CP Dunbar on mon 11 nov 96
I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of Chappel's book
of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
otherwise was a good one .
Any suggestions ?
Any other favorite floating blue variations ?
thank you all in advance, cp
--
"And she shall have music wherever my Lady goes."
cpdunbar@concentric.net
(anonymous) on tue 12 nov 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of Chappel's book
>of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
>otherwise was a good one .
I believe that floating blue turns green when it is fired above cone 6.
Paula Coleman Focazio
Andrew S Lubow on tue 12 nov 96
Try using distilled water. If I remember Chappel's original reference
correctly the glaze is VERY sensitive about it's water supply and that
the formula's ingrediants should not be substituted.
On Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:18:21 EST CP Dunbar
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of
>Chappel's book
>of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
>otherwise was a good one .
>
>Any suggestions ?
>
>Any other favorite floating blue variations ?
>
>
>
>thank you all in advance, cp
>
>--
>"And she shall have music wherever my Lady goes."
>
>cpdunbar@concentric.net
>
Roeder on tue 12 nov 96
Hi cp,
I have been using this one for a few years now and I am familiar with the
green you describe. I call it "snot green". I have found that you need to
get it on *thick* for blue. Also, I fire it to cone 6 barely bending.
Higher is greener.
It has been said (on this list) that the green is from the titanium (in the
rutile). The last batch I made, I must have made a mistake mixing. I added
it to a wet batch, and was interrupted during the mixing. The glaze came
out knock-out blue. I either doubled the cobalt, or, more likely, forgot to
add the rutile.
I always use a combination of two other glazes with this one, to encourage
different shades of blue...this last batch didn't need any help at
all...blue through and through. And when this bucket's gone, it's gone. I
can always make a test batch without the rutile.
Also, I use cobalt carbonate instead of the cobalt oxide called for in the
recipe. I use 2 grams per 100 gram batch of cobalt carbonate.
>I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of Chappel's book
>of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
>otherwise was a good one .
>
>Any suggestions ?
Omer Artun on tue 12 nov 96
I come to your rescue. I just tried 2 slightly different Floating Blue's
last night. One of them is from Clayart database the other from my RISD noteboo
RISD Floating Blue is much much nicer, as it has better coverage and less runny,
and the blue is accented much better.
Floating Blue (Clayart) cone 6 Oxidation
-----------------------------------------
Nepheline Syenite 45.48 227.4
Gerstley Borate 25.96 129.8
Silica 19.52 97.6
EPK 5.19 26.0
Milled Rutile 3.85 19.2
Totals: 100.00 500.0 Gm
Also add:
Red Iron Oxide 1.92 9.6
Cobalt Oxide 0.96 4.8
Floating Blue (RISD) cone 6 oxidation
----------------------------------------
Nepheline Syenite 47.3
Colemanite 27.0
Flint 20.3
Kaolin 5.4
Totals: 100.00
Also Add:
Red iron oxide 2.0
Cobalt oxide 1.0
Rutile 4.0
I hope this helps.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
OMER BERAT ARTUN
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Institute for Brain and tel: 401 421 2879 (home)
Neural Systems, 401 863 3920 (office)
Department of Physics 401 863 3494 (fax)
Box 1843
Brown University URL: http://www.physics.brown.edu/people/artun
Providence RI 02912 e-mail: artun@cns.brown.edu
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Karen Greene on tue 12 nov 96
CP, I have used that same floating blue recipe for a number of years, off
and on. IT seems like a very strong gloss glaze, but the floating effect is
fussy. I wonder sometimes what it would be like as a clear or white base
glaze. I use a ^6 white to yellow white stoneware clay. I dip the pot in a
moderately thick glaze, then use a round sponge to apply another layer of
the glaze. This seems to be what gives the floating effect. The glaze,
for me, is dark brown with blue and green "floating" clouds/hazes. I
actually have gotten tired of this glaze. I find it rather depressing
right now. But, at one time i really liked it. Enough to make my own
dinner ware with it. Fortunately we are about to kasher our kitchen and i
get to make new dishes. what a relief. But on the other hand, I just made
a set of dishes for someone who specifically requested this glaze.
Karen Greene
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side, and it holds the universe together...."
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Lisa on wed 13 nov 96
Paula Coleman Focazio wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of Chappel's book
> >of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
> >otherwise was a good one .
>
> I believe that floating blue turns green when it is fired above cone 6.
>
> Paula Coleman Focazio
It also turns green if it's on too thick.
David W Gordon on thu 14 nov 96
Yes, you are overfiring it by at least a half cone. Try it again with
cone 6 bending to 2 o'clock.
David
David W. Gordon dwgordon@tenet.edu
On Mon, 11 Nov 1996, CP Dunbar wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I made a floating blue glaze copied straight from the cover of Chappel's book
> of clay and glazes. Mine turned out green. Ugly green. The glaze
> otherwise was a good one .
>
> Any suggestions ?
>
> Any other favorite floating blue variations ?
>
>
>
> thank you all in advance, cp
>
> --
> "And she shall have music wherever my Lady goes."
>
> cpdunbar@concentric.net
>
Don Goodrich on fri 15 nov 96
CP,
I just unloaded a kiln with some test pieces glazed with floating blue (my
first batch), and noticed the green but glossy surface you mentioned only on
the areas where the glaze was thinnest. Chappell (Clay & Glazes, page 210)
mentions that this glaze, to work properly, should be applied "to the
thickness of a dime". Mine was mixed to a milky consistency, and dipped
three times (except for the aforementioned small area) and the triple-dipped
areas turned out perfectly. Hope your next trial turns out better.
Don Goodrich in Zion, Illinois wishing my kiln was in a heated building
LizzardOL@aol.com on fri 15 nov 96
I tried Chappels floating blue once just as a test and it turned out OK on
white stoneware (B mix). Did you follow the advice to use very pure water?
(I didn't but maybe we have less dissolved solids in California water than in
your area). Sorry no other suggestions.
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