Deborah Redfern on tue 22 jul 97
Hello folks,
I'm trying to keep my old electric kiln running for another
year or so. But the lid is cracked in several places and bits of the brick
flake down onto the pots and get stuck in the glaze. It helps when I sweep
or vacuum any stray bits before I fire, but I was wondering about repairing
it. I've heard that you *can* repair it and also that I *shouldn't*
attempt it because it will lead to even more problems. Can anyone give me
some advice?
Deborah
redfern.d@thezone.net
Phil Concialdi on tue 22 jul 97
Deborah
I have several old kilns, and have used a thick solution of kiln wash to
stop flaking of the brick. Normal mixture of wash is 1 to 1, however I
suggest making a thicker batch using 1 1/2 dry kiln wash with 1 part water,
coat the entire surface with a good thick application.
I hope you have good luck with this.
Phil
Peninsula Pottery
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on wed 23 jul 97
Spray or brush with ITC, if the cracks are big fill them after the ITC
coating with ITC 200. While you are at it, it would be a good idea to do the
complete kiln. Call ITC at 904-285-0200 for more information.
Louis Ballard on wed 23 jul 97
regarding your crumbling kiln lid---if your kiln base is detachable and in
fairly good shape then make the lid the base & the base the lid? we did
this on our Econo-kiln & it worked fine til the base lid began crumbling
away (about six months) of heavy use.
Nils Lou on wed 23 jul 97
Patch the holes with ITC200 and coat the surface with ITC100. Suggest you
spray the whole kiln-elements and all. It will be like new. NL
On Tue, 22 Jul 1997, Deborah Redfern wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello folks,
>
> I'm trying to keep my old electric kiln running for another
> year or so. But the lid is cracked in several places and bits of the brick
> flake down onto the pots and get stuck in the glaze. It helps when I sweep
> or vacuum any stray bits before I fire, but I was wondering about repairing
> it. I've heard that you *can* repair it and also that I *shouldn't*
> attempt it because it will lead to even more problems. Can anyone give me
> some advice?
>
> Deborah
>
> redfern.d@thezone.net
>
gambaru on wed 23 jul 97
I have/had a ten year plus electric kiln with a cracked and crumbling lid.
Late June I used ITC products to repair. My lid is 37.5 in. wide. I used
ITC 100 to over spray hot face of the lid. Then, much like repairing
drywall or plaster, I dug out the cracks and treated with ITC 100 and then
patched with ITC 200. There were a couple of cracks that I did not dig out
as much as I should have (this is not dentistry) I will re do them when
time allows. They are not crumbling, just visible. The area where I prop
the lid was really bad and I was more aggressive digging out and it is
just fine. Five firings and no change. One pint of each product is more
than enough with lots of the repair material left over for future patching.
The reflective quality of ITC 100 has been mentioned in other posts about
this product so I backed off top switch as I neared end of firing. Worked.
Even firing. I intend to redo kiln more completely the next time I change
elements. M.
Olivia T Cavy on thu 24 jul 97
You can buy replacement lids for a number of commercial lids. I know
someone who did this recently with a Bailey kiln. It may be worth a phone
call to the manufacturer.
If you buy one, be sure to ask to have it pre-drilled for the hinge and
handle, which will probably not come with the replacement.
Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh
Dan C Tarro on thu 24 jul 97
I am using an old Skutt that has a lid that I am going to have to do
something about soon. I am only using it for bisque at this time, but am
contemplating some small oxidation firings which will mean that I will
have to worry about things falling like your situation. I am planning to
just replace the lid with a piece of ceramic fiber board with maybe some
ceramic fiber blanket on top of that. Probably the easiest thing I can
think of.
Dan Tarro
Oak Tree Stoneware
Ham Lake, Mn
Evan Dresel on thu 24 jul 97
We seem to have two types of ITC testimonials recently: Spray with ITC 100
and patch with ITC 200 vs patch with ITC 200 then spray with ITC 100. Is
one order better?
-- Evan in W. Richland Washington where the weather is about average
At 09:22 AM 7-23-97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have/had a ten year plus electric kiln with a cracked and crumbling lid.
>Late June I used ITC products to repair. My lid is 37.5 in. wide. I used
>ITC 100 to over spray hot face of the lid. Then, much like repairing
>drywall or plaster, I dug out the cracks and treated with ITC 100 and then
>patched with ITC 200. There were a couple of cracks that I did not dig out
>as much as I should have (this is not dentistry) I will re do them when
>time allows. They are not crumbling, just visible. The area where I prop
>the lid was really bad and I was more aggressive digging out and it is
>just fine. Five firings and no change. One pint of each product is more
>than enough with lots of the repair material left over for future patching.
> The reflective quality of ITC 100 has been mentioned in other posts about
>this product so I backed off top switch as I neared end of firing. Worked.
> Even firing. I intend to redo kiln more completely the next time I change
>elements. M.
>
>
Sue Pellegrini on fri 25 jul 97
Ha! tried that...with my 27x29 L&L...put the cracked top lid on the
bottom...then put the bottom lid up onto the sections which were stacked
nearby...removed the band and the bricks fell apart, down into the hole.
Experience is so expensive.
Pelly in Rochester, NY
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on fri 25 jul 97
The base coat always is ITC 100.
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