John Weber on wed 27 nov 96
I don't have the reciepe handy but I have used it at Cone 6 oxidation. You
need to apply it fairly thick and then you can stipple additional glaze or
oxides. The thirck and even coat seems to give it the depth you may be
looking for. Good Luck!
JODO
CP Dunbar on wed 4 dec 96
For those w/o the benefit of a book handy, we have talked a lot
re: this glaze, and luck was a Lady tonight. The best a-- looking
glaze was on our pots, and w/ the current chiding aside :) ,
we were elated. Looks great on standard 112, w/ spots.
Have seen it on brownstone w/o spots and it is not the same
animal.
Chappell s Clay and Glazes for the Potter pg 210
Cone 5-6 Ox
Nepheline syenite 47.3
Gerstley Borate 27.0
Silica 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red Iron Oxide 2.0
Cobalt Oxide 1.0
Rutile (milled) 4.0
CMC 1tsp (may sub w/ 2% Bentonite)
if you already have the glaze, use your delete key,
if not, copy down, really worth the effort.
luck, cp
--
"And she shall have music wherever my Lady goes."
cpdunbar@concentric.net
Ron Roy on sun 8 dec 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>For those w/o the benefit of a book handy, we have talked a lot
>re: this glaze, and luck was a Lady tonight. The best a-- looking
>glaze was on our pots, and w/ the current chiding aside :) ,
>we were elated. Looks great on standard 112, w/ spots.
>Have seen it on brownstone w/o spots and it is not the same
>animal.
>
>Chappell s Clay and Glazes for the Potter pg 210
> Cone 5-6 Ox
>
>Nepheline syenite 47.3
>Gerstley Borate 27.0
>Silica 20.3
>EPK 5.4
>Red Iron Oxide 2.0
>Cobalt Oxide 1.0
>Rutile (milled) 4.0
>CMC 1tsp (may sub w/ 2% Bentonite)
>cpdunbar@concentric.net
To cp and all,
I have calculated the above, the calculations tell me, and when I calculated ...
If I include the B2O3 in flux unity and compare the above glaze with the
limits formulas I use for that situation I find this glaze to be within the
limits of a durable glass. There is a high amount of Sodium oxide present
which might indicate some solubility under certain conditions - like
additions of copper. As it stands I would have no problem recommending this
glaze as food safe.
Ron Roy
Toronto, Canada
Evenings, call 416 439 2621
Fax, 416 438 7849
Bill Hall on thu 13 feb 97
In the glaze database, I find two recipes for floating blue glaze:
Nepheline Syenite 47.31
Gerstley Borate 27.00
Silica 20.30
EPK 5.40
Totals: 100.00 %
Also add:
Red Iron Oxide 2.00
Cobalt Oxide 1.00
CMC 1.00
Rutile (milled) 4.00
AND:
Nepheline Syenite 47.30
Gerstley Borate 27.00
Silica 20.30
Kaolin 5.40
Totals: 100.00 %
Also add:
Red Iron Oxide 2.00
Cobalt Carbonate 1.00
Rutile 4.00
Bentonite 2.00
Which one of these is the better recipe to try? Also, this glaze is listed
as ^6 ox. Can it be adapted to ^10 red.? The description for it says that
it is very fickle, so perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree!
TIA
---
Bill Hall
e-mail: bill@applink.net
web: http://www.applink.net/bill
Dallas, Texas, USA
Roeder on fri 14 feb 97
Yet another incarnation of floating blue?
Original (and best IMHO) from Chappell book:
Cone 6 oxidation (I fire cone six barely bent for best blue)
Neph Sy 47.3
Gerstley Borate 27.0
Silica 20.3
Kaolin (EPK) 5.4
Red iron oxide 2.0
Cobalt oxide 1.0
Rutile (milled) 4.0
CMC 1 tsp (solution, not powder!)
I use the above recipe, substituting Cobalt Carb. 2.0 for the cobalt oxide.
I do not see a need for the bentonite listed in one of the versions you
submitted, since with the Gerstley Borate, it is not one to settle out (and
in fact goes to pudding rather nicely).
As for cone 10 reduction...I've done it in cone 6 reduction and it is a
pronounced green, mossy colored, with barely a trace of blue. There are SO
many nice, subtle blues of depth and texture available to you at cone 10
reduction , I don't see why bother fiddling with this recipe.
Good luck,
Candice Roeder
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In the glaze database, I find two recipes for floating blue glaze:
>
>Nepheline Syenite 47.31
>Gerstley Borate 27.00
>Silica 20.30
>EPK 5.40
>Totals: 100.00 %
>
>Also add:
>Red Iron Oxide 2.00
>Cobalt Oxide 1.00
>CMC 1.00
>Rutile (milled) 4.00
>
>AND:
>
>
>Nepheline Syenite 47.30
>Gerstley Borate 27.00
>Silica 20.30
>Kaolin 5.40
>Totals: 100.00 %
>
>Also add:
>Red Iron Oxide 2.00
>Cobalt Carbonate 1.00
>Rutile 4.00
>Bentonite 2.00
>
>
>Which one of these is the better recipe to try? Also, this glaze is listed
>as ^6 ox. Can it be adapted to ^10 red.? The description for it says that
>it is very fickle, so perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree!
>
>TIA
>
>---
>Bill Hall
>e-mail: bill@applink.net
>web: http://www.applink.net/bill
>Dallas, Texas, USA
>
Don Goodrich on fri 14 feb 97
Bill,
I've tried both ^6 versions of Floating Blue: with and without bentonite
and CMC. The finished products are indistinguishable from each other on my
stoneware. The main finickiness I've encountered with FB is getting it to
stay on the pots either before or during firing. If a second layer is dipped
too soon after the first, both tend to flake right off the bisque. (It needs
to be somewhat thick, or it'll merely turn a thin green-brown.) If this
doesn't happen before firing, it may still happen during early stages of
firing, leaving a real mess in the kiln. The CMC and bentonite appear to help
it stick to the pots better, as does waiting a fair amount of time for each
layer to dry before the next application and before firing. The bentonite
version seems to have a little better suspension in water (or maybe I just
mixed it using less water) since it doesn't settle out as quickly. Having
thus learned patience in its use, my last few firings with FB have been quite
successful.
I don't have a ^10 recipe, but some folks were discussing the idea awhile
back. Good Luck.
Don Goodrich making more blue pots in Zion, Illinois
McFadden on sun 16 feb 97
Bill -
I use the chappel's floating blue recipe with bentonite and have had
some problems with it, but they weren't insurmountable.
I fire using a high iron ^6 stoneware and a ^6 porcelain and bisque
to ^06 rather than 04, leaving my pots a little more porous to absorb
the glaze. I find all my glazes respond slightly better at that
temp.
When the f.b. glaze is applied too thickly, of course, it can
run right off your pot. ...but this has only happened to me once when i
applied the glaze super duper thick. I usually mix the fb in the bucket
to the consistency of half-and-half cream or homogonized milk, and
dip the whole pot once and apply a second dip over the outside of the
pot to acheive better colour. The interior of the pot responds well
to one coat.
When i first started playing with this glaze, i decided to try
soaking at the top temps. The glaze had some partially healed over
craters; it seemed worse in spots where the glaze was thicker.
The only time i usually get these healed over craters (and
they're seldom) is when the pots are in the centre of my kiln
(the hot spot) and if the glaze is too thick.
It takes some fiddling, but once you get it, it looks great over
carving/incising.
Sorry, Bill, no cone 10 recipe for you.
Anne
EMAIL: craftypotters@artlover.com
Beeton, Ontario Canada
LYN PEELLE on wed 19 feb 97
Hi
I hate to sound stupid or something--but whta is CMC??
Lyn
George Mackie on wed 19 feb 97
Lyn - its methyl cellulose. george
On Wed, 19 Feb 1997, LYN PEELLE wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
> Hi
> I hate to sound stupid or something--but whta is CMC??
> Lyn
>
Michele Hoskin on mon 15 mar 99
Hi Everyone.
I just tested the floating blue glaze that was called "a bit boring but
reliable" and it was dark Grey and very bubbled! Any suggestions or
similar finds? My kiln actually fired a little high as cone 6 bent to the
shelf so I don't understand the bubbling.
Much to learn.
Michele
Marty Anderson on tue 16 mar 99
Hi Michele,
Don't know which recipe you are using, but this is what I use. Fire Medium,
no special cool down, and the last load unexpectedly went to ^8 and they all
came out beautiful. I have never had FB turn out the colors other people
have posted, they have alway been blue and beautiful. I dip my glaze, not
that it should make any difference, I just prefer the white/blue cloud like
effect it has.
^6 Floating Blue
Nep Sy 47.3
Gerst Borate 27.
Silica 20.3
EPK 5.4
Add:
RIO 2.
Cobalt Ox 1.
Rutile 4.
Bentonite 1.
Marty
martya@airmail.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Michele Hoskin
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 2:47 PM
Subject: Floating Blue Glaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>Hi Everyone.
>
>I just tested the floating blue glaze that was called "a bit boring but
>reliable" and it was dark Grey and very bubbled! Any suggestions or
>similar finds? My kiln actually fired a little high as cone 6 bent to the
>shelf so I don't understand the bubbling.
>
>Much to learn.
>Michele
>
Richard Ramirez on tue 16 mar 99
Hello,
I also have been having bubbles in my floating blue. Although, poured or
dipped over or under another glaze, I don't get those darn little bubbles? I
might be firing too fast, how about you? Anyone else having problems like
this? Thanks, let us know.
Bill Williams on tue 16 mar 99
I have used Chappells floating blue on black, white and buff clay. I have
never had a failure with it. I mix it very carefully and use bottled water
to mix it. Chappell says in his book that it must be fired at cone 6. I
underfired it once and everything came out of the kiln an ugly brown. (4
days before Christmas) I refired and everything came out fine. I have heard
some say that they have changed the glaze slightly by adding less cobalt,
but have never heard of a failure with this glaze if it is mixed and fired
right. Another potter substituted Ferro Frit 3134 13% for the Gerstley
borate. Said it worked better than the original, I haven't tried that yet,
because I have been happy with my results with the Chappell version.
Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Michele Hoskin
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: Floating Blue Glaze
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>Hi Everyone.
>
>I just tested the floating blue glaze that was called "a bit boring but
>reliable" and it was dark Grey and very bubbled! Any suggestions or
>similar finds? My kiln actually fired a little high as cone 6 bent to the
>shelf so I don't understand the bubbling.
>
>Much to learn.
>Michele
>
tmartens on tue 16 mar 99
Michelle
I have found that floating blue does not really like ^6, especially
high ^6, certainly mine is happier and looks better at approx ^51/2
Toni
Hi Everyone.
I just tested the floating blue glaze that was called "a bit boring but
reliable" and it was dark Grey and very bubbled! Any suggestions or
similar finds? My kiln actually fired a little high as cone 6 bent to the
shelf so I don't understand the bubbling.
Much to learn.
Michele
Marty Anderson on thu 18 mar 99
-----Original Message-----
From: tmartens
To:
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: Floating Blue Glaze
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Michelle
I have found that floating blue does not really like ^6, especially
high ^6, certainly mine is happier and looks better at approx ^51/2
Toni
Hi Everyone.
I just tested the floating blue glaze that was called "a bit boring but
reliable" and it was dark Grey and very bubbled! Any suggestions or
similar finds? My kiln actually fired a little high as cone 6 bent to the
shelf so I don't understand the bubbling.
Much to learn.
Michele
Craig Haaser on sun 26 nov 00
I am looking for a "dependable" floating blue glaze to fire in reduction to
cone 10.
Thank you.
Craig Haaser
Ogden Utah.
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