feb 97
In a message dated 97-02-15 EST, Gail wrote:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> At 09:01 14/02/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Can anyone please tell me where I can purchase(anywhere) a majolica brush,
>the brush that I have seen is made in France and has the name "Tessimer"?
on
>the handle and brush tapers to a fine point .
>
> Thanks... Rob H.
>BERT
>
>>I also am interested in finding this brush. I was at a workshop two weeks
>>ago and tried out a brush similar to the one you described. This brush was
>>bought in a store 'just for brushes' in Florence, Italy.
>>I have tried to cut full brushes that I own to the same shape but it
doesn't
>>work as well as this brush.
>>The problem with liner brushes is that they don't hold enough paint to
>>complete the line. This Italian made brush holds a huge amount of paint
and
>>doesn't seem to drip. Let me know if you find out where to buy one.
>>It might be worth a trip to Florence. It could be a good income tax
deduction!
>>Gail Pasternack
I was just in Florence in October! Dang!... Had I even known about these
brushes I would've bought some and brought them back... shucks! I was in
Faenza for 2 days as well and I didn't even think to ask anyone about brushes
or clay tools... duh! Guess I was overwhelmed just by being there... (my
first time abroad) ...Oh well, it'll just give me a reason to go back and
search them out! Ha! ...Like I really need prodding for a reason to return to
beautiful Italy! ...Sheesh! :))))
Ken Nowicki - RakuArtist@aol.com
....still searching for a new home/studio in the San Fernando Valley where
it's overcast and mild today.
Mel Jacobson on mon 22 sep 97
also to add to linda arbuckles `shout `idea.......use human hair
`conditioner` at the end of cleaning...........works.
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Corinne P. Null on tue 9 dec 97
I asked some hunting friends for a deer tail. Well, they'd just gotten rid
of them last week, but they had just hit a moose on the road and gave me
some moose tail fur. Can I make a brush with that?
Poor critters.
Corinne, a gatherer.
Corinne Null
Bedford, NH
cnull@MCIONE.com
CalBab@aol.com on mon 16 feb 98
I am looking for a wholesale source for Chinese Bamboo and Hake brushes. Any
information would be greatly appreciated.
Bill
Sharon Clayton on mon 16 feb 98
Try Pottery Supply House at http://www.pshcanada.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: CalBab@aol.com [SMTP:CalBab@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 16, 1998 10:37 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: brushes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I am looking for a wholesale source for Chinese Bamboo and Hake brushes. Any
information would be greatly appreciated.
Bill
Sharon Clayton on tue 17 feb 98
OOOPS... So sorry. it should be http://www.pshcanada.com. Just tried
reaching the site myself and it seems it's not up and running or something.
Maybe someone else will have better luck. There phone number : =
1-800-465-8544.
(Oakville, Ontario. Canada)
-----Original Message-----
From: Sharon Clayton =5BSMTP:sharonc=40mail.on.rogers.wave.ca=5D
Sent: Monday, February 16, 1998 11:15 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: brushes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Try Pottery Supply House at http://www.pshcanada.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: CalBab=40aol.com =5BSMTP:CalBab=40aol.com=5D
Sent: Monday, February 16, 1998 10:37 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: brushes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I am looking for a wholesale source for Chinese Bamboo and Hake brushes. =
Any
information would be greatly appreciated.
Bill
jims@connect.ab.ca on thu 19 feb 98
Greetings,
Receiving my CLAYART mail a day later (Digested) than most of you folks
so not sure if this has been cleared up yet.
>OOOPS... So sorry. it should be http://www.pshcanada.com. Just tried
>reaching the site myself and it seems it's not up and running or something.
>Maybe someone else will have better luck. There phone number : =
>1-800-465-8544.
>(Oakville, Ontario. Canada)
Sharon, you had the right address, just needed to use upper case PHS. *8)
The URL for Pottery Supply House is... http://www.PSHcanada.com/
Hope this helps.
Cheers... Jim
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
jims@connect.ab.ca Edmonton/Alberta/Canada
http://www.connect.ab.ca/~jims
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
mel jacobson on wed 11 jul 01
the reason `duct` tape was invented, was so
potters could grab any kind of hair, straw, sticks,
stuff, wrap a gob of duct tape around the ends...
whamo
brush.
what is painting?
you take a stick with hair on the end.
take pretty stuff and smear it around
on paper, canvas, wood, pots til you are
pleased.
take things to the simple end...don't make
it complex.
all gets easy.
mel
vinegar? in clay?
take vinegar, ammonia mix 50/50.
same as pee.
no icky stuff.
fertilizer for clay.
(speeds the aging, the ancients knew this.)
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
BlissPots on sun 20 jan 02
Hi Karen, I think I know this group. I know they were at nceca denver. =
great brushes. so although i don't know how to contact directly, at =
vegas they were in the booth with Turner ceramics sooooo i've seen some =
cm ads for turner if you can't turn up turner's e-mail or phone betcha i =
could locate.=20
bliss in Alaska
btw warm, no snow for awhile, rain=20
mel jacobson on thu 18 apr 02
take one golden retriever, cut off a bunch
of golden hair/fur.
make a gob.
place it on a stick.
wrap with electricians tape...hard.
dip in stuff.
smear around.
brush.
or, quickly cut off the main (mane) of a horse, or a tail,
when they are not looking...be fast.
tape it to a stick.
smear around stuff til it looks good.
brush.
remember, horses are bigger than people, and they
can step on you.
that is all you need to know about painting.
take a stick with hair on the end.
smear pretty colors around until you are happy.
smear the colors on cloth or other paper or stuff.
painting.
having done hundreds of paintings...i have never used
a sable brush. i buy those 25 cent chinese throw away
brushes. chop them off with a razor. they get really
good for painting after about three years.
someone broke into my locker at the university and stole
about 50 of those cheapo brushes from me. i was pissed.
i had to start all over again. took me a year to get them good
again. something about tools, they fit.
when you lose one....ick.
makes you all pissy.
mel
hair from the head of a long haired women is just fine.
have to be really fast to get it without them knowing.
don't use dannon hair.
too much like curly and all red and funny.
can't paint with brushes like that.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
vince pitelka on thu 18 apr 02
> Are there medium priced ones? The cheapos are junk,
> but I can't bring myself to spend $60-$100 on a brush
> when they get such a beating with the glazes and
> oxides. Any ideas?
Kathy -
Jeese, where you been shopping for brushes? The fine handmade ones made by
Keith Lebanzon are in that price range (and higher!), but there is a wealth
of East Asian brushes in the medium price range, and they are beauties.
Many ceramic suppliers now carry some of these brushes.
A lot of this depends on what you are using brushes for. If you just want
to lay down a flowing swath of glaze, then there is no reason to use an
expensive brush. An inexpensive hake brush will work fine. But if you are
doing decorative brushwork, where the quality of the bristles help to
determine the quality of markmaking, then it is worth it to pay more for the
good East Asian brushes.
And don't write off every inexpensive brush as "cheap." There are lots of
very reasonably priced brushes out there that do a very good job. If you
live near a city with a Chinatown, go into the stores which cater primarily
to the Chinese, and ask to see their brush selection. You will find some
bargains.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Steve Dalton on fri 19 apr 02
My wife wants a hair cut. I think I'll offer to cut it for her so I can get
that hair for some brushes, but she may not like the idea of being bald! My
daughters are asking for hair cuts as well. The possibilities! I could
easily make 50 - 60 brushes with all of that hair!
--
Steve Dalton
Clear Creek Pottery
Snohomish, Wa
sdpotter@gte.net
Stephani Stephenson on fri 19 apr 02
IF you don't have time to learn the craft of brush making ,don't feel
like shearing the family dog, but instead just want to buy some
brushes......
For watercolor brushes try some of the synthetic blends or synthetic
brushes. Most brand names have a line of them ... Princeton, Winton are
the names of a few. I am not talking nylon, but what they often call
'synthetic sable'. These brushes perform quite well, hold a lot of
pigment and still hold a good point if need be , and are FAR less
expensive than the sable counterparts. They hold up well with pigments
for ceramics, and I find that , for the price they are much more durable
than some of the lower quality oriental brushes.
They have more snap to them (I.e. the wet brush doesn't just lay
there like a mop of heavy wet hair). Synthetic brush technology, and
synthetic/natural blends have really come a long way in the last few
decades, and many of them hold up beautifully with oils, all kinds of
paint , as well as ceramic pigments.
For long lines use a brush called a liner, which holds enough
pigment to give you a long ,flowing, even line.
For $2- $10 a piece you can get a range of very durable, lasting, good
quality brushes of different sizes.
Also, you might try shopping at a college bookstore/artstore. Though
stores and policies vary, depending on the college, often times you will
find excellent selection (they provide supplies for college art classes
) . Also they are sometimes not for profit so their mark ups are less
than typical retail stores. Also I find that independently run art
stores will sometimes have a better selection and wider price range than
the chain stores.
Finally, be wary of 'camel hair ' brushes... word was in the industry
that ' camel hair' is not camel hair at all but the equivalent of the
floor sweepings at the brush factory... i.e. the lowest quality brush
made up of whatever is left over . Often these are the very cheapest
brushes, found in kid's kits, etc.
Stephani Stephenson
steph@alchemiestudio.com
Carlsbad CA
claybair on sat 20 apr 02
Karen,
Do you sell your brushes???
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
Karen Sullivan wrote>>
I am off this morning to conduct a brush making workshop.
I start with bamboo...rout out the inside about 1 inch
above the membrane that separates the bamboo sections.
The well created is the space is for the glue and brush hair.
I spend a tremendous amount of time polishing
the bamboo....looking for great sources
of bamboo to work with... My favourite segment
of the bamboo is the part that is just growing
out of the ground. The sections are more closely spaced.
If you find a stand of bamboo...look for the stalks that
have turned brown, and grab and pull. They will pop out
of the ground with little effort.
The root sections are more work...and more interesting.
I use steel wool to polish the sides...
and sandpaper to polish each end....
(o sandpaper on the sides of the bamboo)
I work up to 1500 mesh sandpaper that
I find in auto supply stores.
I use elk mane....look for supplies of fur
at fly fishing supply stores...it's called dubbing.
I have tried lots of fur...
fox is too soft.
moose/deer too hard....hair is a hollow shaft.
sounds like goldie locks here....
experiment with what is available.
goat is great for small brushes.
I leave the fur on the hide...cut a piece about
1 1/2 inch long and 1/2 inch wide....
roll the fur into a tube shape...with the hair
forming a teardrop shape.
This is the function of brushmaking that will
determine the quality of the brush....spend time
with the roll of the hair so it does not splay out
in a fan shape.
mix the glue and stuff the hair into the well I
have created in the bamboo.
I think that brushes each have a distinct vocabulary and
with the long fur my brushes can produce a thin hair line
mark or a wide swath.
I pull the pigment as in sumi...
I can not push pigment as in acrylic painting.
I hold the brush by the tip and let it sway....
I stand and brush work on the floor so I am using
my whole arm not just my wrist....It is a sort of
dance.
Whenever I do a workshop or a demo for my classes
my students get very intense and busy....
It's a popular project. I would like to extend the
thought into making tools.
bamboo karen
(my nickname begins to make more sense.)
if someone would send me a site to post my images
of my brushes I would. I love the idea of Lee Love
using a site to provide visual information.
also look at Keith Lebenzen's site
he is http://www.brushman.net for amazingly beautiful brushes
Karen Sullivan on sat 20 apr 02
I am off this morning to conduct a brush making workshop.
I start with bamboo...rout out the inside about 1 inch
above the membrane that separates the bamboo sections.
The well created is the space is for the glue and brush hair.
I spend a tremendous amount of time polishing
the bamboo....looking for great sources
of bamboo to work with... My favourite segment
of the bamboo is the part that is just growing
out of the ground. The sections are more closely spaced.
If you find a stand of bamboo...look for the stalks that
have turned brown, and grab and pull. They will pop out
of the ground with little effort.
The root sections are more work...and more interesting.
I use steel wool to polish the sides...
and sandpaper to polish each end....
(o sandpaper on the sides of the bamboo)
I work up to 1500 mesh sandpaper that
I find in auto supply stores.
I use elk mane....look for supplies of fur
at fly fishing supply stores...it's called dubbing.
I have tried lots of fur...
fox is too soft.
moose/deer too hard....hair is a hollow shaft.
sounds like goldie locks here....
experiment with what is available.
goat is great for small brushes.
I leave the fur on the hide...cut a piece about
1 1/2 inch long and 1/2 inch wide....
roll the fur into a tube shape...with the hair
forming a teardrop shape.
This is the function of brushmaking that will
determine the quality of the brush....spend time
with the roll of the hair so it does not splay out
in a fan shape.
mix the glue and stuff the hair into the well I
have created in the bamboo.
I think that brushes each have a distinct vocabulary and
with the long fur my brushes can produce a thin hair line
mark or a wide swath.
I pull the pigment as in sumi...
I can not push pigment as in acrylic painting.
I hold the brush by the tip and let it sway....
I stand and brush work on the floor so I am using
my whole arm not just my wrist....It is a sort of
dance.
Whenever I do a workshop or a demo for my classes
my students get very intense and busy....
It's a popular project. I would like to extend the
thought into making tools.
bamboo karen
(my nickname begins to make more sense.)
if someone would send me a site to post my images
of my brushes I would. I love the idea of Lee Love
using a site to provide visual information.
also look at Keith Lebenzen's site
he is http://www.brushman.net for amazingly beautiful brushes
Ababi on sat 20 apr 02
I have special brushes in the studio, I forget to use. I made it years
ago for a game for children, I got the idea from a gift that My son
got from our relatives in the USA. Do you remember the tiny dolls of
Ernie and Burt from Sesame street? You take a rounded piece of wood,
drill a wide hole in it and glue ropes. ( you can draw face too) On
each "head" different kind, wool or tying threads ETC it can make very
special and unique strokes
---------- Original Message ----------
>I am off this morning to conduct a brush making workshop.
>I start with bamboo...rout out the inside about 1 inch
>above the membrane that separates the bamboo sections.
>The well created is the space is for the glue and brush hair.
>I spend a tremendous amount of time polishing
>the bamboo....looking for great sources
>of bamboo to work with... My favourite segment
>of the bamboo is the part that is just growing
>out of the ground. The sections are more closely spaced.
>If you find a stand of bamboo...look for the stalks that
>have turned brown, and grab and pull. They will pop out
>of the ground with little effort.
>The root sections are more work...and more interesting.
>I use steel wool to polish the sides...
>and sandpaper to polish each end....
>(o sandpaper on the sides of the bamboo)
>I work up to 1500 mesh sandpaper that
>I find in auto supply stores.
>I use elk mane....look for supplies of fur
>at fly fishing supply stores...it's called dubbing.
>I have tried lots of fur...
>fox is too soft.
>moose/deer too hard....hair is a hollow shaft.
>sounds like goldie locks here....
>experiment with what is available.
>goat is great for small brushes.
>I leave the fur on the hide...cut a piece about
>1 1/2 inch long and 1/2 inch wide....
>roll the fur into a tube shape...with the hair
>forming a teardrop shape.
>This is the function of brushmaking that will
>determine the quality of the brush....spend time
>with the roll of the hair so it does not splay out
>in a fan shape.
>mix the glue and stuff the hair into the well I
>have created in the bamboo.
>I think that brushes each have a distinct vocabulary and
>with the long fur my brushes can produce a thin hair line
>mark or a wide swath.
>I pull the pigment as in sumi...
>I can not push pigment as in acrylic painting.
>I hold the brush by the tip and let it sway....
>I stand and brush work on the floor so I am using
>my whole arm not just my wrist....It is a sort of
>dance.
>Whenever I do a workshop or a demo for my classes
>my students get very intense and busy....
>It's a popular project. I would like to extend the
>thought into making tools.
>bamboo karen
>(my nickname begins to make more sense.)
>if someone would send me a site to post my images
>of my brushes I would. I love the idea of Lee Love
>using a site to provide visual information.
>also look at Keith Lebenzen's site
>he is http://www.brushman.net for amazingly beautiful brushes
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Judith Frederick on sat 20 apr 02
Karen, You can post pictures on MSN for free. For example see:
http://communities.webshots.com/user/watrrlilly
These are my photo albums of some of my work.
Then you can just tell use the user name and album name. They even have
options to send invitation links.
Judy
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
Earl Brunner on sat 20 apr 02
Troll dolls come in different sizes, they make good brushes.
Ababi wrote:
> I have special brushes in the studio, I forget to use. I made it years
> ago for a game for children, I got the idea from a gift that My son
> got from our relatives in the USA. Do you remember the tiny dolls of
> Ernie and Burt from Sesame street? You take a rounded piece of wood,
> drill a wide hole in it and glue ropes. ( you can draw face too) On
> each "head" different kind, wool or tying threads ETC it can make very
> special and unique strokes
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Earl Brunner on wed 22 oct 03
I just got four great handmade brushes that I bought from Bamboo Karen
(Karen Sullivan) on EBAY. They look great, I can't wait to try them out.
Her user name on ebay is 9max.frog
mel jacobson on mon 2 may 05
all brushes are good.
but, every one has its own purpose.
you have to discover what that purpose is.
soft, stiff, rough, long, short, stubby, curvy, firm
flat, round etc. (god, that sounds sexy.)
each has its own job to do.
like bras, one size does not fit all.
or, like jockey shorts...one size does not fit all.
have to find the one that works for you.
it is like saying that squatcrapbrown clay has a
firing range of cone 04-12. i never want to use
that clay. who would know what temp to fire it?
i want a clay that is cone10-11. if i push it beyond
i will test it.
or, if i want a clay for electric...cone 6...not 04 to 6.
clay like underwear...it had better fit the task...perfectly.
far too often folks think that a brush is a brush, or clay is clay.
that is the most ignorant idea in the world. why not say.
`men are men`, or you know women, they are all the same.
concepts like that are total ignorance.
mel
from mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Hank Murrow on sat 4 feb 06
On Feb 4, 2006, at 1:18 PM, Mike Gordon wrote:
> Mark,
> Look in the archives, for "Bamboo Karen" she makes brushes out of
> many kinds of wild animal tail hair. I have on out of Elk that she made
> for me. I also have used squirrel tail and I use salt to cure the end.
> But they have a tendency to get stiff as they age but still make a nice
> mark. Mike Gordon
Dear group;
I am very interested in scoring some good brushes while in Japan. I
favor deer hair brushes that are longish rather than wide. If anyone
'in country' knows good sources, keep us in the loop as we prepare to
go.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Mark Issenberg on sat 4 feb 06
Any of you make brushes ? I had made a couple years ago in Miami when
McKensie Smith showed me how to do them. I took a work shop form him at Arrowmont
and made more brushes.
I have some neighbors that like to hunt deer, they like hunting deer like we
like to make pots,
I have been getting their tails. I have them frozen now. Has any one worked
with fresh tail. What would be the best way for me to cure them? Maybe i could
bring some to the Clayart room. Maybe we can make brushes , we would need
handles,bamboo etc, string and glue
Mark
Lookout Mountain Pottery
Mike Gordon on sat 4 feb 06
Mark,
Look in the archives, for "Bamboo Karen" she makes brushes out of
many kinds of wild animal tail hair. I have on out of Elk that she made
for me. I also have used squirrel tail and I use salt to cure the end.
But they have a tendency to get stiff as they age but still make a nice
mark. Mike Gordon
On Feb 4, 2006, at 4:14 AM, Mark Issenberg wrote:
> Any of you make brushes ? I had made a couple years ago in Miami when
> McKensie Smith showed me how to do them. I took a work shop form him
> at Arrowmont
> and made more brushes.
> I have some neighbors that like to hunt deer, they like hunting deer
> like we
> like to make pots,
>
> I have been getting their tails. I have them frozen now. Has any one
> worked
> with fresh tail. What would be the best way for me to cure them? Maybe
> i could
> bring some to the Clayart room. Maybe we can make brushes , we would
> need
> handles,bamboo etc, string and glue
>
> Mark
> Lookout Mountain Pottery
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Eva Gallagher on sat 4 feb 06
Hi Mark
I got some deer tails from hunters this fall. I skinned the tails - and I
was left with several pieces of various sizes - I then let them dry - a
mistake I think as the skin turned very hard - but I thought I needed to
desiccate the skin to preserve it.
Seems that someone on the list mentioned salting the tails - I guess that
would keep the skin pliable and would help preserve it as well.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Issenberg"
To:
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: Brushes
> Any of you make brushes ? I had made a couple years ago in Miami when
> McKensie Smith showed me how to do them. I took a work shop form him at
> Arrowmont
> and made more brushes.
> I have some neighbors that like to hunt deer, they like hunting deer like
> we
> like to make pots,
>
> I have been getting their tails. I have them frozen now. Has any one
> worked
> with fresh tail. What would be the best way for me to cure them? Maybe i
> could
> bring some to the Clayart room. Maybe we can make brushes , we would need
> handles,bamboo etc, string and glue
>
> Mark
> Lookout Mountain Pottery
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Gary Navarre on sun 5 feb 06
Hay Crew,
I might have mentioned fleshing out and salting some deer skins in my cabin
down below (the Mackinaw Bridge that is). At the time I was into tying
fishing flys and had more skins than I knew to do with. Got real lazy and
left them rolled with salt for a long time. Ended up pitching them when I
moved. They never smelled.
A guy came into work looking for pails to tan skins and he used Borax and
rock salt soaking. I guess that keeps the fur on. To make them plyable work
the skin over that wooden thingamajig tanners use. You can make large
brushes from the tail, medium from the belly, and short from the backs. I
imagine one could use a flytying fur stacker to some advantage. Peace out!
G in da U.P.
Lori Leary on sun 5 feb 06
Just a note to anyone that may be interested in making brushes and are
looking for materials, try Moscow Hide:
http://www.hideandfur.com
Go to the miscellaneous section, they have deer tail and moose mane.
I've used both.
You can also get deer tail from hunting and fishing stores in the lure
making section. The only thing is they are often dyed outrageous
colors...hmm..kind of like our NCECA boas.
Lori L.
Elizabeth Priddy on sun 5 feb 06
If you are going to Japan, or China for that matter,
why on earth buy deertail brushes? Go for high
quality calligraphy, writing or painting brushes.
They are the best brushes for painting and making
true marks. They will make any mark you require
once you get to know them. And they will be a
ready commodity there instead of a rare and very
expensive commodity here.
Many of the tourist quality sets that will be available
will be garbage, you may not even be able to open them
from the glue in the sizing, as they are made for display.
Go to a quality paper and writing shop and buy the best
you can afford and save the roadkill experiments for home.
Deertail brushes are very "romantic" and "homestead"
but they are not brushes one would use to make
highly distinctive and high quality marks.
It is like using Rhodes 32 at whatever temperature
you happen to fir to versus getting personally tweaked
glazes made for your clay.
People truly express themselves with a quality brush
they have learned to use over quality time spent using it.
As a brush painter, I would only use a deertail brush for
mop-work. And I have a much better brush for that already.
I realize I have opened myself for criticism of my brush work
by saying this, but that's ok. I know the difference quality
brushes make on making marks.
All that being said, a good brush painter can make beautiful
work with any rag found on the street. But an inexperienced
painter will make indistinguished marks with any brush. It is
like learning guitar. If you have a crappy, can't hold a tune,
beater guitar to learn on, you can hardly tell when you have
done it right. To seriously learn guitar, you have to get at
least a medium to good quality instrument so that the mistakes
you hear are your own and not the medium.
So give yourself a chance and get good brushes.
This is not a criticism of having quality singular-mark-making
brushes at home, but rather the act of buying them where
quality brushes are a dime a dozen, sometimes literally.
Elizabeth
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
---------------------------------
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Vicki Hardin on sun 5 feb 06
If I have an untanned tail that I am going to use for a brush, I nail it to
a tree and leave it for about a month. I do not use chemicals for tanning
tanning as I am not going to use the hide, but only the hair for the brush.
Here is a link to some of the brushes I have made.
http://vickihardin.com/hand_made_brush.htm Some of these brushes on the
site do include the entire tail. You can get tanned tails very reasonably at
Moscow Hide and Fur. Here's the URL http://www.hideandfur.com/
Regards,
Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
Paul Herman on mon 6 feb 06
Hello Claudia,
On Feb 6, 2006, at 2:49 PM, Claudia MacPhee wrote:
> Making brushes sounds like good, clean fun!
Brushes are fun! The way I did it is:
Get some hair of the dog. I got mine from my good buddy Rufus, who is
part Chow. I think bristly Husky type dogs are good. Mr. Hamada used
the neck hairs of the Akita dog, which has that Hushy air, as do
Chows. I seem to remember you've had some association with sled dogs
up there, eh?
As you snip a small bunch from your friend, hold and tie it into a
bundle with a thread. Later you can glue the base (I use epoxy) and
wrap more thread around it. After the epoxy hardens, trim the base up
and glue it into a nice stick. I imagine there's no bamboo around there.
> Think I will do a project with my school kids. They go on a Bison
> hunt starting Feb.20th. Maybe we will try to make brushes from the
> fur and will report back on our progress.
> Claudia MacPhee, in Tagish, Yukon
Sounds like a good project for the kids, Bison hair brushes, yes indeed.
Best wishes,.
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
http://greatbasinpottery.com
Lee Love on tue 7 feb 06
On 2006/02/07 13:11:55, potterpaul@frontiernet.net wrote:
> Get some hair of the dog. I got mine from my good buddy Rufus, who is
> part Chow. I think bristly Husky type dogs are good. Mr. Hamada used
> the neck hairs of the Akita dog, which has that Hushy air, as do
> Chows.
Chows and Akitas are closely related. They are more ancient breeds
than huskies, from the recent genetic research.
Calligraphy brushes are softer and don't load with glaze as
well. Now is the time of year to collect your dog hair when they
are in full winter coat. It is also the time to cut bamboo, when the
sap is in the ground.
--
Lee Love
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
--Leonardo da Vinci
Mark Heimann on tue 7 feb 06
My partner Becki and I brought two live long-haired Alpine goats to a
brush-making workshop that Janet Buskirk taught at Mt. Hood Community
College (Gresham, OR). The students chose and cut their own swatches of goat
hair and made some radical brushes with an amazing variety of handle
materials that Janet (the tough Skutt girl) supplied. It was really fun.
Even the goats enjoyed it!
Mark Heimann
Estacada
www.piratepots.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Claudia MacPhee
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 2:50 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Brushes
Just about any material for brushmaking is avaliable from a good
fly-tying supplier. A google search will bring up more than you ever knew
existed. You can buy patches, typically about 4X4" squares of any animal
that is legal to kill. There is body hair, tails, every feather you can
imagine. Not that pricey either.
Making brushes sounds like good, clean fun! Think I will do a project
with my school kids. They go on a Bison hunt starting Feb.20th. Maybe we
will try to make brushes from the fur and will report back on our progress.
Claudia MacPhee, in Tagish, Yukon where I just planted tomato, pepper and
eggplant seeds, watching the snow fall.....haha....spring will come!
____________________________________________________________________________
__ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org You may look at the archives
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http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who
may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
steve graber on tue 7 feb 06
the old timers in the west used yukka tree brach-leaves for brushes. i've collected a few, but have yet to try them as a brush. they are truly strong yet supple. i found one in particular while on a hike in the woods. at first, in a stream, i truly thought it was the scalp of a dead body. blond. while i knew at that time of what the old timers did - chew on the leaves to release the fibers - i had no idea there was THAT much brush available in a yukka leaf! some 5 inches of brush with an included handle because of the rest of the yukka leaf.
see ya
steve
Lee Love wrote:
On 2006/02/07 13:11:55, potterpaul@frontiernet.net wrote:
> Get some hair of the dog. I got mine from my good buddy Rufus, who is
> part Chow. I think bristly Husky type dogs are good. Mr. Hamada used
> the neck hairs of the Akita dog, which has that Hushy air, as do
> Chows.
Chows and Akitas are closely related. They are more ancient breeds
than huskies, from the recent genetic research.
Calligraphy brushes are softer and don't load with glaze as
well. Now is the time of year to collect your dog hair when they
are in full winter coat. It is also the time to cut bamboo, when the
sap is in the ground.
--
Lee Love
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
--Leonardo da Vinci
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
---------------------------------
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Elizabeth Priddy on tue 7 feb 06
Actually, calligraphy brushes are made with a spring
core and are much harder than glaze mops.
Soft absorbant sheep and slightly rougher goat hair are
the preferred hair for glaze brushes. For calligraphy,
needing smooth release of the ink or pigment, and
needing the brush to spring back to straight as you
finish one mark and continue with another, uses a lot of
horse in the core and other mink or weasel hair on
the exterior to pull into a fine point when properly loaded.
hake brushes are exceedingly soft and are used for
washes, mops, and fading backgrounds and glue.
Typically soft sheep, goat or yak. Wolf (or dog) hair is
a rather flexible hair that can be found in many different
types of brush. My dog and my hair brush is good for a
particular mark loosely translated as a "drooping water drop".
It is a mark that is laid on the page rather than stroked.
It is used to fill areas with soft diffuse color, like the base color
for koi fish or water ponds.
[If you look to fine chinese landscape painting, you will most
often see them on cheap scrolls from thrift stores in USA, you
will see what can essentially be thought of as a sampler
of strokes. Each mark is the precise application of a
loaded brush, and the whole piece will show the range of the
painter. When you consider the artistry of a piece that is
usually disregared by a western eye as a print, and realize
that a lot of these pieces you run across is work done by
hand by one artist, it changes your perception of the work.
An artist may use a dozen different brushes and even more
specific techniques to create one image. Beginning with
dying or coloring the paper to establish the right color as
well as to change the absorbancy and texture of the sheet.
That being said, master works are cohesive and beautiful
allowing the maker to break free from the rigid nature of
the necessary elements of a landscape painting, and to
use whatever mark making device they choose, as in the
use of a finger tip to place plum blossoms.
Here is a site that shows some contemporarry pieces:
http://www.the-gallery-of-china.com/chinese-landscape-painting.html
In China, at the national museum, I spent hours with scrolls
that boggle the eye and the mind with the quality and
composition and sheer craftsmanship required to paint
fields of 6 feet by 2 feet with indelible pine sap glue infused
ink and color without one unintended mark. (Or at least not
one that you can find.) I have been working on a series of
paintings that I think of as American landscape paintings,
called "ILUV2DRV". They are fun, but a real departure.]
Calligraphy brushes are more like boar bristles surrounded
by soft silky hair that will release the ink smoothly.
Hair that is coarse or open in texture and absorbant are
good for glazes. The arrangement of the hair and the
concentric layering determine the characteristic of the
mark the brush naturally makes. With an appropriate
brush, you are halfway there. The other half is all you.
E
Lee Love wrote:
Calligraphy brushes are softer and don't load with glaze as
well.
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
Elizabeth Priddy on tue 7 feb 06
http://www.kougei.or.jp/english/crafts/1107/d1107-4.html
This shows how to do it with composite hair rather than skins.
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
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mel jacobson on tue 31 oct 06
that pix was not from me...either linda or po.
that pix just sorta appeared. had to be, as i was in the pix.
my pix was of the table of brushes.
and. prices were very low.
that was really a wholesale booth.
po purchased a few hundred. it was a new
city/local for po.
the clerks do not read or write.
po had to make out a mailing slip to attach to
the package and make the order out himself on
some scrap paper.
i think that big brush i am holding was under 5 bucks.
the handful of brushes i got for kurt was a buck.
but, i did not need brushes..and it would have been
a bother to haul them across china.
so.
if i need brushes, i would just order them from po...from
clayart china website.
his prices are very good. and, a more honest fellow
you could not find.
mel
a friend sent me an entire horses tail.
i have made a couple of big brushes...not used very much.
i never use good brushes on bisque or in wax.
they just fall apart...and wear down.
i use them, and throw them away....so...not so critical.
old beaten brushes are the best for painting...i love them.
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
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