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cone 5-6 glazes

updated fri 3 jan 03

 

John Baisch on tue 25 jun 96

Hello All,

I have been experimenting with low fire glazes and
its time that I graduate to high fire..

I have two (2) questions

1) I have thrown some vessels with Soldate 60
cone10 clay. Does anyone in the group
know if I can get away with firing Sodate 60 to
cone 5-6 and it being stable enough for
conventional use.

2) I lost all the recipes I was saving in my
Eudora E-mail archives. If someone can provide
me with some good cone 5-6 recipes, I would be
a very happy camper..

I'm using a electric kiln
T.I.A.

JB
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~ John Baisch ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~ E-Mail: jbaisch@micron.net ~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Richard Burkett on wed 26 jun 96


John Baisch says:
> 2) I lost all the recipes I was saving in my
> Eudora E-mail archives. If someone can provide
> me with some good cone 5-6 recipes, I would be
> a very happy camper..

All the glaze recipes posted to ClayArt are available on the CeramicsWeb in
searchable database form. You can also download all of the recipes at once in
a variety of formats as a single file (actually not quite all at the moment -
but I'll update that later this summer). All of the recipes are in the
database now, however. Thanks as always to Rose Downs for her help in
formatting all these hundreds of recipes.

Richard Burkett -
School of Art, Design, & Art History, SDSU, San Diego, CA 92182-4805
E-mail: richard.burkett@sdsu.edu <-> Voice mail: (619) 594-6201

Michelle H. Lowe on wed 26 jun 96

At 6:06 PM 6/25/96 -0400, John Baisch wrote:
> 2) I lost all the recipes I was saving in my
> Eudora E-mail archives. If someone can provide
> me with some good cone 5-6 recipes, I would be
> a very happy camper..
>
> I'm using a electric kiln

John, am forwarding LOTS of archived glazes at this temp/atmosphere :)

there are a few other temps/atmosphere's sprinkled in but most is cone 5-6
oxidation.

Michelle

Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
____ |
-\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>

Michelle H. Lowe on thu 27 jun 96

Hi folks,

I meant to post privately to John Baisch yesterday about sending ten posts
FULL of glaze recipes, but mistakenly sent it to the list. A few people
have contacted me about sending them the recipe collection as well, so I
thought I would put out an offer to anyone else who is interested in
getting a copy of these glazes. I am happy to share these (they were all
from clayart posts originally) but please e-mail me your request PRIVATELY
as I am not able to keep up on all the clayart mail at this time. E-mail
addresses at the bottom of this post, either one works.

Thanks,
Mishy


Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
____ |
-\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>

joan woodward on sun 29 dec 02


Thanks so much, John and Charles, for your superquick responses to my queries. To clarify re. majolica: I did try the recipe in Ron and John's book, and the Easy Strokes blurred. John, when you say to drop down as fast as possible from peak, is soaking at peak and/or 100 degrees below still a good idea? It seems to help eliminate pin holes.

Thanks.

Joan



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John Hesselberth on mon 30 dec 02


Hi Joan,

Yes I always soak 15-20 minutes. I'm just coming to believe you can also
soak too long. Glazes definitely benefit from some minimum amount of
time at/near peak temperature. The question rolling around in my head is
whether there is also a maximum where they stop benefiting and do the
cones always show that by indicting an overfire.

Regards,

John
On Sunday, December 29, 2002, at 10:38 PM, joan woodward wrote:

> John, when you say to drop down as fast as possible from peak, is
> soaking at peak and/or 100 degrees below still a good idea? It seems
> to help eliminate pin holes.
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com

Ron Roy on thu 2 jan 03


Hi Joan,

The colours on the Majolica in our book are simply stains mixed with some
clear glaze - the Mag glaze without the Zircopax. - see our notes on the
same page as the glaze. Many commercial colours are made to try and cover a
broad range of end temperatures - no doubt that is the explanation of why
they blurred. Mixing the stains with a food safe glaze is also a better way
to prevent leaching by the way - but we still don't recommend over glazes
on the insides of ware - unless you have them lab tested.

Soaking does often eliminate pinholes but in - your case for instance - it
can also promote blurring. I am going to guess you will still get blurring
with the combination you are using even if you don't soak - perhaps less
thats all.

All this means is - if you are going to soak or not - you will need to
adjust your glazes to perform well for whatever situation.

I would think you would be better off using stains and glaze - cheaper in
the long run, more versatile and you can make adjustments as needed.

RR


>Thanks so much, John and Charles, for your superquick responses to my
>queries. To clarify re. majolica: I did try the recipe in Ron and John's
>book, and the Easy Strokes blurred. John, when you say to drop down as
>fast as possible from peak, is soaking at peak and/or 100 degrees below
>still a good idea? It seems to help eliminate pin holes.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Joan

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513