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cone problems

updated thu 4 mar 04

 

Kirby Benson on mon 23 dec 96

Dear Clayarters,

I have recently run into a problem that I have never encountered before -
perhaps someone out there can shed some light on it.

I have some cone 8's and 9's that are several years old. I just purchased
some cone 7's (these are all Orton large cones) and made up pats with cone
7, 8 and 9 (I fire cone 8R flat with 9's about 1 or 2 o'clock). The cone
7's remained standing and prevented the 8's from going down which fell and
sagged against them. Has the age of the 8's and 9's prevented an accurate
reading - or is it possible the new 7's are faulty? Has anyone else had
this problem?

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

Kirby Benson
Las Cruces, NM
kbenson@zianet.com

C Pike on mon 30 dec 96


Re: Kirby Benson
Subject: Cone Problems

I have had a similar problem with cones not bending or bending backwards.
Orton Cone 8, 9,10's and 07's for bisquing all in a gas kiln. It has happened
with old cones but also with boxes recently purchased.
Connie

----------------------
Bob & Connie Pike pikec@cadvision.com
1303 10th Ave SE High River,Alberta T1V 1L4 Canada (403-652-5255)
----------------------

Hertz Pottery on tue 31 dec 96

I missed the first part of this dicussion but...
Ive had a problem with ^06 cones in anelectric kiln, they dont seem to bend
when they melt until they turn to liquid at about ^6 or 7. I rigged a rubber
band to pull up on the kilnsetter claw to help them bend. these cones are
orton small.Is someone else having a similar problem?

Erik
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>Re: Kirby Benson
>Subject: Cone Problems
>
>I have had a similar problem with cones not bending or bending backwards.
>Orton Cone 8, 9,10's and 07's for bisquing all in a gas kiln. It has happened
>with old cones but also with boxes recently purchased.
>Connie
>
>----------------------
>Bob & Connie Pike pikec@cadvision.com
>1303 10th Ave SE High River,Alberta T1V 1L4 Canada (403-652-5255)
>----------------------
>
>
erik hertz

medelman@facstaff.wisc.edu on tue 31 dec 96

My Clayart Digest today had a post from Bob and Connie Pike responding to
one by Kirby Benson that I must have missed. I do scan my digest with a
heavy finger on the DOWN arrow.

But I do have a suggestion. Phone Orton's 800 no. and ask for Dale Fronk,
whose extension is 22. The company no. is 1-800-999-5442.

He will know the answer to all the antics of old or currently sold cones.

I too had cones 6 and 7 from the "good old days" because of a 10 or 12 yr.
stint of working only low-fire.
Mixed in with new cones 4 and or 5, I would get outrageous results,
especially if the temperature had sunk even a few degrees after kiln sitter
turned it off, and before I raised the lever, set it on LO for a soak. That
was enough to freeze the old white cones 6 and 7 so that they would never
bend. Or in another case, the cones 7 were in a pool while new cones 6
were still like sentinels. Mr. Fronk pretty much told me to toss the old
ones, but if I had had a consistent series of numbers, and didn't fool
around with a soak, I might have had no trouble.

Bacia Edelman Madison, WI

Richard Ramirez on tue 31 dec 96

Hello, just read your post on cone problem in ^06 electric firing. Are you
aware that to get a good bend on your small cones, you need to set them
correctly on the sitter?
By this I mean you have to make sure your cones are set properly. Check
carefully to make sure you have the rough edge of one the edges of the cone
placed up in the cone sitter, with only the rough side up do the cones bend
properly. Check the directions on the cone box. Hope this helps.
Good luck, let me (us) know if that does the trick.
R12396 soon to be R12397,from Sacto ,Ca.

LBCLAY@aol.com on thu 2 jan 97

I've recently had problems with my large cone 08 in my gas firings...they
bend the opposite way ...onto my shelf and not into the little claypool i
made....This has never happend to me before and after having it happen i've
paid very close attention to how i position the cone in my clay pack and it
still happened...I was told that it could be the way the flame is hitting the
cone...but,,,the cone is in the back of the kiln,,and my flame shoots to the
front...so I still don't know if it's a defect in the cones or
what....anyway,,i've solved the problem,,,I no longer use 08 in my firings
and go into reduction when the temperature reads 1600 on my pyrometer....
Linda in Vermont

Earl Krueger on tue 2 mar 04


>> In the last few bisque firings I have
>> done, the cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It has been
>> melting or fusing in a straight position so that it does not lower the
>> arm and release the switch.

Hmmm? If the cone has been melting but is not bending
I might suspect that the arm is not putting any pressure
on the cone to cause it to bend when it gets soft.

Have you checked to ensure that the arm moves freely?
Not only when the kiln is cold but also when it's hot.

Without a cone in the kiln sitter is the weight of the arm
sufficient to trip the mechanism or does it just hang in
mid-air?

Then again you might have a box of strange cones.

Earl K...
Bothell, WA, USA

Weiland, Jeff on tue 2 mar 04


To all the know-it-alls out there; is there such a thing as cones =
getting old? Here is the deal. In the last few bisque firings I have =
done, the cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It has been =
melting or fusing in a straight position so that it does not lower the =
arm and release the switch. I have been over-firing the bisque ware and =
having to shut off the kiln manually. The small cone melts to the two =
metal pins that hold it in place. I adjusted the metal plate on the trip =
switch once but that produced not real change in the sticky-cone =
situation. Would it help to sand down the pins to eliminate the build up =
of oxidation?

HELP!!

Jeff Weiland
Greenfield-Central High School
810 North Broadway
Greenfield, Indiana 46140
317-462-9211
jweiland@gcsc.k12.in.us

Arnold Howard on tue 2 mar 04


Jeff, age alone shouldn't affect the cones. But you might have a bad batch.

Have you tried coating the cone supports with kiln wash? That should prevent
the cones from sticking to the supports.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net

From: "Weiland, Jeff"
To all the know-it-alls out there; is there such a thing as cones getting
old? Here is the deal. In the last few bisque firings I have done, the
cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It has been melting or fusing
in a straight position so that it does not lower the arm and release the
switch. I have been over-firing the bisque ware and having to shut off the
kiln manually. The small cone melts to the two metal pins that hold it in
place.
Jeff Weiland

william schran on tue 2 mar 04


Jeff wrote:> I have been over-firing the bisque ware and having to
shut off the kiln manually. The small cone melts to the two metal
pins that hold it in place. I adjusted the metal plate on the trip
switch once but that produced not real change in the sticky-cone
situation. Would it help to sand down the pins to eliminate the build
up of oxidation?<

You can remove all melted material from the metal parts then coat
them with kiln wash.

You say you adjusted the metal plate. Did you use the little metal
disc that fits over the cone holders and rod? You need to do this to
get proper setting. You also need to check the rod itself. After
time, it deteriorates from the heat and becomes thinner or sometimes
bends slightly - if so you'll need to replace the rod. I've done this
on 2 kilns.
Bill

Mike Gordon on tue 2 mar 04


Sand them down and coat them with kiln wash, Mike Gordon
On Mar 2, 2004, at 6:15 AM, Weiland, Jeff wrote:

> To all the know-it-alls out there; is there such a thing as cones
> getting old? Here is the deal. In the last few bisque firings I have
> done, the cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It has been
> melting or fusing in a straight position so that it does not lower the
> arm and release the switch. I have been over-firing the bisque ware
> and having to shut off the kiln manually. The small cone melts to the
> two metal pins that hold it in place. I adjusted the metal plate on
> the trip switch once but that produced not real change in the
> sticky-cone situation. Would it help to sand down the pins to
> eliminate the build up of oxidation?
>
> HELP!!
>
> Jeff Weiland
> Greenfield-Central High School
> 810 North Broadway
> Greenfield, Indiana 46140
> 317-462-9211
> jweiland@gcsc.k12.in.us
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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Ivor and Olive Lewis on wed 3 mar 04


Dear Jef Weiland,=20

I think it would be most unusual for any make of proprietary Cone to =
misbehave. Quality control is impressive and the size of each batch =
which is mixed is of commercial proportions. I think there is a =
description in a back issue of Pottery Making Illustrated. Nor should =
they deteriorate with age. I am using stock purchased ten years ago, =
though not in a kiln sitter. But their performance is consistent.

I would look for some cause of malfunction in the mechanical operation =
of your Kiln Sitter.

Best regards,

Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia

Bill Karaffa on wed 3 mar 04


Have you checked to ensure that the arm moves freely?
Not only when the kiln is cold but also when it's hot.


Earl might be on the right track here. Over the course of years I have more
than once noticed an accumulation of crude build up in the channel through
which the trip rod goes. This can cause the rod to hang up during high heat.
A good cleaning of this channel will often solve the problem.

Bill Karaffa
Firemouth Pottery and Gallery
http://fp1.centurytel.net/karaffa

Snail Scott on wed 3 mar 04


At 09:15 AM 3/2/04 -0500, you wrote:
>..l.the cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It has been melting
or fusing in a straight position so that it does not lower the arm and
release the switch...Would it help to sand down the pins to eliminate the
build up of oxidation?


A little thin kiln wash on the support bars and on
the rod may help. Also, make sure that the rod moves
freely in the sitter tube; sometimes debris from
'things that went boom' can prevent the rod from
dropping.

-Snail

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 3 mar 04


Hi Snail, and all, and...



Are these Cones sitting at a slight angle, or, sitting
straight 'up'?



Phil
Las Vegas



----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"

> At 09:15 AM 3/2/04 -0500, you wrote:
> >..l.the cone does not bend and shut off the switch. It
has been melting
> or fusing in a straight position so that it does not lower
the arm and
> release the switch...Would it help to sand down the pins
to eliminate the
> build up of oxidation?
>
>
> A little thin kiln wash on the support bars and on
> the rod may help. Also, make sure that the rod moves
> freely in the sitter tube; sometimes debris from
> 'things that went boom' can prevent the rod from
> dropping.
>
> -Snail

Snail Scott on wed 3 mar 04


At 10:51 AM 3/3/04 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi Snail, and all, and...
>Are these Cones sitting at a slight angle, or, sitting
>straight 'up'?


I've been assuming that these were sitter 'cones',
and therefore horizontal.

-Snail