Valice Raffi on tue 23 apr 96
Help please!
I bought a small amount of prepared (dry) egyptian paste. I've mixed it
but it feels weird (very plastic) & I can't seem to work with it the way
I'd like.
I remember awhile back, CM had an article, I've gone through my issues and
I can't locate it (but I did run across pictures of many of you!).
Anybody know what issue it was in? Or... has anyone worked with egyptian
paste before & have any suggestions?
Valice
Meg Schell on wed 24 apr 96
On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Valice Raffi wrote:
> I bought a small amount of prepared (dry) egyptian paste. I've mixed it
> but it feels weird (very plastic) & I can't seem to work with it the way
> I'd like.
>
> I remember awhile back, CM had an article, I've gone through my issues and
> I can't locate it (but I did run across pictures of many of you!).
>
> Anybody know what issue it was in? Or... has anyone worked with egyptian
> paste before & have any suggestions?
> Valice,
Yes I have used ep, and it was as you describe, gave up, made a mold
for little scarbs type things and beads, it fires oddly, as if it were
already glazed, but the beads etc.. turned out nice. I think it also
contains lead or another poison though I'm not sure on your formula.
This was back in 86 and yikes that is awhile.
Meg in Orlando, forgetting more each year
mschell@skynet.oir.ucf.edu
Anne Kwiatkowski on wed 24 apr 96
Hi Valice - yes, I recently worked with egyptian paste - fun stuff, but very
hard to work with. They don't recommend it for throwing unless the piece is
very small, because of its extreme plasticity. Also, you can't really trim
a thrown piece because you would remove the self glazing crystals that form
on the exterior - the whole point of the paste. I think traditionally the
paste has been used for small hand built pieces. If you are looking to
experiment with self glazing clays in general, I know a stoneware recipe
that is a lot easier to work with. (a lot less plastic!) Good luck.
-Annie
At 06:06 PM 4/23/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Help please!
>
>I bought a small amount of prepared (dry) egyptian paste. I've mixed it
>but it feels weird (very plastic) & I can't seem to work with it the way
>I'd like.
>
>I remember awhile back, CM had an article, I've gone through my issues and
>I can't locate it (but I did run across pictures of many of you!).
>
>Anybody know what issue it was in? Or... has anyone worked with egyptian
>paste before & have any suggestions?
>
>Valice
>
>
/\_/\ ,,,
{ @ @ }---- __/
\_0_/ (_)(_)(__(__/
Anne M. Kwiatkowski
in Washington, D.C.
VHardin706@aol.com on wed 24 apr 96
Annie,
Would you post the self glazing stoneware recipe that you have? Can you use
it for larger pieces than the egypcian paste.
TIA
Vicki
Pearl Joseph on wed 24 apr 96
Ceramics Monthly had an article in the April 1974 issue and gave the
following recipe which I tried. Egyptian paste is usually used for beads or
small objects. It is a peculiar feeling stuff, and not plastic or even clayey
in feel.
Neph Sy............39.0%
Soda Ash..........6.0
Bicarb of Soda..6.0
Kaolin.................6.0
Ball Clay.............6.0
Flint.....................37.0
Add Bentonite...2.0%
Add 2% copper Carb for Turquoise, 1/4-1% cobalt car or oxide for blue; 1/2-1%
Chromium oxide for green.
fire to C012
The only color I tried was the blue, and I used it for Raku pins. It worked
well. The article has many more instructions and details. Hope this helps.
Pearl Joseph in White Plains, NY
BobWicks@aol.com on thu 25 apr 96
In a message dated 96-04-24 10:15:15 EDT, you write:
> If you are looking to
>experiment with self glazing clays in general, I know a stoneware recipe
>that is a lot easier to work with. (a lot less plastic!)
Annie:
In reading the mail I found your comments very interesting in regards to
Egyptian Paste. I have done some work in this. I have been using a recipie
from CM for some years and it uses
Neph Syenite 39
Soda Ash 06
Bicarb Soda 06
EPK 06
OM#4 Ball 06
Flint 37
Fired to Cone 012
Reference Ceramics Monthly April 1974
I mix mine in small batches of about 100 grams and the entire mixture is
made in a small sandwich bag. I add the water to the dry mix in the bag
using just enough water to make it workable. After that I take it out of the
bag and work as fast as possible and then let it dry. I found that if you
use a salt shaker with borax in it sprinkled over the wet product that it
glazes better. Hope this helps you
Bob
Ron Roy on tue 6 aug 96
Hi everyone,
A friend needs some info about Egyptian paste. Would those of you who have
some experience please send along some start up help.
Thanks,
Ron Roy
Toronto, Canada
Evenings, call 416 439 2621
Fax, 416 438 7849
Victor Bryant on thu 8 aug 96
Hi there Roy and the rest of the group
Roy Rob wrote < A friend needs some info about Egyptian paste...>
ClayArt includes such an incredible collection of generous potters
that by the time I get through reading and learning from my digest,
most technical questions have been well answered and my two penn'oth
would be repetion...
However I have done a bit of work in this area which might help your
friend Ron and may interest some others in the group.
Egyptian?) Quartz Frit Paste Recipes:
First a Basic Quartz Frit Paste Recipe. 1 QF
Probably near to the ancient recipes:
80-90 parts of (silica)fine white sand, quartz or flint(or a mixture)
10-20 parts of soda ash
2-10 parts of colouring oxide
Mostly fired to somewhere between 800-900'C(1472-1652'F.)
Results will vary depending on fineness of the silica, the recipe and the firing
as was true when they were first made. It is difficult to handle.
EASIER TO HANDLE RECIPES
The following recipes are more plastic and can be easily modified for
a range of temperatures and qualities.
Quartz Frit Paste Recipe. 2 QF
Somewhat easier to use. More plastic because of the addition of
bentonite.
Soda Ash 15
Flint or fine Quartz 85
China clay, Ball Clay 10-20
or Bentonite 2-5
Colouring Oxide 2-10
Suggested firing temperature 980'C.(1796'F.)
Quartz Frit Paste Recipe. 3 QF
Improved handling by the addition of a water-based organic
thickening adhesive such as cornflour(cooked with a little water
first) or some made-up polycell wallpaper paste.
Soda Feldspar 34
Flint 34
Ball Clay 11
Soda Ash 10
Suggested firing temperature 980'C.(1796'F.)
Quartz Frit Paste Recipe. 4 QF
Potash Feldspar 40
Flint 20
China Clay 15
Ball Clay 5
Soda Ash 12
Whiting 5
Fine white sand 8
Bentonite 3
Suggested firing temperature 940'C.(1724'F.)
The consistency of the paste should be like putty, and is fairly
easy to handle. It can be dried on boards without losing soda.
The paste may have a tendency to become sticky if it becomes warm
through excessive handling, or by leaving it in a warm place.
It may be found more satisfactory to use a fritted soda material
such as high alkaline frit in place of PART of the soda ash. Doing
this would cut down the amount of leaching out and it would
tend to cause the body to flux more and become more richly coloured
if colourant oxides are added to the body. Do some experiments.
Additions of 5% of fine white grog or molochite can strengthen the
body and give it a grainy quality.
COLOURANTS :
Blue/green/turquoise: Copper oxide or carbonate from 2-6%
Persian Blue 10% Copper carbonate. + 0.5% Cobalt carbonate.
Blue generally Cobalt can be added in amounts as low
as 0.25% for pale blues. 1% will give
a deep bright blue
Pink 0.2% Manganese dioxide(in some recipes)
Deep Purple 2% Manganese dioxide
Yellow 0.5% Chromic oxide
Apple green 1-2% Chromic oxide
Other metallic oxides can be tried as also can all the body stains,
though they vary in their effectiveness.
MAKING - SOME SUGGESTIONS:
Until you become experienced stick to simple small shapes.
Work quickly, only handle while plastic.
Shapes are usually modelled or press-moulded.
Try pressing from LIGHTLY oiled small metal or wooden shapes -
cookie moulds in the kitchen? Press quickly, then allow to dry.
Use cutters and stamps to make and decorate small tiles.
Roll into tiny balls and string on a few inches of kiln element wire
and suspend between two small kiln props for drying and firing.
DRYING & FIRING:
Avoid rubbing or touching the object when it is drying, as the
whitish powder which forms on the exposed parts is the glaze!
Allow the air to reach as much of the surface of the body as
possible to prevent any patchiness or dry mat surfaces.
In some cases drying on stilts and firing on these may be needed.
Frit paste beads can be threaded onto heat resistant nichrome
element wire before dry and fired on the wire.
Remember, the parts of the object which are not exposed to the air
when drying will not be glazed. For example the underside of any
paste object or pot will not be glazed unless it is dried on three
dots, stilts or open wire mesh.
The paste should be very dry before firing otherwise there is the
possibility of flaking and in general it is best to fire as high as
possible without destroying the colour, usually to about 940-960'C.(1724-1760'F.
Do a series of tests to find the temperature which produces the
quality of surface and colour you prefer. In a small kiln you can
switch off, extract a sample with tongs, close door and switch on to
continue heating. Repeat over a range of about 100'C.or 200'F.
Choose the example you prefer and fire to that temperature next time.
Because of the difference in particle sizes of glaze materials and
the flux/refractory nature of the colourants, regard my firing
temperatures as a starting guide.
If anyone wants more information, or fuller experimental details
and/or historical background, please e-mail me. I can also send
fuller notes as an E-mail with attached EXE or ZIP files.
Victor Bryant U.K.
100,672.2103@compuserve.com
Levine Meg Jessica on fri 9 aug 96
Ron Roy:
I have worked alot with Egyptian Paste. There are several recipes in
James Chappell's book "The Potter's Complete Book of Clay and Glazes",
both the older and the revised editions. He gives recipes from cones
cones 016-04. I do not have the same problem that another letter spoke of
with the paste fluxing out onto the kiln shelves. I use it as decoration
(press molded and extruded) on top of my bisqued piece, on top of the
unfired glaze and fire it in my glaze firing.( to cone 05) So- I'm happy
when it melts a little into the glaze. It took a lot of experimenting to
get comfortable with the paste as a medium. It was such a mess when I
first started... I nearly did not continue. But- I am glad that I did. A
few things that might be helpful are 1. Try mixing the paste to different
consistencies..( like firm clay, like firm slip for extruding, etc.
etc...) I often mix the same color both firm and a little softer for
different effects on the same piece. 2. The paste I use is extremely
brittle when fired. I have to warn other people who handle the work as it
is much more brittle than the regular glazed clay and can break quite
easily. 3. Try mixing colors
of the paste. The colors are so great I love the surfaces. Some recipes
are more glossy than others- so experiement. I prefer it on my work when
the paste is more matte, or satin in finish. Good luck and have fun, Meg
Tamsin A. Whitehead on fri 9 aug 96
Victor Bryant...what great info on Egyptian paste! While we are on the
subject, I have been intending to try something and wondered if anyone
else had already done so and has any tips??!!...
I was thinking of firing egyptian paste as a decorative element onto
already fired stoneware, glazed/unglazed. I fire to ^6 usually, in
electric oxidation. My thought was just to 'stick' the paste onto the
already fired ware and refire to the lower temp required for the paste.
Has anyone tried this before or have any ideas? Or warnings?!!
TIA
Tamsin
In Nottingham, NH where the hummingbirds are flirting with the spray from
my garden hose and I got held up on the way home for 20 minutes while a
moose meditated in the middle of the road!
Levine Meg Jessica on sat 10 aug 96
Tamsin- I would try placing a healthy dab of low-fire glaze below the
paste decoration if I were to place it on an already glazed cone 6 piece.
You might also try firing the paste slightly hotter than the recipe calls
for. You will need to be careful as it might just melt, but it also might
adhere better to the surface. My preference has been to fire a glaze
and a paste recipe which mature at the same temperature.
When I have Egyptian paste in my glaze kiln, I take it up more slowly than
if the kiln had only glazed ware. Meg
----------------------------Original
I was thinking of firing egyptian paste as a decorative element onto
already fired stoneware, glazed/unglazed. I fire to ^6 usually, in
electric oxidation. My thought was just to 'stick' the paste onto the
already fired ware and refire to the lower temp required for the paste.
Has anyone tried this before or have any ideas? Or warnings?!!
TIA
Tamsin
Pearl Joseph on sat 10 aug 96
Dear Ron et al;
Ceramics Monthly had an article about Raku-fired Egyptiuan Paste in the April
1974 issue. (That dates me doesn't it!) I did try it and got some lovely
results. As everyone says, suitable for small objects, beads, pins, and such.
The recipe is as follows:
(cone 012)
Neph Sy..........39.0
Soda Ash..........6.0
Bicarb of soda..6.0
Kaolin.................6.0
Ball clay..............6.0
Flint....................37.0
add Bentonite......2.0
Add 2% copper carb for turquoise, 1/4 to 1% cobalt carb for blue,1/2 to1%
chromium oxide for green. I didn't try to get flashing, but the muted color
and some black speckles were just perfect.
Pearl in White Plains, NY
George Mackie on mon 17 feb 97
A group of friends meet for coffee and croissants on Sunday morning at our
house which is all very well but it kills the morning and nothing
accomplished, so I made up several batches of Egyptian paste and now they
make beads and scarabs etc, which I fire in my test kiln and theyre ready
for next week to be made into necklaces and things.
My question is this: why do all the recipes for EP include both sodium
bicarbonate and sodium carbonate? Ive tried making them up with only
one alkali and they seem to work just as well. But there must be
some theory behind this. As one who repeatedly failed chemistry exams I am
at a loss. George
Andrew S Lubow on sun 23 feb 97
Here's a formula for an Egyptian Paste that will make a self glazing
turqoise body. (The glaze is supplied by the soluble salts of soda drawn
to the surface as it dries), Be careful not to overhandle the items you
make as it will rub off the soda. Also be careful in the firing so the
glaze does not stick to your kiln shelves. The beads should be supported
on straight lengths of element wire and separated to prevent sticking to
each other. Fire to Cone 013. This body is highly toxic. A mask should be
worn when preparing the body and rubber gloves as a precaution.
Nepheline Syenite 39
Soda Ash 4
Sodium Bicarbonate 4
Kaolin 6
Flint 37
Bentonite 2
Copper Oxide (colorant) 3
Lithium Carbonate 4
I've used the formula above successfully. You could also experiment with
the following possible additions:
Other colorants:
Browns Burnt Umber 2-3%
Light Blue Cobalt Oxide 0.5%
Medium Blue Colbalt Oxide 1%
Dark Blue Colbalt Oxide 1.5-2%
Green Chrome Oxide 1.5-5%
Olive Iron Oxide 8%
Purple Manganese Dioxide 2%
Pink Iron Oxide 1%
Tan Burnt Umber 2-3%
Tan (Earthy) Yellow Ochre 4%
Tan (Warm) Rutile 3%
Turquoise Copper Oxide 2.5-4%
Live every day like it was your last. Some day you'll be right!!
Benny Hill
Paul D Kirwin on thu 21 jan 99
Has anyone worked with egyptian paste ? Do you encorporate it
into a pottery design or do you use it separately? I would love some
ideas or places to look it up... Thanks
Barbara
Kathleen Kirchoff on mon 25 jan 99
I used Egyptian paste with my 6th grade art classes to make jewelry. One
really cool social studies teacher helped them hide their jewels in shoe box
sarcorphi (sp?) with the cornish game hens they mummyfied. We used the Amaco
mix but I have seen a formula for an Egyptian paste clay body in my old
Ceramics textbook (Nelson's I think but i haven't seen my book lately.)
Since it not very plastic, we didn't do any pottery or complicated forms. We
carved plaster stamps to press designs into beads and pendants. I found the
color got grainy if the clay wasn't used a day or so after mixing the water
with the dry powder. It was fascinating to see how the copper and salt migrate
to the surface of the clay as the greenware dried. If those crystals aren't
brushed off by too much handling, they make a glaze that pools nicely in
stamped or carved details.
Would Egyptian paste actually be a form of salt firing? Since it was a special
project once a year, I guess the salt fumes did little to the school's kiln
elements. Could you get similliar effects by painting salt or soda with stains
on stoneware or porcelain? Would that be as rough on the kiln interior? Of
course that would not have the fun of a self-glazing clay body. Would the
salts and colorants migrate to the surface if mixed in higher firing bodies
or does Egyptian paste have to be a soft low fire ware? Any of you who excel
in ceramic chemistry want to tell us more about how Egyptian paste works? And
why do the historians want to confuse us by sometimes calling it faience?
Well i've probably gave more questions than answers. Good luck working with
this novelty clay body.
Kathleen
Eileen Streeter on mon 25 jan 99
i found a recipe in an old ceramics book 'step by step ceramics' by jolyn
hofsted '67... not that old but purchased it from a used book store...
the author noted that the original egyptian formula hasn't been duplicated...
but this handles like ordinary clay....
she gives two formulas:
^06 - 04
matt base (dry - will not stick when fired)
silica 75 grams
copper carbonate 2
sodium bicarbonate 2
bentonite 8
frit. lead 20
gloss base (shiny - keep separate on nichrome wire when firing)
oxford spar 800 grams
flint 400
china clay 500
ball clay 10
sodium bicarbonate 120
soda ash 120
whiting 100
fine white sand 160
colorants:
green 3% chrome
turquoise 3 black copper oxide
blue 1 - 3 cobalt carbonate
black 3 manganese dioxide
brown 3 red iron oxide
mix with water to a clay consistency when you want to use them...
if i recall my information from glaze calc correctly... you can experiment
with substitutes for the lead frit.... but the amount of lead in the frit
is small and these are not for consumption....
you could also purchase prepared powder...
hope this helps..
eileen
Joyce Lee on mon 25 jan 99
If you'd like a copy of an Egyptian paste post from '97, I'll forward it
if you but ask. I don't want to post it on Clayart because it isn't
mine, but it contains reliable information. I tried some beads and found
they looked not bad for a first try; the beads just weren't for me at
that point in my clay trek...but someday... Hamer's has a decent, short
description also, and some pubs list the "Egyptian paste" as "faience,"
which glaze gurus seem to agree is a misnomer.
Joyce
In the Mojave
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9?= Sprattling on thu 4 feb 99
Barbara,
It's been a while since I used Egyptian paste, but it is a low fire clay,
that essentially contains glaze materials within the clay taht rise to the
surface as it is drying. The Egyptians would dig this up near the sandy
beaches, so I understand, and ound it to beself glazing when fired. Dry
youre pieces on paper, and the bottom surface will remain unglazed as the
top surface will dry first and pull the glaze particles away from the
bottom. You can find receipes for Egyptian paste in "the Complete
Compendium o Clay and Glazes" (the author escapes me now). You can also
but it in powdered form but I'm not sure where. I got mine from a friend
woh bout it for her children's classes. I also tried making my ouw batch,
but it was not very successful. The colores are tourquoise, or yellow or I
think, Green. It is great for beads and small items, Not good for larger
pieces. Hope this helps some.
Have fun,
Rene
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Has anyone worked with egyptian paste ? Do you encorporate it
>into a pottery design or do you use it separately? I would love some
>ideas or places to look it up... Thanks
> Barbara
Muddy
Maridel Crawford-Brown on sat 6 feb 99
In reply to the query about Egyptian paste, for one other source, Daniel
Rhodes' old book, Clay and Glazes for the Potter (1957) has a column about
it including a recipe on page 191. He says it is the earliest form of glaze
developed prior to 5,000BC. perhaps more recent findings dispute this. if
you are interested in his recipe, Barbara, email me.
maridel
maridel@dlcwest.com
joe & lisa cecere on sun 7 feb 99
Hey..What ever you don't don't dry out the paste on a plaster wedging
table...my students did a few years ago...what a science project! The
egyptian paste was fine...but the table was growing hair for months. Every
morning we'd have to give it a hair cut..with a damp sponge. At least it
was entertaining...and we all learned about the salts evaporating to the
surface. What fun! Lisa K. C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Reni Sprattling
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: Egyptian paste
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Barbara,
It's been a while since I used Egyptian paste, but it is a low fire clay,
that essentially contains glaze materials within the clay taht rise to the
surface as it is drying. The Egyptians would dig this up near the sandy
beaches, so I understand, and ound it to beself glazing when fired. Dry
youre pieces on paper, and the bottom surface will remain unglazed as the
top surface will dry first and pull the glaze particles away from the
bottom. You can find receipes for Egyptian paste in "the Complete
Compendium o Clay and Glazes" (the author escapes me now). You can also
but it in powdered form but I'm not sure where. I got mine from a friend
woh bout it for her children's classes. I also tried making my ouw batch,
but it was not very successful. The colores are tourquoise, or yellow or I
think, Green. It is great for beads and small items, Not good for larger
pieces. Hope this helps some.
Have fun,
Rene
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Has anyone worked with egyptian paste ? Do you encorporate it
>into a pottery design or do you use it separately? I would love some
>ideas or places to look it up... Thanks
> Barbara
Muddy
jody nolan on tue 1 feb 00
I am interested in trying to create vessels using egyptian paste. are
there any recipes that would allow construction of pcs larger than just
bead size? any suggested reading on the topic of egyptian paste in
general. thanks. jody
Anita Rickenberg on wed 2 feb 00
Egyptian paste does very nicely in slump or hump molds. The piece must be
removed as soon as possible, though, to allow the mineral formation on the
surface which causes the "glaze". I have seen pictures of wheel thrown
egyptian paste vases, which are lovely, but apparently very difficult to
accomplish. If I recall, they are thown in stages, with each part drying
enough to support the next section.
Anita
----- Original Message -----
From: jody nolan
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:12 PM
Subject: egyptian paste
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am interested in trying to create vessels using egyptian paste. are
> there any recipes that would allow construction of pcs larger than just
> bead size? any suggested reading on the topic of egyptian paste in
> general. thanks. jody
Ron Collins on sun 20 jan 02
There is a great article in CM, but am too tired tonight to go look through
them all....someone else please tell her....on "Self Glazing Clays" both low
fire and to cone 6........mainly, as I remember, add 4% bicarb of soda, and
4% soda ash to a clay, set it on plastic, so it won't glaze on the bottom,
and let things happen for a few days while it dries.....why don't you just
put some other things in a little batch, set on a test tile and fire, and
see what happens....I don't know why copper carb will make a
difference...when I did my marathon glaze testing, I had self glazing clays
of all descriptions.....Melinda
Marsh Pottery on sun 20 jan 02
Hi All,
I want to make some Egyptian Paste that is not turquoise. I have two
recipes - both with copper carb.
Can anyone please tell me if I can substitute tin, cobalt, manganese,
chrome, vanadium or any other oxide or carbonate for the copper and still
get the satin finish?
Thanks.
Marsha
Marsh Pottery Studio
Check me out at:
http://www.marshpottery.com
Snail Scott on mon 21 jan 02
At 09:07 PM 1/20/02 -0500, you wrote:
> I want to make some Egyptian Paste that is not turquoise.
Cobalt makes its usual blue, and manganese makes a nice
purple.
-Snail
Marsh Pottery on mon 21 jan 02
**About calcining clam shells: That is how quick lime is made - VERY
caustic. Simply grind up the shells & use them as powder for the calcium
source in your glaze.
To Answer Melinda's response to my question for Egyptian Paste colorants:
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for your response. Haven't seen the CM article. I take PMI now.
The Egyptian Paste recipe (Rhodes p.293, 1973Revised Ed.) is as follows:
Pot Spar ... 40
Flint.............20
Kaolin...........15
Ball Clay......5
Sodium Bicarb...6
Soda ash (NaO2)..6
Whiting.........5
Fine White Sand....8
ADD Bentonite... 1.5% (my own addition for more plasticity)
Copper Carb..... 3%
This adds up to more than 100%, so I weighed it out as grams x5 for ~1 Lb
dry. 3% copper gives a very bright deep turquoise. Nice for beads, small
non-food items, and little blue hippos named William. All fired to Cone 08.
Care must be taken not to brush off the surface "fuzz" that forms - it is
the copper salts which gravitated to the surface, to form the glaze. It
must be made fresh and used immediately.
I just thought if someone had already tried other oxides besides copper, &
was willing to share, it would save me alot of work & time experimenting.
:o) I'm going to be teaching a bead-making class to our rock & gem club
soon, & wanted a few different colors.
Marsha
Ababi on tue 22 jan 02
First: Ceramic formulas; The Complete Compendium of Conard page 30 31
a lot of colors.
Second fromDon Goodrich's list:
EGYPTIAN PASTE (1971 A.D.) ^04
Ball Clay 35
J Frit (P2245) 12
Soda Ash 6
Fine White Sand 10
colorants:
turquoise 2% copper
blue 2% cobalt
Pink 1% manganese
Brown 5% manganese
lime green 5% chrome
from Anne Stecker
================================
EGYPTIAN PASTE (5000 B.C.) ^04
Feldspar 40
Flint 20
Kaolin 15
Ball Clay 5
Sodium Bicarbonate 6
Whiting 5
Fine White Sand 8
from Anne Stecker
================================
Ababi Sharon
Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
Glaze addict
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/
---------- Original Message ----------
>There is a great article in CM, but am too tired tonight to go look
>through
>them all....someone else please tell her....on "Self Glazing Clays"
>both low
>fire and to cone 6........mainly, as I remember, add 4% bicarb of
soda,
>and
>4% soda ash to a clay, set it on plastic, so it won't glaze on the
>bottom,
>and let things happen for a few days while it dries.....why don't you
>just
>put some other things in a little batch, set on a test tile and fire,
>and
>see what happens....I don't know why copper carb will make a
>difference...when I did my marathon glaze testing, I had self glazing
>clays
>of all descriptions.....Melinda
Khaimraj Seepersad on tue 22 jan 02
Hello to All ,
Ababi ,
from the First [ Ceramic Formulas - Conrad pg. 31 ]
is EG1 dry matte.
This is one of the most interesting Egyptian Paste
recipes , I have come across . Can be altered to
river stone gloss , and handles all colours [ I have
used stabilised stains , underglaze colours and
raw pigment ].
The body fires with a quality more akin to glass ,
if you so desire.
I have also ball milled sea sand from the low tide
water mark , down to -200 mesh and passed it
back through this recipe.
Down here , there are ultra plastic clays , unaffected
by Alkali's [ actually becoming better with the soda
bic.] , and they occur at the high tide mark , with
80% sand naturally mixed in.
I dry the sand/clay mix , and then clean to -325
mesh. The cleaning yields enough sand at 200 to
-200 mesh , to make an excellent E.Paste body.
As always , remember the problems associated
with fine sand - though this is crushed quartz and
not crypto-crystalline silica - there is bound to be
some - 600 mesh sand.
I design my E.Paste to be dried in the kiln , after
a night of resting to allow the body to equalise it's
moisture content. Usually under a plastic bag , or
in an empty aquarium.
The artificial drying , gives the best River Stone
Gloss and nothing like that ugly glassy gloss , often
expected of E.paste.
You can go from Matte to Satin to High glass gloss.
E.Paste , to test the ability and imagination.
Khaimraj Seepersad
[ West Indies / Caribbean ]
* There is actually a low budget printed book out
of India , with excellent chemical oxide breakdowns
on E.Paste and Glass.
Picked it up in a Puja Store of all places.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ababi
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: 22 January 2002 12:37
Subject: Re: Egyptian Paste
>First: Ceramic formulas; The Complete Compendium of Conard page 30 31
>a lot of colors.
< snip >
>Ababi Sharon
>Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
> Glaze addict
>ababisha@shoval.org.il
>http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
>http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
>http://www.israelceramics.org/
>
Elizabeth Priddy on wed 18 jun 03
I love the idea of it. If you are using it, does the "salty" aspect of the emergent glaze have any adverse effects on an electric kiln's elements?
I have found a recipe for Egyptian Paste and will need to buy the components to make it. Before I do, I would like to ask if anyone uses this on a regular basis and if you do, do you buy it or make it, and if you make it would you share the formula? If you buy it, can you share a source, because I would just as soon buy it if there is a reliable source.
I would like to make several colors and can fire to any temperature up to ^8 as needed. My children's classes want to make scarabs. I have two small ancient boxes of "egyptian paste" and I am both wary of it and there are no instructions and there isn't enough for thirty or so kids.
Thanks
Elizabeth Priddy
www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Beaufort, NC
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
Joyce Lee on wed 18 jun 03
Here's one recipe, Elizabeth, from the Archives.
There are many posts available from 1996 on which
may contain information you'd like, also.
Neph Syn............ 39%
Soda Ash........... 6%
Bicarb of Soda..... 6%
Kaolin.................. 6%
Ball Clay............ 6%
Flint.................. 37%
Add Bentonite....... 2%
Add Copper Carb .. 2% for Turquoise
Cobalt Carb or oxide ..... 1/4 to 1% for blue
Chromium OXide...........1/2 to 1% for green
Fire to ^012
The recipe originally came from CM.
Joyce
In the Mojave where I went into town today to
lunch in our tiny French restaurant, Mon Reve,
owned and run by the real thing ... everytime
I'm impressed by the quality of the food and of
the very young owners .... asked about
making some small pots they could give away
to customers as representative of their
restaurant. Just can't do it at the moment.=20
Sounds like fun, though.
claybair on wed 18 jun 03
Elizabeth,
Seattle Pottery has several colors of Egyptian Paste.
I bought it for my daughter when she wanted to make some beads.
I admit I was curious about it.
We used a small quantity of it. I put some it in a plastic sandwich bag
added water, sealed it and she mixed it in the bag. that worked well
as she just kept it in the bag and we didn't have to worry
about it drying out.
The beads turned out great.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Elizabeth
Priddy
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 2:58 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Egyptian Paste
I love the idea of it. If you are using it, does the "salty" aspect of the
emergent glaze have any adverse effects on an electric kiln's elements?
I have found a recipe for Egyptian Paste and will need to buy the components
to make it. Before I do, I would like to ask if anyone uses this on a
regular basis and if you do, do you buy it or make it, and if you make it
would you share the formula? If you buy it, can you share a source, because
I would just as soon buy it if there is a reliable source.
I would like to make several colors and can fire to any temperature up to ^8
as needed. My children's classes want to make scarabs. I have two small
ancient boxes of "egyptian paste" and I am both wary of it and there are no
instructions and there isn't enough for thirty or so kids.
Thanks
Elizabeth Priddy
www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Beaufort, NC
Lily Krakowski on thu 19 jun 03
The only recipe I find right now is in Behrens, GLAZE PROJECTS:
Cone O16. If this is a typo it ain't mine. Repeat: cone oh sixteen.
Neph Sy 25
Frit 3134 15
Flint 20
50-Mesh sand 5
Tennesee Ball Clay#1 25
Anhydrous Borax 3
Soda Ash 4
Bentonite 3
He suggests cobalt carb for deep blue; copper carb for turquoise. green
chromium oxide for green.
He adds oh so wisely that flat pieces--as made in press molds the making of
which he describes--should be fired on metal studded stilts, and bead on
resistance wire...
Roger Korn writes:
> Hi Lili,
>
> I have heard that EP contains soda ash, which is soluble. Are there
> other soluble ingredients
> in EP?
>
Lily Krakowski wrote:
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Lily Krakowski on thu 19 jun 03
Not having used the stuff in forever.....
EP is one of several "forms" of "self-glazing" clays. As I recall they work
because soluble materials are carried to the surface of the clay body when
the water IN the body evaporates. Hence one should not handle the stuff too
much in the making. Get the thing made and leave it alone.
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Roger Korn on thu 19 jun 03
Hi Lili,
I have heard that EP contains soda ash, which is soluble. Are there
other soluble ingredients
in EP?
TIA,
Roger
Lily Krakowski wrote:
> Not having used the stuff in forever.....
>
> EP is one of several "forms" of "self-glazing" clays. As I recall
> they work
> because soluble materials are carried to the surface of the clay body
> when
> the water IN the body evaporates. Hence one should not handle the
> stuff too
> much in the making. Get the thing made and leave it alone.
>
>
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> P.O. Box #1
> Constableville, N.Y.
> (315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
>
> Be of good courage....
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
31330 NW Pacific Ave.
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
Snail Scott on thu 19 jun 03
At 02:58 PM 6/18/03 -0700, you wrote:
>I love the idea of [egyptian paste]. If you are using it, does the
"salty" aspect of the emergent glaze have any adverse effects on an
electric kiln's elements?
I doubt that it really volatilizes at these temperatures.
>...do you buy it or make it...
I don't know of any pre-made sources, personally.
Here's a recipe I've used (source lost), for ^08-07:
6 parts Neph Sy
6 parts Silica
2 parts Kaolin
1 part Baking Soda
Add some glycerine for plasticity
3% copper carb gives that classic turquoise color.
1% cobalt is a reliable medium blue; 1.5% is dark blue;
more than that and it goes metallic.
1% of manganese is muted purple; 2% is dark purple.
Mason stains don't work well - too much is needed for bright
colors, so it proportionally diminishes the salt content,
and it doesn't come out as shiny as with oxides.
It's really non-plastic, so it's more like working with
salt-dough kiddy clay than with 'real' clay. Fine detail
doesn't work too well, but blob-shapes like scarabs and
beads are perfect for the material. Large objects tend to
slump a bit while damp- under 2" is a good size. DO NOT
handle the pieces after they are finished; they need to dry
evenly, UNTOUCHED. Put 'em on a lunch tray or some such,
and leave them alone until fully dry. They will acquire
a 'bloom' on the surface, just like the worst earthenware
'scumming' you ever saw. That's important, because that's
what melts and forms the glaze when fired, and if it's
overhandled, that layer may get knocked loose and you'll
get a matte spot on the piece.
-Snail
Claudia MacPhee on mon 27 dec 04
Was wondering if anyone out there in Clayland uses this stuff enough
to answer some questions for me about it. Being up here in the frozen north
I am totally dependent on books, the 'net' and wonderful Clayart for
information. Once school resumes after the Christmas break I am doing a
project of making grave objects, scarabs etc with the 7-8-9 class . I have
several boxes of Egyptian paste complete with mixing instructions, thats
the simple part! Once its mixed up how long can I keep it usable? Does
anyone have a good receipe for making more? This stuff is expensive and we
are on a tight budget. It looks like it would be fun for my afterschool
group to make beads and little figures with, as they don't like glazing at
all! Any tricks to help us out would be appreciated.
I have been reading Clayart faithfully for over a year and think I have
read every post in the potters.org site. This is by far the best info
source anyone can imagine, better than the best textbook or all of them put
together. Thank You.
Claudia MacPhee in the very frozen Southern Yukon where it is snowing
right now.
Snail Scott on tue 28 dec 04
At 02:11 PM 12/28/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Will [egyptian paste] stick to the shelves...or is kiln wash an
>adequate protection/release agent? How about using a traditional bead tree
>with nichrome wire? Would you recommend applying kiln wash to the wires?
The glaze-forming soda 'fuzz' will only form
on the sides of the work that moisture
evaporates from. So, it tends not to form
much glaze on the bottoms of shapes. Wire
'trees' for beads are useful for getting
really even surfaces with no kilnwash bits
stuck to it, but not absolutely essential.
If you have nichrome wire, try letting the kids
form their bead shapes, then jam the wire right
through and wiggle it to make the hole. (Bigger
holes are easier to string later, and allow for
leather thongs and cool cording.) Each kid's
beads will then be on 'their' wire, and sorting
them out later will be painless. Better to make
multiple short wires; long ones will need support
every few inches unless you get the thick rod
intended for bead trees. (If you've got that,
use it; if you've got wire and no bead trees,
you can make do as above. Don't buy trees unless
you expect to do lots of this. Or, buy just the
rod, and make the trees from your own clay.)
A ver thin layer of kilnwash is nice for the
rods/wires, but likely to get rubbed off if you
use the wires to make the holes. You probably
won't need it, though. Since there isn't much
evaporation to the inside of the holes, there
isn't much glaze formed, and a slight twist or
tap is usually enough to get them loose after
firing.
-Snail
William Schran on tue 28 dec 04
At 11:17 PM 12/27/2004, Claudia wrote:
> >I have
>several boxes of Egyptian paste complete with mixing instructions, thats
>the simple part! Once its mixed up how long can I keep it usable?<
It's been quite some time since I've worked with Egyptian paste, but once
you mix with water, just keep it tightly sealed so it won't dry out.
As the clay drys the "glaze" (sodium) will migrate to the surface. It's
important not to disturb the powdery glaze, otherwise you'll be left with a
bare spot.
I found the easiest way to deal with ending up with no glaze on the bottom,
cause the glaze will come to the surface all over, is to place the
completed wet work on a wet/damp paper towel which will absorb the glaze
from the bottom. You can also stilt each work.
You don't mention what cone you'll be firing to. Here's a recipe for
Egyptian paste from Chappell's book for cone 07:
Neph. Sy. - 36
Silica - 34
Kaolin - 11.3
Bentonie - 8.2
Sodium Bicarbonate - 5.2
Soda Ash - 5.2
add 3% copper carb for turquoise or 1% cobalt carbonate for blue
Good Luck, Bill
Snail Scott on tue 28 dec 04
At 08:17 PM 12/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>...I have
>several boxes of Egyptian paste complete with mixing instructions, thats
>the simple part! Once its mixed up how long can I keep it usable?
Keep it tightly wrapped and damp; it'll last a while.
>Does anyone have a good receipe for making more? This stuff is expensive
and we
>are on a tight budget...
It's cheap and easy to make; don't buy any more of
it! (The kids could probably do it in class as a
group). There are many recipes in the archives, and
most common clay texts have at least one recipe.
(sorry I can't dig mine out for you right now, but
if you haven't found one in a day or so, drop me a
line and I'll look.)
It looks like it would be fun for my afterschool
>group to make beads and little figures with, as they don't like glazing at
>all! Any tricks to help us out would be appreciated.
It's great for little lumpy things like beads -
not so good for fine-detail projects. Beads are
perfect, though.
The only 'trick' I can think of is to not disturb
them or handle them while drying. The fuzzy white
scum that forms on top is the future glaze - it's
very easy to accidentally brush it off. If you put
them onto kiln shelves to dry, then you won't have
to handle them when you load.
-Snail
pam on tue 28 dec 04
I was chatting with a local lady here in KC that does Egyptian Paste
workshops at her studio. She was kindly giving me advice as I am a Egyptian
paste newbie myself. I have a bunch of items made but have not fired them
yet. Anyway, here is a gem of info from Rebecca Koop
http://www.backdoorpottery.com/ . She warned me not to fire the EP along
with greenware being bisqued. Evidently the greenware produces fumes that
interfere with the glaze on EP, and you will get unsatisfactory glaze
results
Pam
Linda Ziesmer on tue 28 dec 04
"The only 'trick' I can think of is to not disturb
them or handle them while drying. The fuzzy white
scum that forms on top is the future glaze - it's
very easy to accidentally brush it off. If you put
them onto kiln shelves to dry, then you won't have
to handle them when you load."
-Snail
Will it stick to the shelves in the above scenario or is kiln wash an
adequate protection/release agent? How about using a traditional bead tree
with nichrome wire? Would you recommend applying kiln wash to the wires?
Scraping off the dried "glaze" from each bead seems an arduous task.
Comments from any of you who work with this stuff regularly? There was a
very useful article several months ago in either Clay Times or PMI but it
didn't discuss this point. Thanks
-Linda
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Chuck Wagoner on tue 28 dec 04
Marj Peeler puts wax paper under the "dry side" which she says helps the
good side. Another thing she asked me to pass on is that she likes to
work with it on marble.
I believe she wrote on article on it for PMI which is out or will be
coming out soon. She has done some wonderful work with EP.
Chuck Wagoner
Rockville, IN
The sledding was good today, as long as you don't run into the fence at
the bottom of the hill.
Valice Raffi on thu 30 dec 04
Linda,
for egyptian paste beads, I dip string in wax resist and hang the beads on
that to dry. That way the glaze doesn't form (very much!) on the inside of
the bead. For firing, I put them on kiln washed bead tree wire, trying to
handle them as little as possible. For small objects, I let them dry on a
piece of tin foil or plastic so they don't develop much glaze on the
bottom. Then I stilt them or place them on grog on top of cookies. They
spit sometimes so I always use a cookie or broken slab underneath.
Valice
in Las Cruces, NM
>Will it stick to the shelves in the above scenario or is kiln wash an
>adequate protection/release agent? How about using a traditional bead tree
>with nichrome wire? Would you recommend applying kiln wash to the wires?
>Scraping off the dried "glaze" from each bead seems an arduous task.
>Comments from any of you who work with this stuff regularly? There was a
>very useful article several months ago in either Clay Times or PMI but it
>didn't discuss this point. Thanks
>
Diana Pancioli on fri 24 jun 05
About 20 years ago I did some experiments
(at Pewabic Pottery) with"self glazing clays"
--another name for Egyptian Paste like bodies.
They worked fine.
You can actually make a self glazing body at cone 10,
and presumably every temperature in between,
with differing thickness of "glaze" surfaces,
by adding the same solubles
that make Egyptian Paste glaze itself.
The tests were incremental,
and the ones I liked the best had less solubles included.
Diana Pancioli
Centa Uhalde on mon 6 mar 06
Hi,
I'd like to hear from anyone using Egyptian paste. Is it good only at low
temp? Is it satin or matt? Is it good to paint with? Does it cover red clay?
Also, I'm interested in paper clay applications with metal sculptural
armature, if anyone has experience in this direction. And, can anyone tell
me a good listserv for sculpture?
centa
Lili Krakowski on tue 7 mar 06
Egyptian Paste is a very low fired self-glazing clay body. Simply put the
material that glazes it is water soluble and rises to the surface as the
water in the clay evaporates.
Therefore it must be handled with great care all along the way.....Making it
too sloppy tends to wash out the water-solubles. Handling it too much will
"wear them off".
Several clay books...and I think magazines.. have had articles on it....I
urge you to read up a bit as it is trickier than one would expect.
As to the question you did not ask: Yes one can make self-glazing bodies at
higher temps--but I do not think anyone does....(I probably am wrong)
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
William & Susan Schran User on tue 7 mar 06
On 3/6/06 6:49 PM, "Centa Uhalde" wrote:
> Egyptian paste. Is it good only at low
> temp? Is it satin or matt? Is it good to paint with? Does it cover red clay?
> Also, I'm interested in paper clay applications with metal sculptural
> armature, if anyone has experience in this direction.
Egyptian paste is a low fire clay that contains the "glaze" within it.
As the clay dries, the sodium compounds migrate to the surface to form the
glaze when fired.
You can use paperclay over a metal armature, but you can only fire as hot as
the metal will allow.
There are threads in the Clayart archives on Egyptian paste and on
paperclay.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Snail Scott on tue 7 mar 06
At 03:49 PM 3/6/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>I'd like to hear from anyone using Egyptian paste...Also, I'm interested
in paper clay applications with metal sculptural
>armature...
Actually, you can combine these things!
Because of the low temperature and low
shrinkage, Egyptian paste can be applied
directly to steel armature and fired,
leaving the metal as an integral part of
the work.
-Snail
Adam on thu 13 apr 06
Hey,
Im studying for a BA Hons in Ceramics and one of my current projects is
Egyptian Paste. I have chosen to find the limitations of egyptian paste
when throwing with it. I have thrown a small amount of paste to the hight
of aprox 3 inches.
The problems i am having is that it breaks/ crumbles, i have been told
that adding something like wallpaper paste will help.
This is a new area of Ceramics for me and would appreciate any help anyone
has to offer.
Thanks
Adam
Susan P on thu 13 apr 06
I am curious - just read a bit about using a cheap "syrup" in slip to
substitute for water for the purpose of printing with slip onto raw clay.
Wonder if something like that could be used in making the Egyptian paste as
well? Don't know. If interested, I will look up the CM article that was
referenced.
Susan near Seattle
On 4/13/06, Adam wrote:
>
> Hey,
> Im studying for a BA Hons in Ceramics and one of my current projects is
> Egyptian Paste. I have chosen to find the limitations of egyptian paste
> when throwing with it. I have thrown a small amount of paste to the hight
> of aprox 3 inches.
>
> The problems i am having is that it breaks/ crumbles, i have been told
> that adding something like wallpaper paste will help.
>
> This is a new area of Ceramics for me and would appreciate any help anyon=
e
> has to offer.
>
> Thanks
>
> Adam
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Pat Southwood on fri 14 apr 06
Adam,
it sounds like you might be in England?
How far are you through your course, and where are you studying? Is it a
pure ceramics course or mixed media ?
Personally, I think 3" of egyptian paste throwing is pretty damm fantastic.
You just need to make them very effective 3"
Have you tried throwing and then coiling ?
You can "throw" the coiled section gently, you might get more height this
way.
Why are you choosing to do this? You mention choosing to work within the
limitations of the material, why ? what are you trying to do/prove ?
What do your tutors say? I am very interested.
Good luck,
Pat Southwood
pat@southwood4.fsnet.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam"
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 1:49 PM
Subject: Egyptian Paste
> Hey,
> Im studying for a BA Hons in Ceramics and one of my current projects is
> Egyptian Paste. I have chosen to find the limitations of egyptian paste
> when throwing with it. I have thrown a small amount of paste to the hight
> of aprox 3 inches.
>
> The problems i am having is that it breaks/ crumbles, i have been told
> that adding something like wallpaper paste will help.
>
> This is a new area of Ceramics for me and would appreciate any help anyone
> has to offer.
>
> Thanks
>
> Adam
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Pat Southwood on tue 16 sep 08
Hi,
Does anyone have a simple, reliable receipe/method for Egyptian paste, =
and is it O.K. fired in oxidisation because of the bicarb?
I can find a lot of receipes but need to advise a student of a good one =
to start experimenting with, and I have no experience with this medium.
Cheers,
Pat Southwood.
(Busy packing 100 little bottles for Ceramics in the City this wekend.
www.geffryemuseum.co.uk)
May Luk on tue 16 sep 08
Hello Pat;
I played with it once with the recipe in the Potters Dictionary. It was ver=
y very short though. I rolled a slab and made some buttons, that's all. I c=
ouldn't make anything fancy with the short and powdery "paste". I did fired=
it in an electric kiln.=20
Have a good show at the Geffrye Museum. Ceramics in the City is such a good=
show at a good venue. My ex-glaze buddy Linda Bloomfield is in it too. I u=
sed to go to a Vietnamese resturant after Geffrye. (Kingston Road?)
Regards
May
Brooklyn NY
=20
--- On Tue, 16/9/08, Pat Southwood wrote:
> From: Pat Southwood
> Subject: Egyptian paste
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Tuesday, 16 September, 2008, 3:47 PM
> Hi,
> Does anyone have a simple, reliable receipe/method for
> Egyptian paste, and is it O.K. fired in oxidisation because
> of the bicarb?
>=20
> I can find a lot of receipes but need to advise a student
> of a good one to start experimenting with, and I have no
> experience with this medium.
>=20
> Cheers,
> Pat Southwood.
> (Busy packing 100 little bottles for Ceramics in the City
> this wekend.
> www.geffryemuseum.co.uk)=0A=0A=0A
Julie Brooks on sat 26 sep 09
Linda,
If you don't have your heart set on formulating it yourself, Laguna has=
=3D
both=3D20
a white and the blue Egyptian paste in dry form.=3D20=3D20
I am commenting because I recently made some amulets and earrings out o=
=3D
f=3D20
it. I found the white is easily colored with mason stain, so I did purpl=
=3D
e and=3D20
yellow also. Dry on a bed of fine mesh clean sand.
There are a couple ways to fire. Of course the important thing is not =
=3D
to=3D20
disturb the layer of salts deposited as the piece dries since they will c=
=3D
reate=3D20
the self glazing when the piece fires. Make a bed of sand on your kiln s=
=3D
helf=3D20
(be sure to make it thick enough) dry and fire on the same shelf. You ca=
=3D
n=3D20
also make pieces with holes and fire on a kiln shelf as follows. Take som=
=3D
e=3D20
heavy gauge nichrome wire, lay across some kiln posts. Take lighter nich=
=3D
rome=3D20
and make little S hooks. Lift your dry pieces by tilting up with a fetli=
=3D
ng knife=3D20
and hooking with the S hook. Then hang the other side of the S hook over=
=3D
=3D20
the heavy wire and fire them up. I always have a few which don't make it=
=3D
so=3D20
I spread sand under the hanger to save the kiln shelf underneath.
It is gooey historical fun.
Julie Brooks
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