Nils Lou on sat 29 mar 97
Noting the recent discussion on elements I offer this suggestion: When you
are planning to replace elements coat the new ones with a special metal
coating made by International Technical Ceramics called ITC 213. I am
using it on elements in a small AIM test kiln in which I routinely fire to
cone ten reduction (with propane). I occasionally spray in soda ash for
sodium effects as well. I think the ITC213 coating will at least double
the
element life in the "normal" firing. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
Nils
LINDA BLOSSOM on sun 30 mar 97
Whoa there! I thought we were using the itc 100 and spraying it on
elements and bricks...Now there is another coating that should have gone on
the elements? Nils, please clarify! This is getting dizzying!
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-539-7912
blossom@lightlink.com
http://www.artscape.com
Sheila Clennell on sun 30 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Noting the recent discussion on elements I offer this suggestion: When you
>are planning to replace elements coat the new ones with a special metal
>coating made by International Technical Ceramics called ITC 213. I am
>using it on elements in a small AIM test kiln in which I routinely fire to
>cone ten reduction (with propane). I occasionally spray in soda ash for
>sodium effects as well. I think the ITC213 coating will at least double
>the
>element life in the "normal" firing. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
>Nils
More on elements- We have used ITC 213 on pieces of steel and fired them
to Cone 10 in our reduction kiln. The steel melted into the piece of
insulating brick where it was uncoated and the coated section was perfectly
fine. I haved sprayed our electric kiln elements with ITC and am using it
on the grates of our wood kiln. Without coating the grates don't have a
long life. I am convinced they will last a long time with the coating. For
those that use an elcetric kiln alot I can only see that coating the
elements with ITC will save you money in the long haul.
For information on ITC products contact Alice Delkic- President Phone (904)
285- 0200 or fax (904) 273-1616
Long may your chimney smoke!
Tony Clennell
Potter
Nils Lou on mon 31 mar 97
ITC 100 is a fine base coating for kilns, electric or otherwise. Indeed,
use it to coat the inside of your electric kiln and elements. But, if to
are replacing elements coat the new ones with ITC 213 which is a special
metal coating. It will greatly extend the element life. Then coat with ITC
100. If you want to extend the protection even more spray on a coating of
ITC 296A after firing the 100 once or twice. For more information write to
ITC and they will send you details. I will be presenting more information
on this and CGHUC refractory coatings at NCECA--Nils
On Sun, 30 Mar 1997, LINDA BLOSSOM wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Whoa there! I thought we were using the itc 100 and spraying it on
> elements and bricks...Now there is another coating that should have gone on
> the elements? Nils, please clarify! This is getting dizzying!
>
> Linda Blossom
> 2366 Slaterville Rd.
> Ithaca, NY 14850
> 607-539-7912
> blossom@lightlink.com
> http://www.artscape.com
>
Paul Monaghan on mon 31 mar 97
Sheila Clennell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Noting the recent discussion on elements I offer this suggestion: When you
> >are planning to replace elements coat the new ones with a special metal
> >coating made by International Technical Ceramics called ITC 213. I am
> >using it on elements in a small AIM test kiln in which I routinely fire to
> >cone ten reduction (with propane). I occasionally spray in soda ash for
> >sodium effects as well. I think the ITC213 coating will at least double
> >the
> >element life in the "normal" firing. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
> >Nils
>
> More on elements- We have used ITC 213 on pieces of steel and fired them
> to Cone 10 in our reduction kiln. The steel melted into the piece of
> insulating brick where it was uncoated and the coated section was perfectly
> fine. I haved sprayed our electric kiln elements with ITC and am using it
> on the grates of our wood kiln. Without coating the grates don't have a
> long life. I am convinced they will last a long time with the coating. For
> those that use an elcetric kiln alot I can only see that coating the
> elements with ITC will save you money in the long haul.
> For information on ITC products contact Alice Delkic- President Phone (904)
> 285- 0200 or fax (904) 273-1616
> Long may your chimney smoke!
> Tony Clennell
> Potter
Tony,
How did you get steel to melt at cone 10? Are you sure it melted??
Paul
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com
The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB
"The Computer Secrets are hidden at www.web2u.com/secret"
Dave and Mary Kuilema on mon 31 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Noting the recent discussion on elements I offer this suggestion: When you
>are planning to replace elements coat the new ones with a special metal
>coating made by International Technical Ceramics called ITC 213. I am
>using it on elements in a small AIM test kiln in which I routinely fire to
>cone ten reduction (with propane). I occasionally spray in soda ash for
>sodium effects as well. I think the ITC213 coating will at least double
>the
>element life in the "normal" firing. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
>Nils
Hi Nils,
I recently repaired an aging Scutt kiln, and the tech I spoke with
at Scutt was openly negative about my coating the elements with an ITC
coating, siting the probability of having the coating seal and insulate
the elements and the heat then produced would overheat the element and
shorten its life. This is assuming that I would be using the elements to
heat the kiln. Are you firing the Aim kiln electrically, too, alternately
with propane?
I ended up coating my kiln with ITC 100 on the bricks and top
(which was cracked) and putting fresh elements in after the coating had
dried. My first firing is in the kiln now, and I am not seeing the quicker,
more efficient firing I had hoped for with the ITC 100 helping to insulate
the bricks.
Still praying for spring in Michigan,
mary
Marget and Peter Lippincott on wed 2 apr 97
Dave and Mary Kuilema wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Noting the recent discussion on elements I offer this suggestion: When you
> >are planning to replace elements coat the new ones with a special metal
> >coating made by International Technical Ceramics called ITC 213. I am
> >using it on elements in a small AIM test kiln in which I routinely fire to
> >cone ten reduction (with propane). I occasionally spray in soda ash for
> >sodium effects as well. I think the ITC213 coating will at least double
> >the
> >element life in the "normal" firing. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
> >Nils
> Hi Nils,
> I recently repaired an aging Scutt kiln, and the tech I spoke with
> at Scutt was openly negative about my coating the elements with an ITC
> coating, siting the probability of having the coating seal and insulate
> the elements and the heat then produced would overheat the element and
> shorten its life. This is assuming that I would be using the elements to
> heat the kiln. Are you firing the Aim kiln electrically, too, alternately
> with propane?
> I ended up coating my kiln with ITC 100 on the bricks and top
> (which was cracked) and putting fresh elements in after the coating had
> dried. My first firing is in the kiln now, and I am not seeing the quicker,
> more efficient firing I had hoped for with the ITC 100 helping to insulate
> the bricks.
> Still praying for spring in Michigan,
> mary
I just talked to Chris at Euclid's Elements yesterday and he was
evasively negative about using ITC213 on elements. That is, he said
they did not recommend or sell 213, but when it came to the why he said
(paraphrased)"I don't want to get into that." ???
Peter Lippincott, the mudpuppy, dordog@cei.net
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal on wed 2 apr 97
Paul>
Paul I have had elements melting into the fire bricks. I
can believe that steel, where it is against the brickwork,
can melt. There is no space for the heat to dissipate and
the bricks radiate the heat back, so the temperature can
get awfully high. That is one reason why I always double
over the connecting ends of elements. It helps to keep
the elements from breaking as there is a double wire
carrying the load then the ends do not get as hot. Hope
this helps Ralph in a very cool Autumn (Fall) morning in
PE SA
Boyd on wed 2 apr 97
>I just talked to Chris at Euclid's Elements yesterday and he was
>evasively negative about using ITC213 on elements. That is, he said
>they did not recommend or sell 213, but when it came to the why he said
>(paraphrased)"I don't want to get into that." ???
>Peter Lippincott, the mudpuppy, dordog@cei.net
Peter,
I'm only a potter but it sounds like Chris is a company man. Elements that
burn out more quickly need to be replaced more often. More elements sold,
more profit for Euclid. I can only hope I'm jumping to conclusions.
Boyd
Iron River MI
Paul Monaghan on thu 3 apr 97
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> Paul>
>
> Paul I have had elements melting into the fire bricks. I
> can believe that steel, where it is against the brickwork,
> can melt. There is no space for the heat to dissipate and
> the bricks radiate the heat back, so the temperature can
> get awfully high. That is one reason why I always double
> over the connecting ends of elements. It helps to keep
> the elements from breaking as there is a double wire
> carrying the load then the ends do not get as hot. Hope
> this helps Ralph in a very cool Autumn (Fall) morning in
> PE SA
Hi Ralph,
Interesting but reradiation, contained in brick won't do it. I don't
have time right now (after midnight) but I will try to get back to you
if there really is an interest.
Ciao,
Paul
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com
The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB
"The Computer Secrets are hidden at www.web2u.com/secret"
Michael Hart on sun 22 jun 97
Hi all,
I wrote earlier concerning a glaze firing in which my cones never moved.
Since that time I checked all my elements to make sure they were
producing heat and not broken, checked my plug and fuses but have not
taken any voltage measurements.(Not sure how to do this) Also installed
a pyrometer.
Yesterday I did my first glaze firing with it..electric cone 6.
Everything was fine until 1900F. Then no more movement. Finally after
many hours of no movement I shut it off.
My question is this. I've never replaced the kiln elements and before
these last two firings I have never had any trouble with the kiln going
to temperature. How often do you replace your elements? Does this
sound like it might be the problem? I am hesitant that all the sudden I
might have a current/amperage problem but I don't really know.. Has
anyone else experienced this? My husband thinks I might have a bad
connection in the switch and we are going to check that.
The kiln is about 3 years old, L&L, not fired on any consistent schedule
and has probably only seen about 30 cone 6 firings. Most of them
in the last year.
Thanks for all your input and help. I learn a lot from this group!!
Cindy
mh2166@rscs.net
Fred Paget on mon 23 jun 97
Some small kilns are wired so that two elements rated for 120 volts are
hooked in series across the 240 volt line and a third 120 volt element is
hooked from one side of the 240 line to the neutral giving 120 volts on
that one element. If you have had a break in the neutral the third element
won't heat up.
Check that, also if the elements are getting really old they reach a point
where they thin down from oxidation of the wire so that they have a higher
than normal resistance and don't heat up enough to get the kiln up to
temperature. The cure for that is a new set of elements.
A substantial drop in line voltage can mimic the symptoms also. You should
have the voltage checked at the kiln while it is on drawing current and
while it is off. More than about 5 volts difference in the readings can
indicate a problem, such as a loose connection somewhere or just too much
length of smallish wire in the kiln electric supply.
If you don't have any idea of how to take a voltage measurement I would
recommend that you have somebody knowlegeable do it for you and show you
what to do.
> Michael Hart wrote:
>... concerning a glaze firing in which my cones never moved.....
>...Yesterday I did my first glaze firing with it..electric cone 6.
>Everything was fine until 1900F. Then no more movement. Finally after
>many hours of no movement I shut it off.
>.. I've never replaced the kiln elements and before
>these last two firings I have never had any trouble with the kiln going
>to temperature.
Fred Paget---Mill Valley,CA,USA
Never try, never win!
Ken Russell on mon 23 jun 97
Cindy,
Last winter the city was providing me with 223 volts when it should have
been 240. This will kill your elements and will cause your kiln to do what
you described. If you have done the element "glow" test (turned elements on
high with the lid open to see if they all start to glow), and they pass,
it's probably not your elements...yet. Your kiln is trying to achieve a
certain temp. If the voltage is too low, it'll never get there and hang
up. Firing your kiln with low voltage is not good for your elements and
can shorten their life most ricky-tick. Definitely call your power company
and make them take readings where the power lines attach to your meter. If
it's low, they have to fix it. If not, beg them to take a voltage reading
at your plug (you can do this with a cheapo-deepo meter purchased at the
hardware store). If it's low between the meter and your plug, call an
electrician to find the problem and get it fixed. If you've tried to get
your kiln up to temp several times and kept it on high without it reaching
the desired temp (and you know your elements work), you are killing your
elements. Stop doing that. If you've already done it, you probably need new
elements after the voltage problem is fixed. I got to replace elements for
three 10 cf Skutts last winter, lost 8 production firing days plus the cost
of the elements. OUCH!!!!
Ken Russell
The Arlington Pottery
gone2pot@iw.net
stevemills on tue 24 jun 97
Cindy
I had the same problem a few years back, i.e sudden inability to make
temperature. The cure I was given worked! I vacuumed the elements with
the crevice tool on my Hoover very thoroughly, result= rejuvination of
firing performance. I now vacuum after every 12 or so firings. If it was
worn out elements the deterioration of performance would have been much
more gradual.
Steve.
(copy to Clayart)
In message , Michael Hart writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi all,
>
>I wrote earlier concerning a glaze firing in which my cones never moved.
>Since that time I checked all my elements to make sure they were
>producing heat and not broken, checked my plug and fuses but have not
>taken any voltage measurements.(Not sure how to do this) Also installed
>a pyrometer.
>Yesterday I did my first glaze firing with it..electric cone 6.
>Everything was fine until 1900F. Then no more movement. Finally after
>many hours of no movement I shut it off.
>
>My question is this. I've never replaced the kiln elements and before
>these last two firings I have never had any trouble with the kiln going
>to temperature. How often do you replace your elements? Does this
>sound like it might be the problem? I am hesitant that all the sudden I
>might have a current/amperage problem but I don't really know.. Has
>anyone else experienced this? My husband thinks I might have a bad
>connection in the switch and we are going to check that.
>
>The kiln is about 3 years old, L&L, not fired on any consistent schedule
>and has probably only seen about 30 cone 6 firings. Most of them
>in the last year.
>
>Thanks for all your input and help. I learn a lot from this group!!
>Cindy
>mh2166@rscs.net
>
--
Steve Mills
@Bath Potters Supplies
Dorset Close
Bath
BA2 3RF
UK
Tel:(44) (0)1225 337046
Fax:(44) (0)1225 462712
Paul Monaghan on wed 25 jun 97
Ken Russell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Cindy,
>
> Last winter the city was providing me with 223 volts when it should have
> been 240. This will kill your elements and will cause your kiln to do what
> you described. If you have done the element "glow" test (turned elements on
> high with the lid open to see if they all start to glow), and they pass,
> it's probably not your elements...yet. Your kiln is trying to achieve a
> certain temp. If the voltage is too low, it'll never get there and hang
> up. Firing your kiln with low voltage is not good for your elements and
> can shorten their life most ricky-tick. Definitely call your power company
> and make them take readings where the power lines attach to your meter. If
> it's low, they have to fix it. If not, beg them to take a voltage reading
> at your plug (you can do this with a cheapo-deepo meter purchased at the
> hardware store). If it's low between the meter and your plug, call an
> electrician to find the problem and get it fixed. If you've tried to get
> your kiln up to temp several times and kept it on high without it reaching
> the desired temp (and you know your elements work), you are killing your
> elements. Stop doing that. If you've already done it, you probably need new
> elements after the voltage problem is fixed. I got to replace elements for
> three 10 cf Skutts last winter, lost 8 production firing days plus the cost
> of the elements. OUCH!!!!
>
> Ken Russell
> The Arlington Pottery
> gone2pot@iw.net
Ken,
Reduced voltage as in "brown-outs" will reduce the power dissipated by
the elements (they won't run as hot) but it won't hurt them or shorten
their life - just the opposite.
paul
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com
The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB
"The Computer Secrets are hidden at http://www.web2u.com/secret"
"HOMO CLAYARTUS" is alive at http://www.web2u.com/clayart
Ken Russell on thu 26 jun 97
Paul J. Monaghan wrote:
>>Reduced voltage as in "brown-outs" will reduce the power dissipated by
>>the elements (they won't run as hot) but it won't hurt them or shorten
>>their life - just the opposite.
Perhaps the Skutt folks who told me my elements were fried due to low
supply voltage, could read this and 'splain.
Ken Russell
The Arlington Pottery
gone2pot@iw.net
Paul Monaghan on fri 27 jun 97
Ken Russell wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Paul J. Monaghan wrote:
>
> >>Reduced voltage as in "brown-outs" will reduce the power dissipated by
> >>the elements (they won't run as hot) but it won't hurt them or shorten
> >>their life - just the opposite.
>
> Perhaps the Skutt folks who told me my elements were fried due to low
> supply voltage, could read this and 'splain.
>
> Ken Russell
> The Arlington Pottery
> gone2pot@iw.net
Hi Ken,
Yep. Send Skutt the message and if they have any questions have them
call or email me. The power dissipated, or heat, is equal to the
voltage squared divided by the resistance. P=E*2/R so you can see that
as the voltage goes down so does the heat or power dissipated. For all
practical purposes the resistance of the elements remains constant.
Now you really didn't expect Skutt to take the blame if they can blame
the power company - no I don't work for any power companies.
Not that you really want to know all this but low voltages can shorten
the life of rotating machinery such as motors depending on the type.
This could be a long story so we'll let it go. But no the elemnts won't
be harmed.
Cheers,
Paul :-))
Paul :-)
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com
The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB
"The Computer Secrets are hidden at http://www.web2u.com/secret"
"HOMO CLAYARTUS" is alive at http://www.web2u.com/clayart
Lance Philip Strugar on sat 28 jun 97
Please refer to Paul's and Ken's quote below.
I can't reconcile the data given Ken by Skutt folks with either theory
or practical experience. First, an element which is primarily resistive
(recognizing a small inductive reactance component) will not be subject
to more stress by a lower voltage condition (and therefore less heat
dissipation). Second, the old three position switch versions connect
the elements in series intentionally at the LOW setting, effectively
halving the voltage to each element (and quartering the wattage).
Perhaps Ken's friends were talking about the effect of lengthening
firing time. This seems to me to be the only reason for extra wear
on the elements.
I'm using a Skutt 181 in my home. It is designed for 240 volts, and
consumes 4600 watt at the highest settings. Before I purchased it,
it had been used in a commercial building where the closest thing to
240 volts was three phase 120, which comes out to 208 volts phase to
phase. This would be fairly close to a brown-out condition. The kiln
was fired regularly to cone 5 or 6 with no problems.
Like Ken, I would also be interested in an explanation of "low voltage
element degrading". Until such an explanation comes forth, I must
agree with Paul.
Lance Philip Strugar
Senior Project Engineer
McDonnell Douglas Corporation
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
> - Paul J. Monaghan:
>Reduced voltage as in "brown-outs" will reduce the power dissipated by
>the elements (they won't run as hot) but it won't hurt them or shorten
>their life - just the opposite.
> - Ken Russell:
>Perhaps the Skutt folks who told me my elements were fried due to low
>supply voltage, could read this and 'splain.
Dinah Collopy on thu 4 dec 97
Has anyone had any experience with elements from Euclid's Elements? There was
an article in Clay Times warning about repacement elements that came from a
vendor other than the original manufacturer. The author felt that there could
be a problem. He said only buy elements from "a reputable source".
Thanks for any input.
Dinah
David Woodin on fri 5 dec 97
Euclid is an excellent supplier and most of their elements are stretched to
fit the kiln and if available you can get heavy duty elements. The price is
better than the kiln mfg.
Vince Pitelka on fri 5 dec 97
>Has anyone had any experience with elements from Euclid's Elements? There was
>an article in Clay Times warning about repacement elements that came from a
>vendor other than the original manufacturer. The author felt that there could
>be a problem. He said only buy elements from "a reputable source".
>Thanks for any input.
>Dinah
Dinah -
Seems like not more than a month since I posted a message about Euclid's
elements. We have used them for all our electric kilns, including common
L&Ls and Paragons, and not-so-common old Unique frontloaders. The folks at
Euclids have always been most helpful, and we have gotten excellent service
from their products.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Caryl W. on wed 2 sep 98
I live in South Surrey,near White Rock,B.C. and I need some assistance
finding someone from this area or in the Lower Mainland who can help me
change elements on a Skutt 1027. If anyone out there in Clayart Land
from this area can recommend someone who is knowledgeable and reasonably
priced I would be forever grateful!Please either e-mail me directly at
lonepinepottery@hotmail.com or post to the list.
Caryl
______________________________________________________
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barbara arner on fri 23 aug 02
Hi
I am replacing my elements in my kiln right now. The old elements are very brittle. They break and come out only a couple inches at a time. Does anyone have any idea how old you would guess the elements to be? the kiln is about 25 years old. Just curious. Back to work...
-Barbara
william schran on sat 24 aug 02
Barbara asks about brittle elements and how old they might be - Could
be 25 years old (age of kiln) or a year old. Elements will become
more brittle due to number of firings AND how high they were fired,
not so much how long they've been in the kiln.
Bill
Snail Scott on sat 24 aug 02
At 07:57 PM 8/23/02 -0400, you wrote:
>...The old elements are very brittle. They break and come out only a
couple inches at a time. Does anyone have any idea how old you would guess
the elements to be?
They can get like that in just a few years of moderate use.
-Snail
Arnold Howard on mon 26 aug 02
The old elements usually come out of the grooves in long sections
even though they are brittle. They should not come out in 2"
sections. What type of kiln and element grooves do you have?
It is difficult to know the age of the elements by appearance
alone.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- barbara arner wrote:
> Hi
> I am replacing my elements in my kiln right now. The old elements
> are very brittle. They break and come out only a couple inches at
> a time. Does anyone have any idea how old you would guess the
> elements to be? the kiln is about 25 years old. Just curious.
> Back to work...
> -Barbara
>
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Ilene Mahler on sun 11 may 03
What would you do? Crystalline firings and bisque..Middle element out =
coated with ITC after 25 firing.( original elements un coated 31) My =
husband is the changer.Do I just replace 1 and order the whole set when =
the rest go replace them...Do I coat the new one with the ITC even tho I =
got less firings It comes out to between 1-2$ a pot for elements with =
the rate I'm using up the elements...I would just change them all but =
I'm not doing it the load fired to 2240 then died I got some =
crystals..Tiny there was no soaking cycle...Thanks...Ilene in Conn where =
the economy still is not good...Ilene
william schran on mon 12 may 03
Ilene asks about replacing 1 element that went out after 25 firings
or replace all that have undergone 31 firings (if I understood her
message)
I'd recommend replacing all of them since you are doing crystalline firing.
Regards the ITC coating for metals - I've replaced the elements in 2
kilns without coating them with ITC. Been having problems with
elements burning out, actually seem to arc, as the result has been a
burned out hole in the ceramic element holder (L&L kiln). I had asked
about this problem in an earlier message I sent - no responses. I now
believe that I was applying the ITC too thick.
Bill
Steve Parry-Thomas on mon 12 may 03
Hi,
There is some information about replacing element on our web site
http//www.morrigancraftpottery.co.uk
regards, Steve
Stephen & Karen Parry-Thomas
http://www.morrigancraftpottery.co.uk
steve@morrigancraftpottery.co.uk
morrigancp@aol.com
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Ilene Mahler on mon 12 may 03
Thanks for all the info ,spoke to Perry at Skutt,ordered the full set of =
elements and will replace them as they go one at a time ..It broke in =
the middle of the element....since I'm not doing the work we'll see how =
this works...Ilene in Conn
Mark R Lawrence on thu 5 oct 06
I make ELEMENTS for these KILNS:
AMACO,AIM,AMERICAN BEAUTY,COAST,CERAMICHROME,CONE ART,CRUCIBLE,CRUSADER,
CRESS,DUNCAN,ESTRIN,ECONO,EVENHEAT,GARE,GOODKILN,KENWHEEL,L/H,MACLENNAN,
OLYMPIC,PARAGON,SKUTT.
I also make custom elements for glass kilns and the ceramic industry.
CALL: MARK R LAWRENCE 604-854-4173 or fax 604-854-4176
or email: markrlawrence@shaw.ca
Mark R Lawrence on mon 25 oct 10
Elements custom made for any make and model of kiln.I was the lead hand f=
=3D
or
Estrin Manufacturing in Vancouver BC Canada for 24 years.When the company=
=3D
closed up I have continued to be of service for many potters and glass
blowers and ceramic studios.Supplying them with service to their kilns an=
=3D
d
supplying them with elements as needed.So if anyone needs technical
information or elements please call me at=3D20
604-856-4173 or cell 604-833-9200 email markrlawrence@shaw.ca.
Suchman ceramics on mon 25 apr 11
Just received my new elements from Euclid's. We'll see how easy the instal=
l
is shortly.
--
-e-in-o'side-
pagan by nature
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/42169721@N04/
William & Susan Schran User on tue 26 apr 11
On 4/25/11 8:43 PM, "Suchman ceramics" wrote:
> Just received my new elements from Euclid's. We'll see how easy the inst=
all
> is shortly.
Change one at a time.
Digital picture or label lead wires
Slow firing in empty kiln up to ^5 to seat elements in grooves and form
protective oxide layer.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Joan Klotz on tue 26 apr 11
You can do it! I'm 75 years old and not very handy around equipment
but I changed the elements in my L & L two weeks ago, so if I can you
can. Take Bill's advice, take a digital picture before you start,
label everything. Is there an instructional video for replacing
elements in your kiln? both Paragon and L & L do (both on YouTube),
very helpful since it takes some of the mystery out of it. If there
isn't one for your kiln look at the ones for other brands - they are
essentially the same animal. Take a deep breath and do it - don't
procrastinate as long as I did.
Regards, Joan Klotz.
At 05:21 AM 4/26/2011, William & Susan Schran User wrote:
>On 4/25/11 8:43 PM, "Suchman ceramics" wrote:
>
> > Just received my new elements from Euclid's. We'll see how easy
> the install
> > is shortly.
>
>Change one at a time.
>Digital picture or label lead wires
>Slow firing in empty kiln up to ^5 to seat elements in grooves and form
>protective oxide layer.
>
>Bill
>
>--
>William "Bill" Schran
>wschran@cox.net
>wschran@nvcc.edu
>http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
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