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faceting pots?

updated wed 31 jul 96

 

Candice Roeder on thu 25 jul 96

Hello all,

I would like to make some pots that are faceted, and not having approached
this before, I am hoping some of you may have some suggestions for how to go
about it...methods to try.

Do I use a cut-off wire, a cleaver, fettling knife, trimming tool, cheese
slicer or other tool, and do I do it wet or leather hard? Now, I imagine
one could simply answer "yes" to the previous question. But, I am hopeful I
get a few varied suggestions on what works for you, and anything special
that should be taken into consideration as far as thickness, termination etc.

I would like the facets to be soft appearing, and possibly "swirling around
the pot" to add a sense of movement. Wider facets, rather than fluting. I
happened to open up a December 1994 Ceramics Monthly (page 34), and the
effect achieved on the pot by Jim Connell is similar to what I'm after.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.

Candice Roeder
In Michigan

CaroleER@aol.com on fri 26 jul 96

I use a Sure-Form tool that you can get at Home Depot. It's designed for
shaving wood - but works great for clay. I facet the pots at the same time I
trim them. Whenever you try to square off a round form you're gonna have
thin spots. When I use a cheese slicer, knife, etc. I generally slice
through the pot. The Sur-Form gradually takes off the clay so you can feel
the thickness as you go. It also results in soft edges to the facets. To
get a swirl, shave the clay at a diagonal.

Carole Rishel
Bastrop, TX
CaroleER@aol.com

Jim Connell or set clayart mail on fri 26 jul 96


WINTHROP UNIVERSITY Electronic Mail Message
Date: 26-Jul-1996 08:52am EDT
From: James Connell
CONNELLJ
Dept: Art and Design
Tel No: 323-2126

TO: SMTP%"CLAYART@lsv.uky.edu" ( _SMTP%"CLAYART@lsv.uky.edu" )


Subject: RE: faceting pots?

Candice,

Faceting can be done many ways and each will produce its own unique look.
Anything that cuts can be used and at any stage(from wet to leather hard even to
the bisque and fired pot stage--power tools such as sanders and sandblaster are
needed for the latter). I must have tried ever way I could think of and then
some. My current way has evolved over the years. Throw the pot thicker than
normal but not too thick. A half inch thich is usually enough but as with
normal throwing, pots tend to be thicker at the bottom and thinner where the pot
bellies out. At the soft leather hard stage paddle the rough shape you desire.
For deeper cuts paddle more and you might have to go back and paddle it a few
times as the pot stiffens. You can use a flat paddle or a round cylindrical
paddle. I use a cut off handle of a shovel(Sears best). Then at the leather
hard stage I shave the clay away using a Stanley Surform blade(Stanley is much
better that the Master Mechanic blades). You can find them at most hardware
stores although I'm having a harder time finding the Stanley's in my neck of
the woods. The blades come in a variety if shapes with or without the handles.
They will become dull after awhile. The most common and useful for clay are the
flat ones(long or short) and the long convex (or is it concave) ones. As with
everthing practice makes perfect and all the little thing you can do to add to
the finished look will take time to discover and make the faceting become your
own.

The best advise I can give you is to start out simple and practice diferent
methods and build on your knowledge.


Jim

LINHARES on mon 29 jul 96

Hi Candice

Faceted pots need to be thrown thicker in proportion to the width of
the facet. I usually throw my goblet tops a little thicker than a
quarter of an inch and facet them right after I throw them with 10lb.
test fishing line. I find that the fishing line has very little
resistance when cutting through the clay and doesn't deform my pots.
After they are cut I round them out on the wheel and if the inside is
dryish the pot will twist and spiral the facets. Have Fun!

Paul in Ohio