Simons, Frank on wed 25 sep 96
Have recently aquired an Alpine GF-4 gas kiln. At present it is not doing
much of anything other than sitting behind my house making an ideal target
for the occasional crow winging its weary way overhead. Does anyone have any
advice or suggestions regarding installation or operation of a kiln of this
type on natural gas? Like is there something you did you wouldnt do again?
or something you should have done but didnt? Any related stuff on this kiln
or reasonable facsimiles would be most appreciated. TIA
Frank in Penticton.B.C.
sandra m benscoter on wed 29 apr 98
Hi Clayarters!
A friend, who lives in Clinton, NJ, asked me to post a message for her:
Is there anyone in the Hunterdon County area that would consider renting
space in their gas kiln firings?
Please respond to the list or privately to:
sbenscoter@juno.com
and I will forward the response.
Thank you,
Sande
enjoying the cool breeze and the warm sun in NJ
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Mary Lou Lundgren on sun 6 feb 00
Hi all....
I have recently decided to return to my favorite of all things - clay.
what should I do about a kiln?
I have all the parts to my old kiln - 36 cu ft downdraft gas cone 10 catenary
soft brick arch with blanket- hard and soft firebrick, 4 venturi burners, etc.
It sure would be nice not to have to build two layers of fire brick for the
door.
I think I want to buy one with a swinging door - maybe 10 - 20 cu ft. -
There are so many gas kilns out there on the market - please tell me how much
you love your kiln....
Mary Lou
Marcia Selsor on mon 7 feb 00
20 years ago I built two new kilns for the college using a hinged door
for one and a car kiln for the other. Both were sprung arches. I had
rebuilt a catenary arch and a sprung arch at the previous lab, but these
were in a new location. I suggest you use a door on a car that rolls up
to the front. It can be fiber or insulating bricks. -and weighed down
with counter weights. It sure saves the wrists not to brick up doors.
Marci in Montana
Mary Lou Lundgren wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi all....
> I have recently decided to return to my favorite of all things - clay.
>
> what should I do about a kiln?
>
> I have all the parts to my old kiln - 36 cu ft downdraft gas cone 10 catenary
> soft brick arch with blanket- hard and soft firebrick, 4 venturi burners, etc.
> It sure would be nice not to have to build two layers of fire brick for the
> door.
> I think I want to buy one with a swinging door - maybe 10 - 20 cu ft. -
>
> There are so many gas kilns out there on the market - please tell me how much
> you love your kiln....
> Mary Lou
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
Kurt M Vernikos on thu 4 may 00
------------------
Hi,
In the market for a used gas kiln or used electric that I can modify to gas.
Been firing oxidation for too long. I reside in Orlando Florida.
Thanks,
Kurt
m markey on wed 11 jul 01
Hi Bob!
Where is your friend's kiln located? What are the dimensions? Is it a car
kiln, or does it have a hinged hatch?
These are things inquiring Clayart folks want to know!
Best wishes!
Mohabee NakedClay@hotmail.com
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Nick Zappa on wed 26 sep 01
We have a 20 cubic foot stackable gas kiln for sale. It is cone 10 =
fiber. Can be set up for natural gas or propane. We are in southwestern =
Colorado.
Please contact us off list for more info. Nick Zappa
Zappa Pottery & Gallery Inc.
18800 P-61 Trail
Montrose CO. 81401
www.zappapottery.com
info@zappapottery.com
970.249.6819 Studio
970.252.0303 Gallery
970.252.0104 Fax
Merrie Boerner on wed 26 sep 01
Hi Nick,
I just had to respond to you because of your fabulous last name ! ....AND
you have RED down ! Great colors !
Merrie in Mississippi
Yann Ferric on mon 9 sep 02
Hi Diane,
I have a gas kiln made from a scrap-metal oil drum (cleaned thoroughly
before installing the fibre!). It has 2.5" of ceramic fibre insulation
(1260C grade). Using a single raku torch setup I have managed to get it up
to 1300C on a hot dry day. I don't fire to that temperature but did it a few
times for fun. It used quite alot of propane from my bottle (small 19.5 kg)
which started to frost at the base. A bigger size tank of propane would have
helped I'm sure, and more fibre or board insulation. So it is possible, but
with my setup it is pretty greedy on propane and took a long time to reach
the high temperature.
It was fun melting a few pots though, oops:)
Yann
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Ron Collins on tue 10 sep 02
Hi Yann....I don't know where you live, and the cost of your fuel, but I
have a raku soft brick that used a lot of propane, and made quite a bit of
noise, and Lowell Baker changed out orifices to much smaller, cut down the
primary air a bunch...it's quiet as a mouse, and doesn't look like it uses
much more gas than my kitchen oven.....I can get to cone six faster than I
should....and the amount of propane that it takes was just cut down
tremendously....I also cook beans on top of it at the same time, just so I
won't look wasteful...I think some people on the list who know more about
efficient firing should explain how efficiency is not related to amount of
gas used...I can't, but someone should, in simple laymen's terms.....THERE
ARE LOTS OF INTERNATIONAL READERS ON THIS LIST WHO DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO THE
KILN TECHNOLOGY OR FRIENDS TO HELP THAT MANY OF YOU ASSUME ...please kindly
assist these folks in plain terms......not one person in my country fires to
vitirification, except me, and that's pretty pathetic, and I can't help them
out a whole lot either, so if someone might be in a good mood, and would
be so kind as to in simple terms, suggest orifice size/primary air, simple
things....you might be helping more people than you know.....as Mel said,
there are people from 80 countries who read these posts....Melinda Collins,
Antigua, Guatemala
Yann Ferric on wed 11 sep 02
Hi,
Thanks for the post Ron :D useful advice. Yep my oil drum is a jet-engine
taking off!. I hope the new one will be quieter, and more efficient.
I need to get hold of some technical info about flue and burner port sizes
in relation to kiln size etc. I had notes once, but they went astray.
(ripping pages out of notebooks is a terrible habit :S) So there are a few
books on my wish list at the moment: "The Art of Firing"
by Nils Lou, "Kilns - Design, Construction and Operation"
by Daniel Rhodes which I think is out of print but is mentioned alot :'(
and "The Kiln Book" - Materials, Specifications and Construction by
Frederick L Olsen (which I originally took my wayward notes from, last
century :O ). I can't wait to hear the new kiln 'take off' lol. My old one
is called Pop-Rivet Matilda, I wonder what this one shall be.
Ive been wondering how to minimise or stop the clouds of smoke caused by
raku when its put in the reduction chamber with sawdust etc. Has anyone
got any tips for how to keep the neighbours happy and unworried? I,ve used
damp sawdust over the top to keep smoke in and its ok for smallish
pieces , no idea about larger stuff ( which I would like to try).
Yann: Rakuing at night and in the rain so the smoke isn't so noticeable
hehe :D
John Britt on wed 11 sep 02
Yann,
There are two good ways to keep smoke down with raku,
Have a good garbage can and lid. Then put 2 or 3 sheets of newspaper on
the inside of the lid extending over the rim about 3 inches then spray
them with water. Soak them. Then when you put the hot pots in the can
put the lid on with the wet newspaper inside. It makes a gasket for the
can. You can use an old towel too.
Or have a bed of sand. About 4inches thick. Put the sawdust and paper on
the sand then put the hot pot on the sawdust, then put the garbage can
upside down over the pots. Push and wiggle the can into the sand. This
will seal it up. If it leaks spray water around the sand at the
connection.
Hope it helps,
John Britt
Penland Clay
Yann Ferric on thu 12 sep 02
John,
Thanks for the suggestions for keeping the raku smoke manageable, great
ideas, I will try them next time I do a firing. The sand method appeals to
me for some reason, so I will do that one first and experiment. Can't
wait !:D
Yann
steve harrison on sat 26 jul 03
on 26/7/03 9:52 am, dennis jones at acejones@CABLEONE.COM wrote:
> Does anyone have any plans or comments on a small gas (propane) fired kiln in
> which at some point, one could inject ash or sawdust ? I am thinking about
> something in the range of 4-6 cubic feet. Is this even feasable ?
>
>
> Dennis
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Hi Dennis,
I think there is a guy called steve Davis who is on clay art, who has built
such a kiln. i hope he responds to you. If not, i believe there is a site
called "kazegama", or at least incorporates that word.
regards
Steve Harrison
Burness Speakman on sat 26 jul 03
No offense, but why would you not put the ash in the glaze instead of a
kiln that small? And your purpose for the sawdust?
Bunny
Roger Korn on sat 26 jul 03
http://www.kazegamas.com/kazegama.htm is a great website describing a
truly ingenious kiln.
Steve Davis, if you read this, could you tell me what your thoughts are
on coatings (ITC, silica/kaolin washes, etc)
for extending the life of M-board as a hot face for ash/salt/soda
firings. I'm setting foot on this path in the hope of
finding something other than hard brick for a truly durable hot face,
particularly for kilns to be subject to
heavy use, such as institutional settings. Looking at the trajectory of
propane costs, a solution to this would
be a huge contribution to the advancement of human-kind ,
particularly our kind of humans.
Roger
steve harrison wrote:
>on 26/7/03 9:52 am, dennis jones at acejones@CABLEONE.COM wrote:
>
>
>
>>Does anyone have any plans or comments on a small gas (propane) fired kiln in
>>which at some point, one could inject ash or sawdust ? I am thinking about
>>something in the range of 4-6 cubic feet. Is this even feasable ?
>>
>>
>>Dennis
>>...
>>
>>
>
>Hi Dennis,
>I think there is a guy called steve Davis who is on clay art, who has built
>such a kiln. i hope he responds to you. If not, i believe there is a site
>called "kazegama", or at least incorporates that word.
>regards
>Steve Harrison
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
John Baymore on sun 27 jul 03
Bunny,
No offense, but why would you not put the ash in the glaze instead of a
kiln that small? And your purpose for the sawdust?
I am guessing the original message authors intent here..... but the idea =
of
blowing in wood ash in thru blowers into the kiln is to sort of create a
"faux" wood-fire look with ash patterns settling based on the gases flowi=
ng
thru the kiln and the effects of the wadding, form shadowing and such on
the nature of the deposits. I imagine the sawdust is to try to get some
"flashing", since the straight wood ash in the blowers does not tend to
look quite like wood fire.
Ash in the glaze would give an overgall glazed effect....... not look lik=
e
yakishime..... unglazed effects.
This approach is likely in order to allow wood fire effects where the
smoke, flame, and the general "mess" associated with a wood kiln is not
possible.
It also would cut out the vast amount of labor that is involved in wood=
firing......... which makes it the most expensive way to fire. =
Doing this for a tiny 4-6 cubic foot kiln should be a snap .
BTW...... "Kazegama" is already the name of a real wood kiln in Japan....=
it belongs to Ogawa Hirohisa who is in Motegi in Tochigi-ken.... next tow=
n
over from Mashiko. I visited him last year.
best,
.......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086-5812 USA
JBaymore@compuserve.com
http://www.JohnBaymore.com
603-654-2752 (studio)
800-900-1110 (studio)
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop: August 15-24,
2003"
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sun 27 jul 03
Hi John,
When my wood Stove is running like a Locomotive...the
suction of the incomeing draft is enough to pul saw-dust in
from my holding a pile of it in my hand...
If it is sprinkled in front of the draft it goes horizontal
and right on in..
I should think one may do the same with a Kiln...or, any
number of simple methods could be devised...as let the
saw-dust fall in a trickle in front of the draft entrance.
Good luck!
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Baymore"
To:
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: gas kiln
Bunny,
No offense, but why would you not put the ash in the glaze
instead of a
kiln that small? And your purpose for the sawdust?
I am guessing the original message authors intent here.....
but the idea of
blowing in wood ash in thru blowers into the kiln is to sort
of create a
"faux" wood-fire look with ash patterns settling based on
the gases flowing
thru the kiln and the effects of the wadding, form shadowing
and such on
the nature of the deposits. I imagine the sawdust is to try
to get some
"flashing", since the straight wood ash in the blowers does
not tend to
look quite like wood fire.
Ash in the glaze would give an overgall glazed effect.......
not look like
yakishime..... unglazed effects.
This approach is likely in order to allow wood fire effects
where the
smoke, flame, and the general "mess" associated with a wood
kiln is not
possible.
It also would cut out the vast amount of labor that is
involved in wood
firing......... which makes it the most expensive way to
fire.
Doing this for a tiny 4-6 cubic foot kiln should be a snap
.
BTW...... "Kazegama" is already the name of a real wood kiln
in Japan....
it belongs to Ogawa Hirohisa who is in Motegi in
Tochigi-ken.... next town
over from Mashiko. I visited him last year.
best,
.......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086-5812 USA
JBaymore@compuserve.com
http://www.JohnBaymore.com
603-654-2752 (studio)
800-900-1110 (studio)
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop:
August 15-24,
2003"
____________________________________________________________
__________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
dennis jones on sun 27 jul 03
That was exactly my intent, as well as the fact that my neighbors wouldn't
take too kindly to a wood burning kiln. Plus, I just don't want the hassel
of buying, and storing firewood.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Baymore"
To:
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: gas kiln
Bunny,
No offense, but why would you not put the ash in the glaze instead of a
kiln that small? And your purpose for the sawdust?
I am guessing the original message authors intent here..... but the idea of
blowing in wood ash in thru blowers into the kiln is to sort of create a
"faux" wood-fire look with ash patterns settling based on the gases flowing
thru the kiln and the effects of the wadding, form shadowing and such on
the nature of the deposits. I imagine the sawdust is to try to get some
"flashing", since the straight wood ash in the blowers does not tend to
look quite like wood fire.
Ash in the glaze would give an overgall glazed effect....... not look like
yakishime..... unglazed effects.
This approach is likely in order to allow wood fire effects where the
smoke, flame, and the general "mess" associated with a wood kiln is not
possible.
It also would cut out the vast amount of labor that is involved in wood
firing......... which makes it the most expensive way to fire.
Doing this for a tiny 4-6 cubic foot kiln should be a snap .
BTW...... "Kazegama" is already the name of a real wood kiln in Japan....
it belongs to Ogawa Hirohisa who is in Motegi in Tochigi-ken.... next town
over from Mashiko. I visited him last year.
best,
.......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086-5812 USA
JBaymore@compuserve.com
http://www.JohnBaymore.com
603-654-2752 (studio)
800-900-1110 (studio)
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop: August 15-24,
2003"
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
HOC Studio on tue 25 nov 03
is there anybody out there who is getting rid of a gas kiln or has any ideas
where i can find one for less than four thousand dollars? please send all
e-mail to claylady128@aol.com
Milla Miller on wed 26 nov 03
In a message dated 11/26/2003 6:06:26 AM Eastern Standard Time,
HOCceramic@AOL.COM writes:
> is there anybody out there who is getting rid of a gas kiln or has any ideas
> where i can find one for less than four thousand dollars? please send all
> e-mail to claylady128
>
Not advertised,I personally have a brick gas kiln unmortared with burners in
South Carolina.that was not advertised.my studio 13 miles away from it
burned in Augusy and would consider selling but you would need to deconstruct and
move.It is very efficient and fires off a 500 propane tank or 3 in tandem or
natural gas probably a commercial line as pressure needs to be consistantly
adequate .12'' X 24'' shelves in near perfect condition available..fob
Columbia,SC very near freeway access
Margaret in SC
Mud Duck Pottery on sun 15 feb 04
I'm going to build my first gas kiln soon.
I have the video and plans for the Graham Sheehan 25 cu. ft. kiln. It looks
like a good kiln and appears easy to build.
What I'm wondering is do any of you have any experience building or firing
this kiln, if so could you give me your feed back on it??
Thanks!!!
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
Gail Phillips on tue 17 feb 04
Dear Gene -
I built this kiln but haven't fired it yet. I didn't use the fibre =
blanket
and buttons on the inside - just did the brick. I think that I will ITC
spray it. When I went to order burners from Marc Ward, he recommended =
six
instead of four, so I will have to relocate burner ports. Are you coming =
to
NCECA? I live here in Indy, and you could take a look at mine.
- Gail Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Mud Duck
Pottery
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 6:32 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: gas kiln
I'm going to build my first gas kiln soon.
I have the video and plans for the Graham Sheehan 25 cu. ft. kiln. It =
looks
like a good kiln and appears easy to build.
What I'm wondering is do any of you have any experience building or =
firing
this kiln, if so could you give me your feed back on it??
Thanks!!!
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Gene Arnold on tue 12 jul 05
Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well compacted =
soil as opposed to a concrete slab???
Under the shed behind our studio the ground has been walked on, driven =
on and generally compacted for about 20 years at least maybe more. I was =
planning to pour a concrete slab until a friend said what we had was =
already hard as concrete. Why waste the money he said. I would prefer to =
leave it natural if there are no adverse effect to the kiln or a =
disadvantage to building on dirt.
I plan to build the kiln with a door not a car kiln.
So what do you guys think concrete slab or plain ole dirt????
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com
Hank Murrow on wed 13 jul 05
On Jul 12, 2005, at 6:31 PM, Gene Arnold wrote:
> Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well
> compacted soil as opposed to a concrete slab???
Dear Gene;
I would eschew the concrete slab unless you want to put a piece of
sheet metal under the kiln to prevent wicking of moisture from the slab
into the brickwork. I think you would be better off adding some crushed
rock to your site and compact that to support your kiln.
We placed sheet metal over the slab in Aspen, and the firing time
dropped quite a lot because we were not heating up groundwater anymore.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on wed 13 jul 05
>>>>>Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well
compacted soil as opposed to a concrete slab???>>>>
Does it every rain in your area? Walking around one spot for any amount of
time and you get mud, around here red mud that does not wash off.
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al
Potters Council Members
William & Susan Schran User on wed 13 jul 05
On 7/12/05 9:31 PM, "Gene Arnold" wrote:
> So what do you guys think concrete slab or plain ole dirt????
My first reaction would be to go with a concrete slab. Even compacted dirt
may not stay level over time with a great deal of weight that will remain in
one place.
But maybe you could make it work with a thickish layer of gravel, a couple
layers of cement board, cinder blocks, expanded metal, then start with
firebrick. Don't know for sure.
I would hate to see you be "penny wise and pound foolish", saving some money
up front, then ending up spending more to correct future problems.
--
William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Gordon Ward on wed 13 jul 05
Gene & Latonna,
My first high fire gas kiln was built on concrete block over compact
soil. It was dry stacked soft brick w/ sprung arch. I fired it for 4
years without any signs of settling or movement. I have seen many
others built this way without problems. That isn't to say that a slab
wouldn't be more stable. However, there is no guarantee that a slab
won't move over time either, but if it's thick enough and properly
reenforced, it should at least remain flat. My $0.02.
Happy kiln building,
Gordon
On Jul 12, 2005, at 6:31 PM, Gene Arnold wrote:
> Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well
> compacted soil as opposed to a concrete slab???
>
> Under the shed behind our studio the ground has been walked on, driven
> on and generally compacted for about 20 years at least maybe more. I
> was planning to pour a concrete slab until a friend said what we had
> was already hard as concrete. Why waste the money he said. I would
> prefer to leave it natural if there are no adverse effect to the kiln
> or a disadvantage to building on dirt.
>
> I plan to build the kiln with a door not a car kiln.
>
> So what do you guys think concrete slab or plain ole dirt????
>
>
> Gene & Latonna
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
> www.mudduckpottery.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kathi LeSueur on thu 14 jul 05
Gene Arnold wrote:
>Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well compacted soil as opposed to a concrete slab???>>>>>>>
>
>
>
>
I think you would be fine as long as you put down a base of cinder
blocks. This is what I did when I first moved back from Texas.
Kathi
Marcia Selsor on thu 14 jul 05
On Jul 14, 2005, at 5:51 AM, Kathi LeSueur wrote:
> Gene Arnold wrote:
>
>
>> Would there be any disadvantage to building a gas kiln on well
>> compacted soil as opposed to a concrete slab???>>>>>>>
>>
>>
>> If there is any washout from a heavy rain, even on cinderblock,
>> you could get movement in your brick walls. If your type of
>> construction is dry stacked, which is the common way to build a
>> kiln, you would have big problems with the arch losing its tension
>> and eventually clasping. I always cast a concrete pad and use
>> cinderblocks to raise the floor to a comfortable height for stacking.
Marcia Selsor
>> .
Donna Kat on thu 14 jul 05
I would get some crushed granite to lay down over the surface and compress
this. If it is raised a bit above the soil and leveled nicely you won't
get rain water pooling and being sucked up by the bricks which could cause
problems IMO. I see nothing special about concrete other than it giving a
stable surface that isn't going to shift and cause the bricks to crack. Do
you live where it freezes? Are you building any type of roofing to keep
the weather out? Donna
richard on tue 6 sep 05
Hello,
Please send me more info on the the gas kiln for sale. Is it a commercial
kiln? Do you have pictures? price? zip code?
Thank you,
Richard
richard_ws@yahoo.com
Steve Hoffman on tue 2 mar 10
Kiln Wanted
Gas Kiln 10 to 30 cubic foot
In the North East USA
Steve
digdeep100@gmail.com
phone 860-930-4755
James Miner on sun 8 jul 12
I've outgrown my Olympic Torchbearer 2327 kiln. It has been great,
but it is too small for my larger plates and vases. I was hoping
someone had a larger Torchbearer or other gas kiln (Olympic, Bailey,
etc.) and wanted to downsize or sell outright. Any leads out there?
Thanks
Jim
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