Maridel Crawford-Brown on thu 29 aug 96
Does anyone have a couple or so reliable Cone 6 glaze recipes suitable for
use in classes they could share? Something foolproof and simple?
TYIA
Maridel
Elisabeth Maurland on thu 25 sep 03
I wonder if anyone has one good source of cone 6 glaze recipes to recommend.
I've been using a clear, glossy glaze for 12 years, and decorating every
inch of my white stoneware clay with colorful slips to make it look less
boring than just the white, oxidation, clay body with shiny glaze on. But
now I think I would like some help from an interesting glaze.
But I have no time to formulate my own. I know of Ron Roy and John
Hesselberth's book, and I believe it's about formulating glazes. Does it
have any that are already formulated? Recipes?
I know people have been talking about cone 6 glazes here lately, but those
messages have been deleted along with everything else, so I apologize if
this question (with answer) has already come up.
Elisabeth
Alisa Clausen on thu 25 sep 03
Dear Elisabeth,
Please do not be offended by this, but however, I will say what I mean. I
believe you have no time because you have no interest yet in formulating
glazes. That is probably because you have not explored glaze materials yet
and are not aware of the vast and exciting areas of our craft. I have no
time either!, but somehow there is time, admittedly at strange hours, to
experiment with glazes. It is one of my personal fires and therefore it
finds a place in my daily life.
You can look up the Clayart archives, address at the bottom of every
posting. If you search Glaze tests for, or just cone 6, or glaze you will
find more glaze recipes than I think you had dreamed of. If you use a
search engine like Google, and search for a word like Ceramics or glaze or
cone 6 you will again find a bounty.
Once you find boundless recipes you are still not home free. You need to
test them, and see how they fit your clay body, how they look with local
materials and your firing ramp and atmosphere. Testing glazes from recipes
is a close second cousin to formulating glazes. Once you have tested enough
recipes given to you, and examine both good and failed resutls, you will get
interested in learning your materials and most probably go on to formulating
reicpes. It is a natural course of things. Jump in, there is a lot of gain
waiting for you to grasp on to.
good luck and regards from Alisa in Denmark
.> But I have no time to formulate my own. I know of Ron Roy and John
> Hesselberth's book, and I believe it's about formulating glazes. Does it
> have any that are already formulated? Recipes?
>
> I
Steve Slatin on thu 25 sep 03
Elisabeth --
I just got a copy of the John 'n' Ron book, and would recommend it
highly.
There are quite a few 'recipes,' there are sufficient technical
descriptions
Of what things are and how they work, there are warnings about what
WON'T work, there are ideas for other directions to go in making your
own glaze recipes, and there are some gorgeous photographs. If you want
the background on what makes particular glaze recipes work, it has
sufficient information -- if you don't want it, it's segregated so you
can jump over it easily (as some do the whaling chapters in Moby Dick).
I got my copy from Axner's and it came inscribed by the authors (an
unexpected bonus).
My previous reference work was Rhodes' Clay and Glazes for the Potter --
much more technical, sometimes excessively so. From my point of view,
since John and Ron have already worked out many proportions that work
reliably and safely at cone six, I no longer need the level of detail in
Clay and Glazes. On the other hand, if you don't know to what cone you
will fire, and you're willing to do the calculations, Rhodes does show
charts for things like the molecular equivalents of different fluxes
necessary to vitrify properly at different maturing temperatures.
If you want to search the archives for old messages, you can do so by
topic at http://www.potters.org/categories.htm or follow the link to
'SEARCH.'
Best wishes -- Steve S
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Elisabeth
Maurland
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 9:07 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Cone 6 glaze recipes?
I wonder if anyone has one good source of cone 6 glaze recipes to
recommend.
I've been using a clear, glossy glaze for 12 years, and decorating every
inch of my white stoneware clay with colorful slips to make it look less
boring than just the white, oxidation, clay body with shiny glaze on.
But
now I think I would like some help from an interesting glaze.
But I have no time to formulate my own. I know of Ron Roy and John
Hesselberth's book, and I believe it's about formulating glazes. Does it
have any that are already formulated? Recipes?
I know people have been talking about cone 6 glazes here lately, but
those
messages have been deleted along with everything else, so I apologize if
this question (with answer) has already come up.
Elisabeth
Elisabeth Maurland on thu 25 sep 03
Hi Alisa, fellow Scandinavian,
Thank you for your response.
You are probably right that I don't have the interest it takes to look into
learning how to formulate new glazes. Even though I have a Master's in art,
emphasis in ceramics, I never learned how to do that. I have done a lot of
testing with others' recipes, which was fun, but I never made one of my own,
except when I tried to adjust a clear glaze to fit my body - I did 43 tests
and none of them worked. And then I found a three-ingredient glaze that has
served me well for 12 years without problems. Obviously I don't know how to
formulate my own.
My focus is and has been on slip decorating my pots, and it's so time
consuming, and I have to work 80-90 hour weeks just to get enough pots for
my art fairs. When the day is over, I'm just too tired to experiment with
anything that isn't going to pay any bills. I'm starting to feel burned out.
Maybe just one new glaze will cheer me up a little.
I feel guilty for sitting here instead of at my wheel, especially after
complaining about how little time I have, but I will try a few tests late at
night one of these days.
Elisabeth
> From: Alisa Clausen
> Reply-To: Clayart
> Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 20:19:25 +0200
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Cone 6 glaze recipes?
>
> Dear Elisabeth,
> Please do not be offended by this, but however, I will say what I mean. I
> believe you have no time because you have no interest yet in formulating
> glazes. That is probably because you have not explored glaze materials yet
> and are not aware of the vast and exciting areas of our craft. I have no
> time either!, but somehow there is time, admittedly at strange hours, to
> experiment with glazes. It is one of my personal fires and therefore it
> finds a place in my daily life.
>
> You can look up the Clayart archives, address at the bottom of every
> posting. If you search Glaze tests for, or just cone 6, or glaze you will
> find more glaze recipes than I think you had dreamed of. If you use a
> search engine like Google, and search for a word like Ceramics or glaze or
> cone 6 you will again find a bounty.
>
> Once you find boundless recipes you are still not home free. You need to
> test them, and see how they fit your clay body, how they look with local
> materials and your firing ramp and atmosphere. Testing glazes from recipes
> is a close second cousin to formulating glazes. Once you have tested enough
> recipes given to you, and examine both good and failed resutls, you will get
> interested in learning your materials and most probably go on to formulating
> reicpes. It is a natural course of things. Jump in, there is a lot of gain
> waiting for you to grasp on to.
>
> good luck and regards from Alisa in Denmark
>
> .> But I have no time to formulate my own. I know of Ron Roy and John
>> Hesselberth's book, and I believe it's about formulating glazes. Does it
>> have any that are already formulated? Recipes?
>>
>> I
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Mert & Holly Kilpatrick on thu 25 sep 03
Elizabeth,
Yes, there are quite a few glaze recipes in John's book, it is well worth
the money. Another ^6 book is Michael Bailey's Cone 6 Glazes. Below are
some of the sources of Cone 6 Glazes online:
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/stableglazes.html
http://www.utpb.edu/courses/arts4365/formulae/glaze/functional.htm
http://www.digitalfire.ab.ca/cermat/education/index.php?PHPSESSID=5704eafb62
cd168c38373e7bd42b448d&PHPSESSID=5704eafb62cd168c38373e7bd42b448d
http://members.aol.com/goodrichdn/
http://digitalfire.com/gerstleyborate/index.html
http://www.jqjacobs.net/art/glazes.html
http://www.cclay.com/glazes.htm
http://www.dinoclay.com/software/glzchem.html
http://www.bigvase.com/glaze
I hope none of these are out of date.
Holly
East Bangor, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elisabeth Maurland"
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 12:06 PM
> I wonder if anyone has one good source of cone 6 glaze recipes to
recommend.
pikeur69 on thu 25 sep 03
> I wonder if anyone has one good source of cone 6 glaze recipes to
recommend.
Elizabeth, I highly recommend Michael Bailey's Glazes Cone 6 which
has loads of glaze recipies for oxidation in it, and numerous photos
of test tiles, and VERY pedagogic explanations as to why glaze
recipies are as they are, and what changes with the ingredients.
Lovely book, well written, AND inexpensive. Only good ingredients so
there's no "mixed wood ash" or "ghastley borate" in there.
He has a spanking iron orange in there which I'm still striving to
work in my kiln, but that particular on illudes me... The rest is
great.
Good Luck
Theresa in Sweden
Alisa Clausen on fri 26 sep 03
Dear Elizabeth,
I have adopted Scandinavia! I am married to a great Dane and we live in
Aabenraa.
Now that you have a lot of sources for glaze recipes (overwhelming, isn't
it?!), I thought about one more thing.
Your tried and true 3 part transparent glaze serves you well. It is not
broken so don't change it as they say. Well, do not change it right away.
You would not want to test some new glazes, have a successful one and then
glaze a lot of work with it right away. As I have found time after time, a
small test that is successful, does not mean the big batch will be as
successful. This because the small tests are usually much more precise than
when you mix up 5000 gm.
I think you could easily use your 3 part glaze and begin by simply coloring
it. Oxides alone, mixed or mixed with an opacifier can give a broad range
of results. In this beginning, you still have your base that you know and
know fits your body, but you can jazz it up with colorants. Ron and John
are not fans of simple glazes like that as Ron told me, because if you have
one material that dominates the recipe that is variable, your batches will
also vary. But as you say, it has served you for 12 years.
If your base is something like 50 Gerstely Borate, 30 silica and 20 Kaolin,
you will probably need to find a new base, due to the unavailability of G.B.
That could mean right there you are reformulating your glaze by substituting
the G.B. with a G.B. substitute/replacement. I use a Frit instead of G.B.
There are two schools on this. Reformulating the glaze so that the chemical
analysis of the new glaze is as a close to as possible to the original
glaze.(of course we will assume that it looks and acts like the old glaze as
well.) Or making a glaze that looks and melts and fits your glaze body
similar to the old glaze, but chemically different. Thus a different glaze,
but one that suits your puropose. I use the second method because I do
not have a good enough grasp on segers or glaze calculation programs.
However, with Ian Currie living in my house right now this could
dramitically improve! I am a practical type, I need to test to and look
and examine.
Toss out the guilt. There is a place and time for everything. The work we
put in is enormous and anyone who works in clay, does not need to explain to
another ceramist, why we do it. We are perhaps interested in how we do it,
and Clayart is a great source for that information.
again, good luck,
Alisa in Denmark
PS
Ian arrived a few days ago, very late due to a power outage here the very
day, rather hour, he landed in Copenhagen. But he is here and tomorrow we
have the workshop. It is a wonderful time and I keep thinking how lucky I
am to have this visit.
Burness Speakman on fri 26 sep 03
Gosh, think what you could do if you glaze decorated your pots as you did
with the slip. I bought John and Rons book after several years of no-ing,
then got it and immediately disliked it, mixed up several of the bases and
progressed to glazing. Every glaze has fit so far, better than ever before,
even though I did not like how the colors turned out. But I think that was
my fault and may get to love them after all.
Elisabeth Maurland on fri 26 sep 03
I want to thank those of you who sent great responses to my cone 6 query.
I'll try to sum up what I'm doing.
I do know a little bit about glazing. After all, I went to college and grad
school for ceramics and have been in this for 19 years. But I didn't learn
how to "compute" my own recipes, so I need to use others'. I don't feel
guilty about that - in grad school I was the only one even mixing my own,
the others used commercial glazes, which I have no problem with, I just like
to "cook from scratch". Another thing I didn't learn was the difference
between "formulating" and "calculating". I think I want to "formulate" (mix
from recipe), not "calculate" (invent my own)?
I know I have to not only make tests (I have lots of test tiles ready to
go), and I also know better than to glaze a whole batch after just one good
tile.
I don't want to change my pots. I have developed a style and a technique
that works for me - it involves carving, wax resist, and inlay, and that
only works on greenware. I want to continue to use the clear glaze, even
though it's mostly gerstley borate. I discovered Clayart a couple of years
ago when I was looking for substitutes for g.b. and got many great responses
then, but when I started getting substitutes to try, I discovered that my
clay company had got a new batch of g.b., so so far I have enough. For now.
But I saved the ideas for when they do run out.
But what I need a new glaze for, is for insides, and maybe for when I want a
simpler design on a pot, without having to paint the rest of it with a slip
(dipping them in slip has so far proved problematic, and a glaze would look
more interesting anyway). Since my current colors and designs are something
I will keep doing, I need glazes that will compliment them, so photographs
are a great help. That, and the fact that I don't like staring at computer
screens/surfing, leads me to look for a book, rather than on the Internet.
That's why I asked for ONE good source of cone 6 glazes, since I can't
afford many books. But it looks like both Ron/John and Michael Bailey will
be on my wish list. Thanks to those of you who confirmed/suggested this.
I have thought of adding oxides to my clear glaze, or Mason stains, but I
don't know if that will make it much more interesting than the same glaze on
top of a slip. Besides, I would like to try totally different recipes -
something new - a shot in the arm - without changing my style.
I hope I don't sound testy - that's the last thing I want to sound like,
because I'm truly appreciative of all the information and the time everyone
took to write to me. I just wanted to explain that I am a professional
potter who has no one to subsidize me (was that the word that was used in a
recent thread?), and the time I had in grad school to experiment is sorely
missed. When the "interest" isn't there, it's because I'm exhausted and I
want to go home to my brand new husband.
Thanks again, and now I will go back to my wheel.
Elisabeth
Snail Scott on fri 26 sep 03
At 08:02 AM 9/26/03 +0200, you wrote:
>As I have found time after time, a
>small test that is successful, does not mean the big batch will be as
>successful. This because the small tests are usually much more precise than
>when you mix up 5000 gm.
I always figured the discrepancy was because the 5000 gram
batch was MORE accurate. Easier to weigh, say, .5% of cobalt
when the amount is going to be 25 grams, and a 1/4 gram error
is only 1% of that material instead of 50%.
Doing 100 gram tests means that if you get a great test, it
might be due to a small measuring error that you'll never
reconstruct. Starting with 100 gram tests is great, but if
the results are promising, I'd try 500 or 1000 grams before
making a bucket-full.
-Snail
Ababi on fri 26 sep 03
I totally agree with Alisa
Do you want my rational?
Read her letter again!
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Alisa
Clausen
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 8:19 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Cone 6 glaze recipes?
Dear Elisabeth,
Please do not be offended by this, but however, I will say what I mean.
I
believe you have no time because you have no interest yet in formulating
glazes. That is probably because you have not explored glaze materials
yet
and are not aware of the vast and exciting areas of our craft. I have
no
time either!, but somehow there is time, admittedly at strange hours, to
experiment with glazes. It is one of my personal fires and therefore it
finds a place in my daily life.
You can look up the Clayart archives, address at the bottom of every
posting. If you search Glaze tests for, or just cone 6, or glaze you
will
find more glaze recipes than I think you had dreamed of. If you use a
search engine like Google, and search for a word like Ceramics or glaze
or
cone 6 you will again find a bounty.
Once you find boundless recipes you are still not home free. You need
to
test them, and see how they fit your clay body, how they look with local
materials and your firing ramp and atmosphere. Testing glazes from
recipes
is a close second cousin to formulating glazes. Once you have tested
enough
recipes given to you, and examine both good and failed resutls, you will
get
interested in learning your materials and most probably go on to
formulating
reicpes. It is a natural course of things. Jump in, there is a lot of
gain
waiting for you to grasp on to.
good luck and regards from Alisa in Denmark
Ababi on sat 27 sep 03
In this generous list, we feel sometimes that new people come and grab:
"Give me this give me that". We spend long time on testing a lot of
money, and help each others, with no cost. This was the reason for our
collective anger.
However you wrote this letter, so long I believe from the bottom of your
heart, so we can start again
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Elisabeth
Maurland
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 6:04 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Cone 6 glaze recipes?
I want to thank those of you who sent great responses to my cone 6
query.
I'll try to sum up what I'm doing.
I do know a little bit about glazing. After all, I went to college and
grad
school for ceramics and have been in this for 19 years. But I didn't
learn
how to "compute" my own recipes, so I need to use others'. I don't feel
guilty about that - in grad school I was the only one even mixing my
own,
the others used commercial glazes, which I have no problem with, I just
like
to "cook from scratch". Another thing I didn't learn was the difference
between "formulating" and "calculating". I think I want to "formulate"
(mix
from recipe), not "calculate" (invent my own)?
I know I have to not only make tests (I have lots of test tiles ready to
go), and I also know better than to glaze a whole batch after just one
good
tile.
I don't want to change my pots. I have developed a style and a technique
that works for me - it involves carving, wax resist, and inlay, and that
only works on greenware. I want to continue to use the clear glaze, even
though it's mostly gerstley borate. I discovered Clayart a couple of
years
ago when I was looking for substitutes for g.b. and got many great
responses
then, but when I started getting substitutes to try, I discovered that
my
clay company had got a new batch of g.b., so so far I have enough. For
now.
But I saved the ideas for when they do run out.
But what I need a new glaze for, is for insides, and maybe for when I
want a
simpler design on a pot, without having to paint the rest of it with a
slip
(dipping them in slip has so far proved problematic, and a glaze would
look
more interesting anyway). Since my current colors and designs are
something
I will keep doing, I need glazes that will compliment them, so
photographs
are a great help. That, and the fact that I don't like staring at
computer
screens/surfing, leads me to look for a book, rather than on the
Internet.
That's why I asked for ONE good source of cone 6 glazes, since I can't
afford many books. But it looks like both Ron/John and Michael Bailey
will
be on my wish list. Thanks to those of you who confirmed/suggested this.
I have thought of adding oxides to my clear glaze, or Mason stains, but
I
don't know if that will make it much more interesting than the same
glaze on
top of a slip. Besides, I would like to try totally different recipes -
something new - a shot in the arm - without changing my style.
I hope I don't sound testy - that's the last thing I want to sound like,
because I'm truly appreciative of all the information and the time
everyone
took to write to me. I just wanted to explain that I am a professional
potter who has no one to subsidize me (was that the word that was used
in a
recent thread?), and the time I had in grad school to experiment is
sorely
missed. When the "interest" isn't there, it's because I'm exhausted and
I
want to go home to my brand new husband.
Thanks again, and now I will go back to my wheel.
Elisabeth
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Alisa Clausen on sat 27 sep 03
Dear Snail.
Measuring 5 x .20gm. is easier to do, but does not necessarily to be more
accurate. If the scale is accurate and the practice, well, I suppose I hit
it right in the test. However, when I mix the bigger batch, I believe that
I am less accurate. I do not bang out the measuring cup so well, or wipe
the spoon as well, or in general, go as carefully as when I make a test.
The good tests that became bad batches, looked similar to the photos I had
seen or looked like the what they were named for. The bigger batches looked
different in a dissappointing way. I think good test and bad batch can
happend for a multitude of reasons, including both of our reasons. It would
be interesting to hear other's ideas on this.
In any case, when I get a test I want to work with further, I usually mix up
300 gm. and then if I like what that has become through glazing actual ware,
I mix up 1000 gm. if it is decorative and 4000 gm if it is going to become a
studio glaze.
regards from Alisa in Denmark
I feel tired and happy, Ian Currie still here. We finished the first day's
workshop today.
It is a great experience overall.
>
> I always figured the discrepancy was because the 5000 gram
> batch was MORE accurate. Easier to weigh, say, .5% of cobalt
> when the amount is going to be 25 grams, and a 1/4 gram error
> is only 1% of that material instead of 50%.
>
> Doing 100 gram tests means that if you get a great test, it
> might be due to a small measuring error that you'll never
> reconstruct. Starting with 100 gram tests is great, but if
> the results are promising, I'd try 500 or 1000 grams before
> making a bucket-full.
>
> -Snail
>
Ron Roy on sun 28 sep 03
I too believe the smaller the test the less accuracy - I used to say at
least 200 grams but now usually say 500 - AND CHECK THE SCALE BEFORE YOU
START!
Most potters don't pay enough attention to their scales - treat them
roughly and don't protect them from dust when stored.
For small amounts -
Always balance you scale before using it.
Test it regularly with a known weight - several times to see if sticking is
a problem.
Always vibrate it when weighing to make sure it is free swinging. - a few
taps on the table with your scoop or spoon will work.
Always look at the numbers from the same angle - even when mixing small amounts.
When weighing small amounts - like cobalt oxide or carbonate - weigh out 4
times what you need - make a line of the powder and divide it into 4 - a
more accurate way for small amounts.
RR
>>As I have found time after time, a
>>small test that is successful, does not mean the big batch will be as
>>successful. This because the small tests are usually much more precise than
>>when you mix up 5000 gm.
>
>
>I always figured the discrepancy was because the 5000 gram
>batch was MORE accurate. Easier to weigh, say, .5% of cobalt
>when the amount is going to be 25 grams, and a 1/4 gram error
>is only 1% of that material instead of 50%.
>
>Doing 100 gram tests means that if you get a great test, it
>might be due to a small measuring error that you'll never
>reconstruct. Starting with 100 gram tests is great, but if
>the results are promising, I'd try 500 or 1000 grams before
>making a bucket-full.
>
> -Snail
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
| |
|
