Talbott on wed 8 jan 97
Jeff...
I feel that arched roofs are much stronger than flat roofs (Be
warned..I am not an expert on this...) and keeps the top-shelf green ware
from heating up too quickly during a bisque firing. I would try to
configure the arch mathematically so that every brick was an arch brick and
not every other brick an arch. I would also build a double arch roof (two
layers of arch bricks vs one layer). I would get Nils Lou's book .. "The
Art of Firing" and study his diagrams. I would also find a nearby welder
that could do the metal frame work. I would find a gas car kiln and study
that way it was constructed so that I was familiar with the basic
structure. Our kiln probably cost $3000-$4000 total...If we had puchase a
similar brand name kiln it would have probably cost about $20,000 or so
when you added in SHIPPING COST for such a monster. The first kiln is the
scariest one. Once you do it ... then you really will be set and ready to
build a second.. I have a band saw and a chop saw with mason blades and
that made it easy as far as cutting the "special" IFBs , such as the under
the arch bricks, and "specials" for hardbricks etc. Check the phone book..
yellow pages.. for refractory companys for a source of IFBs and hard
bricks, this can save you costly shipping. And LEVEL your base above the
slab before you start laying you hard and then soft IFB's. Also check
with potters in your area.. they may be willing to advise you on building
your first kiln...AND PLAN your CAR KILN space so that you have adequate
room to load and unload your kiln..better too big a space than too little a
space...If your kiln is outside make sure to build the concrete slab so
that it is ABOVE grade (who needs flooding?) Enclose the kiln to some
extent so it is protected from the elements (water... especially) I hope
that this helps... Let me know how it goes... Marshall
>Hi,
>
>I'm going around about to build or shop for a used kiln and am batting the
>MFT idea around. When I price it out, turns out 4-6000 clams (outch!). Still
>better than the name brands, but I'm cheap.
>
>Did yours cost that much? Any suggestions that would hold costs down? Any
>other gotchas that I ought to know about?
>
>My brilliant associate also advocates an arch if we build the MFT. Can you
>make him feel smarter by sharing your flat/arch thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>Jeff
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1ST ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY-NAPLES, ME (Summmer 1997) {contact me
directly for more information}
Celia & Marshall Talbott
Pottery By Celia
Route 114
P.O. Box 4116
Naples, Maine 04055-4116
(207)693-6100 voice and fax
clupus@ime.net
web-site is "overdue" and will be coming soon...
Craig Martell on thu 9 jan 97
In a message dated 97-01-08 08:43:41 EST, Marshall Talbott wrote:
<< I have a band saw and a chop saw with mason blades and
that made it easy as far as cutting the "special" IFBs , such as the under
the arch bricks, and "specials" for hardbricks etc. >>
Hi Folks: Just thought I'd throw this in for what it's worth. When I built
my Salt Kiln, which was mostly hard bricks, I rented a tile "wetsaw" with a
10" blade. These saws will cut through the hardest bricks you can imagine
with very little effort and NO DUST because of the water jet on the blade.
This made a hard and dirty job a lot easier. I also use tile saws to make
shelf posts, works great. I got the saw at a chain store called "Tile for
Less". The cost was $25.00 a day. Oh, I forgot to mention it, the cuts
these saws make are VERY smooth and polished.
Happy Kilnbuilding, Craig Martell-Oregon
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