Ellen Baker on wed 5 mar 97
Castable refractory materials are manufactured by companies like Thermal
Ceramics or A.P. Green, that also make fire brick. You can save major
money (like almost half) by purchasing all refractory materials (fiber,
brick, castable) DIRECTLY from an industrial supply. (If you don't have
much industry in your town, try a masonry supply, building supply, or a
"helpful" hardware store.) Thermal Ceramics' toll-free number is
1-800-KAOWOOL; A.P. Green's home office is still in Mexico, Missouri, I
think -- you'll have to call 800-555-1212 to get a toll-free number if
they have one. Perhaps you can find Thomas Register on-line and check out
refractory manufacturers there.
Insulating castables can be poured, trowelled or sprayed -- the
manufacturers are happy to provide lots and lots of details. Whatever your
design, you should be sure to plan for expansion. Also, don't "bury" or
"sandwich" steel between layers of insulation of any kind -- don't try to
use it like rebar, it won't last and could really cause your structure to
self-destruct.
'Can't have enough insulation, in my opinion. Buy lots and load-up.
Ellen Baker, Glacier, WA
orion@telcomplus.com
sam wainford on thu 13 mar 97
Bill,
I tried sending this a few days ago, but it must've floated off into
space...
There are some excellent photos of cast kiln in process in Jack
Troy's book "Salt-glazed Ceramics". I think it's out of print but any
good Ceramic's library should have it. Also, "Studio Potter" did a
collection of articles on castables for salt which is basically where I
gleaned my castable recipe. Richard Leach used something like it at
Albion College in Michigan. As far as mixing, dry as possible. Scoop
up a handful and toss it like a ball into the air a few times. It
should form a ball. If it breaks apart, it's too dry; if it flattens in
your hand it's too wet. It should be rammed(in the full sense of the
word) with 4x4 or fist or anything you can find to force out air gaps as
you layer your way up, ramming between the inner and outer arch form
with batches of mix. Yes, build an arch form. Shim it up inner form on
bricks or something, then after casting knock them out to remove form.
Jack Troy's book shows tar paper over the inner arch form which worked
great for me. You could design construction joints into the wall by
putting a separative like plastic in between two layers(batches of mix)
but the kiln will probably crack naturally and form its own construction
joint if you don't put one there. Jane said she uses an eight inch wall
thickness. Mine is only 5 inches, but I will use a layer of kaowool
blanket over it for extra insulation, then some sort of shell to protect
it from weather--sheet metal or stucco of some kind. Hope this helps.
Sam
Stephen Sell on thu 8 may 97
Dear Clayart,
I am looking for some input on formulas for homemade castable refractories.
I am building a 23 cubic foot cantenary arch, ^10 propane fueled kiln for
reduction and possible soda/salt firing. I plan on coating with the ITC100
kiln coat. I have a castable reciepe and plans for a cantenary arch kiln
from Ruthanne Tudball's book on Soda Glazing but am looking for this groups
assistance in filling in the gaps. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
Marcia Selsor on fri 9 may 97
Dear Stephen,
Ruthanne Tudball's book is a good source for castable formulas. Also
consider CM, Jack Troy's Saltglazed Ceramics, and the Studio Potter
book. All have castable formulas. I used one and coated inside with ITC.
Also coated kiln furniture. Stilts are unscaved!
2 parts Fire Clay
2 parts Grog
2 parts sawdust of various sizes
1/2 alumina hydrate
1/2 portland cement
Taking ITC to Spain for Soda Vapor workshops in Agost and Sevilla (Della
Robbia School of Ceramics)
Good Luck
Marcia in Montana
Stephen Sell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Clayart,
> I am looking for some input on formulas for homemade castable refractories.
> I am building a 23 cubic foot cantenary arch, ^10 propane fueled kiln for
> reduction and possible soda/salt firing. I plan on coating with the ITC100
> kiln coat. I have a castable reciepe and plans for a cantenary arch kiln
> from Ruthanne Tudball's book on Soda Glazing but am looking for this groups
> assistance in filling in the gaps. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
--
Marcia Selsor
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/
mjbmls@imt.net
Bill Aycock on fri 9 may 97
Stephen- Jim Shepard and his class at Fresno just did a project, and has it
all documented at:
www.mpgallery.com/kiln/kiln.htm
This is also a Catenary, cast, and they have covered it in pictures, step by
step, and have some of the material data as well.
I enjoyed the site, and the presentation.
Bill- resting after a couple of hours of pulling Blackberry canes that were
blocking a part of the view of Persimmon Hill.
At 08:55 AM 5/8/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Clayart,
> I am looking for some input on formulas for homemade castable refractories.
>I am building a 23 cubic foot cantenary arch, ^10 propane fueled kiln for
>reduction and possible soda/salt firing. I plan on coating with the ITC100
>kiln coat. I have a castable reciepe and plans for a cantenary arch kiln
>from Ruthanne Tudball's book on Soda Glazing but am looking for this groups
>assistance in filling in the gaps. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
>
>
Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill --- Woodville, Alabama, USA
--- (in the N.E. corner of the State)
also-- W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr baycock@hiwaay.net
D. Kim Lindaberry on sat 10 may 97
Stephen Sell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Clayart,
> I am looking for some input on formulas for homemade castable refractories.
Steven,
Contemporary Ceramics formulas by John Conrad has formulas for castable
refractories, firebrick, softbrick and even formulas for making your own
crucibles.
cheers,
Kim
--
==================================
D. Kim Lindaberry
Johnson County Community College
12345 College Blvd., ATB 115
Overland Park, Kansas 66210
USA
Visit my website at: http://www.johnco.cc.ks.us/~klinda
mailto:klinda@johnco.cc.ks.us
==================================
Geoffrey Barst on sun 28 nov 04
A few years ago I was faced with buying new refractory tiles to line my
pool heater's firebox. The replacements were crumbly, fragile and absorbed
water and as such were unlikely to last longer than the originals. I cast
replacement tiles about 20 x 20 in and 21/2 in thick from a castable
concrete like material from National Refractories with a temperature range
of over 2800 F. The tiles were too heavy so I went back to the drawing
board & made frames from the material & set in some rebar as a support for
Pumpable GS from Fiberfrax, a moldable lightweight semi liquid ceramic
fiber which sets up hard. The results were great & have not deteriorated
in 5 years. I have also used the GS to repair a Raku kiln. The downside is
that these materials are expensive & you'd need a lot to cast a complete
kiln. Search the web for these names & you'll find them easily.
Geoff Barst
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