Akitajin \"Lee Love\" on sat 17 may 97
Could someone point me to the issue of Ceramics Monthly that has the
article on castable reftactories used in kiln building? Someone here
on the list wrote it.
Thanks,
Lee
====================================================
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Lewis on tue 5 may 98
------------------
This summer I plan to build a version of the Phoenix wood kiln, and I am
considering casting the entire firebox arch. (The firebox is beneath the
kiln chamber in this 40 cubic foot design.) I may also cast the chamber
arch. I am considering casting because I don't have the bricks needed for
these arches, but I do have two castable refractory mixtures. The first is
a dense castable given to me by the local steelworks, and is rated for a
much higher temperature than most potters fire to. It has a very high
alumina content, and I would use this for the firebox arch. The second
would be a typical homemade castable mix, as I already have the ingredients
needed (sawdust, vermiculite, fire clay, grog, cement, alumina). I have
never worked with castable refractory, however, so any thoughts that people
may have about this would be welcome. I am wondering if expansion joints
and internal reinforcement with steel are necessary, and how the strength
of a cast arch compares with other types of arches. I=B9ll be coating the
firebox and kiln chamber with ITC 100.
Many thanks.
Colin Lewis
Soderfors, Sweden
mc.lewis=40swipnet.se
Leslie Norton on wed 6 may 98
I have been thinking about casting an arch too... what is the formula you
are using for the "homemade" version?
-----Original Message-----
From: Lewis [mailto:mc.lewis@swipnet.se]
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 5:14 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: castable refractory
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
This summer I plan to build a version of the Phoenix wood kiln, and I am
considering casting the entire firebox arch. (The firebox is beneath the
kiln chamber in this 40 cubic foot design.) I may also cast the chamber
arch. I am considering casting because I don't have the bricks needed for
these arches, but I do have two castable refractory mixtures. The first is
a dense castable given to me by the local steelworks, and is rated for a
much higher temperature than most potters fire to. It has a very high
alumina content, and I would use this for the firebox arch. The second
would be a typical homemade castable mix, as I already have the ingredients
needed (sawdust, vermiculite, fire clay, grog, cement, alumina). I have
never worked with castable refractory, however, so any thoughts that people
may have about this would be welcome. I am wondering if expansion joints
and internal reinforcement with steel are necessary, and how the strength
of a cast arch compares with other types of arches. I9ll be coating the
firebox and kiln chamber with ITC 100.
Many thanks.
Colin Lewis
Soderfors, Sweden
mc.lewis@swipnet.se
LOWELL BAKER on wed 6 may 98
I would suggest the dense castable for the fire box and the roof
arch. Absolutely no internal steel structure. You can use the
castable with vermiculite and sawdust to insulate.
I would not recommend an insulating castable (vermiculite and
sawdust) for the arch if you are going over cone 6-8. You might case
a thin arch (3-4 inches) and then cast a second lighter arch of about
5 inches for the kiln roof.
W. Lowell Baker
The University of Alabama
paul wilmoth on thu 7 may 98
Colin,
Cast the arch and expect it to crack, not fall but crack. If that doesn't
bother you then go ahead. Your first firing will also be a real steam
bath and probably slower than the rest. I have made a few and do not
really care for them - I prefer bricks.
good luck - Paul
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Bill Amsterlaw on sat 9 may 98
Hi Clayart:
I wonder if anyone with experience building castable refractory kilns has
general suggestions about making expansion seams in such kilns. Is there a
good way to make seams in a cast arch?
- Bill Amsterlaw (wamster@slic.com)
Plattsburgh, NY
paul wilmoth wrote:
<<
Cast the arch and expect it to crack, not fall but crack. If that doesn't
bother you then go ahead.
>>
LOWELL BAKER on mon 11 may 98
I have cast breaks in cast arches. I make the break in a stair step
form with the lower portion of the set to the inside of the kiln. I
have never cast a sprung arch type form , only cylinderical kilns
with flat tops and cantenary arches..
W. Lowell Baker
The University of Alabama
Wesley R. Handrow on wed 13 may 98
If you are making a catenary arch about 2/3's of the way up the arch
wait for the castable to start to set. Then you press a piece of wood
or something straight of about 1/4 the thickness of the wall of the arch
in the middle enough to form a groove. After the castable has setup
fully complete the casting of the arch. The arch will have what amounts
a mortise and tenon joint at a point in the arch that if left to itself
is about where a crack would form after a number of firings.
John Britt on thu 9 jul 98
I found this on clayart some time ago
Subject: Re: Castable mix
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dick Leach from Albion College in Michigan developed
a number of castable mixtures that worked very well-
he had some that lasted for 20 years or so. A recipie
that he used and called "excellent" was as follows:
C/10 firing range(salt too) castable
PARTS MATERIAL
2.5 crushed corn cobs
2.0 clay
2.5 grog
0.5 alumina
1.0 cement(Portland)
Mix to "snowball" consistency; ram it up. 4" thick walls.
Any questions:
Todd Turek
Juneau, AK
jftrt@acad1.alaska.edu
--
Thanks,
John Britt claydude@unicomp.net
Dys-Functional Pottery
Dallas, Texas
http://www.dysfunctionalpottery.com/claydude
Jeffrey J. Taylor on fri 10 jul 98
What are the structural limits of this mixture, large arch etc? corn cobs
substitutable with perlite or some other such "filler"?
Jeffrey Taylor
Duval, Saskatchewan
Canada
John Britt wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I found this on clayart some time ago
>
> Subject: Re: Castable mix
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dick Leach from Albion College in Michigan developed
> a number of castable mixtures that worked very well-
> he had some that lasted for 20 years or so. A recipie
> that he used and called "excellent" was as follows:
>
> C/10 firing range(salt too) castable
> PARTS MATERIAL
> 2.5 crushed corn cobs
> 2.0 clay
> 2.5 grog
> 0.5 alumina
> 1.0 cement(Portland)
>
> Mix to "snowball" consistency; ram it up. 4" thick walls.
>
> Any questions:
> Todd Turek
> Juneau, AK
> jftrt@acad1.alaska.edu
>
> --
> Thanks,
>
> John Britt claydude@unicomp.net
> Dys-Functional Pottery
> Dallas, Texas
> http://www.dysfunctionalpottery.com/claydude
candy murguia on wed 22 feb 06
I have searched through the archives for advice on castable refractory and
its suitabilty for a catenary arch kiln. I have a basic recipe
Sawdust 1.5
Vermiculite 1.0
Grog 2.0
Fire Clay 2.0
Portland Cement 1.0
Alumina 0.5
But I have found some sources who swear by portland cement, others who curse
it. And some who say thay have cast their whole kiln, and others who say its
not suitable for arches. Has anyone out their used a castable refratory to
build a kiln, and with what results?
Candy
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Andy Misner on thu 23 feb 06
Hi Candy and the rest:
I'm a person who deals with the castible refractory everyday and I can maybe=
Help out a bit. There are plenty of homemade recipies for it but in all
reality its cheaper and easier over the long haul to buy it premade. That
way you know the quality and consistancy will be the same with each batch.
Also all you have to do add water. less messing around.
One rule of thumb that I've learned, is you do not want to go any thinner
than 2" otherwise the finished casting will not have the strength and
durability that you want.
Andy
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:12:47 -0800, candy murguia
wrote:
>I have searched through the archives for advice on castable refractory and
>its suitabilty for a catenary arch kiln. I have a basic recipe
>
>Sawdust 1.5
>
>Vermiculite 1.0
>
>Grog 2.0
>
>Fire Clay 2.0
>
>Portland Cement 1.0
>
>Alumina 0.5
>
>But I have found some sources who swear by portland cement, others who curs=
e
>it. And some who say thay have cast their whole kiln, and others who say it=
s
>not suitable for arches. Has anyone out their used a castable refratory to
>build a kiln, and with what results?
>
>Candy
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Don=92t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>___________________________________________________________________________=
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.=
com.
candy murguia on thu 23 feb 06
Is their a particular brand that you recommend?
Candy
>From: Andy Misner
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: castable refractory
>Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 12:40:13 -0500
>
>Hi Candy and the rest:
>
>I'm a person who deals with the castible refractory everyday and I can
>maybe
>Help out a bit. There are plenty of homemade recipies for it but in all
>reality its cheaper and easier over the long haul to buy it premade. That
>way you know the quality and consistancy will be the same with each batch.
>Also all you have to do add water. less messing around.
>
>One rule of thumb that I've learned, is you do not want to go any thinner
>than 2" otherwise the finished casting will not have the strength and
>durability that you want.
>
>Andy
>
>On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:12:47 -0800, candy murguia
>wrote:
>
> >I have searched through the archives for advice on castable refractory
>and
> >its suitabilty for a catenary arch kiln. I have a basic recipe
> >
> >Sawdust 1.5
> >
> >Vermiculite 1.0
> >
> >Grog 2.0
> >
> >Fire Clay 2.0
> >
> >Portland Cement 1.0
> >
> >Alumina 0.5
> >
> >But I have found some sources who swear by portland cement, others who
>curse
> >it. And some who say thay have cast their whole kiln, and others who say
>its
> >not suitable for arches. Has anyone out their used a castable refratory
>to
> >build a kiln, and with what results?
> >
> >Candy
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> >http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
> >
> >______________________________________________________________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Frank Colson on thu 23 feb 06
Candy- A kiln castable material I used often during my Cast Kiln Workshops,
was Carbonrundum's LDS Moldable. It had almost no shrinkage and very usable
at high temps. Made of ceramic fiber and binders, LDS is packaged in wet
premixed units,ready for application. Its density is 40 lbs per square foot,
which gives it good tensile strength.
Frank Colson
www.R2D2u.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "candy murguia"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: castable refractory
> I have searched through the archives for advice on castable refractory and
> its suitabilty for a catenary arch kiln. I have a basic recipe
>
> Sawdust 1.5
>
> Vermiculite 1.0
>
> Grog 2.0
>
> Fire Clay 2.0
>
> Portland Cement 1.0
>
> Alumina 0.5
>
> But I have found some sources who swear by portland cement, others who
curse
> it. And some who say thay have cast their whole kiln, and others who say
its
> not suitable for arches. Has anyone out their used a castable refratory to
> build a kiln, and with what results?
>
> Candy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ivor and Olive Lewis on fri 24 feb 06
Dear Candy Murguia,=20
On the face of it there is nothing wrong with the recipe you give, =
though I presume the values given are for uniform volumes, like "Buckets =
Full" and not in Pounds or Kilograms.
Understanding the recipe is important. Sawdust is a filler that burns =
away leaving voids. This assists with insulation. Vermiculite has an =
open structure which gives insulation as well as bulk. Grog gives dense =
bulk but no insulation. But it should give heat resistance and hot =
strength. Alumina helps to raise the service temperature of the kiln.
This brings us to the Portland Cement. This is a complex compound which =
reacts with water to form an adhesive. It is made from Chalk and Clay, =
in simple terms Calcium oxide, Silica and Alumina. But because these raw =
ingredients have been heated to well over 1000 deg C they react to form =
new chemical that are partly soluble in water and can set up cold to =
make you mixture hard when it is dry. Firing completes chemical =
reactions and you are left with a durable, heat resistant, well =
insulated kiln wall. Given the ratio of one part in eight by volume it =
works well and is a lower priced option in comparison to Black =
Lightening Aluminous Cement or ready made alternatives.
Yes, I have cast an arched kiln roof and it works. And I have used =
Portland style cement to cast the walls of a salt glaze kiln. Perhaps =
you should make up some test samples and get them fired to your intended =
service temperature or cone rating or slightly higher to give you a =
margin for error.
Wishing you success with this project.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Linda White on wed 29 aug 07
I've got an Olsen fast fire kiln almost done. It will be wood fired
because that is the most logical fuel given where I live (in a 10
acre wood). I built the fireboxes out of hard brick, and put a
catenary arch on top made of IFB. I plan to paint the inside with ICT
and I don't plan to fire it over ^6. I still need to put an
insulating layer on the outside of the arch, which will be:
fire clay 2
sawdust 1.5
vermiculite 1
grog or sand 2
portland 1
alumina .5
I won't be able to cover the whole kiln in one session, so I'm
wondering if there is anything I should do to ensure a good bond
between the stuff that I put on yesterday or the day before and the
new stuff I'm putting on today.
I am hoping to get some good advice because the next questions from
me will probably be about wood firing, since I have never been
involved in one before. Yes, I'm one of those people who just start
doing things and figure out how it ought to be done later.
Thanks in advance,
Linda White
LickHaven Pottery
Dushore PA
Andy Misner on fri 31 aug 07
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 16:13:15 -0400, Linda White wrote:
As somebody who is in the refractory installation business the best advice I
can give you is to put either "v" type anchors from the shell, or to put in
a dovetail near the bottom and top to let the refractory have something to
grab on to.
Andy Misner
www.indfirebrick.com
>I won't be able to cover the whole kiln in one session, so I'm
>wondering if there is anything I should do to ensure a good bond
>between the stuff that I put on yesterday or the day before and the
>new stuff I'm putting on today.
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