Palmatory on mon 10 feb 97
Dear Clayart,
I am wondering if there is something that I could add to my
underglazes and/or slips that would extend the drying time so I could
work back into them similar to working in acrylic paints. I don't need
them to stay workable for an excessive amount of time, but long enough
to blend in other colors. Has anyone done this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Sharon Palmatory
Art Department
Mary Washington College
Fredericksburg, VA
Lili Krakowski on tue 11 feb 97
Way way back in the 40s I read a wonderful book on pottery--in fact it
pointed me down the primrose path I'm still scampering along--and "they"
used a lot of glycerin. I pretty often use glycerin for purposes akin
to what you seem to be looking for. Glycerin at the drugstore is costly,
but the stuff is used in making icings or frostings or candy or
something--in other words restaurants suppliers have it, and a little goes
a long way. AS I SAID; NOT IDEA IF IT WILL DO WHAT YOU ARE THINKING OF.
For $1.25 or so it's worth a try? Thin it with water to make it flow out
of your brush--see what happens....lettuce know
Lili Krakowski lkkrakow@edisto.cofc.edu
On Mon, 10 Feb 1997, Palmatory wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Clayart,
>
> I am wondering if there is something that I could add to my
> underglazes and/or slips that would extend the drying time so I could
> work back into them similar to working in acrylic paints. I don't need
> them to stay workable for an excessive amount of time, but long enough
> to blend in other colors. Has anyone done this?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> Sharon Palmatory
> Art Department
> Mary Washington College
> Fredericksburg, VA
>
Sandra Dwiggins on wed 12 feb 97
Lily--will Corn Syrup or Karo Syrup do the same thing?
Sandy
Lili Krakowski on fri 14 feb 97
I really don't know. Why not try it? I have used Karo syrup in the
sudio but I have the problem that it does mould after a while. But if
you use a little at a time ? Why not mix up a tiny batch, using iron
oxide--the cheapest colorant as far as I know--test it on a tile, see
wotappens. Lettuce know. The great part of using Karo is that wonderful
caramel smell out fo the kion when it burns off. Yummy.
Lili Krakowski lkkrakow@edisto.cofc.edu
On Wed, 12 Feb 1997, Sandra Dwiggins wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Lily--will Corn Syrup or Karo Syrup do the same thing?
> Sandy
>
Terrance Lazaroff on tue 25 feb 97
Lili:
I really like your post on using Glycerine. I believe, however the liquid
that you refer to as being used in icings and confections is called "Invert
syrup". The two appear and in fact taste similar. I purchased a bottle of
glycerine and tasted it. I have used sugar in glaze preparation and find
that it must be prepared as invert syrup not just added to the glaze mix.
Using corn syrup or Honey will give similar results. The reason I used the
sugar was to improve the handling capability of powdery glazed pieces when
packing a kiln. I have since started using Borax in my glazes and find
that the skin is very hard. I also find that It works great as a second
firing glaze as it sticks to the first glaze and forms a very strong skin.
The negative side of Borax is the solubility thing. When I find crystals I
seive my glaze and then place the material left on the screen into a bit of
glaze and bring the mixture to a boil. This melts the crystals and the
liquid is reintroduced into my mixture. It is a bit of work but is works
for me.
The reason I am excited about the glycerine is that I decorate with slips and
engobes and I am looking for a smoother application mix. I will be
experimenting with the Glycerine, Not eating it , later this week.
Good Potting
Terrance F Lazaroff
St Hubert, Quebec, Canada !!!!!!!!!
Chris Cantello on wed 16 feb 00
-------------------
Hi there the best way I=92ve hard of to extend a glaze is to add some ante
freeze to it. A tec. at mason stain co. once told me that I should make a
mix of 50=25 ante freeze and 50=25 H2o and add that to the dry glaze. This
makes the glaze paint over any surface better.Good Luck :)
John Rodgers on thu 17 feb 00
------------------
This may work becasue antifreeze has a wetting agent in it. Probably =
anything
else with a wetting agent or detergent in it would work. Don't confuse
detergent with soap or washing detergent. A detergent generally has no
foaming action at all. Foaming agents are added to the detergent to make the
foam. While the foaming/sudsing may help some, it is mostly to aid sales, =
not
cleaning. Because the public feels like a soap product isn't doing the job
without sudsing, companies add that agent to the mix. The detergent is the
real worker.
Amway used to sell a wetting agent/detergent that worked. Don't know if they
still do or not. You can buy a product called Redline Water Wetter from some
automotive stores. It is a wetting agent that you ad to you auto engine
coolant to make coolant have better contact with the various parts of the
engine to pick up heat and better contact with the radiator parts to better
transfer heat away from the coolant through the radiator material to the
moving air for better cooling. Should work fine in a glaze.
I haven't tried either antifreeze or water wetter in a glaze but the concept
seems sound enough to me.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
Chris Cantello wrote:
=3E ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E -------------------
=3E Hi there the best way I=92ve hard of to extend a glaze is to add some =
ante
=3E freeze to it. A tec. at mason stain co. once told me that I should make =
a
=3E mix of 50=25 ante freeze and 50=25 H2o and add that to the dry glaze. =
This
=3E makes the glaze paint over any surface better.Good Luck :)
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