The TRIAD Group on thu 10 oct 96
Greetings,
I do lots of underglaze ornamenting of my lowfire ware. The
commercial underglaze is pretty expensive (as you all know). Is there
some reason why I can't just make up a thin white slip and add mason
stains to color? It seems that it would work. Am I missing
something? Is there a limit to how much stain the slip can absorb?
Do I have to add something to the slip to make the mason stain fix
onto the peice. Does it matter if I use colored slip on bisque or
leather hard peices (I preferr to work on leather hard as I do carving
through.) any ideas/advice is welcome.
Kat Cooke in Kirkland WA, where our Indian Summer is coming to an
end......Rain expected later today.....and let the gray begin.
Vince Pitelka on fri 11 oct 96
>I do lots of underglaze ornamenting of my lowfire ware. The
>commercial underglaze is pretty expensive (as you all know). Is there
>some reason why I can't just make up a thin white slip and add mason
>stains to color? I preferr to work on leather hard as I do carving
>through.
>Kat Cooke in Kirkland WA
Kat -
Since you are working on leather hard wares there is absolutely no reason to
use commercial underglazes. Even if you were working on bone dry or bisque
wares you could mix an engobe base which would stick to the wares just fine.
For application to leather hard wares, you can use any opacified (add 6%
zircopax) whiteware slip and add mason stains to get the colors you want. I
have always simply added them by appearance, and have never had problems
with them - for the most intense colors I would estimate the addition might
be as much as 25% mason stain. Most colors would call for far less.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@Dekalb.Net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts, Smithville TN 37166
Wendy Hampton on fri 11 oct 96
I have not had any problem adding mason stains to slip. I also add slip to
leather hard pieces. I have not tried it on bisque.
Wendy from Bainbridge Island WA - Its raining here too!
Dave Schiman on fri 11 oct 96
The TRIAD Group wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Greetings,
>
> I do lots of underglaze ornamenting of my lowfire ware. The
> commercial underglaze is pretty expensive (as you all know). Is there
> some reason why I can't just make up a thin white slip and add mason
> stains to color?
Hi:
I am new to ClayArt. I have been a potter for only 2 years so the
suggestions from this newsgroup are just what I needed. I live in Moose
Jaw, Saskatchewan, Canada. I share a studio space with 9 other artists
which makes for some interesting times. I primarily work on the wheel.
Now for why I wrote. In the last year I have been decorating exclusively
with a white slip mixed with mason stains. I apply when at the leather
hard stage and cut designs in. I center the piece on the wheel and tool
the slip when it is dry to make nice, even border. I have done Japanese
(near as I can achieve) brushwork, sponge decorating, and variations of
all. The possibilities are endless and exciting.
I don't bother measuring how much stain I put in, I go by sight and a
test tile. It is very stable and I have not had any problem with
flaking. If you make a mistake, it is corrected by a swipe of the
sponge. I could go on but I think you get the picture.
Hope I have been some help.
Janice Schiman
d.schiman@sk.sympatico.ca
Getting the kids snowsuits primed and ready.
Chris Tyler on tue 15 oct 96
There is no reason that I know of why you should not formulate your
own underglazes from slip of some sort. The amount of slip will depend
on the shrinkage and "fit", as well as the degree of activity in the glaze.
As far as I understand it, conventional underglazes are applied after
bisque firing. In this case, the slip should be formulated to allow for less
shrinkage than on green ware. Perhaps some flux would be necessary.
If your glaze has a very active flux, it could dissolve some of the slip and
some of the colour. Knowing the % of colour is therefore more critical
than it might appear. Testing will determine this.
You might get some problems with glaze crawling, depending how
powdery the underglaze is.
Good luck.
ZALT@aol.com on wed 16 oct 96
I use stains with slips most to the time when I am doing electric firings. I
find that the best method to approch mixing stains with slip is to do line
blends. Most stains reach their max colour value at 10% of the dry slip mix.
Some can go to 20% but most do not require such a heavy mix otherwise you
will just be wasting your material.
The clay body will also affect the colour intensity. Again test and if need
be test over a white slip of the same mix.
Best regards
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