lihde@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu on sat 1 jun 96
I'm interested in communicating with those of you who have attempted
outdoor fountains. I am involved in a labor of love for a former
professor of mine. I have made over 300 irregular tiles which form a
pattern of his and my joint design which I plan to install this summer
into a concrete pool. The pool is 86" by 86" square, 26" high and has a
8" wide rim at the top most edge. It is designed to be over flowing. I
intend to apply thinset and then nobelseal and then the tiles back
buttered with mortar.Latex additive will be added to every thinset and
mortar mix to avoid freez thaw stress as much as possible. The pool will be
out doors year round in upstate ny.
My questions are, what's the best way to apply the tiles to the concrete
when the concrete pool has already been outdoors for 10 years? What
should I watch out for. I have other questions but have no experience
and only my research. Han cautions or advice from thos of you who are wise?
Thank you
Leslie at Turning Point in Vestal
Scott Finney on sat 1 jun 96
Leslie,
Your in for lots of fun and plenty of tranquil enjoyment pool side.
As for adhereing tile make sure the old surface is completely clean
with plenty of tooth for the new mixer to attach to. My one question
was is there some sort of wire of steel reinforcement in the
existing pool other wise you can expect problems. Another important
thing to consider is how the water spills over, how is it going to
sound. Hopefully not like somebody peeing, a common error, all to
easily made. Try a number of configurations before making it
permenate.
I've built several fountain and would be happy to collaberate on any
specific question you may have.
Good Luck
Scott
LINDA BLOSSOM on tue 4 jun 96
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Leslie,
I'm not sure you need nobleseal - the liner, right? How about thoroseal? If
you were indoors, doing a tub, then nobleseal would be appropriate. A leak
outdoors isn't as big a deal. I'd be more concerned about the base slab. The
underlying structure is of the most importance because if it moves the fountain
moves. Also, I'd use fiber mesh for any concrete work rather than 6" wire
mesh. I guess it goes without saying that the clay has to have very low
absorption? Is epoxy grout an option? It is waterproof and stainproof. It is
also a bit expensive, but it could prevent water from getting behind the tiles.
I've used it on a kitchen counter top. I used the fibermesh, nobleseal, and
thoroseal, on a tub and shower area in my house. Feel free to call and talk
about it. I know a good mason that I can probably get info from. I'm in
Ithaca. 607-539-7912. Linda Blossom
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chuck hackbarth on fri 26 may 00
Does anyone have any information, or a source of information on making =
fountains?
thanks,
sally
Helen Bates on sun 4 jun 00
From:
"Wesley C. Rolley"
Fri 11:00 AM
Subject:
Re: Result of article search at Alfred is controversial!
(...)
> I read the commentary on the R. Mutt
> "Fountain" and the
> implication that the piece disappeared from Stieglitz's
> studio years ago.
> In that is the case, I wonder where the piece that is
> currently exhibited
> at the San Francisco Muesum of Modern Art came from and
> why the museum paid
> such a hefty 7 figure price (US $) for it.
(...)
The SFMOMA is on the World Wide Web, and has a link to its (in)famous
recent acquisition that may answer your question:
> The original Fountain has long since
> disappeared. In 1964, Duchamp
> entrusted the Galleria Schwarz in
> Milan with the production of a signed
> and numbered edition of his most
> important ready-mades. Each
> ready-made was refabricated by a
> highly exacting craftsperson to exactly
> replicate the original; the edition for
> each selection was limited to eight
> signed examples. The highly
> esteemed Arturo Schwarz edition of
> Fountain is the fourth full-scale
> version of the piece and the one that
> most closely approximates the lost
> original.
>
> This is the only edition to be issued
> under the direct supervision of
> Duchamp at every stage of the project
> on the basis of a blueprint derived
> from photos of the lost original.
For the entire entry, go to this URL:
http://www.sfmoma.org/collections/recent_acquisitions/ma_coll_duchamp.html
Thanks for telling me this piece was at the San Francisco Museum of
Modern Art. It's going to be interesting to revisit.
As for "The Fountain", by Duchamp, I hadn't read that far in Clark's
article. I may possibly have seen a picture of the urinal in some art
book but not with any great awareness. (I find myself "curious" rather
than attracted by much modern art, although I do like pieces that
challenging visually and texturally, etc. "Conceptual" art is something
I may have to spend more time learning about to appreciate it. Not this
week, except I hope to finish the Clark article, or enough of it for my
purposes.)
Helen
--
=========================================================
Helen Bates
mailto:nell@reach.net
=========================================================
Jeremy McLeod on wed 22 jan 03
Diane Winters wrote:
> There's a type of silicone adhesive used in making or repairing glass
> aquariums [seems like aquaria ought to be the official plural]. It's
> non-toxic to water creatures as well. You should be able to get it at a pet
> store with a well stocked tropical fish section.
I second this recommendation. The stuff is amazingly strong and
impervious to water (thus it's use in aquaria). I use it in my fountains
extensively and am most pleased with the results.
Jeremy McLeod
leslie smith on wed 22 jan 03
Hi,=20
I am in need of an adhesive that will bond rock to a slick, shiny =
surface and not degrade over a long period of time because of water =
being on it.
Can you recommend a product? Will appreciate any advice and/or =
suggestions.
Thank you,
Leslie
Diane Winters on wed 22 jan 03
There's a type of silicone adhesive used in making or repairing glass
aquariums [seems like aquaria ought to be the official plural]. It's
non-toxic to water creatures as well. You should be able to get it at a pet
store with a well stocked tropical fish section.
It's made by Dow/Corning, possibly other makers as well. Transparent, bonds
to glass, can handle being subjected to water all the time.
Regards,
Diane Winters in Oakland/Berkeley wondering when, if, I'll make all the rest
of the parts of the fountain still gurgling softly in my mind's eye.
Leslie wrote:
I am in need of an adhesive that will bond rock to a slick, shiny surface
and not degrade over a long period of time because of water being on it.
J. B. Clauson on thu 23 jan 03
If you can find this adhesive, please post source. I haven't seen a glass
aquarium in ages not any of the adhesives used to seal them. The ones I see
are made of Plexiglas because it is lighter, stronger, and not prone to
shatter - it does scratch, but the scratches can be polished out. (I am a
tropical fish fancier for over 50 years)
Jan C.
P. S. The last time I repaired a glass aquarium, it was with a black, tarry
looking goop. But, that was for a corner leak. In the olden days (my son's
term for my youth) corners and bottoms were attached with this stuff.
Diane Winters on thu 23 jan 03
Jan wrote:
>If you can find this adhesive, please post source. I haven't seen a glass
>aquarium in ages not any of the adhesives used to seal them. The ones I
see
>are made of Plexiglas because it is lighter, stronger, and not prone to
>shatter.
Well, I have to admit my glass aquarium must be 25 years old now, so I just
called East Bay Vivarium, local source for my armadillo lizard's food, and
they say you can readily get either glass or plexiglas aquariums. (They
even offered to provide distributor info if you want glass and can't find
one).
Meanwhile, the product I referred to is called Aquarium Sealant - after a
little research on the internet, I've discovered that Dow Corning has sold
that product line to DAP, so some tubes of the stuff now out in stores are
labelled with both brand names, but the newer ones have just the DAP brand.
As I said it's available in stores with well stocked tropical fish supplies.
Here's the description taken from a website:
100% silicone sealant for building and repairing aquariums. Sealant stays
flexible and will not crack or shrink. Nontoxic to fresh and saltwater fish
when cured. Tack free in one hour and is fully cured and bonded in
approximately 24 hours. Adheres to most surfaces including glass, nonoily
woods, metal, porcelain, ceramic, painted surfaces, many plastics and
rubbers.
Regards,
Diane Winters in grey, damp, [relatively] cool (64 degrees F)
Oakland/Berkeley, Calif.
Marek Drzazga-Donaldson on thu 23 jan 03
Dear Leslie,
use epoxy resin ( a two part compound) and when the two parts are mixed =
add some sand (fine sand, and you can add any water based colorants to =
it to blend), you should be able to paste it into place and mould it =
lightly with your fingers - give them a good wash.
happy potting Marek www.moley.uk.com=20
claybair on thu 23 jan 03
Jan,
Any of your local hardware stores should carry the aquarium sealer.
I bought it at True Value. However if you are not going to put fish in it
you could use any good quality clear silicon caulk. I have a table fountain
sealed with it that is about 5 years old. I was making the holes near the
bottom of the bowl because I didn't like the look of the cord flopping over
the edge. It has never leaked.
Also the best pumps I found were made by Little Giant. They had a great pump
which was small, adjustable, very quiet & durable.
However I stopped making/selling fountains when Wal-mart and the like
brought in super cheap crappy mass produced ones.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: J. B. Clauson
If you can find this adhesive, please post source. I haven't seen a glass
aquarium in ages not any of the adhesives used to seal them. The ones I see
are made of Plexiglas because it is lighter, stronger, and not prone to
shatter - it does scratch, but the scratches can be polished out. (I am a
tropical fish fancier for over 50 years)
Jan C.
P. S. The last time I repaired a glass aquarium, it was with a black,
tarry
looking goop. But, that was for a corner leak. In the olden days (my son's
term for my youth) corners and bottoms were attached with this stuff.
_____
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