Vikki Dow on mon 3 mar 97
We have a new Skutt 1027 electric kiln. We're used to firing in reduction
(at the college studio), so we're adjusting to the changes. Does anyone
have any glaze advice? We are having some trouble finding glazes to get
excited about. All of our recipes work so much nicer in reduction! If you
have any oxidation recipes that come out great, please let us know. Also -
I'm scared to see what our electric bill will be after using this kiln.
Anyone have any figures to give me an idea what we'll be dealing with?
Thanks!
Stilltree Pottery
Oakland, California
Cindy Gatto on tue 3 apr 01
Dear Sue:
In all reality you do not have to vent the kiln if you will
have it in a shed where no one will be while it is firing. I would not advise
it though, you will get brighter colors and cleaner firings with the vent and
you do eventually have to go into the shed. Yes they do come apart and very
easily, you could take it apart and move it with your van or suv very easily.
As far as ITC we do not use it so i don't know. Also consider buying a kiln
with the 3inch walls instead of the 2 1/2 inch for better insulating. Also in
fact the kiln sections usually just sit on top of each other. The skutts now
buckle together but thats it. So there is no need to transport it in one
piece. Good luck with your new kiln.
Sincerely:
Mark&Cindy
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan ave.
Brooklyn NY 11206
718-218-9424
Mudpitnyc@aol.com
www.Mudpitnyc.com
Sue Beach on tue 3 apr 01
Hi all.
I am looking at buying my first kiln 'cause the ceramics supplier nearest
me has them on sale in April for 30% off. I've been saving for one for
awhile.
I'm looking at an electric that fires to ^10 and is 22" in diameter & 27"
deep. It weighs 215 lbs.
My questions:
We are planning to put this outside in a shed that will be used only for
the kiln. Is a vent necessary? Does venting the kiln improve the firing?
I know that if I had the kiln in my work space, a vent would be necessary,
but since it will be outside the house, we wondered if it could be omitted.
Do they really come apart? It looks like it is in sections in the catalog.
I'm asking 'cause we are trying to decide how to get it the 60 miles from
the store to our house. Is it reasonable to think we could take the
sections apart and haul it in our SUV or van? Or should we be looking at
finding a trailer and leaving it in one piece?
Also, how do I find out about ITC? Can I use it on the shelves instead of
that pesky kiln wash?
Sorry if these are simplistic questions, but I've never been in a position
to seriously consider buying a kiln until now.
Thanks.
Sue Beach
Muncie, Indiana
C TRIPP on wed 4 apr 01
Hi Sue,
Yes, get a vent even though you won't be working in the same area as the
kiln. When I was researching whether or not to buy a vent, everything
I read pointed to the firing benefits of having one.
Call the dealer to see if the kiln is sectional.
ITC works well to protect shelves but also get some ITC 200 ceramic filler
to fill in the holes in the kiln shelves after you have filed off the really
stubborn, big spills with your Dremel. Then you paint the ITC 100 over the
filler and you are ready to go again.
I think that a few hours spent in the Archives will pay - I wish I had done
so before I purchased my kiln. If you don't already know, there are two
archive sites; www.potters.org/categories.htm and www.ceramics.org/clayart.
The former has things organised by topic and the latter (after you click
once more to get the the archives) lets you fill in the topic, either with
the specific word to be found anywhere in any email or just in the subject
line. You will end up with LOTS of opinions; more than you will get in
current replies. And you will also get lots of useful information,
sometimes not even what you were searching for!
Good luck, Carol
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Karen Lookenott on wed 4 apr 01
Sue,
I currently have 2 kilns in a small storage building out back. Neither of
them have a kiln vent. Both of them work really well. I never stay in the
building when they are firing because of the heat and fumes; however, I have
not had any problems without a vent. My friend, who is a full time potter,
does have a kiln vent on her Skutt. As far as I can tell, there isn't any
difference in the appearance of our work, as far as glaze coloring, etc. is
concerned.
Second, the kilns sections do come apart. Each section is very fragile and
if you are going to have it ride that way, you are going to want to make
sure the sections are not bouncing around. The firebrick in the kilns may
be damaged if they do. You might want to check Bennetts Pottery prices
before you purchase. You may be able to order the kiln from them and pay
for the shipping and still spend less money than what you are spending on
the kiln. I just did some pricing myself on a larger kiln and found I can
save 400.00 over the price of the one I can buy locally and the shipping is
only 180.00.
I guess that's all the questions I can address. In my opinion, even though
some of the questions on this group are treated rather bluntly and
critically, there is no such thing as a simplistic question. You should
always feel free to ask your questions. That's how we learn and grow in
anything we do.
Hope this helps,
Karen Lookenott
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Sue Beach
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 12:33 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Electric Kiln Questions
Hi all.
I am looking at buying my first kiln 'cause the ceramics supplier nearest
me has them on sale in April for 30% off. I've been saving for one for
awhile.
I'm looking at an electric that fires to ^10 and is 22" in diameter & 27"
deep. It weighs 215 lbs.
My questions:
We are planning to put this outside in a shed that will be used only for
the kiln. Is a vent necessary? Does venting the kiln improve the firing?
I know that if I had the kiln in my work space, a vent would be necessary,
but since it will be outside the house, we wondered if it could be omitted.
Do they really come apart? It looks like it is in sections in the catalog.
I'm asking 'cause we are trying to decide how to get it the 60 miles from
the store to our house. Is it reasonable to think we could take the
sections apart and haul it in our SUV or van? Or should we be looking at
finding a trailer and leaving it in one piece?
Also, how do I find out about ITC? Can I use it on the shelves instead of
that pesky kiln wash?
Sorry if these are simplistic questions, but I've never been in a position
to seriously consider buying a kiln until now.
Thanks.
Sue Beach
Muncie, Indiana
____________________________________________________________________________
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melpots@pclink.com.
Jonathan Kirkendall on wed 4 apr 01
Hi Sue,
A vent that goes underneath the kiln (like KilnVent) will also even out the
firing. I was amazed what a difference it made in my kiln when I added it -
it really equalized the firing between the bottom shelf and the top shelf.
If the kiln is sectional, it should fit. I took my kiln apart and carried
it in my Saturn!!! One section per seat, the lid and floor in the trunk!
Jonathan in DC
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Sue Beach
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 12:33 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Electric Kiln Questions
Hi all.
I am looking at buying my first kiln 'cause the ceramics supplier nearest
me has them on sale in April for 30% off. I've been saving for one for
awhile.
I'm looking at an electric that fires to ^10 and is 22" in diameter & 27"
deep. It weighs 215 lbs.
My questions:
We are planning to put this outside in a shed that will be used only for
the kiln. Is a vent necessary? Does venting the kiln improve the firing?
I know that if I had the kiln in my work space, a vent would be necessary,
but since it will be outside the house, we wondered if it could be omitted.
Do they really come apart? It looks like it is in sections in the catalog.
I'm asking 'cause we are trying to decide how to get it the 60 miles from
the store to our house. Is it reasonable to think we could take the
sections apart and haul it in our SUV or van? Or should we be looking at
finding a trailer and leaving it in one piece?
Also, how do I find out about ITC? Can I use it on the shelves instead of
that pesky kiln wash?
Sorry if these are simplistic questions, but I've never been in a position
to seriously consider buying a kiln until now.
Thanks.
Sue Beach
Muncie, Indiana
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Arnold Howard on wed 4 apr 01
Mark and Cindy mention 2 1/2 and 3" wall electric kilns (see
below). Paragon is now offering a 12-sided kiln with 2 1/2"
firebricks and 1" of block insulation. If you were at NCECA, you
may have seen this kiln. It is the one that had the blue switch box
in the open position.
I want to thank our many friends on Clayart for telling us what you
wanted in a kiln. It is because of your feedback that we designed
the Viking II-27.
With best wishes,
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Cindy Gatto wrote:
> Dear Sue:
Also consider
> buying a kiln
> with the 3inch walls instead of the 2 1/2 inch for better
> insulating.
>
> Sincerely:
> Mark&Cindy
> The Mudpit
> 228 Manhattan ave.
> Brooklyn NY 11206
> 718-218-9424
> Mudpitnyc@aol.com
> www.Mudpitnyc.com
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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william schran on thu 5 apr 01
I'd put some kind of venting in the shed cause it's going to get darn
hot in there. Most electric kilns come in sections, take the van for
ease of loading/unloading. Make certain you have the electric
capabilities before buying.
Bill
BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics on thu 6 sep 07
Hey All, I've got a couple electric kiln/electricity related questions.
I've got an old Skutt 181 with 2 rings (and a spacer) that I'd like to use
for bisc and some low fire glazing. I bought it used and the inside parts of
the cone sitter seems to be broken. Anyone know where I can find a diagram
of what it should look like (it's just a small metal rod coming through a
hole in the bricks right now) and where I could buy a replacement from?
Also, in testing this with my electrician, this small rod touched an on/hot
coil that was hanging down, causing the element to arc weld it's self on to
the rod and burn out the coil. Are all replacements created equal and does
anyone have suggestions on where to buy replacements?
I also have a really old Paragon A66B which has has a new plug put on the
end (standard dryer plug). It is wired up to a socket that has 10 gauge 3
wire cord with 2 covered and 1 bare ground which is wired up in the box as
240 on 2 20 amp circuts. When we tested it, it was pulling 13amp on both the
coverd wires but it was tossing .4amp over to the bare ground, so my
electrician didn't deem that safe and unhooked it. Anyone know if I can
rewire the kiln it's self to remedy this? I'd rather do that then have to
buy/re-run the wire. Any tips on what to tell my electrician? He didn't feel
comfortable just digging around in the interior without some sort of idea of
what he was looking for.
Third, anyone have a suggestion on a pyrometer to buy that we could use to
do crystalline glazes in these kilns (which don't have computerized
controllers). We'd like to buy something that could also be used later, with
higher quality thermocouples, in a gas/soda or wood kiln, so something with
easily swappable wires would be awesome.
Thanks,
--
BJ Clark
Stinking Desert Ceramics
bjclark@stinkingdesert.com
www.stinkingdesert.com
Arnold Howard on fri 7 sep 07
From: "BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics"
I bought it used and the inside parts of
> the cone sitter seems to be broken. Anyone know where I
> can find a diagram
> of what it should look like
We have listed Dawson Kiln Sitter manuals here:
http://www.paragonweb.com/Instruction_Manuals.cfm
(Or go to www.paragonweb.com and select "Support" and then
"Instruction Manuals" from the drop down menu.)
Manuals are listed in alphabetical order.
(it's just a small metal rod coming through a
> hole in the bricks right now) and where I could buy a
> replacement from?
I would order the Kiln Sitter porcelain tube assembly from
Skutt since they will sell you the correct one for your
kiln.
> Also, in testing this with my electrician, this small rod
> touched an on/hot
> coil that was hanging down, causing the element to arc
> weld it's self on to
You should guide the bulging elements back into their
grooves before firing your kiln. You can do that with a
propane torch. It takes about 5 minutes per bulge. Otherwise
the elements will gradually bulge out farther.
> I also have a really old Paragon A66B which has has a new
> plug put on the
> end (standard dryer plug). When we tested it, it was
> pulling 13amp on both the
> coverd wires but it was tossing .4amp over to the bare
> ground,
Your electrician was wise not to run the kiln. It was
designed for a 4-wire system. Someone has replaced the cord
to run the kiln on a 3-wire system. In doing so, they tied
the grounding wire to the line neutral. But the line neutral
carries current.
When the A-66B was in production, this problem was often
discussed, especially at our maintenance seminars.
You can download the A & B Series Instruction & Service
Manual at the link shown above. The electrical section
covers this topic in detail.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Taylor Hendrix on fri 7 sep 07
Yehaw BJ,
No, sitter parts are not all created equal. The ceramic tube is made
to different lengths for different wall thicknesses. These things are
easy to repair and I suspect that the end of the ceramic tube has
broken off. The tube should enter the kiln at least an inch or so past
the inside wall unless I'm crazy. I found a pdf for dalton sitters
long ago and have them printed out. I believe Paragon's site may have
links to it and you can order sitter parts from them as well.
On the A66B, Paragon also has the manuals for that kiln. They will
include the equipment needs for wiring. I think you need a 3/1 wire
for that kiln but again I'm talking out of my butt right now. Seems
you need a neutral AND a grounding wire to be kosher. Rewire the
supply, buddy. It's a hit, but electrical fire/electrocution sucks.
I got a Fluke thermometer on ebay awhile back. I made sure it was the
model that would measure the temps I wanted. Was able to get it for
about 80 bucks less than the going price quoted at online stores. My
model can read two thermocouples. The newer model can even save temp
curves for you. I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there but Fluke is
a good name and the unit is made for daily use. I think there are
issues with trying to read two thermocouples from the same unit in the
same kiln. I'm unsure what is up with that other than interference
blah blah.
BJ, you should see the work of this guy Daniel Johnston. Holy crap,
his stuff is good. I would have loved to have walked around the show
with you and talked about it. I didn't know anyone there except Louis
and you can't talk to Louis when he's in a crowd as you well know!
Tay Tay, in Rock Rock
Hank Taylor on fri 7 sep 07
Subject: Electric Kiln Questions
BJ , here is my two cents worth
> I've got an old Skutt 181 with 2 rings (and a spacer) that I'd like to =
use
> for bisc and some low fire glazing. I bought it used and the inside =
parts of
> the cone sitter seems to be broken. Anyone know where I can find a =
diagram
Go to www.kilnsitter.com=20
you can get a breakdown on the W.P Dawson kilnsitters . If it is =
in pretty bad shape ( and it sounds as if it is ) the best thing to do =
would be a complete replacement.
=20
> I also have a really old Paragon A66B which has has a new plug put on =
the
> electrician didn't deem that safe and unhooked it. Anyone know if I =
can
> rewire the kiln it's self to remedy this? I'd rather do that=20
www.paragonweb.com
If you go to the paragon kiln web site you can get the wiring diagrams =
for any model they have and almost any part you might need
and by looking up the different models of that general size, you may =
find one that would work with your outlet wires. Some of the older ones =
used 110 v coils and used a dedicated neutral along with a bonded ground =
wire. The reason you got that .4 amp reading is that the plug socket is =
wired just to allow 220 v to be used and the kiln was using the bare =
copper wire to make 110v circuits( That is very unsafe) .To wire it as =
it is now will require the addition of another coated wire of white =
coloring . The weirdest thing is that at the breaker box the bare wire =
and the neutral are hooked up to the pole ground. I have dealt with =
paragon several times in the last 2 yrs. and have always gotten good =
service . I bought an A99 and a TNF 234 also used during that time and =
when I called paragon, I got every question answered promptly. I =
rewired the a99 and replaced the old dtc1000 controller on the other one =
with a orton 3000 and next spring I will be putting the dtc1000 =
controller on the A99.
=20
> a pyrometer to buy that we could use to
> do crystalline glazes in these kilns (which don't have computerized
> controllers). We'd like to buy something that could also be used =
later, with
> higher quality thermocouples, in a gas/soda or wood kiln, so something =
with
> easily swappable wires would be awesome.
I just bought an analog pyrometer for the old A99. It was a poor =
choice, which is why I will put the dtc1000 on it. Digital would be =
much better. If you will be using these for crystalline glazes It would =
make more sense to me to buy one of the on the wall digital firing =
controllers , you would get a good pyrometer with the firing control and =
make it easier to hold the temps steady in the kilns , just turn the =
kiln switches to high and plug it into the controller.=20
hope this helped,
Hank
Woodshed Pottery
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>=20
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>=20
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots2@visi.com
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