Barbara Long on wed 30 jul 97
I've been asked by a friend to post a request for information. She is
interested in building a small, fast firing (like one day),wood burning
kiln and would like to know where to get plans for this kind of project.
Also she would like to know if the results are better firing bisqued or
once fired pieces? Please respond to my e-mail address and I will pass
the information on .TIA
Barbara in Lyme,Ct.
potluck@snet.net
MERKLEYS on tue 19 may 98
Does anyone have plans for or information on a fast fire wood kiln of
about 12cu.ft.? I fire only earthenware to cone2. thanks.
David Hendley on wed 20 may 98
In my experience, using a wood fired kiln for earthenware
would be a lot of trouble for no benefit.
In any wood kiln you will have ashes blowing around and
landing on the pots. At stoneware temperatures the ashes
flux and melt, but at earthenware temperatures they will
still be pieces of ash.
When I have bisque fired in my wood kiln I have to brush
off every piece when it's removed from the kiln. I hate to
think about all those ashes stuck in a glaze. I think you
would need to fire in saggers to avoid the problem.
The fast fire wood kiln presented in Fred Olsen's book "The
Kiln Book" is not much larger than 12 cu. ft. It could easily
be modified to a smaller size.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 08:36 AM 5/19/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does anyone have plans for or information on a fast fire wood kiln of
>about 12cu.ft.? I fire only earthenware to cone2. thanks.
>
MERKLEYS on sat 23 may 98
Thanks Dave for your suggestion of the olson book I'll see if my library
has a copy. As for ash in the glaze my work is unglazed I use only
washes, engobes or use surface marking for embellishment, but can dig
what your saying about ash maring the glaze, but at cone two would the
ash enter into the melt? I guess it would depend on the glaze used.
Right now I fire large containers in a crossdraft kiln made of the same
clay I use for throwing and sawdust, its lined with a mixture of
80percent silica sand (from an auto body shop-free)and fire clay.The
lining is about two inches thick and is still holding up after ten
firings. It takes however a long time to fire and is much to large to
use for anything but planters ect. Thus the need for a small kiln.
Thanks also Inga, the pots you discribe sound exactly what I'm trying to
do,would this person happen to be on the net?
Les Crimp on sun 24 may 98
Hi -
You can also look in Ceramics Monthly June/July/August 1996. On page 44
there is an article by David Swanson about a great small fast fire wood kiln
built and fired by Graham Sheehan of Gabriola Island in British Columbia
(one of our beautiful Gulf Islands).
I have seen Graham's work and it is really true to the wood-fired ethic.
Good Luck!!!!
Les Crimp in Nanoose Bay, B.C on Vancouver Island.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Thanks Dave for your suggestion of the olson book I'll see if my library
>has a copy. As for ash in the glaze my work is unglazed I use only
>washes, engobes or use surface marking for embellishment, but can dig
>what your saying about ash maring the glaze, but at cone two would the
>ash enter into the melt? I guess it would depend on the glaze used.
>Right now I fire large containers in a crossdraft kiln made of the same
>clay I use for throwing and sawdust, its lined with a mixture of
>80percent silica sand (from an auto body shop-free)and fire clay.The
>lining is about two inches thick and is still holding up after ten
>firings. It takes however a long time to fire and is much to large to
>use for anything but planters ect. Thus the need for a small kiln.
>Thanks also Inga, the pots you discribe sound exactly what I'm trying to
>do,would this person happen to be on the net?
>
>
gregg lindsley on thu 14 dec 00
Dear Andy-
For a real good description of the fast fire wood
kiln, see 'The Kiln Book', by Fred Olsen, pgs.
127-135. It is a short but concise look at the kiln,
including plans and a discussion of types of bricks
and the modifications necessary to fire it with gas or
oil. He also gives practical advice on a firing
schedule and tips on how to fire it. This book is due
to be released in a new edition soon, if it's not out
already.
Enjoy and make good pots...
Gregg Allen Lindsley
Earth and Fire Pottery
10325 Brookside Drive
Whispering Pines, CA 95426
Where the xmas pots are finally finished and I can
now go skiing!!! And where the pines are talking
loudly tonight as a new storm front moves through.
--- spacecowboy wrote:
> has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
> if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks
> if so how long does it
> take to fire?
> and did you get it up to Cone 10???
>
> thanks
> andy
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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Les Crimp on thu 14 dec 00
Andy - I have a 27 cu. ft. downdraft wood-fird kiln that fires to Cone 10 in
10 hours on less than a 1/2 cord of wood. (cedar)
It was built by Graham sheehan and is a "Natonal Treasure" !!
Les Crimp in Nanoose Bay, B.C. (on an Island in the Pacific)
lcrimp@home.com
spacecowboy on thu 14 dec 00
has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks if so how long does it
take to fire?
and did you get it up to Cone 10???
thanks
andy
spacecowboy on fri 15 dec 00
Gregg....
that is where i got the kiln from... i was just wondering if any just use
hard fire bricks instead of the soft bricks....
dan mickey on fri 15 dec 00
andy
if your talking about the fred olsen design then yes. In his book he writes
about the kiln and how to build and fire. I know for certain that softbrick
is what should be used. I ahd access to one of these kilns but it was made
out of hardbrick and it took longer than normal to fire and way to much
wood. We got ours to temp on the second firing and it took 12 hours. I think
olsen says you can fire it off in 4-8 hours and he says he has fired one in
less than two hours before! good luck
shane mickey
> has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
> if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks if so how long does
it
> take to fire?
> and did you get it up to Cone 10???
>
> thanks
> andy
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
_______________________________________________________
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Jean Todd on sat 16 dec 00
This is a great kiln, and easy to make and use. I have used one but
found a few little faults. You need one exra row of bricks-where the
ash will form (this may be only because Australian timber is
hardwood) and best to have ash trays that you can pull out and empty
using a hook of some sort. If the ash builds up the fire box only
fires in the front, thus losing heat. The one I used also had an
arched roof which helped. The double fire box idea is great, just go
from firebox A to Firebox B and back again. When lighting only light
one side and preferably outside the box to start with. It is very
even in heat distribution though I never went to Cone 10 with it.
Olsen calls it a "Fast Kiln" with good reason. You need to go very
slowly to start.
>
> For a real good description of the fast fire wood
> kiln, see 'The Kiln Book', by Fred Olsen, pgs.
> 127-135. It is a short but concise look at the kiln,
> including plans and a discussion of types of bricks
> and the modifications necessary to fire it with gas or
> oil. He also gives practical advice on a firing
> schedule and tips on how to fire it. This book is due
> to be released in a new edition soon, if it's not out
> already.
> Enjoy and make good pots...
>
> Gregg Allen Lindsley
> Earth and Fire Pottery
> 10325 Brookside Drive
> Whispering Pines, CA 95426
>
> Where the xmas pots are finally finished and I can
> now go skiing!!! And where the pines are talking
> loudly tonight as a new storm front moves through.
> --- spacecowboy wrote:
> > has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
> > if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks
> > if so how long does it
> > take to fire?
> > and did you get it up to Cone 10???
> >
> > thanks
> > andy
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________ > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org > > You may look
> at the archives for the list or change > your subscription > settings
> from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ > > Moderator of the list is Mel
> Jacobson who may be > reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Jean from Cowra, NSW
"Lang may your lum reek"
mallyree@ix.net.au
David Hendley on sat 16 dec 00
Dear spacecowboy,
You can build just about any permutation of Olsen's
Fast-fire kiln design and it will 'work', if your definition
of working is achieving temperature.
Just stick with his dimensions. If you make the kiln bigger,
make the flues, fireboxes, and stack proportionally larger.
There have been thousands of these kilns built around the
world. At last years' NCECA, I asked Olsen about different
ones he has seen, and he was amazed at the great
variations and varieties he has seen.
Of course, if you build with hard firebricks it will take you
longer to fire because you will be heating the bricks.
My softbrick kiln, 1 1/2 times as big as the original plan,
and built with 9" walls, will fire to cone 10 in 5 hours.
Of course, a 5 hour firing is too fast for nice looking pots,
so I slow it down.
Don't skimp on firebox, flue, and chimney size, and you will
not have a problem.
--
David Hendley
'the gangster of love'
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: spacecowboy
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 8:28 PM
Subject: fast fire wood kiln
| has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
| if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks if so how long does it
| take to fire?
| and did you get it up to Cone 10???
|
Marcia Selsor on sat 16 dec 00
Dear Spacecowboy,
I fired one in Latvia in 1991. Many of the pieces were the the Eastern
European Show at Clay Studio in Phila. That was really grarifying to see
them in such a big show (they weren't mine). Fired it with Dennis Parks
and Vladimir Petrov, and his friends Valentina and Boris. It worked great.
I helped Anne Fallis Elliot try to fire one in Banff, Canada at 6,000
feet. Problem occured because the chimney wasn't tall enough for the
altitude to give it a draw. It stalled out at 1900 F. Les Manning called
Fred Olsen and he said he forgot to mention altitude in his book. So if
you are at a high altitude go higher. I can't say how much higher but it
must be considered.
Marcia in Montana
David Hendley wrote:
>
> Dear spacecowboy,
> You can build just about any permutation of Olsen's
> Fast-fire kiln design and it will 'work', if your definition
> of working is achieving temperature.
> Just stick with his dimensions. If you make the kiln bigger,
> make the flues, fireboxes, and stack proportionally larger.
> There have been thousands of these kilns built around the
> world. At last years' NCECA, I asked Olsen about different
> ones he has seen, and he was amazed at the great
> variations and varieties he has seen.
>
> Of course, if you build with hard firebricks it will take you
> longer to fire because you will be heating the bricks.
> My softbrick kiln, 1 1/2 times as big as the original plan,
> and built with 9" walls, will fire to cone 10 in 5 hours.
> Of course, a 5 hour firing is too fast for nice looking pots,
> so I slow it down.
> Don't skimp on firebox, flue, and chimney size, and you will
> not have a problem.
> --
> David Hendley
> 'the gangster of love'
>
> Maydelle, Texas
> hendley@tyler.net
> http://www.farmpots.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: spacecowboy
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 8:28 PM
> Subject: fast fire wood kiln
>
> | has any one use the fast fire wood kiln before
> | if so did you build it just out of hard fire bricks if so how long does it
> | take to fire?
> | and did you get it up to Cone 10???
> |
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
Daniel Foscarini on sat 16 dec 00
Wouldn't they crack at high temp? I've bee collecting hard brick to build a
kiln in the yard, but intend to line the inside with fire-brick.
Is this a waste of time?
Dan
>From: spacecowboy
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: fast fire wood kiln
>Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 10:07:27 -0800
>
>Gregg....
>
>that is where i got the kiln from... i was just wondering if any just use
>hard fire bricks instead of the soft bricks....
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________
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gregg lindsley on thu 21 dec 00
Spacecowboy-
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you, things
have been very busy!
The mention of hardbrick in the article refered to
the fact that hardbrick would take longer to heat and
require more energy to heat, thus reducing the
effectiveness of the the fastfiring technique.
Hardbrick these days are much more expensive to buy,
if you buy them new. So these are the two
differences i see in using hard vs. softbrick. I just
finished an analysis of this kiln for the wood kiln
requriement of the kiln building class that just ended
at Mendocino College in Ca. Look to this type of kiln
to get very popular very soon!
Hope this helps. yours Gregg
--- spacecowboy wrote:
> Gregg....
>
> that is where i got the kiln from... i was just
> wondering if any just use
> hard fire bricks instead of the soft bricks....
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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