Penny LaRocque on sat 13 apr 96
dear clayarters:
I am brand new to the world of clay--i'm in the middle of my 2nd-ever
class--but have been subscribed to, and watching the discussion on clayart
for about three weeks, now.
After telling someone i know about this discussion group she asked me to
post a question. i feel a bit silly about asking this question, after
reading the details of so much glaze testing, but here goes: my
acquaintance wants to know if its possible to do majolica using commercial
glazes, or is it only possible using recipes which you combine yourself?
I'm not sure why she is not interested in making her own glazes--but I told
her I'd ask. Hopefully one of you can give her the answers she's looking for.
Thanks in advance,
Penny (penny@thoughtport.com)
in Chicago, the grayest of gray lands!
Taraegon@aol.com on sun 14 apr 96
Penny, the answer is YES! Standard (out of Pittsburgh - telephone
#412-276-6333 ) has a wonderful "milky white" ^04 glaze that can be used as
the base glaze. Then use any Reward Velvets as the coloring glazes (make
sure that the one's you use are safe, as some shouldn't be used on plates,
etc....check the label for the warning.) I've been using Velvets for years.
And I just found (happily) the Standard glaze - last summer was spent testing
and testing commecial glazes to see which were opaque enough. Hurrah for
Standard!
Have fun!
Carol in Cleveland
Roger Bourland on thu 25 apr 96
First, to assuage guilt and save face, I make and enjoy making most of my
own glazes. Last year I dropped in on Minnesota Clay and was intrigued with
a few of their glazes. They looked great on sample tiles. I bought a few
and put them away against the day when I wanted to save some time and try
some new stuff. To my surprise 3 of the 6 were terrific!
Now, let me declare a confession time. Anyone out there find some
commercial glazes that you would call excellent?
My discoveries:"light rust", "copperhead" and "nebula", all cone 5 or 6
oxidation.
Roger Bourland
LBlos72758@aol.com on fri 26 apr 96
Dear Roger,
US Pigment's Sayeed has three commercial glazes that I play around with. He
has a raku crackle white that I add 10% epk to and fire to a full cone 6. It
is a creamy, off white that has great visual texture and breaks over edges
and texture very well. I fire this in gas and electric, any atmosphere works.
He also has a raku magic and raku classic. Both of these are deep green -
fired flat. I like them on tiles as part of a design palette. Fired
vertically, these last two run badly and look black. I'd mix my own, but
haven't been able to come up with close recipes yet.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
Starbuilders on sat 27 apr 96
Well, I must confess I really have fun with Amaco's "alligator" glazes.
They are great to play around with, and look a little (or a lot) different
each time you fire them. ^05 is a different animal than ^06, and cone 6
oxy comes out looking quite reduction-y although many of them begin to
resemble one another at that temp.
Katrina
PS Some of these are leaded, so check before you order them if that's a
factor for you.
James Twerdahl on tue 30 apr 96
I hate to give you a commercial message, but Mayco Colors makes dozens of
glazes that look great at cone 5 and 6. At cone 10 many fade out or run,
but if you are looking for bright colors and can work at ^5 or ^6 I think
you will be pleased. You can write for a color guide and a High Fire
guide to Mayco Colors, 4077 Weaver Court South, Hilliard, Ohio 43026.
Fax: 614-876-9904. Hope this helps. Jim Twerdahl
On Thu, 25 Apr 1996, Roger Bourland wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> First, to assuage guilt and save face, I make and enjoy making most of my
> own glazes. Last year I dropped in on Minnesota Clay and was intrigued with
> a few of their glazes. They looked great on sample tiles. I bought a few
> and put them away against the day when I wanted to save some time and try
> some new stuff. To my surprise 3 of the 6 were terrific!
>
> Now, let me declare a confession time. Anyone out there find some
> commercial glazes that you would call excellent?
>
> My discoveries:"light rust", "copperhead" and "nebula", all cone 5 or 6
> oxidation.
>
> Roger Bourland
>
Buckley/Brown on wed 20 aug 97
Am starting a ceramics program from scratch for a community in Fla.
spent yrs. mixing glazes as a jr. high school teAcher.....don't want to mix
anymore..I am too sensitive to the chemicals.......Need suggestion for a
commercial glaze that is user friendly, can be painted on or we can dip,
prefer cone 2-4..available by the gallon......would like to just stock a
white (matt?) and perhaps three other colors........also this Mason Stain
stuff is all new to me, how is it useful?
Judy B.
Malone & Dean McRaine on wed 24 sep 97
Aloha Sue:
I'm always a few days behind on Clayart (better than the 6 week lag I had
going this summer..) You might want to check out some of the major
catalogues that have color photos of their glazes. I deal with Laguna and I
know theirs is nice.
Dean
From Kauai where the first swell of the winter is building. Or, if you speak
surferese...10'barrels by morning :-)
Jean Lutz on tue 23 nov 99
Milton,
Yes, I stir. I usually use a hand held immersion blender. I've used both
the "wet" and dry glazes. Haven't seen any difference. Some of them do need
to be stired every few minutes as they settle almost immediately after
being stirred.
Thanks for the info on the Leslie glazes.
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:45:58 EST
From: NakedClay@aol.com
Subject: Re: Commercial Glaze problem
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Jean,
Do you stir the Laguna glazes well before applying to your wares? This is
quite important, especially with "wet" commercial glazes. Sometimes
commercial glazes sit on a store's shelf for a long time, settling the
contents well on the bottom of the glaze container.
When I use a commercial glaze, I usually stir the contents well, adding just
a little water if the contents are quite thick. Once stirred, I pour enough
glaze into a clean glass jelly jar. Then I thin the glaze in the jar with a
small amount of water.
The transfer of glaze into another container also helps me in another way. If
I make a boo-boo and accidentally place the brush I've used with one glaze
into the jar of another, I at least still have an un-contaminated source of
glaze.
I've had good results with cone 5-6 glazes made by Laguna, especially the
Moroccan Sand, Oasis Blue, and fair results with Emerald Green. Their yellow
glazes leave much to be desired, however.
I also buy glazes made by Leslie Ceramics, in Berkeley, CA. Leslie's Koke
Blue and Koke Green work well with darker clays. Koke Green is an almost
transparent glaze with copper green tint. Koke Blue is an opaque deep blue
glaze. Both Koke's are for cone 6 firing.
Leslie also sells dry glaze mixes in one or five-pound bags. Simply pour the
mix into a container, add water, and stir well. I've used their Iron Black
cone 10 glaze, which is a rick deep stony black. Jon's Clear is a shiny
transparent glaze, well-suited for coating over underglazed wares. It's a
versatile glaze, becoming transparent at cone 6, despite it's cone 10 rating.
Leslie Ceramics can be contacted at this phone number:
510/524-7363.
Best wishes!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
SAM YANCY on wed 24 nov 99
Hi,
We just bought powered glazes from Laguna, through Ceramics and Craft in SF.
My question: Does the glaze need to have a thickening agent added to it? I've
heard that you do, only for brushing the glazes on bisqueware. Thanks, and
peace, Mary Jean
Andi Cody on thu 25 nov 99
At the beginning of the glaze section in the Laguna catalogue, there is a
page that tells the ratio of water to mix with the dry glazes, as well as
how much bentonite or CMC to add for various weights.
Andi in too-dry San Diego
At 09:02 AM 11/24/1999 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
>We just bought powered glazes from Laguna, through Ceramics and Craft in SF.
>My question: Does the glaze need to have a thickening agent added to it? I've
>heard that you do, only for brushing the glazes on bisqueware. Thanks, and
>peace, Mary Jean
>
NakedClay@aol.com on fri 26 nov 99
Hi Jean!
I'm glad to have helped out.
Which of the Laguna glazes have you found unsatisfactory? You may want to
Email Laguna, or simply write your "bad" glazes to the ClayArt list. That
way, perhaps Laguna will change its recipe, and others on the list can avoid
them, until a change is made!
I wish you the best with Leslie's glazes. Try their underglazes, too!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
tgschs10 on sat 27 nov 99
I used commercial glazes and fired at ^6 for a number of years. While I have
several favorites in the Laguna line, I eventually switched over to Spectrum
glazes. I really like their line of commercial glazes.
Tom Sawyer
Orlando, Florida
tgschs10@classic.msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Commercial Glazes
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Jean!
>
> I'm glad to have helped out.
>
> Which of the Laguna glazes have you found unsatisfactory? You may want to
> Email Laguna, or simply write your "bad" glazes to the ClayArt list. That
> way, perhaps Laguna will change its recipe, and others on the list can
avoid
> them, until a change is made!
>
> I wish you the best with Leslie's glazes. Try their underglazes, too!
>
> Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
>
SAM YANCY on sun 28 nov 99
Thanks Andi, for the information on Laguna. Sam has printed out pages of info.
from the site! And As I read over so many messages on Clayart, he is reading
all this good info... I'm information-ed out! But, thanks for the good site.
We book marked it. Mary Jean
Jean Lutz on mon 29 nov 99
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 15:09:32 EST
From: NakedClay@aol.com
Subject: Re: Commercial Glazes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Milton,
I certainly don't expect Laguna to do anything about their glazes since
they didn't seem anxious to do anything about their clay recently.
Of the 21 glazes I've tried these are the ones giving me the most trouble.
Grape, Royal Blue, Castile Blue, Rafia, Cerulean, Hyacinth and Dutch Blue.
They are impossible to apply evenly regardless of whether I dip, pour or
brush.
Several others apply fairly well but provide a completely different finish
than shown on their sample sheets.
Guess I've finally screwed up my courage to chuck the whole lot and start
all over with a different supplier.
--
Hi Jean!
I'm glad to have helped out.
Which of the Laguna glazes have you found unsatisfactory? You may want to
Email Laguna, or simply write your "bad" glazes to the ClayArt list. That
way, perhaps Laguna will change its recipe, and others on the list can avoid
them, until a change is made!
I wish you the best with Leslie's glazes. Try their underglazes, too!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
Claudia C Maciel on tue 30 nov 99
I've been using several Laguna glazes -^5-6 in my clay classes and the
Chun red is a mightmare! Never ever even close to the sample shown and
this is going on 4 years with many opportunities to show its true colors!
We're putting it on Laguna B mix ^5-6 and that clay body is a story all
of its own! I'm definately switching out from Laguna...
Claudia Maciel
___________________________________________________________________
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tgschs10 on wed 1 dec 99
Claudia,
Some months ago I fired the Laguna Chun red in reduction and got a beautiful
solid red. I too had problems in oxidation and had intended to add some
silicon carbide to bring out the red but never got around to it. Might be
worth a try.
Tom Sawyer
Orlando, Florida
tgschs10.msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Claudia C Maciel
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: commercial glazes
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been using several Laguna glazes -^5-6 in my clay classes and the
> Chun red is a mightmare! Never ever even close to the sample shown and
> this is going on 4 years with many opportunities to show its true colors!
> We're putting it on Laguna B mix ^5-6 and that clay body is a story all
> of its own! I'm definately switching out from Laguna...
> Claudia Maciel
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
Diane Woloshyn on wed 1 dec 99
Hi Claudia,
Try Double firing your Chun Red. That is right. Fire it twice! It works
for me.
Diane Florida Bird Lady
Jean Lutz on fri 3 dec 99
Claudia and Tom
I too have tried the Chun Red. The only times it worked was when it was
applied VERY thick. Then it was great. But it only works when it feels like
it. There is no duplicating it. And you can't reapply and refire. It burns
out completely and turns a realy puke pale green.
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 14:52:49 EST
From: tgschs10
Subject: Re: commercial glazes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Claudia,
Some months ago I fired the Laguna Chun red in reduction and got a beautiful
solid red. I too had problems in oxidation and had intended to add some
silicon carbide to bring out the red but never got around to it. Might be
worth a try.
Tom Sawyer
Orlando, Florida
tgschs10.msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Claudia C Maciel
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: commercial glazes
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been using several Laguna glazes -^5-6 in my clay classes and the
> Chun red is a mightmare! Never ever even close to the sample shown and
> this is going on 4 years with many opportunities to show its true colors!
> We're putting it on Laguna B mix ^5-6 and that clay body is a story all
> of its own! I'm definately switching out from Laguna...
> Claudia Maciel
>
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
Claudia C Maciel on fri 3 dec 99
HI Diana and Tom, thanks for the interesting suggestions. . .I've never
added silicon carbide and will try to keep some sort of records of the
amt's and results-does the application have to be thick for the second
firing to work? We usually just dip once.
Enjoyed the encouragement, and hope for acceptable results.
Claudia
___________________________________________________________________
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
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SAM YANCY on sun 5 dec 99
Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got mostly
clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S. have
you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for the
first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all over
and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of the
pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the shelves
was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up after
about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may have
made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the peacock
glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that way.
What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna glazes
in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock was
one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of the
shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and electricity.
Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
Phyllis E. Tilton on sun 5 dec 99
Claudia: I, too, use B-Mix 5 but have had wonderful results with the chun
glaze----AFTER one bad attempt. It was on too thick and ran and was ugly. I
moistened the pot the next time to prevent the extra thickness and it is
lovely. It seems to do very well on textured or carved surfaces by breaking
white. Once in a while I get some green in there and sometimes blue.I have
fired it in oxidastion only.
Phyllis Tilton
Daisypet@aol,com
elizabeth priddy on mon 6 dec 99
why made you buy 250 lbs before you were very
versed with the glazes, some kind of sale?
minimum order thing? someone assure you they
were great? used them somewhere before and no
problems?
Just curious, I believe you had a good reason...
Perhaps there is something wrong with the batch
you have, it is rare, but it happens.
---
Elizabeth Priddy
email: epriddy@usa.net
http://www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Clay: 12,000 yrs and still fresh!
On Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:49:47 SAM YANCY wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got mostly
>clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S. have
>you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
>careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for the
>first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
>porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
>checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all over
>and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of the
>pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
>DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the shelves
>was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up after
>about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
>peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may have
>made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the peacock
>glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that way.
>What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna glazes
>in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock was
>one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
>test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
>the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of the
>shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and electricity.
>Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
>using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
>
--== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
CINDI ANDERSON on mon 6 dec 99
I am very interested in this thread. We planned to sell the Laguna
Morocan Sand Glazes in our store (I assume these are the ones you are
refering to?) But not if they don't work well. Maybe others have had
much beter luck, although isn't the main reason we go for commercial
glazes for stability and predictability?
Our store offers the ability for people to add comments like this about
a glaze; it worked, it didn't work, how you got it to work etc. I think
it will be very interesting to build up this type of database about
commercial glazes.
Cindi
BigCeramicStore.com
ps Although our grand opening isn't for nother couple weeks, you can
still enter your glaze comments, sign up for Tip of the Week, as well as
enter your availablity to teach classes or rent out kiln space.
Comments are appreciated.
SAM YANCY wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got mostly
> clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S. have
> you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
> careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for the
> first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
> porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
> checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all over
> and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of the
> pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
> DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the shelves
> was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up after
> about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
> peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may have
> made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the peacock
> glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that way.
> What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna glazes
> in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock was
> one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
> test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
> the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of the
> shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and electricity.
> Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
> using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
Janet Statuti on mon 6 dec 99
To SAM YANCY,
If you are using Laguna Moroccan Sand Peacock-T your problem may be
temperature sensitivity. I used Forest Green-T only on a test tile first. It
ran badly. I called Laguna and was told that their T or transparent glazes
are supposed to be fired to cone 4, no higher. They have an 800 phone number
and are helpful. Remember to test each glaze batch before using it on a
whole kiln load. Time consuming to test but it saves much heartbreak. I've
used lots of Laguna glazes in a teaching situation and they work for us.
Some (maybe all) do need bentonite added to keep suspended. Good Luck and
don't give up.
>From: SAM YANCY
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: commercial glazes
>Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:49:47 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got
>mostly
>clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S.
>have
>you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
>careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for
>the
>first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
>porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
>checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all
>over
>and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of
>the
>pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
>DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the
>shelves
>was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up
>after
>about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
>peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may
>have
>made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the
>peacock
>glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that
>way.
>What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna
>glazes
>in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock
>was
>one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
>test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
>the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of
>the
>shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and
>electricity.
>Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
>using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Andi Cody on mon 6 dec 99
You are right about the peacock; we had to replace kiln shelves after using
on the outsides of our pots too. It does look pretty nice on the inside
though, like looking into a clear pool of water. We don't use on the
outsides anymore.
Andi in San Diego
At 10:49 AM 12/05/1999 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got mostly
>clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S. have
>you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
>careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for
the
>first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
>porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
>checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all over
>and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of the
>pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
>DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the
shelves
>was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up
after
>about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
>peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may have
>made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the peacock
>glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that
way.
>What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna
glazes
>in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock
was
>one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
>test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
>the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of
the
>shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and
electricity.
>Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
>using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
>
Farren on tue 7 dec 99
I have used several of the Laguna Morocan Sand glazes and find them extremely
reliable at cone 5 to 6. They're not all that exciting but they brush on well an
are great on a variety of clay bodies. The Walnut Spice has sold pretty well for
and has been very consistent -- not pinholing or weird stuff happening. I am
probably going to try others because I have mixed glazes for firing at electric
5 and find them more problematic. Anyway, that's my two cents.
Patricia
CINDI ANDERSON wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am very interested in this thread. We planned to sell the Laguna
> Morocan Sand Glazes in our store (I assume these are the ones you are
> refering to?) But not if they don't work well. Maybe others have had
> much beter luck, although isn't the main reason we go for commercial
> glazes for stability and predictability?
>
> Our store offers the ability for people to add comments like this about
> a glaze; it worked, it didn't work, how you got it to work etc. I think
> it will be very interesting to build up this type of database about
> commercial glazes.
> Cindi
> BigCeramicStore.com
>
> ps Although our grand opening isn't for nother couple weeks, you can
> still enter your glaze comments, sign up for Tip of the Week, as well as
> enter your availablity to teach classes or rent out kiln space.
> Comments are appreciated.
>
> SAM YANCY wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Claudia- I sure agree with you with Chun Red. I tried it also and got mostly
> > clears with a touch of red in some spots. I don't use it any more. P.S. have
> > you tried their peacock blue - cone 5? If not suggest DON'T" or be very
> > careful as it's the runniest glaze that I have come across. Last week, for t
> > first time, I sprayed a full kiln load of (on the outside) many, many
> > porcelain bowls and vases. They were not heavily coated, however even
> > checking/verifying the cone 5 temp (which was fine), the glaze ran all over
> > and ruined (I mean RUINED) my kiln shelves (for information the inside of th
> > pieces were glazed white which was no problem). The total load was
> > DESTROYED!!!. The only way I could remove the bowls and vases from the shelv
> > was with a hammer!! Grinding the shelves was a nightmare - and I gave up aft
> > about two hours of grinding and dust. New shelves cost me over $100! The
> > peacock blue glaze was sprayed on the outside of the pieces, so that may hav
> > made some difference but I don't know. I will try again soon with the peacoc
> > glaze only on the inside or some porcelain bowls. Maybe it will work that wa
> > What bothers me too is that I just bought over 250Lbs of various laguna glaz
> > in dry form and mixed about 25 gallons of many of their glazes - , peacock w
> > one of them. I hope that they are ok. I guess I will have to try a bunch of
> > test tiles to check the rest of the glazes out. I am really disappointed as
> > the vases and bowls were destined for a X-Mas Sale so I as out the cost of t
> > shelves, and the sale of the pottery, not to mention the time and electricit
> > Maybe it's the Clay Gods??? Group comments appreciated - especially any on
> > using these glazes. Regards and happy Xmas potting to all. Sam Yancy
Wint & Marla Harris on tue 7 dec 99
Ok, everybody...I've been trying to complete this post for a couple of
days. Please bear with me --
Laguna Peacock -- I had terrible running (re: Sam's post) and blistering
when I fired to ^5. One fateful day as I was making a visit to my supplier,
he happened to mention he had pulled all the Peacock from his shelves
explaining all the similar complaints with it. He had a call in to Laguna
at that time...don't know if he ever heard back from them. He told me
the Peacock was in the Laguna line of ^1 to ^5 glazes and he personally
believed it had been mislabeled to ^5. I haven't attempted to fire it to
^1 yet. That could be worth a try.
Chun Red -- I've used this a lot, both by itself and layered with other
Laguna glazes. It seems to be temperature *controllable* for me. Cooler
is better, you might try ^4. I have also gotten the green/blue pools with
this glaze as well as nice khaki breaking. Contrary to another Clayarter's
experience, I have refired it and gotten "redder" results.
By and large, I'm fairly well pleased with the Laguna line. Granted, I've
NEVER gotten any help from calling Laguna with questions about either
their glazes or clays. Using commercial glazes still involves a high degree
of testing and experimentation. I've found the clay body also makes a big
difference. Try layering these glazes, *after* you've used them alone and
know a bit about their performance. I've gotten some stunning effects
from that.
Marla
Joan & Tom Woodward on wed 8 dec 99
------------------
To add my two cents worth, I've used Laguna Antique Blue and Sunflower =
glazes.
Both pretty reliable when you eliminate the problems caused by my less than
adept dipping. I've also used a couple of glazes mixed by Clay Art Center =
in
Seattle, and a couple of Amaco ones (Teal and Oatmeal). I do mix some of my=
own
and have lots to learn in this area.
Joan in Alaska where it actually feels a little like winter. Unlike Carla, =
I'm
not too unhappy with the paucity of snow. Never got this far in winter =
without
living in boots. Much simpler this way=21
SAM YANCY on wed 8 dec 99
Dear Marle,
I have layered the laguna peacock. Using gunmetal on the bottom, as it
doesn't 'run' like the peacock. The neat thing is that the peacock does run,
and right into the gunmetal, giving a great result. Mary Jean
Gayle Bair on wed 8 dec 99
I erased the post but I recall that someone
wrote that they were told by a Laguna person that
their Peacock glaze should not be fired to ^5.
If that is true why does the Laguna catalog list
that as a ^5 glaze?
Just curious!
Gayle Bair
SAM YANCY on thu 16 dec 99
A couple of weeks ago, I responded to another potters message about the use of
Laguna's commercial (cone 5) glazes - (i.e. MS-32 Chun red and MS-27 peacock
blue). Another potter had used chun red with no success, and I responded to
my recent experience with peacock blue (runny-ruined pots, ruined shelves, etc.)
One of the things I mentioned in my message was that I had bought about 250
lb. of dry laguna cone 5 glaze(s) and I was concerned because of my experience
with chun red and peacock blue. I received many messages and suggestions on
this subject- so I thought I would give you-all an update and try to respond
to the many questions recieved.
Question: Why did I buy so much glaze (25O pounds +)? Answer: because I had
past experience with many laguna glazes, and I wanted to experiment with more
colors/glazes and also save BIG Bucks. On the west coast (California), laguna
glazes sell for about $7 to $8 for a pint jars (liquid form). I can mix
about 5 lb. of dry glaze (cost $7-$12) which makes almost a gallon of glaze
(approx. 12-16 pints) for about less than $1 (ONE Dollar) per pint. Something
to think about. Note: Ultimately I would like to mix my own glazes, but
would need set up storage area and much more research as to "what general bulk
materials to buy for the most glazes" (any suggestions?).
One Suggestion Message; "Try peacock glaze at a lower temperature". Answer:
Just did. Put some peacock blue glaze on the inside of some already bisked
porcelain pots and in a bisk load (Cone 04). Result? Worked great!!! Obviously
the Peacock blue glaze (and the MS-4 forest green glaze too) will run if too
high a cone. temp in the kiln. believe these glazes are set a much lower cone
and mentioned in a mail that I received.
Final Question: Why did I not test tile the glazes? Answer: anxious and in a
hurry - never again!!
Note:I did finally test tile all the laguna glazes I bought. These are my test r
MS-3 wheat - (GOOD) / MS - 4 - Forest Green - transparent - runny - fire at
much lower temperature for good results / -MS-9-Sandy matte opaque - Good /
MS-13 Lemon yellow-matte opaque - Good / MS-20 - Royal Blue - opaque - Good-
but slightly runny - careful / MS-27 - Peacock Blue - transparent - Very
runny - fire at much lower temperature for good results / MS- 29 - Clear
Bright - Good / MS-32 Chun Red - Fair - some reds - need to experiment more/
MS-35 - Sage - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 37 Turkish Amber - Good- but
slightly runny- careful / MS-42 - Speckled Moss - matte - opaque - OK but not
quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 43 - Amethyst - matte - opaque - OK but
not quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 50 - Dutch Sprinkle - matte - opaque
- Good / MS - 55 - Antique blue - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats
/ MS - 57 - Cappuccino - Good- but slightly runny - careful / MS - 60 Walnut
Spice - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 63 - Colonial White - opaque - Good / MS
- 64 - Sunflower - opaque - Good / MS-75 Chive - Good / MS - 77 Jade - opaque
- Good / MS - Forest Green - Good / MS - 79 - Alfred Blue - good/ MS - 83 -
Maroon - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats / MS - 84 - Sunflower -
opaque - good / MS - 90 - Blackberry Wine - Good - but needs (if spraying)
several coats / MS - 94 High Gloss black - Good /
Bottom line is that I should have tested all the glazes first - but Greed and
a X - mass sale got in the way. The Clay gods Taught me a lesson. Comments
appreciated - especially "what general bulk materials should I buy for the
most cone 5 - 9 glazes" (any suggestions?). hopefully some of you experts out
there will share the knowledge. I'm sure a lot of us novices would appreciate
the information. Sam Yancy
SAM YANCY on thu 16 dec 99
Thanks for your kind advise. I agree - tested the glaze at cone 04 and it was
great!. I'm sending a long return message with details to another potter with
more info. I hope it gets posted. rewgards, Sam
Joanne Van Bezooyen on fri 17 dec 99
Re. Amaco Peacock Blue and Hyacinth......I was disappointed with both, However..
love to use them OVER other glazes....the hyacinth in particular can create almo
an irridescence.
The WHEAT is wonderful.
Joanne in Tucson....temps from low of low 30's to highs of high 70's. sunny
SAM YANCY wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> A couple of weeks ago, I responded to another potters message about the use of
> Laguna's commercial (cone 5) glazes - (i.e. MS-32 Chun red and MS-27 peacock
> blue). Another potter had used chun red with no success, and I responded to
> my recent experience with peacock blue (runny-ruined pots, ruined shelves, etc
>
> One of the things I mentioned in my message was that I had bought about 250
> lb. of dry laguna cone 5 glaze(s) and I was concerned because of my experience
> with chun red and peacock blue. I received many messages and suggestions on
> this subject- so I thought I would give you-all an update and try to respond
> to the many questions recieved.
>
> Question: Why did I buy so much glaze (25O pounds +)? Answer: because I had
> past experience with many laguna glazes, and I wanted to experiment with more
> colors/glazes and also save BIG Bucks. On the west coast (California), laguna
> glazes sell for about $7 to $8 for a pint jars (liquid form). I can mix
> about 5 lb. of dry glaze (cost $7-$12) which makes almost a gallon of glaze
> (approx. 12-16 pints) for about less than $1 (ONE Dollar) per pint. Something
> to think about. Note: Ultimately I would like to mix my own glazes, but
> would need set up storage area and much more research as to "what general bulk
> materials to buy for the most glazes" (any suggestions?).
>
> One Suggestion Message; "Try peacock glaze at a lower temperature". Answer:
> Just did. Put some peacock blue glaze on the inside of some already bisked
> porcelain pots and in a bisk load (Cone 04). Result? Worked great!!! Obviously
> the Peacock blue glaze (and the MS-4 forest green glaze too) will run if too
> high a cone. temp in the kiln. believe these glazes are set a much lower cone
> and mentioned in a mail that I received.
> Final Question: Why did I not test tile the glazes? Answer: anxious and in a
> hurry - never again!!
>
> Note:I did finally test tile all the laguna glazes I bought. These are my test
> MS-3 wheat - (GOOD) / MS - 4 - Forest Green - transparent - runny - fire at
> much lower temperature for good results / -MS-9-Sandy matte opaque - Good /
> MS-13 Lemon yellow-matte opaque - Good / MS-20 - Royal Blue - opaque - Good-
> but slightly runny - careful / MS-27 - Peacock Blue - transparent - Very
> runny - fire at much lower temperature for good results / MS- 29 - Clear
> Bright - Good / MS-32 Chun Red - Fair - some reds - need to experiment more/
> MS-35 - Sage - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 37 Turkish Amber - Good- but
> slightly runny- careful / MS-42 - Speckled Moss - matte - opaque - OK but not
> quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 43 - Amethyst - matte - opaque - OK but
> not quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 50 - Dutch Sprinkle - matte - opaque
> - Good / MS - 55 - Antique blue - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats
> / MS - 57 - Cappuccino - Good- but slightly runny - careful / MS - 60 Walnut
> Spice - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 63 - Colonial White - opaque - Good / MS
> - 64 - Sunflower - opaque - Good / MS-75 Chive - Good / MS - 77 Jade - opaque
> - Good / MS - Forest Green - Good / MS - 79 - Alfred Blue - good/ MS - 83 -
> Maroon - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats / MS - 84 - Sunflower -
> opaque - good / MS - 90 - Blackberry Wine - Good - but needs (if spraying)
> several coats / MS - 94 High Gloss black - Good /
>
> Bottom line is that I should have tested all the glazes first - but Greed and
> a X - mass sale got in the way. The Clay gods Taught me a lesson. Comments
> appreciated - especially "what general bulk materials should I buy for the
> most cone 5 - 9 glazes" (any suggestions?). hopefully some of you experts out
> there will share the knowledge. I'm sure a lot of us novices would appreciate
> the information. Sam Yancy
Mike Gordon on wed 25 oct 00
Hi Jean,
Well, welcome to Laguna land! I'll start out by saying I don't use their
glazes , but do use Duncan, and other commercial glazes. But I do use
Laguna's clay and consistancy is NOT a Laguna trademark. Batch numbers
are important to keep track of if you want to continue using their
products. Contact your dealer and complain. Mine has offered to replace
it and send the rest back to Laguna. Mike Gordon
Jean Lutz on wed 25 oct 00
Is it normal that different batches of commercial glazes are significantly
different?
I purchased two containers of one of Laguna's Moroccan Sand Glazes. They
turned out to be significantly different. I had never paid any attention to
batch numbers on the containers before. But these two are different. No
where in their literature does Laguna say that one should be aware of batch
numbers when purchasing their glaze nor did anyone at the local supplier
say anything about looking at batch number.
I assumed that since these glazes were prepared by "professionals" they
would be consistant.
Do I have my head in the clouds or should one be able to depend on the
professionals to provide consistancy in their products?
I now have over half of a large order that I can't use because of the color
difference.
I'm about ready to shoot myself.
Jean Lutz
Scottsdale, AZ
Cyn Blamire on thu 26 oct 00
I have had the same experience with inconsistency in commercial glazes. My
experience is that you cannot assume there will be consistency from batch to
batch. Some lines are more consistent than others.
Cyn
Cindy Strnad on thu 26 oct 00
Jean,
You don't say whether you're making this order for a retailer or for an
individual. It makes a difference. If you're making it for an individual,
then he/she is likely to want all the pieces to be the same color. You'll
need to talk to the customer, explain the problem, and ask if the new glaze
is acceptable. Then you'll probably have to re-do the half of the order
that's glazed in the old glaze. Hard to swallow, but things like that happen
and you can't let yourself dwell on them too much.
Learn from it. In the future, make sure you have a full supply of the glaze
you'll be needing. Fire all the pieces in one kiln load if possible. If not,
at least fire all the plates together, all the bowls together, etc. Then,
use an identical firing schedule on all the other kiln loads.
On the other hand, if the order is for a retailer, well, they usually don't
care all that much. If the glazes are both attractive, your retailer will be
likely to take the whole order. Just make sure you explain to her that you
can't guarantee you'll be able to reliably reproduce either of the glazes.
Here's why:
Neither Laguna nor anyone else can guarantee the consistency of a mined
material. Mineral obtained ten feet from the old mine site may differ
significantly from that old site--that's just the way the earth is made. You
may need to explain this to your wholesale customers. Make it look like a
positive feature, because it is. This is part of the unique charm of
handmade work, so sell it as such.
Mass producers purchase huge quantities of their glaze materials at a time
to guarantee homogeneity. Boring, in my opinion, but that is what some folks
want. However, if your retailers wanted this, they would be buying from the
people who sell to Wal-Mart, wouldn't they? If you want a bit more
consistency, however, you, too, can stock up as much as your pocketbook will
allow.
There's also a possibility that Laguna has changed its glaze formulation
(probably to replace Gerstley borate) and not told you about it. Suppliers
are prone to this kind of messing around. We potters don't like it much, but
that's the way it is. You can call and ask them. I don't know anything about
Laguna, but even so, I doubt you'll get a straight answer. Suppliers are
usually very protective of their glaze recipes.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Jonathan Kaplan on thu 26 oct 00
>Is it normal that different batches of commercial glazes are significantly
>different?
No! These formulae are quite consistant. Variations in raw materials,
human error and stupidity account for the rest. Also bad mixing procedures.
Also not caring. But thats for another poist.
>I purchased two containers of one of Laguna's Moroccan Sand Glazes. They
>turned out to be significantly different. I had never paid any attention to
>batch numbers on the containers before. But these two are different. No
>where in their literature does Laguna say that one should be aware of batch
>numbers when purchasing their glaze nor did anyone at the local supplier
>say anything about looking at batch number.
I would always check product before commiting it onto your work. And yes,
even glazes.
I won't start an Laguna rant here. Not the place.
>I assumed that since these glazes were prepared by "professionals" they
>would be consistant.
Go figure. Professionals may have formulated the glazes but I would doubt
that they are mixed by the same from any manufacturer.
>Do I have my head in the clouds or should one be able to depend on the
>professionals to provide consistancy in their products?
Yes you need to depend on commercial products and need to have that
confidence. If you have an issue with Laguna, call them.
>I now have over half of a large order that I can't use because of the color
>difference.
You need to make it specifically clear to them and send them tiles and rant
and rave that the product is not the same.
>I'm about ready to shoot myself.
Don't. Its not worth it. If you don't let them know your dis-satisfaction,
then the same things continue.
>Jean Lutz
>Scottsdale, AZ
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design GroupLTD/Production Services
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
Jean Lutz on fri 27 oct 00
Mike,
I use Laguna because it's the only one the local supplier carries and
trying to buy glazes from printed color charts is impossible.
I contacted Laguna about the difference and mentioned that their literature
does not mention batch numbers nor does their representative seem to be
aware of the issue. Their response was (and I will paraphrase) Gee, that's
too bad. We'll mention it to our sales representatives. They also said that
they had notices differences in other brands of glazes (I don't know if
this is true or not) To top it off they suggested I purchase 100 pounds of
their dry glaze.
In the first place I purchased the pre mixed glaze because I am brushing it
on that their pre mixed glaze is supposedly already prepared for brush
application. Secondly, the local supplier sells their dry glaze in 5 pound
bags. Additionally, I don't have room for 100 pounds and I would have to
live several more lifetimes to use up 100 pounds of glaze.
I haven't yet contacted the local supplier. I'm waiting to hear back from
Laguna to my semi polite retort to their reply to my problem.
Jean
>
>Hi Jean,
>Well, welcome to Laguna land! I'll start out by saying I don't use their
>glazes , but do use Duncan, and other commercial glazes. But I do use
>Laguna's clay and consistancy is NOT a Laguna trademark. Batch numbers
>are important to keep track of if you want to continue using their
>products. Contact your dealer and complain. Mine has offered to replace
>it and send the rest back to Laguna. Mike Gordon
>
>
>
Jean Lutz on fri 27 oct 00
Cindy,
The order is for an individual and I purchased small amounts of a number of
glazes to do samples for her to choose from. Naturally the one she selected
had to be the one that is now different. I can understand slight variations
but this is significant. One is quite white with a satiny mat finish - the
other is very yellow with nearly a glossy finish. There is no way to mix
the two in one set.
I'll just have to keep buying different batch numbers until I find the one
she wants and then hope that I can then get more of it. I was very
disappointed in the response from Laguna. This isn't the first time I've
had problems with their products and their response is always pretty much
the same. "Gee, that's too bad but we haven't noticed a problem"
The lesson I've learned which is one I should have heeded from reading
CLAYART for so long is to NEVER do custom orders. I'm having the word "NO"
tattooed (yes it's spelled correctly - I just looked it up) on my forhead
and my husband has strict instructions that if I even think about doing
this again he is to take me out into the desert and shoot me!
I just hope I can live long enough to finish this job.
Jean
>Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 08:45:55 -0600
>From: Cindy Strnad
>Subject: Re: commercial glazes
>>Jean,
>>You don't say whether you're making this order for a retailer or for an
>individual. It makes a difference. If you're making it for an individual,
>then he/she is likely to want all the pieces to be the same color. You'll
>need to talk to the customer, explain the problem, and ask if the new glaze
>is acceptable. Then you'll probably have to re-do the half of the order
>that's glazed in the old glaze. Hard to swallow, but things like that happen
>and you can't let yourself dwell on them too much.
>
>Learn from it. In the future, make sure you have a full supply of the glaze
>you'll be needing. Fire all the pieces in one kiln load if possible. If not,
>at least fire all the plates together, all the bowls together, etc. Then,
>use an identical firing schedule on all the other kiln loads.
>
>On the other hand, if the order is for a retailer, well, they usually don't
>care all that much. If the glazes are both attractive, your retailer will be
>likely to take the whole order. Just make sure you explain to her that you
>can't guarantee you'll be able to reliably reproduce either of the glazes.
>Here's why:
>
>Neither Laguna nor anyone else can guarantee the consistency of a mined
>material. Mineral obtained ten feet from the old mine site may differ
>significantly from that old site--that's just the way the earth is made. You
>may need to explain this to your wholesale customers. Make it look like a
>positive feature, because it is. This is part of the unique charm of
>handmade work, so sell it as such.
>
>Mass producers purchase huge quantities of their glaze materials at a time
>to guarantee homogeneity. Boring, in my opinion, but that is what some folks
>want. However, if your retailers wanted this, they would be buying from the
>people who sell to Wal-Mart, wouldn't they? If you want a bit more
>consistency, however, you, too, can stock up as much as your pocketbook will
>allow.
>
>There's also a possibility that Laguna has changed its glaze formulation
>(probably to replace Gerstley borate) and not told you about it. Suppliers
>are prone to this kind of messing around. We potters don't like it much, but
>that's the way it is. You can call and ask them. I don't know anything about
>Laguna, but even so, I doubt you'll get a straight answer. Suppliers are
>usually very protective of their glaze recipes.
>
>Cindy Strnad
>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>RR 1, Box 51
>Custer, SD 57730
>USA
>earthenv@gwtc.net
>http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
>
Jean Lutz on fri 27 oct 00
Jonathan,
I've contacted Laguna and will continue to "work" with them over this
issue. I would change suppliers in an instant if there was any other local
source but there isn't. Since I don't have the room to store both chemicals
and mixed glaze I have to rely on commercial glazes for the time being.
I'ts such a crap shoot to purchase glazes from printed color samples - even
the sample tiles at the supplier are only slightly better but at least it's
something.
Would it be unreasonable for me to expect them to reimburse me for at least
the cost of the glaze that I can't use? I've accepted the fact that I've
lost all the time and product already glazed that I can't use. It's been a
very expensive lesson and one I hope I never forget.
Thanks to everyone who responded. I've postponed the suicide temporarily.
Jean
>Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 11:02:16 -0600
>From: Jonathan Kaplan
>Subject: Re: commercial glazes
>
>>Is it normal that different batches of commercial glazes are significantly
>>different?
>
> No! These formulae are quite consistant. Variations in raw materials,
>human error and stupidity account for the rest. Also bad mixing procedures.
>Also not caring. But thats for another poist.
>
>>I purchased two containers of one of Laguna's Moroccan Sand Glazes. They
>>turned out to be significantly different. I had never paid any attention to
>>batch numbers on the containers before. But these two are different. No
>>where in their literature does Laguna say that one should be aware of batch
>>numbers when purchasing their glaze nor did anyone at the local supplier
>>say anything about looking at batch number.
>
>I would always check product before commiting it onto your work. And yes,
>even glazes.
>I won't start an Laguna rant here. Not the place.
>
>>I assumed that since these glazes were prepared by "professionals" they
>>would be consistant.
>Go figure. Professionals may have formulated the glazes but I would doubt
>that they are mixed by the same from any manufacturer.
>
>>Do I have my head in the clouds or should one be able to depend on the
>>professionals to provide consistancy in their products?
>
>Yes you need to depend on commercial products and need to have that
>confidence. If you have an issue with Laguna, call them.
>>I now have over half of a large order that I can't use because of the color
>>difference.
>
>You need to make it specifically clear to them and send them tiles and rant
>and rave that the product is not the same.
>
>>I'm about ready to shoot myself.
>
>Don't. Its not worth it. If you don't let them know your dis-satisfaction,
>then the same things continue.
>>Jean Lutz
>>Scottsdale, AZ
>>
>>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>Jonathan Kaplan
>Ceramic Design GroupLTD/Production Services
>PO Box 775112
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
>(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
>http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
>
>UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
>
Nina Jones on fri 27 oct 00
You "SHOULD" always get completely consistent and predictable results with =
commercial glazes. The glaze manufacturers hire technical experts like =
our beloved Ron Roy to make sure that this is so. However, mistakes are =
made, even by large companies like Laguna.
If you mixed your glaze thoroughly before use, you used the same applicatio=
n technique throughout, and your claybody and your firing conditions are =
the same for this entire order, your results should be the same. That's =
one of the reasons for buying commercial glazes. THEY are supposed to do =
the testing on every batch to make sure the results are consistent. I =
would contact my supplier and/or Laguna directly.
All that said, it is the occasional inconsistencies, and the cost (not =
just for the glaze, but the loss of time and the end product as well), =
along with a lot of other personal/artistic development factors, that have =
lead me to make my own glazes. As long as I have to test each and every =
batch to insure I'll get the results I want, I might as well mix my own =
glazes. And then there's the pleasure of knowing you have more control =
over your process and materials.
Nina D. Jones
Southside Chicago
@ njones@winston.com=20
amy parker on fri 27 oct 00
Jean - I suggest you send two pieces of your different results to Laguna
(not your supplier), return receipt requested, and ask (politely) for them
to explain the difference in the two on your same clay body, same kiln,
same firing schedule. Give them the batch numbers for each, if you still
have them. State firmly, but politely, that you have used their glazes for
X years, with satisfactory results, and ask that they replace your latest
batch with the color from the original, or explain why they will never be
able to duplicate it again. Ask that they refund your money for the
unacceptable batches.
This is inexcusable from a major supplier. Bad news travels fast. Good news
is slow to spread. Most suppliers SHOULD be responsive to any problems.
*** HIGHWATER CLAY IS RESPONSIVE!!! *** (Small plug for the good guys!)
Amy in Still-Hot-Lanta
PS - I've had great results with simliar tactics with pig-headed teachers
at my kids' schools - just start nice & act dumb - it's amazing what
wonderful results you can get! got the most wonderful 4 page letter back
from a teacher today!
At 08:29 AM 10/27/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Cindy,
>The order is for an individual and I purchased small amounts of a number of
>glazes to do samples for her to choose from. Naturally the one she selected
>had to be the one that is now different. I can understand slight variations
>but this is significant. One is quite white with a satiny mat finish - the
>other is very yellow with nearly a glossy finish. There is no way to mix
>the two in one set.
>I'll just have to keep buying different batch numbers until I find the one
>she wants and then hope that I can then get more of it. I was very
>disappointed in the response from Laguna. This isn't the first time I've
>had problems with their products and their response is always pretty much
>the same. "Gee, that's too bad but we haven't noticed a problem"
>The lesson I've learned which is one I should have heeded from reading
>CLAYART for so long is to NEVER do custom orders. I'm having the word "NO"
>tattooed (yes it's spelled correctly - I just looked it up) on my forhead
>and my husband has strict instructions that if I even think about doing
>this again he is to take me out into the desert and shoot me!
>I just hope I can live long enough to finish this job.
>Jean
>
>
>
>>Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 08:45:55 -0600
>>From: Cindy Strnad
>>Subject: Re: commercial glazes
>>>Jean,
>>>You don't say whether you're making this order for a retailer or for an
>>individual. It makes a difference. If you're making it for an individual,
>>then he/she is likely to want all the pieces to be the same color. You'll
>>need to talk to the customer, explain the problem, and ask if the new glaze
>>is acceptable. Then you'll probably have to re-do the half of the order
>>that's glazed in the old glaze. Hard to swallow, but things like that happen
>>and you can't let yourself dwell on them too much.
>>
>>Learn from it. In the future, make sure you have a full supply of the glaze
>>you'll be needing. Fire all the pieces in one kiln load if possible. If not,
>>at least fire all the plates together, all the bowls together, etc. Then,
>>use an identical firing schedule on all the other kiln loads.
>>
>>On the other hand, if the order is for a retailer, well, they usually don't
>>care all that much. If the glazes are both attractive, your retailer will be
>>likely to take the whole order. Just make sure you explain to her that you
>>can't guarantee you'll be able to reliably reproduce either of the glazes.
>>Here's why:
>>
>>Neither Laguna nor anyone else can guarantee the consistency of a mined
>>material. Mineral obtained ten feet from the old mine site may differ
>>significantly from that old site--that's just the way the earth is made. You
>>may need to explain this to your wholesale customers. Make it look like a
>>positive feature, because it is. This is part of the unique charm of
>>handmade work, so sell it as such.
>>
>>Mass producers purchase huge quantities of their glaze materials at a time
>>to guarantee homogeneity. Boring, in my opinion, but that is what some folks
>>want. However, if your retailers wanted this, they would be buying from the
>>people who sell to Wal-Mart, wouldn't they? If you want a bit more
>>consistency, however, you, too, can stock up as much as your pocketbook will
>>allow.
>>
>>There's also a possibility that Laguna has changed its glaze formulation
>>(probably to replace Gerstley borate) and not told you about it. Suppliers
>>are prone to this kind of messing around. We potters don't like it much, but
>>that's the way it is. You can call and ask them. I don't know anything about
>>Laguna, but even so, I doubt you'll get a straight answer. Suppliers are
>>usually very protective of their glaze recipes.
>>
>>Cindy Strnad
>>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>>RR 1, Box 51
>>Custer, SD 57730
>>USA
>>earthenv@gwtc.net
>>http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Amy Parker
Lithonia, GA
Wade Blocker on fri 23 feb 01
Jimmy,
All you need to buy are two commercial glazes, one gloss and one matt. Then
add some stains to them for the colors you want.Generally 5 to 7 % of a
stain to 100 grams of glaze.For opaque glazes add 3 to 5% of an opacifier,
eg.opax or ultrox, or 3% of tin oxide. Hope this helps. Mia in overcast
ABQ
Jimmy Greene on fri 23 feb 01
Greetings
I'm short on room and equipment and a test kiln for glaze mixing, & would
like some recommendations for good commercially available pre-mixed glazes.
I've recently received & applied some of "Georgies" GLW line of glazes (But
haven't had them fired as of yet). I'd like some glazes in solid colors
(Both gloss and matte) that are stable & don't migrate for general
application & for decorating scenes.
Websites are greatly appreciated, if available.
Thanx
John Hesselberth on fri 23 feb 01
Jimmy Greene wrote:
>I'm short on room and equipment and a test kiln for glaze mixing, & would
>like some recommendations for good commercially available pre-mixed glazes.
>
>I've recently received & applied some of "Georgies" GLW line of glazes (But
>haven't had them fired as of yet). I'd like some glazes in solid colors
>(Both gloss and matte) that are stable & don't migrate for general
>application & for decorating scenes.
Hi Jimmy,
I don't have any specific glazes to recommend because I don't use
commercial glazes. I do have one caution though. I have tested a number
of commercial glazes in the vinegar test. I find them remarkably
variable. Some seem quite good. Others are really terrible even though
they are labeled as being "food safe". I can draw the color right out of
some of them with a 3 day soak in vinegar. I'll be showing some of those
at my NCECA talk in March.
"The life so short, the craft so long to learn." Hippocrates, 5th cent.
B.C.
Andie Carpenter on sat 24 feb 01
John:
I posted a couple moths ago my results with tons of commercial cone 6 glazes. Let
me know if you can't find them in the archives -
: ) Andie Carpenter
andie@princessco.com
Lili Krakowski on mon 26 feb 01
Commercial glazes are only as "good" as the supplier. I have bought them
from NASCo, from Jack Wolfe, from Bailey (my current supplier, long m ay
they stay in business.
All glazes have ceerrtain rpoperties and these are achieved by what goes
into the melt. (All fettucine Alfredo has the same overarching
characteristis, because the basic ingredients are more or less the same.)
Get the catalogs; sometimes the manufacturer (viz. Spectrum) has her own
catalog; study and compare. Call up and see how they respond to "stupid
questions and silly problems." if they are not TOTALLY helpful and
TOTALLY friendly--call another.
By the way. Mr Wolfe himself in person told me--when I wanted a glaze
matching that on a set of cups a friend had bought at The Best Shop on
Fifth Avenue (NYC) and of which she had broken so many she wanted me to
replace --that that cadmium selenium glaze was not to be used with food,
especially acid foods like coffee. MY friend was not convinced so I
went to that shop and they said "Ah, Madame, we are so sorry, but that
glaze is not used anymore...."
Mr Wolfe was a gentleman; and a responsible, informative supplier.
Lili
Krakowski
Darla Heard on tue 1 jan 02
I did a clayart archive search on commercial glazes
5/6, and found two very informative posts from Andi,
but I thought I'd post my two cents as well.
I prefer 'reactive' type glazes..... my glaze coverage
technique needs more practice!
Opulence Blue Monday, Calico, Smoky Mountain are my
favorites. I mix only the amount that I'm going to
use immediately, so it doesn't settle, usually in 8
ounce amounts. I use a stick mixer. I also like
Antique Iron, but it looks best, for me, with clear
layered on top. The clear brings out the blues and
purples.
Galaxy, on the other hand comes out an ugly matt, for
me.
Laguna... Cappuccino. If the moon is right, the
liquid form comes out a really cool brown, with white
and blue cloudy "runs". (and boy, does it run!) The
dry version doesn't seem to come out. The inside of
the piece comes out really well, but the outside comes
out awful.
Spectrum...
I had a lady ask for Red Bowls. I tried, but failed.
Spectrum Bright Red comes out orange for me. (Tried
both light and dark stoneware.)
Texture plum. A cool purple (reminds me of teeny
boppers) but thin spots aren't so attractive. I love
the look of Textured Moonscape, on buff stoneware,
when the moon is right, but most of the time it
bubbles and pits terribly. On dark stoneware, it's
much, well, less attractive in color, although for
some reason, it doesn't bubble or pit on the dark?
Texture Kiwi and Textured Dark Cloud (Kiwi is more
green, and Dark Cloud is more dark blue). Cool color
on dark stoneware, but on light stoneware, well, no so
good.
I use commercial glazes, for several reasons.....
(space constraints as well as the need to focus my
limited time on learning to throw before moving on to
the next step.)
Does anyone have a favorite commercial glaze that
they'd suggest to me? Or a disaster that I should
stay away from?
Darla
(If you see someone lost, at NCECA, that might be me.
I'm not quite ready to attend - I've only been
attempting to throw for less than two years - but
since it's less than 50 miles away, I'd be an idiot to
not try! Besides, I asked for the week off, and my
leave request was approved! I even asked early
enough, that my kids will only have to have two subs!)
OH>> before I forget! My husband bought me a brand
new Thomas Stuart Elite, and my teenaged son bought me
a GriffenGrip for Christmas. Aren't they the
greatest! I've had a busy winter break, and haven't
been able to throw as much as I'd have liked over the
last ten days, but I get to throw all afternoon today!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
Snail Scott on wed 23 jan 02
At 10:58 AM 1/23/02 -0600, Kate wrote:
>(sorry, I'm still doing commercial glazes, I'm SUCH a baby!)
Phooey! Commercial glazes are a tool, just like a wheel
or a rib or processed clays.
There are many good reasons to make one's own glazes,
including reduced cost and the opportunity to develop
the most suitable glaze for your work instead of
settling for what's available. For a production potter,
a personal glaze can become like a trademark, labeling
their work at a glance and helping create a unique
identity for their product line.
But, not everyone uses enough glaze for the cost to
become a big issue. If you produce dozens of objects
a day and glaze all surfaces, the cost of glaze becomes
a large part of your expenses. I may work for a month
on one piece mainly surfaced in bare clay that gets 10
square inches of glaze, so the cost of the glaze itself
is almost negligible. I seldom use the same glaze
repeatedly, so creating a glaze from scratch, checking
recipes, testing and modifying, may not be a good use
of my time, especially if I can open a jar that will
do the job just fine. I do have a few glazes that I
make from scratch (from other people's recipes, mostly)
because I needed an effect that I couldn't buy, but if
I could have just paid a few bucks for a jar of the
same, I probably would have done it. Glazes do not
contribute enough toward the particular character of
my work for me to invest much effort in developing
them.
If your work would be better served by homemade or
even original glazes, you should make the effort,
for the betterment of your work or business.
But, if a commerical product serves your needs
perfectly well, I see no moral failing in using such
a convenient tool.
-Snail
Jennifer Buckner on mon 18 mar 02
I'm a novice at clay and am mixing my first batch of commercial
glazes. I've followed the directions on the bags of glaze powder to mix it
1:1 by weight with water, and then put the resulting mixture through an 80
mesh sieve. However, I'm finding a *lot* of almost granular residue at the
bottom of the sieve when the liquid has drained through. Should I be
pressing all this "sludge" through the mesh? Should I throw it
out? Should I be letting the mixture sit overnight before straining it in
the hope that more of the solids will be dissolved? Can anyone give me
some advice?
Jennifer
Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@pgtv.net
chris clarke on mon 18 mar 02
Jennifer,
Let it sit over night (I believe it's called slaking), and push all that =
crap through. You need all of it. Use a spatula or nylon brush, =
something that won't hurt your screen.
chris =20
temecula, california
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
Colleen Young on mon 18 mar 02
Hi Jennifer - Don't worry, and yes, push the sludge through the seive, and
then seive it again. Some glazes tend to settle a little in the bottom of
the pail, and you have to stir well before applying - even stirring between
pots. I have never used already prepared glazes so I really can't advise
you on that: if a glaze tends to settle I add 2% bentonite, but I don't
know if you can do that with a prepared glaze. Why don't you ask Clayart -
you will probably get at least l0 answers. My "partner" in the Mug
Exchange offered to sent a digital picture of my mug to Chris for the
website, so I naturally accepted the offer. She also sent me a copy, which
came sidewise!! TTYL. C.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Buckner
To:
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 2:26 PM
Subject: commercial glazes
> I'm a novice at clay and am mixing my first batch of commercial
> glazes. I've followed the directions on the bags of glaze powder to mix
it
> 1:1 by weight with water, and then put the resulting mixture through an 80
> mesh sieve. However, I'm finding a *lot* of almost granular residue at
the
> bottom of the sieve when the liquid has drained through. Should I be
> pressing all this "sludge" through the mesh? Should I throw it
> out? Should I be letting the mixture sit overnight before straining it in
> the hope that more of the solids will be dissolved? Can anyone give me
> some advice?
>
> Jennifer
>
> Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@pgtv.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Celia Littlecreek on tue 19 mar 02
snip>I'm a novice at clay and am mixing my first batch of commercial
> glazes.
Whatever you have left in the bottom of the sieve, take out, add a little
glaze, run through your blender, then resieve the whole thing again.
Jennifer Buckner on thu 21 mar 02
Thanks to all the generous people who responded to my query about how to
mix commercial glazes. I've taken all the advice and now let the unsieved
mixture sit for some time before doing anything (this helps a lot), I
"help" the residue through the sieve with a rubber spatula, just swirling
it around on the sieve's surface, not forcing it, I scrape the resulting
very thick liquid that hangs onto the underside of the sieve into the
receptacle, and now, thanks to Logan's post, I'll reserve a little of the
water to spray the remaining particles through.
Thanks again for taking the time to help a novice.
Jennifer
Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@pgtv.net
mitziart2003 on fri 2 may 03
I'm just setting up my own pottery studio after 35 years as an art
teacher. I really don't want to get into mixing glazes yet and
would like opinions on some of the commercial glazes for both
low cone 05-06 and high fire cone 6.
I am familiar with Amaco, but would like more "stoneware
reduction" looking glazes even though I'm firing with an electric
kiln.
Scott Harrison on sat 3 may 03
Laguna has a wide selection of glazes and just came out with some new colors
and surfaces. One of the favorites in our school lab is their Power
Turquoise combined with Waterfall Brown from the book Mastering Cone Six
Glazes by John Hesselberth and Ron Roy. You can get Laguna cone six glazes
in dry form and the ones in the book are pretty easy to make up as well.
Scott Harrison
South Fork High School
Humboldt Redwoods
Oh look! It's still raining...
> From: mitziart2003
> Reply-To: Clayart
> Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 23:02:32 -0000
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: commercial glazes
>
> I'm just setting up my own pottery studio after 35 years as an art
> teacher. I really don't want to get into mixing glazes yet and
> would like opinions on some of the commercial glazes for both
> low cone 05-06 and high fire cone 6.
> I am familiar with Amaco, but would like more "stoneware
> reduction" looking glazes even though I'm firing with an electric
> kiln.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Mike Gordon on sat 3 may 03
Try Mayco and Duncan the both have glazes for both temps. Going up or
down a cone from the suggested cone is interesting also. Mike Gordon
Earl Brunner on sat 3 may 03
I can't remember the name of the company, but at NCECA this year there
was a company (I believe there were from New Mexico) that had some great
cone 6 glazes Even a fake shino that was the best I've ever seen. I was
impressed with their selection. Maybe someone else will remember the
contact information. (I lost the brochure that I had)
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
mitziart2003
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 4:03 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: commercial glazes
I'm just setting up my own pottery studio after 35 years as an art
teacher. I really don't want to get into mixing glazes yet and
would like opinions on some of the commercial glazes for both
low cone 05-06 and high fire cone 6.
I am familiar with Amaco, but would like more "stoneware
reduction" looking glazes even though I'm firing with an electric
kiln.
Elizabeth Priddy on sat 3 may 03
Get a sample pack of one pounders from Minnesota Clay. The stoneware glazes are great, easy to apply, stay in suspension well, and very reliable. Glaze range is easily from 5-7, so not too tricky. And they blend well. 1-800-clay-usa. The catalog is also online. I am not paid by them or business affiliated. Just a happy customer for 15 years or so. I just bought 12 of their low fire glazes for my kids program. They work without hassle, and the kids will not be disappointed.
mitziart2003 wrote:I'm just setting up my own pottery studio after 35 years as an art
teacher. I really don't want to get into mixing glazes yet and
would like opinions on some of the commercial glazes for both
low cone 05-06 and high fire cone 6.
I am familiar with Amaco, but would like more "stoneware
reduction" looking glazes even though I'm firing with an electric
kiln.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Elizabeth Priddy
www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Beaufort, NC
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Snail Scott on mon 5 may 03
At 09:01 AM 5/3/03 -0700, you wrote:
>I can't remember the name of the company, but at NCECA this year there
>was a company (I believe there were from New Mexico) that had some great
>cone 6 glazes Even a fake shino that was the best I've ever seen.
Don't know if it's the stuff you're referring to,
but Coyote (in Albuquerque) makes some nice glazes
and underglazes, by the same guy who created/
modified B-Mix clay. It's available directly
(I think) or through distributors like New Mexico
Clay and Santa Fe Clay.
-Snail
Tammy Clark on mon 5 may 03
L&R Specialties in Nixa MO has some looking glazes that I have used for
about 4 years. The oatmeal glaze has volcanic ash and is a beautiful brown.
The patterned Blue is my favorite. It has to be the Infamous Floating Blue.
They have a web site. I believe it is http://www.claydogs.com . They sell a
raku kiln that is advertised in Ceramics Monthly.
Tammy Clark
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Brunner
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: commercial glazes
> I can't remember the name of the company, but at NCECA this year there
> was a company (I believe there were from New Mexico) that had some great
> cone 6 glazes Even a fake shino that was the best I've ever seen. I was
> impressed with their selection. Maybe someone else will remember the
> contact information. (I lost the brochure that I had)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> mitziart2003
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 4:03 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: commercial glazes
>
> I'm just setting up my own pottery studio after 35 years as an art
> teacher. I really don't want to get into mixing glazes yet and
> would like opinions on some of the commercial glazes for both
> low cone 05-06 and high fire cone 6.
> I am familiar with Amaco, but would like more "stoneware
> reduction" looking glazes even though I'm firing with an electric
> kiln.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Brady Stout on tue 16 jan 07
I am new to the Clayart network so forgive me if this topic has been
covered before...does anyone know how I might be able to find the glaze
recipes and or manufacturer for the commercial glazes that are used on the
pottery/decorative ceramic vessels that are sold at Z-Gallerie and Pier
One Imports? I know it's sort of faux pas as a potter to use commercial
glazes, but the glazes are beautiful in my opinion, especially the deep
reds and aqua marines. I haven't been able to achieve these colors myself
with either Cone 10 reduction or Cone 5/6 oxidation. Most of the work is
made in China so I don't know how to go about finding the glaze recipes.
Can anyone help?
Lois Ruben Aronow on wed 17 jan 07
It's not a faux pas to use commercial glazes - let's get that out of the
way.
As far as the glazes used by a company, I'd bet everything that they are a
well-kept secret, as well as using materials that aren't available to you.
Even the stuff that Duncan makes here contains gums and other materials to
improve viscosity and shelf life.
I am also assuming that the ware in Pier 1 is earthenware.
If it's color you want, use stains. You don't say what you are firing to,
or what clay body you are using.
Why do so many people have an "ethical" problem with the use of stains?
Just curious.
>>>>
Lois Ruben Aronow Ceramics
232 Third Street - # B202A
Brooklyn, NY 11215
p: 917..561..2854
f: 718..246.0819
www.loisaronow.com
www.craftsofthedamned.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Brady Stout
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 6:48 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Commercial glazes
I am new to the Clayart network so forgive me if this topic has been covered
before...does anyone know how I might be able to find the glaze recipes and
or manufacturer for the commercial glazes that are used on the
pottery/decorative ceramic vessels that are sold at Z-Gallerie and Pier One
Imports? I know it's sort of faux pas as a potter to use commercial glazes,
but the glazes are beautiful in my opinion, especially the deep reds and
aqua marines. I haven't been able to achieve these colors myself with
either Cone 10 reduction or Cone 5/6 oxidation. Most of the work is made in
China so I don't know how to go about finding the glaze recipes.
Can anyone help?
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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