Suzanne Storer on wed 16 jul 97
I am looking for some lightweight, strong, durable, collapsible (only when
you want it to!) shelving for my pottery display. It will be used for both
retail and wholesale show display indoors and outdoors. Any recommendations?
Talbott on thu 17 jul 97
/\ /\ Bird's Eye view... 2 pairs of ladders hinged together (per
unit) and use 1x12's for shelving... 4 or 5 rungs per ladder... I wrote a
detailed post on this at one time... if I can find it then I will send it
to you...
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am looking for some lightweight, strong, durable, collapsible (only when
>you want it to!) shelving for my pottery display. It will be used for both
>retail and wholesale show display indoors and outdoors. Any recommendations?
1ST ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1997)
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
WBS Live Chat Room, Sat Nites 10 PM EDT, Private Room: Clayarters
E-MAIL: clupus@ime.net
Talbott on thu 17 jul 97
Found it!
I use the double set of "V"'s (ladder system) described in the original
message below for my shelf supports. Each ladder is 6' long. The rungs
(actually 1x3's) are about 20" long. (The rails are also of 1x3 pine and
are secured to the rungs by 5/16" dowels...4 dowels support each rung, 2
per side) When the "V"'s are positioned at a 45 degree angle they
accomodate my 12" wide shelves. I use #3 or #4 rough sawn 1x12 pine
shelving that are a full 1" thick (last time I purchased these boards they
were around $.50/lineal ft.) My shelves are 6' long. When I go to a craft
show, usually only two per year, these hinged "V"'s fold up easy and set up
just as easily. I have 6 of these "V" units (12 ladders total) for my
shelf supports. With 5 shelves per unit that gives me 30 square feet of
shelving space per unit or 90 square feet of display space for the three
units! I also have a break-down table which I built for writing out sells
receipts, my food and drinks, etc. All of this fits nicely into the back
of my pick-up truck. I can easily fit this display shelf system into a
standard 10'x10' area and still allow plenty of space for browsing... I
get many compliments on my display system from other crafts people at the
fair..
....(two V's for shelf support) /\ /\ /\ /\ ...Marshall
1ST ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1997)
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
WBS Live Chat Room, Sat Nites 10 PM EDT, Private Room: Clayarters
E-MAIL: clupus@ime.net
Carol Jackaway on thu 17 jul 97
Hi,
I make very colorful, scuplture, functional art and need the same type of
display. Light weight, collaspable and durable. I decided to use luever
doors. What I did was Take to hinged sets (bought together) and used
suitcase buclkes to snap them together in the rear. When stood up they have
a back and two sides. I took slots out of the sides to allow light in on the
work (this is needed at outdoor shows). I use glass shelves to display the
work, this adds weight and allows light to flow through the unite. I also
painted them black. For indoor shows lights can be added to the tops, and so
on.
Just my 2 cents......
CoilLady@aol.com
Carol
Kenneth D Westfall on fri 18 jul 97
This is what we use, too, basically. Many use 2 X 4's and rip them
lengthwise with a saw to construct the ladders. May I recommend that for
stability and visual balance, we used 2 X 6's and found it to be much
more satisfactory. We also used a router to take the |__ square edges
off the 1 X 12's and the 2 X 3's (after ripping the 2 X 6's) so it looks
more finished. We used 3" brass cabinet hinges and made extensions for
the top of each 2-ladder unit to add on a light bar and we made 6 ft
long shelves and 8 ft long shelves for versatility. Works well, packs
pretty small and has lasted without too much maintenance for 9 years now
and still going strong. A tung oil finish will repel water well, and
will dust easily after shows. It darkens the wood minimally, tho' the
wood will darken with age and it's easy to spruce them up with another
light coat of Tung Oil a couple of days before the show. I'm not a water
repellents fan and I also don't like staining and waxing wood, so the
tung oil is a low-maintenance preserver. We used pine, and the whole lot
of 12 shelves, 7 6'tall ladders, 2 4'tall ladders and various other
small shelves and light bar pieces, tung oil hinges, sanding paper and
glue cost us around $500. Not the cheapest display, but we've put no
more $ into it, except to oil it a couple of times. I think it pays off
in the end.
Tracey Westfall
potter-ken@juno.com
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 18:57:13 EDT Talbott writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
> /\ /\ Bird's Eye view... 2 pairs of ladders hinged together (per
>unit) and use 1x12's for shelving... 4 or 5 rungs per ladder... I
>wrote a
>detailed post on this at one time... if I can find it then I will send
>it
>to you...
>
>>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>>I am looking for some lightweight, strong, durable, collapsible (only
>when
>>you want it to!) shelving for my pottery display. It will be used
>for both
>>retail and wholesale show display indoors and outdoors. Any
>recommendations?
>
> 1ST ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1997)
> http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
>
> Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box
>4116,
> Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call
>first)
> WBS Live Chat Room, Sat Nites 10 PM EDT, Private Room:
>Clayarters
> E-MAIL: clupus@ime.net
>
Berry Silverman on wed 11 mar 98
I have committed to my first wholesale show, and now I have to think
about display shelving. In planning a display, I am trying to consider
not only adequate shelf feet in a 10x10 space, but also the portability
and weight of the setup, since it will have to be shipped quite a
distance.
The recent thread about pedestals was helpful. Does anybody have
suggestions about other display options? What about lighting? What
else should I be thinking about?
TIA from the uninitiated.
Berry in Tucson
Don Jones on thu 12 mar 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have committed to my first wholesale show, and now I have to think
>about display shelving. In planning a display, I am trying to consider
>not only adequate shelf feet in a 10x10 space, but also the portability
>and weight of the setup, since it will have to be shipped quite a
>distance.
>The recent thread about pedestals was helpful. Does anybody have
>suggestions about other display options? What about lighting? What
>else should I be thinking about?
>TIA from the uninitiated.
>Berry in Tucson
Berry
It would be worth your while if you can travel a reasonable distance to a
large show to research display options and talk to fellow clay
participants. There are so many different plans it is helpful to see them
in person and ask questions.
Don Jones
claysky@highfiber.com
:-) implied in all messages and replies
http://highfiber.com/~claysky
Wendy Rosen on thu 12 mar 98
Berry, Tell us more about exactly what size and price point of work you
will show... for a lighting recommendation I need to know about the glazes
whether they are mat or gloss.. faceted face halogen P32's are great for
non-glare finishes... I'd use a combination with some softer floods or just
regular spots. Some lights show off form more than surface. If you go to
the GE Lighting web site I'm sure they will tell you exactly how each bulb
functions.
It's important to remember the "TRIANGLE RULE" never put all your
lighting facing one direction... you'll get harsh shadows that distract
from your work... instead put your lights in a triangle arrangement so that
light is coming from at least two, preferable three different angles...
(left, right, behind or left right, forward, or left right and down...)
There are only three BIG mistakes our new artists are likely to
make in their first exhibit experience...
1) PRICING TOO LOW
2) TAKING MORE ORDERS THAN YOU CAN DELIVER
3) NOT LIGHTING COMPETITIVELY AND EFFECTIVELY!
The first two won't harm your sales (at the first show)... the last
one is an expensive mistake... most artists have work that doesn't fail to
sell... they have "display lighting" that fails to sell!
I can't wait to hear all the other advice... this has always been a
challenge for me...
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have committed to my first wholesale show, and now I have to think
>about display shelving. In planning a display, I am trying to consider
>not only adequate shelf feet in a 10x10 space, but also the portability
>and weight of the setup, since it will have to be shipped quite a
>distance.
>The recent thread about pedestals was helpful. Does anybody have
>suggestions about other display options? What about lighting? What
>else should I be thinking about?
>TIA from the uninitiated.
>Berry in Tucson
*******************************************
Wendy Rosen
The Rosen Group
Niche & AmericanStyle Magazines
http://americanstyle.com
The Buyers Markets of American Craft
http://www.rosengrp.com
http://www.americancraft.com
3000 Chestnut Ave #304 Baltimore, MD 21211
Voice: 410/889-3093 Fax: 410/243-7089
*******************************************
KLeSueur on thu 12 mar 98
When we did the Rosen show we built pedestals that went together with velcro.
We made panels of luan. Two sides had 1"x1" strips added to each side. The
velcro was attached to the outside edge. The other two panels had velcro
attached to the corresponding edge. At the show we just pressed the sides
together and then stapled cloth around the pedestal. The tops were1/4"
masonite that we sanded to round the edges and then painted with enamel spray
paint.
They were all 15" wide and as tall as 4'. Our whole display including pots fit
in a small caravan. It was also so light that instead of using the loading
dock when we packed up the show, we just packed up and took everything out the
front door (much faster).
Very few people used shelving for display. Remember, this is a wholesale show.
You only need one of each item.
As for lighting, track lighting is a must. You need to have a combination of
bulbs, both spot and others with a wider spread of light. Inadequate lighting
is one of the most frequent problems I observed at the show. If you are doing
the Rosen show I believe they can point your way to suppliers for track
lighting who will be cheaper and have a better understanding of what you need
than trying to do it with your local lighting store or Home Depot.
There is also one other piece of advice I would like to suggest. Don't take
your best work as samples. Yes, I know you want to show your work in the best
way possible. But it's far better to take samples of how your work generally
looks. Then what you ship is better, they will be pleasantly surprised. While
if you take yor best work for samples, anything you ship that doesn't quite
measure up will create a bad feeling with your customers.
Kathi LeSueur
in Ann Arbor where its 18 degrees. What happened to spring?
Penne Roberts on thu 12 mar 98
Berry,
One of the lightest cube setups I've used is cardboard boxes the sizes
you need as pedestals, painted the color that complements the pottery.
I place a painted 1/4" thick board on the folded flaps for stability.
They fold flat, look good and are not hard to carry around and they will
last for several shows. They don't cost too much when you consider that
you do not have to spend time constructing them.
Good luck! Penne in Albuquerque
Morgan Glines on fri 13 mar 98
Sailmakers can give you a nice billowy backdrop for shelves that is
lightweight and dyed any color you want. I have used them in a booth with a
fan to give a little movement and to give me a little relief from the heat
of the lights. Usually you have to specify to the facility how much
electricity you will use (at least at the types of shows where I was
involved- the flower industry). Height and openness seem to draw people into
a booth.
Berry Silverman wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have committed to my first wholesale show, and now I have to think
> about display shelving. In planning a display, I am trying to consider
> not only adequate shelf feet in a 10x10 space, but also the portability
> and weight of the setup, since it will have to be shipped quite a
> distance.
> The recent thread about pedestals was helpful. Does anybody have
> suggestions about other display options? What about lighting? What
> else should I be thinking about?
> TIA from the uninitiated.
> Berry in Tucson
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John H. Rodgers on fri 13 mar 98
-- [ From: John H. Rodgers * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
On this same subject I like to use boxes and pedestals made from sonotube, a
construction material used to cast round concrete columns. I buy different
diameters, cut them to length an put an end on them, usually plywood. I
paint them either white or black. Then for display, both boxes or sonotube
pedestala, I place selected fabrics over them so they drape nicely. The
fabric colors and textures are selected to complement the claywork.
John Rodgers
In Alabama
-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
Date: Thursday, 12-Mar-98 08:00 AM
From: Penne Roberts \ Internet: (penne@flash.net)
To: Clayart \ Internet: (clayart@lsv.uky.edu)
Subject: Re: Display shelving
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Berry,
One of the lightest cube setups I've used is cardboard boxes the
sizes you need as pedestals, painted the color that complements the pottery.
I place a painted 1/4" thick board on the folded flaps for stability. They
fold flat, look good and are not hard to carry around and they will last for
several shows. They don't cost too much when you consider that you do not
have to spend time constructing them.
Good luck! Penne in Albuquerque
-------- REPLY, End of original message --------
Tom Wirt on sat 14 mar 98
Berry (in Tucson)
Don Jones suggestions are right on about trying to get to a show, any
show, before you take the leap. However, given that's not possible....
1). Get Wendy Rosen's book "Crafting as a Business"
2). You will need, minimally, to look professional, some sort of catalog
and a price sheet. The catalog can be a oneshot color sheet done by one
of the shoot and print companies for $500-$1,000. We do a 6 page black
and white, small photos (4-5 per page) for which I shoot the pix with a
proper background. I took a note from Bernard Leach and shoot bisquewre
which shows the shapes better. That costs about $500 for 500 copies.
Then we do a color sheet with similar shapes for the various glaze
availabilities. Tall, flat, round. Would be glad to send a copy. This
seems to work OK
The price sheet you can do up on your computer.
2). You'll need to consider your terms as have been discussed recently.
3). Booth. Needs to be sharp but doesn't have to be artsy. Presenting
your work as it should be shown in a retail setting is best. The buyer
can picture how it might look in their store. We've found arranging by
glaze type to be better than arranging by product type. They seem to buy
first by color, then by item.
he booth should compliment your work without getting in the way. If
someone looks at your display and says, my what a great display, then
you've gone too far. The work is to be the focus and the display should
only work to enhance it. (Personal opinion) if the booth is too
elaborate, something that couldn't be duplicated in a retail setting and
presentation of the work seems to be dependant on it, it may actually be
a negative.
We use simple, clean, knock-down retail shelving from a company in
Jackson IL., called Lundia. They have tremendous flexibility and can be
added to as you go. They will sell direct and have both a catalog and
price list. It isn't cheap, but isn't exorbitant either.
A rug is a nice touch it it's not furnished.
We haven't gone to graphics yet, but will next year. Blow-ups of you
working, your studio, your work, go a long way to enhancing the
presentation at low cost.
4). Keep it simple and professional. Keep your product line down and
offer limited glaze combinations....but do offer more than one.
Hopefully you've done some retail shows and know what will sell best.
5). Show only pieces you can, physically or psychologically, produce in
numbers. They don't have to be identical, but similarity is nice.
6). Be absolutely sure of your delivery dates. I project how many pieces
I can throw each week (Betsy can outglaze me on anything I can
throw)(could be 2 weeks or a month), factoring in retail shows, orders,
showroom needs etc., giving the balance to wholesale. (Note that time off
is not allowed :-) ). We go to the show with an appointment calendar
showing how many pieces per week are available for wholesale...as orders
come in, we note who and how many pieces they're ordering. When a weeks
filled, we go to the next one.
We also leave some space for reorders once the season gets going.
7). At the show, don't be as forward as you might be in a retail
setting. The buyers are busy and have a lot to cover. They should know
what they're looking for (if your work will fit their shop). Pleasant
acknowledgement, back off, watch for body language that they're
interested. Most don't really want a lot of chitchat. Be ready with a
printed order form from which you can give them a copy. Be sure your
booth number is on all materials. Many do look one day and buy the next.
Typical orders for us have been from our minimum ($350 or about 25
pieces) to $1,000. As a buyer gains experience with you over a couple of
years, the orders will increase or become more frequent. What you are
ultimately looking for, in my mind, is a number of solid regular
accounts, none of which is over 10% of your business. Initially, I'd
stay away from the big, multiple shop buyers, and the catalogs, until you
get a good feel for the wholesale business. It's tempting and
ego-gratifying to get big orders, but they can kill you, and think about
producing 500 or 1000 of a single item if you're a single or 2 person
studio (which I'm obvious;y assuming you are).
8). Have a minimum and pretty much stick with it. The minimum should be
based on what it takes to have a decent display of your work.
9). Lighting is critical. General lighting is just the starting point.
Then use spots to lead the eye around your display and to highlight the
best pieces or groupings. You can bring a 10-foot plus bar and clamp it
over the side curtain supports and then run your lights from there. Or
rig floor stands at the signs. Just as with the booth, it doesn't have
to be fancy, but clean, simple, unobtrusive count. Lighting is, to me,
the most critical part of your display. It can way overcome other
shortcomings.
But I've rambled on long enough. Be glad to offer an opinion on other
specifics, Berry. Hope this has helped.
Tom Wirt,
Clay Coyote Pottery
Hutchinson, MN
claypot@hutchtel.net
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