cape1764@biddeford.com on sat 27 apr 96
Howdy... I just opened a kiln in which Rhodes clear It did great on once fire
porcelain but crawled off once fire stoneware. Does anyone have a once-fire ^9
reduction (or ox.) glossy clear glaze that does well on stoneware? I tried to
look up in the clayart archives but couldn't locate anything. TIA Tracy
Kurt Unterschuetz on thu 6 jun 96
I am looking (4 a friend) for a cone 06 white crackle glaze to be put on
talc tiles or whiteware and fired in an electric Skutt 1027 kiln. Any help
would be appreciated, especially since I constantly rave about Clayart and am
urging her to get online. TIA.
Kurt Unterschuetz
SchatziBoyz Pottery
Marengo, IL USA
Kaname Takada on fri 7 jun 96
Hi Kurt,
This is Crackle White I adjusted from Wothington's Clear.It is semi-opaque
white.
Crackle White Cone 06 - 04
Gerstley Borate 55
EPK 30
Flint 15
Cryolite 15
Zircopax 15
You can change the size of crackles by adjusting the amount of cryolite.
Kaname
Patrice Murtha on sat 8 aug 98
Would anyone on Clayart have the recipe for Piepenburg Patina?
cafish on sun 9 aug 98
In his Raku Pottery and Spirit of Clay books it says:
Piepenberg Patina
4 Parts Gerstley Borate
3 Parts Bone Ash
2 Parts Nepheline Syenite
1 Part Copper Carbonate
Cheryl Fisher
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL
Charlie on sun 9 aug 98
Patrice Murtha wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Would anyone on Clayart have the recipe for Piepenburg Patina?
Patrice
It's a 4/3/2/1 glaze by parts(scoops...what ever).
gerstley borate-------------4
bone ash--------------------3
nepheline syenite-----------2
copper carbonate------------1
have fun!
Charlie Riggs
Mike Gordon on mon 10 aug 98
Hi,
I have used this recipe for Pipenberg patina.50% frit 3134 - 50%
colemanite - 3%tin - 2 1/2% copper oxide. Mike
Leona Stonebridge Arthen on wed 12 aug 98
At 11:53 AM 8/9/98, Charlie wrote:
>It's a 4/3/2/1 glaze by parts(scoops...what ever).
>
>gerstley borate-------------4
>bone ash--------------------3
>nepheline syenite-----------2
>copper carbonate------------1
How is this fired and what are the expected results?
Leona
---
Leona Stonebridge Arthen
leona@javanet.com
Worthington, Massachusetts/USA
hal mc whinnie on thu 13 aug 98
it looks like a gloss glaze for cone 04 or raku
On Wed, 12 Aug 1998 12:12:19 EDT Leona Stonebridge Arthen
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>At 11:53 AM 8/9/98, Charlie wrote:
>>It's a 4/3/2/1 glaze by parts(scoops...what ever).
>>
>>gerstley borate-------------4
>>bone ash--------------------3
>>nepheline syenite-----------2
>>copper carbonate------------1
>
>How is this fired and what are the expected results?
>Leona
>
>
>---
>Leona Stonebridge Arthen
>leona@javanet.com
>Worthington, Massachusetts/USA
>
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Charlie on fri 14 aug 98
Leona Stonebridge Arthen wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> At 11:53 AM 8/9/98, Charlie wrote:
> >It's a 4/3/2/1 glaze by parts(scoops...what ever).
> >
> >gerstley borate-------------4
> >bone ash--------------------3
> >nepheline syenite-----------2
> >copper carbonate------------1
>
> How is this fired and what are the expected results?
> Leona
>
> ---
> Leona Stonebridge Arthen
> leona@javanet.com
> Worthington, Massachusetts/USA
Fire to 1850 ish in a raku kiln
Pull/reduce heavy. Oncover at 5-6 min. and cool with water when the
right color. If color shifts too quickly then refire and leave in can a
little longer. This glaze looks good when applied to "credit card"
thick or sprayed on thin. I like to cut a pattern into a sponge and
then daub it into the glaze(glaze has to be like sludge) and then print
the pattern onto a pot.....repeat proceedure.
Charlie
Everone has a different way to raku. This is just a starting point.
Experiment and take notes. That way you can, as one of our "clayarters"
says, you can repeat your mistakes exactly!!
muddpie on fri 14 aug 98
I beleive this was Pipenburg Patina....
----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
it looks like a gloss glaze for cone 04 or raku
On Wed, 12 Aug 1998 12:12:19 EDT Leona Stonebridge Arthen
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>At 11:53 AM 8/9/98, Charlie wrote:
>>It's a 4/3/2/1 glaze by parts(scoops...what ever).
>>
>>gerstley borate-------------4
>>bone ash--------------------3
>>nepheline syenite-----------2
>>copper carbonate------------1
>
>How is this fired and what are the expected results?
>Leona
>
>
>---
>Leona Stonebridge Arthen
>leona@javanet.com
>Worthington, Massachusetts/USA
>
Sheron Roberts on sun 19 mar 00
------------------
Greetings from NC, where the
weather flip flops from hot to cold
and everything has taken on a nice
pollen yellow color.
To any of you who use Phoenix clay
from Highwater (I fire Phoenix to
cone 10) I make the following
request,
Please, do you have a clear glaze
recipe that does not craze.
I bisque fire to cone 05.
I have tried several glaze recipes.
I have even tried porcelain recipes.
I have even tried glaze firing to cone 9.
I have a Skutt 1027KM and I always use
the slow settings.
I allow the kiln to cool to 150 - 100 F
before peeking or unloading. (I have
a grip on delayed gratification)
I have yet to produce a pot with a clear
glaze that does not graze, except for
one matte white, that if applied very, very
thin, works OK. It's just that I really
would like a glossy clear.
I have researched the Archives, but
would like to find out if any of you have
used or still use Phoenix, specifically.
Thanks for your help,
Sheron
gemini53=40weblnk.net
PS, I have tried the Berry Rust recipe from
the archives and really like it.
Sheron Roberts on sun 19 mar 00
------------------
I forgot to add to my post about
the clear glaze and crazing problem
on Phoenix, that it usually takes my
kiln 15 hours to reach cone 10 and
I program a hold time of 30 minutes.
Should this be longer?
Sheron
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Matthew Clemans on wed 29 mar 00
I'm looking for a light-medium blue Cone 9-10 Celadon that looks good on
porcelain. If anyone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.
--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Matthew Clemans
clemans@centre.edu
mclemans@hotmail.com
ICQ: 8555023
AIM: mttclmns
ph: 606.238.6659
"I like feminists - I think they're cute."
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Lana Reeves on wed 4 apr 01
Does anyone have a recipe for Chris Gustin's shino? I can't find my =
copy. It's very orange on stoneware, really good on porcelain. TIA, =
I'll send you a receipt.
Lana
kilnkat@rcn.com=20
Lee Love on thu 5 apr 01
I figure I need to start doing some glaze tests, get them every glaze firing from here on out. Of course, I'll use local
Mashiko glazes (won't have to use synthetic Mashiko Kaki), but I'll want to use some of my old standbyes from back home too.
I'll probably eventually do some soda firing here. You don't see much soda fired work. I feel like I owe it to people here, to
try and share some American glazes and firing techniques. I was given several Ceramic Monthlys recently and the one thing I am
struck by is that American stoneware, for the most part, is brighter colored.
Shinos here are just Hiratsu Choseki (Shino feldspar) on a specific claybody. But they are fired for very long
periods. I think I'll use Hiratsu as a base and add clay and soda ash (soda ash reduces the firing time.) Spodumene is
expensive and I don't know if Neph Sy is available.
Strontium is available, so I can make my Copper/Stron Blue, Purple, Red/Green. Everything needed for Rhodes 32 is
available (I often used it at the bottom of pots I put my runny ash glaze on.) My ash glaze will be easy to make, just need wood
ash, ball clay and iron.
You can buy every kind of ash at the clay cooperative, and you can get it washed, but it can cost as much as $200.00 a bag.
There are piles of Nuka ash in the rice fields near my home. The rice hulls are burnt in the fall, or put on the dirt roads as
filler. I should try and get to know the farmers, so I can ask for some of their nuka ash. There is a place that sells scrap
oak for firewood. We put a woodstove in the studio for heat. Next winter, I'll heat with oak and make my own dobai
(woodash.)
John Rodgers on sun 9 mar 08
I have serious need of a good green glaze that breaks brown on edges -
cone 5-6.
My floating blue does this really well on C5 B-mix, but I have not found
a good green that will do it.
Does anyone have a good Green-breaks-Brown recipe you would be willing
to share?
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Maid O'Mud on mon 10 mar 08
Just fire your FB 1 cone higher, and you'll get green.
Or if your clay won't stand higher firing, apply the
FB thinner. Either way you get green breaking brown.
And no need to mix another glaze.
Sam Cuttell
Maid O'Mud Pottery
RR 1
Melbourne, Ontario
N0L 1T0
CANADA
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
scuttell@ody.ca
-----Original Message-----
I have serious need of a good green glaze that breaks brown on edges - cone
5-6.
My floating blue does this really well on C5 B-mix, but I have not found a
good green that will do it.
Does anyone have a good Green-breaks-Brown recipe you would be willing to
share?
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
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11:07 AM
Steve Mills on mon 10 mar 08
Dear John,
Below is a recipe which we used to make and sell at Bath Potters Supplies, and which Mike Bailey and the late David Hewitt made up and published. The recipe is for Cone 8, but it might be open to modification to cone 6.
Variegated Green-Brown (parts by weight)
Potash Feldspar...........38
Dolomite......................16
Whiting........................13
Kaolin............................6
Ball Clay........................6
Flint or Quartz...............14
Red Iron Oxide................5
Copper Oxide..................2
The Ball clay used was/is TWVA by Watts Blake & Bearne and is fairly refractory.
Best regards.
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
John Rodgers wrote: I have serious need of a good green glaze that breaks brown on edges -
cone 5-6.
My floating blue does this really well on C5 B-mix, but I have not found
a good green that will do it.
Does anyone have a good Green-breaks-Brown recipe you would be willing
to share?
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
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Donna Kat on tue 11 mar 08
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0024.html
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0022.html
Both of these glazes give me a blush of rusty brown. It sounds like you are
looking for something else though. Have you considered just leaving out the
cobalt in the floating blue and adding copper?
John on his site on from above gives a recipe for floating green but for me
that came out an ugly opaque bright green (may work differently for you). Donna
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