paul m wilmoth on wed 6 aug 97
Hello All,
I have been looking for a 04 lithium matt glaze similar to Jaquie's Base
that is called "ACE". I would like to give this glaze a test run and
check it out. Anyone know of this one? TIA - Paul W.
SBRANFPOTS on thu 18 dec 97
Fellow Rakuists,
I'm looking for a raku glaze that goes by the name "Candy Raku" Anybody ever
heard of it?
Steven Branfman
Deeclay on mon 19 jan 98
Just came back from the Beaux Arts Festival in Miami, Fl. Very nice this year,
plenty of potters.
Spoke with someone using Shaner's Base (clear ^6 oxidation) with oxides. Does
anyone have a recipe? Thanks in advance I know I'll hear from a few souls.
Diane in Cool 58 degrees Miami
deeclay@aol.com
Sande Benscoter on mon 2 nov 98
Hi Fellow Clayarters!
This is being sent from my other 'e' address. Hope it makes it through
(or I'll have to retype and resend!)
A friend recently sent me a glaze she uses. She said it has a wide firing
range between cone 5 - 7. It is as follows:
Custer 38
Frit # 3124 9
Whiting 14
Silica 15
EPK 19
Ba 5
Li 5
The glaze has a soft buttery feel, which I am looking for in a base
glaze. I try to stay away from barium and lithium (even in small
percentages) in my glazes. This is also above 100%.
Any discussion or suggestions pertaining to this glaze would be greatly
appreciated.
Reformulation a better idea?
Sande
sbenscoter@juno.com
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Marcia Selsor on tue 3 nov 98
Here is a nice base glaze we use for ^6 reduction.We call it White Liner.
been using it so long I don't remember the source.
Ger. Bor. 20
Neph Sy 30
EPK 13.3
Whiting 9.4
Talc 17.2
Flint 10
Zircopax 15
for other colors add:
3% iron Oxide
5% rutile = Pumpkin/or Oakleaf
3% iron
3% rutile = spicy mustard
..5 cobalt carb
..5 rutile = light blue
3% rutile= gold
Sande Benscoter wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi Fellow Clayarters!
>
> This is being sent from my other 'e' address. Hope it makes it through
> (or I'll have to retype and resend!)
>
> A friend recently sent me a glaze she uses. She said it has a wide firing
> range between cone 5 - 7. It is as follows:
>
> Custer 38
> Frit # 3124 9
> Whiting 14
> Silica 15
> EPK 19
> Ba 5
> Li 5
>
> The glaze has a soft buttery feel, which I am looking for in a base
> glaze. I try to stay away from barium and lithium (even in small
> percentages) in my glazes. This is also above 100%.
>
> Any discussion or suggestions pertaining to this glaze would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Reformulation a better idea?
>
> Sande
> sbenscoter@juno.com
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Billy Winer on wed 4 nov 98
Does your ^6 reduction glaze work in oxidation also? Thanks, Billy
Marcia Selsor wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Here is a nice base glaze we use for ^6 reduction.We call it White Liner.
> been using it so long I don't remember the source.
>
> Ger. Bor. 20
> Neph Sy 30
> EPK 13.3
> Whiting 9.4
> Talc 17.2
> Flint 10
>
> Zircopax 15
>
> for other colors add:
> 3% iron Oxide
> 5% rutile = Pumpkin/or Oakleaf
>
> 3% iron
> 3% rutile = spicy mustard
>
> .5 cobalt carb
> .5 rutile = light blue
>
> 3% rutile= gold
>
> Sande Benscoter wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> > Hi Fellow Clayarters!
> >
> > This is being sent from my other 'e' address. Hope it makes it through
> > (or I'll have to retype and resend!)
> >
> > A friend recently sent me a glaze she uses. She said it has a wide firing
> > range between cone 5 - 7. It is as follows:
> >
> > Custer 38
> > Frit # 3124 9
> > Whiting 14
> > Silica 15
> > EPK 19
> > Ba 5
> > Li 5
> >
> > The glaze has a soft buttery feel, which I am looking for in a base
> > glaze. I try to stay away from barium and lithium (even in small
> > percentages) in my glazes. This is also above 100%.
> >
> > Any discussion or suggestions pertaining to this glaze would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Reformulation a better idea?
> >
> > Sande
> > sbenscoter@juno.com
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Marcia Selsor on thu 5 nov 98
It should work in ox. except the oxides may need to be cut back a little.
Marcia
Billy Winer wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does your ^6 reduction glaze work in oxidation also? Thanks, Billy
>
> Marcia Selsor wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > Here is a nice base glaze we use for ^6 reduction.We call it White Liner.
> > been using it so long I don't remember the source.
> >
> > Ger. Bor. 20
> > Neph Sy 30
> > EPK 13.3
> > Whiting 9.4
> > Talc 17.2
> > Flint 10
> >
> > Zircopax 15
> >
> > for other colors add:
> > 3% iron Oxide
> > 5% rutile = Pumpkin/or Oakleaf
> >
> > 3% iron
> > 3% rutile = spicy mustard
> >
> > .5 cobalt carb
> > .5 rutile = light blue
> >
> > 3% rutile= gold
> >
> > Sande Benscoter wrote:
> > >
> > > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > >
> > > Hi Fellow Clayarters!
> > >
> > > This is being sent from my other 'e' address. Hope it makes it through
> > > (or I'll have to retype and resend!)
> > >
> > > A friend recently sent me a glaze she uses. She said it has a wide firing
> > > range between cone 5 - 7. It is as follows:
> > >
> > > Custer 38
> > > Frit # 3124 9
> > > Whiting 14
> > > Silica 15
> > > EPK 19
> > > Ba 5
> > > Li 5
> > >
> > > The glaze has a soft buttery feel, which I am looking for in a base
> > > glaze. I try to stay away from barium and lithium (even in small
> > > percentages) in my glazes. This is also above 100%.
> > >
> > > Any discussion or suggestions pertaining to this glaze would be greatly
> > > appreciated.
> > >
> > > Reformulation a better idea?
> > >
> > > Sande
> > > sbenscoter@juno.com
> > >
> > > ___________________________________________________________________
> > > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> > > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> > > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Ron Roy on tue 10 nov 98
This glaze is seriously short of silica at cone 6 - I would not recommend
it as a liner glaze - paticularly with colours added. The zirconium
slilicate (zircopax) does have some stabalizing affect on glazes but the
silica is so low it will not help much.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Here is a nice base glaze we use for ^6 reduction.We call it White Liner.
>been using it so long I don't remember the source.
>
>Ger. Bor. 20
>Neph Sy 30
>EPK 13.3
>Whiting 9.4
>Talc 17.2
>Flint 10
>
>Zircopax 15
>
>for other colors add:
>3% iron Oxide
>5% rutile = Pumpkin/or Oakleaf
>
>3% iron
>3% rutile = spicy mustard
>
>.5 cobalt carb
>.5 rutile = light blue
>
>3% rutile= gold
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Tom Buck on tue 1 dec 98
Sande:
Your un-named glaze (below) adds up to 105 --anything added or
missing?
As presented this is a Calcium/Barium Alumina matt that will
likely present a satiny finish on some claybodies, and may craze on
others. It likely will need some soaking to eliminate pinholes. Here is
the Seger:
Benscoter c6 ox glaze
BaO 0.08 B2O3 0.05 SiO2 2.79
CaO 0.50 Al2O3 0.42
Li2O 0.21 Ratio= 6.4 (SiO2/Al2O3)
KNaO 0.21 CO Expansion= 7.5 x 10-6
The usual Seger for a C6 ox glaze is: CaO+KNaO = 1 (or close to that if
other flux oxides are involved); Al2O3 = 3.5 (max.); B2O3 = 0 to 0.4; and
SiO2 2.5 to 3.5 (max.).
So, on this basis, your glaze is low on silica, high on alumina,
which means the glaze will go mattish, with Barium and Calcium Aluminate
crystals forming on the surface. With a calculated expansion of 7.5 this a
bit high even for stoneware bodies; 7.0 would be better.
I suggest you omit the Barium Carbonate, use Wollastonite in its
place (or Strontium carbonate, 4 units). You thusly avoid any possible
Barium ion loss from the surface by leaching.
If you wish then to matt the glaze more, add small amounts of a
Whiting/EPK mix (50/50) until you get the surface you want.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
& snailmail: 373 East 43rd St. Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Sande Benscoter wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi Fellow Clayarters!
>
> This is being sent from my other 'e' address. Hope it makes it through
> (or I'll have to retype and resend!)
>
> A friend recently sent me a glaze she uses. She said it has a wide firing
> range between cone 5 - 7. It is as follows:
>
> Custer 38
> Frit # 3124 9
> Whiting 14
> Silica 15
> EPK 19
> Ba 5
> Li 5
>
> The glaze has a soft buttery feel, which I am looking for in a base
> glaze. I try to stay away from barium and lithium (even in small
> percentages) in my glazes. This is also above 100%.
>
> Any discussion or suggestions pertaining to this glaze would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Reformulation a better idea?
>
> Sande
> sbenscoter@juno.com
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
Cathy Whitehead on thu 30 dec 99
-------------------
is there a clear glaze that fires to cone 2
sharon on fri 7 jul 00
Frank, THANKS SO MUCH! Do you also happen to have the amounts of =
colorant.> As I recall, emerald green used copper carb, of course, but =
there was also a blue green (and she said one could experiment w/ mason =
stain.) THANK YOU! Sharon
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Gaydos
To: sharon.miranda@oberlin.edu
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:10 PM
Subject: Glaze
=20
=20
Sharon,
Sandy lives near me and here is the glaze:
Good Luck,
Frank
=20
GBorate 31.54
Lithium Carb. 8.7
N.Synite 8.7
EPK 4.15
Flint 34.86
Whiting 16.6
=20
=20
Frank Gaydos
510 Gerritt St.
Philadelphia, Pa.
19147-5821 USA
=20
http://home.earthlink.net/~fgaydos/
Tom & Deb Tucker on mon 26 mar 01
Hi,
Im new to the list and needed info.I was reading CM and saw a glaze
called Tiger Eye. Now I hope someone has seen it or better yet has it
thanks for any info.
DebbieTucker
rekcut@tusco.net
Ababi on mon 26 mar 01
Hi Debbie!
Welcome to yhe list!
I live in Israel. The C.M. travles slowly obve the ocean.
Some people don't read the C.M. , but if you will write down the recipe, we
might help you. We, bunch of people, hear the word glaze - become 'high' !
Ababi Sharon
ababisha@shoval.ardom.co.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Deb Tucker"
To:
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:27 AM
Subject: Glaze
> Hi,
> Im new to the list and needed info.I was reading CM and saw a glaze
> called Tiger Eye. Now I hope someone has seen it or better yet has it
> thanks for any info.
> DebbieTucker
> rekcut@tusco.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Tom & Deb Tucker on tue 27 mar 01
Thanks for the welcome! The glaze Im talking about I don't have the recipe all I
have is the Name. Not much!!!! I know but I can only hope somebody might know
the recipe the Name agian is Tiger Eye.
Debbie
Ababi wrote:
> Hi Debbie!
> Welcome to yhe list!
> I live in Israel. The C.M. travles slowly obve the ocean.
> Some people don't read the C.M. , but if you will write down the recipe, we
> might help you. We, bunch of people, hear the word glaze - become 'high' !
> Ababi Sharon
> ababisha@shoval.ardom.co.il
> http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Deb Tucker"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:27 AM
> Subject: Glaze
>
> > Hi,
> > Im new to the list and needed info.I was reading CM and saw a glaze
> > called Tiger Eye. Now I hope someone has seen it or better yet has it
> > thanks for any info.
> > DebbieTucker
> > rekcut@tusco.net
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
mudlady@ATT.NET on sun 28 oct 01
I recently went to the shino show in N.Y. and saw for
the first time "Sharkskin Shino". Does anyone out there
know the formula at ^10Redux.?
Thanks, mudlady@worldnet.att.net
Tony Olsen on fri 13 dec 02
OK, time to tap the vast, endless knowledge base known as "Clayart." =20
I have decided to start mixing my own glazes (^6.) Just need to know =
every detail for the newbie at mixing glazes (couldn't find a "Glaze =
mixing for Dummies" book or the Cliff notes.)=20
=20
e.g.: =20
When deciding on how much of each ingredient to use, is it measured by =
dry volume or by weight? =20
Also would like a few simple recipes that the rank beginner in this area =
could accomplish without total disaster.=20
Any help in the endeavor will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Tony
Linda Knapp on mon 16 dec 02
Tony Olsen wrote:
>I have decided to start mixing my own glazes (^6.) Just need to know every detail for the newbie at mixing glazes (couldn't find a "Glaze mixing for Dummies" book or the Cliff notes.)
>
>e.g.:
>When deciding on how much of each ingredient to use, is it measured by dry volume or by weight?
>
Glaze recipes are by weight.
>Also would like a few simple recipes that the rank beginner in this area could accomplish without total disaster.
>
Why don't you search clayart or
http://art.sdsu.edu:591/glazebasesearch.html for cone 6 recipes and just
try a couple that sound interesting.
I typically mix an approximately 1000 gm batch as a test batch. I find
that is enough to use to test on a few things but not too much to throw
away if it is too ugly. It also is enough that small percentages of
oxides are not too small an amount for the accuracy of my scale. You can
usually store the leftover in a big yogurt container. I use about a 2 -
3 gallon container to mix in.
Always mix up the dry ingredients well before adding water - especially
if using bentonite.
If I am testing coloring oxide amounts I will mix all the ingredients
with say a 1% amount of oxide dip some tests then add more oxide to make
it a 2% batch resieve then dip some more tests then add another amount
of oxide, etc. (Note: percentages would change depending on oxide ! )
Not 100% accurate and you do end up sieving a lot but a good way to test
how much oxides would be good in a glaze at the same time you are
testing the glaze.
Get a notebook - write down everything. I write (at least) date, recipe
as tested, what I marked on the test pieces and anything else I think
might be relevant. I then make notes on what it looked like when it came
out of the kiln. Never assume you will remember anything......I use one
of those bound lab books you can buy at office supply stores or
university bookstores.
I also have a binder which I use to printout and keep interesting
recipes or articles from the internet.
Get a pair of long rubber gloves and of course respirators - Even though
a lot of the recipes are not toxic to your skin - they are hard on it!
I can't think of anything else right off - Have fun!
Linda
From a very very wet Seattle......
Ababi on mon 16 dec 02
I will be glad to help you, can you please tell me what are you looking for in ^6? Matte
gloss ETC
For a start:
CLEAR (HUDDLESTON)
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
FRIT 3134 50.00
ENGLISH KAOLIN CC31 30.00
SILICA 20.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.339 6.26%
CaO 0.656 10.44%
MgO 0.005 0.06%
Al2O3 0.392 11.32%
B2O3 0.609 12.02%
SiO2 3.511 59.89%
K2O 0.033 0.87%
Na2O 0.306 5.39%
Al:Si 8.97
Expan. 7.33
ST 322.17
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
It gives you kind of yellowish gloss liner
You can play with this glaze. The best by using ceramic software but even without by
changing flux frits and learn the results.
For more specific questions you will get more specific answers.
Try:http://www.potters.org/category040.htm
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
and also
http://www.israel-ceramics.org/membersGallery/personalpage.asp?MID=507
---------- Original Message ----------
>OK, time to tap the vast, endless knowledge base known as "Clayart."
>I have decided to start mixing my own glazes (^6.) Just need to know every detail
for the
>newbie at mixing glazes (couldn't find a "Glaze mixing for Dummies" book or the Cliff
>notes.)
>
>e.g.:
>When deciding on how much of each ingredient to use, is it measured by dry volume
or
>by weight?
>Also would like a few simple recipes that the rank beginner in this area could
accomplish
>without total disaster.
>Any help in the endeavor will be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks. Tony
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ron Roy on thu 19 dec 02
This glaze has a fairy low expansion - better to do some fit testing
because it may crack pots when used on some clay bodies.
RR
>CLEAR (HUDDLESTON)
>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
>Cone 6
>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
>FRIT 3134 50.00
>ENGLISH KAOLIN CC31 30.00
>SILICA 20.00
>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
> Seger Weight%
>KNO 0.339 6.26%
>CaO 0.656 10.44%
>MgO 0.005 0.06%
>Al2O3 0.392 11.32%
>B2O3 0.609 12.02%
>SiO2 3.511 59.89%
>K2O 0.033 0.87%
>Na2O 0.306 5.39%
>Al:Si 8.97
>Expan. 7.33
>ST 322.17
>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
>It gives you kind of yellowish gloss liner
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Ababi on thu 19 dec 02
Hello Ron
This glaze as well as yours gloss liner passed the stickiest tests ( means yours.)
Because of the higher cost I use with my students mainly yours, as for myself I prefer
this one.
---------- Original Message ----------
>This glaze has a fairy low expansion - better to do some fit testing
>because it may crack pots when used on some clay bodies.
>RR
>>CLEAR (HUDDLESTON)
>>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>>
>>Cone 6
>>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>>
>>FRIT 3134 50.00
>>ENGLISH KAOLIN CC31 30.00
>>SILICA 20.00
>>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>>
>> Seger Weight%
>>KNO 0.339 6.26%
>>CaO 0.656 10.44%
>>MgO 0.005 0.06%
>>Al2O3 0.392 11.32%
>>B2O3 0.609 12.02%
>>SiO2 3.511 59.89%
>>K2O 0.033 0.87%
>>Na2O 0.306 5.39%
>>Al:Si 8.97
>>Expan. 7.33
>>ST 322.17
>>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>>
>>It gives you kind of yellowish gloss liner
>Ron Roy
>RR#4
>15084 Little Lake Road
>Brighton, Ontario
>Canada
>K0K 1H0
>Phone: 613-475-9544
>Fax: 613-475-3513
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
pelin_baykal on thu 23 dec 04
Hi!
I want to make low fire glaze. I use low fire glaze on the
claybricks.
Don't I use frit for making low fire glaze. And also, I use PbO,
B2O3. But there are lost of craks on the surface. How composition I use
for orderly surface? I fired the glaze 900 C.
I hope, you reply my questions.
Thanks so much!..... width=100% bgcolor=white>
|
Centa Uhalde on fri 20 jan 06
I have a small hand made dish that I've had for some years that has a glaze
I love would like to replicate. It has a buttery color and texture, satiny
with spots of sheen, and other than that not sure how to describe. I would
like to show it to somebody knowledgeable about glazes, like Pete Pinnel or?
I'm not sure whether it is low or mid range. Any suggestions?
Centa
Ilene Mahler on wed 20 aug 08
I can never find were I put things...Last summer I e-mailed with someone =
who was trying to get a blue from waterfall brown and use copper and =
cobalt...PLEASE I need the percentages in those oxides...THANK YOu =
whoeve I e-mailed...Ilene in Conn who can hardly move because of the =
fantastic Richard Aerni workshop.....
Sumi von Dassow on wed 11 apr 12
I'm sure you'll get other suggestions but my old stand-by remedy that
has always worked for me is to add 1 or 2% of pearl ash. You can add it
to the already mixed batch if you have some idea how much is in your
bucket - just mix it with a bit water, stir up your glaze until you've
got the hard-pan mixed in, then pour in your pearl ash. Start with 1%,
if that doesn't do it add another 1%. I've never had a glaze negatively
affected by this treatment.
Sumi
> Help! I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans out almost =
immediately upon mixing. I keep an old table knife handy so that I can kee=
p on applying the glaze and would appreciate any adjustment that can be mad=
e so that it will remain in suspension. The glaze is as follows:
>
>
>
> GLACIER GREEN
>
>
>
> Custer feldspar 40
>
> Silica 30
>
> Whiting 20
>
> EPK 10
>
>
>
> Superpax 10
>
> Copper carb. 3
>
>
>
> I've tried adding some bentonite but it really hasn't helped.
>
>
>
> In advance, thanks, Mildred Herot (Hollow Tree Pottery)
>
>
milhero@COMCAST.NET on wed 11 apr 12
Help!=3DC2=3DA0 I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans out =
almo=3D
st immediately upon mixing.=3DC2=3DA0 I keep an old table knife handy so th=
at I=3D
can keep on applying the glaze and would appreciate any adjustment that ca=
=3D
n be made so that it will remain in suspension.=3DC2=3DA0 The glaze is as f=
ollo=3D
ws:=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0GLACIER GREEN=3D20
Custer feldspar =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA=
0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA040=3D20
Silica=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA=
0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA030=3D20
Whiting=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D=
A0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA020=3D
=3D20
EPK=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA010=3D20
Superpax =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA010=3D=
20
Copper carb. =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0 3=3D20
I've tried adding some bentonite but it really hasn't helped.=3D20
In advance, thanks,=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0 Mildred Herot=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0 (Hollow Tree Pottery)=3D20
James Freeman on wed 11 apr 12
On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 3:50 PM, wrote:
Help! I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans out almost
immediately upon mixing. I keep an old table knife handy so that I can
keep on applying the glaze and would appreciate any adjustment that can be
made so that it will remain in suspension.
Mildred...
Toss in a small handful of Epsom Salts. It won't alter your glaze in any
appreciable way, but will very quickly break up the hardpan into an easily
mixed slurry. I do this with all of my frit-based glazes, and anything
else that hardpans.
Good luck.
...James
James Freeman
"Talk sense to a fool, and he calls you foolish."
-Euripides
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Steve Mills on thu 12 apr 12
Dear Mildred,
With glazes like that I add 1 Dessert Spoon of a saturated solution of Calc=
i=3D
um Chloride per gallon, stirring as I add it.=3D20
Only if the glaze contains Bone Ash do I NOT use it.=3D20
Several of my glazes contain no clay, and it works very well with both type=
s=3D
- clay and no clay!
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 11 Apr 2012, at 20:50, milhero@COMCAST.NET wrote:
> Help! I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans out almost =
i=3D
mmediately upon mixing. I keep an old table knife handy so that I can keep=
o=3D
n applying the glaze and would appreciate any adjustment that can be made s=
o=3D
that it will remain in suspension. The glaze is as follows:=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> GLACIER GREEN=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Custer feldspar 40=3D20
>=3D20
> Silica 30=3D20
>=3D20
> Whiting 20=3D20
>=3D20
> EPK 10=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Superpax 10=3D20
>=3D20
> Copper carb. 3=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> I've tried adding some bentonite but it really hasn't helped.=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> In advance, thanks, Mildred Herot (Hollow Tree Pottery)=3D20
Paul Herman on thu 12 apr 12
Mildred,
Like James says, use epsom salt. I add .5% to a similar glaze and it
cures the settling problem.
best,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/
On Apr 11, 2012, at 12:50 PM, milhero@comcast.net wrote:
> Help! I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans out
> almost immediately upon mixing. I keep an old table knife handy so
> that I can keep on applying the glaze and would appreciate any
> adjustment that can be made so that it will remain in suspension.
> The glaze is as follows:
>
>
>
> GLACIER GREEN
>
>
>
> Custer feldspar 40
>
> Silica 30
>
> Whiting 20
>
> EPK 10
>
>
>
> Superpax 10
>
> Copper carb. 3
>
>
>
> I've tried adding some bentonite but it really hasn't helped.
>
>
>
> In advance, thanks, Mildred Herot (Hollow Tree Pottery)
ronroy@CA.INTER.NET on thu 12 apr 12
Hi Mildred,
I don't understand why this glaze is hard panning - unless you are =3D20
using Neph Sy instead of Custer?
I can reformulate it with ball clay instead of EPK if you tell me what =3D2=
0
ball clay you have or can get.
Some times this problem is the result of the water you are using - you =3D2=
0
could try it with distilled water to see if that is the problem.
In the meantime the epson salts should work but if you use too much =3D20
you get the opposite effect so add small amounts at a time - it's also =3D2=
0
better to dissolve it in water - say 4 table spoons in a cup of hot =3D20
water - and add it a table spoon at a time - stir - wait 10 minutes - =3D20
add more if needed.
RR
Quoting milhero@COMCAST.NET:
> Help!=3DC2=3DA0 I have a glaze that I use quite frequently and it pans ou=
t =3D
=3D20
> almost immediately upon mixing.=3DC2=3DA0 I keep an old table knife handy=
s=3D
o =3D20
> that I can keep on applying the glaze and would appreciate any =3D20
> adjustment that can be made so that it will remain in suspension.=3DC2=3D=
A0=3D
=3D20
> The glaze is as follows:
>
>
>
> =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D=
C2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0GLACIER GREEN
>
>
>
> Custer feldspar =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA04=3D
0
>
> Silica=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA030
>
> Whiting=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA02=3D
0
>
> EPK=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA010
>
>
>
> Superpax =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC=
2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
10
>
> Copper carb. =3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3D
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0 3
>
>
>
> I've tried adding some bentonite but it really hasn't helped.
>
>
>
> In advance, thanks,=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0 Mildred Herot=
=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3D
=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0 (Hollow Tree Pottery)
>
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