Cummings Pottery on wed 20 nov 96
Hi Clayarters,
I have been busy getting ready for our potters' tour. Check out our
website: http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
I got lots of responses on solutions for our mailing list nightmare, and I
am planning on compiling the info. and sharing it with you, but it might be
after the holidays - ha!
Advise needed: I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my
platters for hanging, and they keep filling up with glaze. I am putting an
intense cobalt blue glaze on, and I have tried everything to keep the glaze
from pooling in the holes, ie., cleaning all glaze away, inserting
toothpicks with wax resist, and leaving them in for firing (^03), leaving
them out for the firing, praying to the kiln goddess, etc.
So, now I have about 6 really nice platters with filled up holes. I
tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound
{{{|}}}
( o o )
-------------------------.oooO----(_)---Oooo.--------------------------
Vashon Is., Wa. ***Pat*** patpots@wolfenet.com
http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
Vashon Potters' Tour Dec. 7-8 & 14-15
.oooO
-------------------------------( )-----Oooo.-------------------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
ktighe on thu 21 nov 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Clayarters,
> I have been busy getting ready for our potters' tour. Check out our
>website: http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>I got lots of responses on solutions for our mailing list nightmare, and I
>am planning on compiling the info. and sharing it with you, but it might be
>after the holidays - ha!
> Advise needed: I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my
>platters for hanging, and they keep filling up with glaze. I am putting an
>intense cobalt blue glaze on, and I have tried everything to keep the glaze
>from pooling in the holes, ie., cleaning all glaze away, inserting
>toothpicks with wax resist, and leaving them in for firing (^03), leaving
>them out for the firing, praying to the kiln goddess, etc.
> So, now I have about 6 really nice platters with filled up holes. I
>tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
>there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
>****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound
> {{{|}}}
> ( o o )
>-------------------------.oooO----(_)---Oooo.--------------------------
>Vashon Is., Wa. ***Pat***
>patpots@wolfenet.com
>http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>Vashon Potters' Tour Dec. 7-8 & 14-15
>
> .oooO
>-------------------------------( )-----Oooo.-------------------------
> \ ( ( )
> \_) ) /
> (_/
Pat, I bought a drill bit at True Value Hardware suitable for ceramic
use. I've only used it once, but it managed to get through about
one-eighth inch of pooled glaze. This took about 15 minutes. Keep it wet!
--Ken
June Perry on thu 21 nov 96
You may want to get a diamond drill bit to drill out those glaze filled
holes.
Regards,
June
Dave and Pat Eitel on thu 21 nov 96
> Advise needed: I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my
>platters for hanging, and they keep filling up with glaze. I am putting an
>intense cobalt blue glaze on, and I have tried everything to keep the glaze
>from pooling in the holes, ie., cleaning all glaze away, inserting
>toothpicks with wax resist, and leaving them in for firing (^03), leaving
>them out for the firing, praying to the kiln goddess, etc.
How 'bout just cleaning the holes out with a drill bit after you glaze? Or
making bigger holes? Or waxing the foot? Or making the foot so you can
wrap wire around it to make a hanger, so you don't need holes?
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
pots@cedarcreekpottery.com
http://www.cedarcreekpottery.com
Vince Pitelka on thu 21 nov 96
I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my platters for hanging, and
they keep
>filling up with glaze.
I also place holes (1/8"-dia.) through the foot of my platters. I have
eliminated the problem of glaze flowing into the holes by threading a damp
pipe-cleaner through the holes and leaving it there while I glaze the wares.
I then remove the pipe cleaner, re-moisten it, and run it in and out of the
hole a few times. This seems to remove enough glaze from around the
openings that the glaze does not flow into them. Of course, I tend to apply
my glazes thinly, which certainly makes them less likely to flow.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@Dekalb.Net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts, Smithville TN 37166
Jeff Lawrence on thu 21 nov 96
>****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound writes
>tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
>there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
>
You can do it with a Dremel (tm) Mototool or other such fitted with a
carbide tip. Big hardware stores usually have 'em. Still not much fun --
goggles are necessary and I highly recommend good earplugs. I'd try clogging
it with a fiber plug next time (haven't tried it, just mulling) and dremel
that out. I know, I know! don't use trademarks as generic verbs ... I'll go
xerox that warnung a bunch of times and scotchtape it up)
An ad for those carbide tips shows them boring a hole in a crystal goblet...
now there's a thought-provoking possibility for the holidays ...
Jeff Lawrence
Route 1 Box 394L
Espanola, NM 87532
jml@sundagger.com
505-753-5913 vox/fax
Suzanne Storer on fri 22 nov 96
Hi Pat,
I solved the problem of holes for hanging filling up with glaze by filling
them before glazing with the semi-hardened wax resist from the underside of
the lid on my jar of resist. The holes were located in the unglazed foot
which made this easy to do. I scrape a little gob on my finger and just
smear it in the hole. Worked great for the holes BUT the platters sometimes
cracked through the weekended spot where the hole was. So I switched clay
bodies. 10:14 AM 11/20/96 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Clayarters,
> I have been busy getting ready for our potters' tour. Check out our
>website: http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>I got lots of responses on solutions for our mailing list nightmare, and I
>am planning on compiling the info. and sharing it with you, but it might be
>after the holidays - ha!
> Advise needed: I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my
>platters for hanging, and they keep filling up with glaze. I am putting an
>intense cobalt blue glaze on, and I have tried everything to keep the glaze
>from pooling in the holes, ie., cleaning all glaze away, inserting
>toothpicks with wax resist, and leaving them in for firing (^03), leaving
>them out for the firing, praying to the kiln goddess, etc.
> So, now I have about 6 really nice platters with filled up holes. I
>tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
>there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
>****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound
> {{{|}}}
> ( o o )
>-------------------------.oooO----(_)---Oooo.--------------------------
>Vashon Is., Wa. ***Pat***
patpots@wolfenet.com
>http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>Vashon Potters' Tour Dec. 7-8 & 14-15
>
> .oooO
>-------------------------------( )-----Oooo.-------------------------
> \ ( ( )
> \_) ) /
> (_/
>
John Lockett on fri 22 nov 96
Hi Pat
Get a glass drill bit. Make a low wall of clay around the hole. Fill
resulting reservoir with a lubricating oil and drill away. BTW good for
drilling holes in tiles, mirrors etc.
regards
John
John Lockett | Here in Birmingham UK
jlockett@ninedud.u-net.com | Hub of the Universe
Don Goodrich on fri 22 nov 96
Pat,
Your problem with the glaze in the hanging holes of plates sounds a lot
like one I've had to deal with. I've spent a lot of time drilling out holes
using diamond drills in my Dremel tool, with a slight drip of water on the
hole to prevent the diamonds in the drill from overheating and becoming
unsoldered from the shank. I finally discovered that if you fill the hole
with something that comes out easily it's a lot easier to clean it out. Try a
paste of alumina with 2% bentonite and water in the hole before glazing (also
makes a good kiln wash), and try to keep the glaze away from the hole if at
all possible. Another similar approach would be to push a small plug of
wadding clay (75% alumina, 25% EPK, 25% Hawthorne bonding clay) slightly
into the hole before waxing and glazing, leaving the plug in place while
firing. Wadding clay breaks out pretty easily since it doesn't vitrify at
normal firing temperatures, so it might just do the trick for you.
Hope this helps.
Don Goodrich in suddenly snowcovered Zion, Illinois
Kirk Morrison on fri 22 nov 96
On 21 Nov 96 at 17:38, Jeff Lawrence wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound writes
> >tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
> >there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
> >
>
> You can do it with a Dremel (tm) Mototool or other such fitted with a
> carbide tip. Big hardware stores usually have 'em. Still not much fun --
> goggles are necessary and I highly recommend good earplugs. I'd try clogging
> it with a fiber plug next time (haven't tried it, just mulling) and dremel
> that out. I know, I know! don't use trademarks as generic verbs ... I'll go
> xerox that warnung a bunch of times and scotchtape it up)
>
> An ad for those carbide tips shows them boring a hole in a crystal goblet...
> now there's a thought-provoking possibility for the holidays ...
> Jeff Lawrence
> Route 1 Box 394L
> Espanola, NM 87532
> jml@sundagger.com
> 505-753-5913 vox/fax
>
My Dremel would do any of those task in a heart beat including the
Crystal Goblet If you go buy one be sure to get the carbide tips
and do not go for the Mighty Mite, buy the 115 AC model it is much
better than the battery one and runs much smoother.
I have one of each that they have made since the 1970's and I have
actually worn 2 of them out!
Kirk
Richard Gralnik on sat 23 nov 96
My instructor, Neil Moss, has a very slick solution to the "holes in the
footring for hanging wires" problem - he doesn't use any. Instead he
makes sure the foot ring either flares out, creating a groove where the
footring meets the pot or he intentionally adds a groove at that point.
Then when you hang the piece you loop a wire around the entire foot ring
instead of just through the holes.
This has a number of advantages over holes -
* it makes for a stronger mount because the weight of the piece is
supported by the entire foot.
* It allows you to anchor the piece in more than one place if
necessary. You can put 2 loops around the footring and anchor
them in the wall so the piece hangs between the anchor points.
This reduces the weight on each anchor considerably.
* It allows you to hang the piece any side up since you can spin it
around without worrying about keeping the wire holes at the top.
* You don't have to worry about the holes filling with glaze.
A friend of mine has a platter of Neil's hanging in his house. The platter
is over 2' in diameter. During the last earthquake my friend said the
platter didn't even move.
Richard
looking forward to finishing my kiln and making pots again...
At 08:22 AM 11/22/96 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Pat,
>I solved the problem of holes for hanging filling up with glaze by filling
>them before glazing with the semi-hardened wax resist from the underside of
>the lid on my jar of resist. The holes were located in the unglazed foot
>which made this easy to do. I scrape a little gob on my finger and just
>smear it in the hole. Worked great for the holes BUT the platters sometimes
>cracked through the weekended spot where the hole was. So I switched clay
>bodies. 10:14 AM 11/20/96 EST, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Hi Clayarters,
>> I have been busy getting ready for our potters' tour. Check out our
>>website: http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>>I got lots of responses on solutions for our mailing list nightmare, and I
>>am planning on compiling the info. and sharing it with you, but it might be
>>after the holidays - ha!
>> Advise needed: I have been putting holes on the foot(s) of my
>>platters for hanging, and they keep filling up with glaze. I am putting an
>>intense cobalt blue glaze on, and I have tried everything to keep the glaze
>>from pooling in the holes, ie., cleaning all glaze away, inserting
>>toothpicks with wax resist, and leaving them in for firing (^03), leaving
>>them out for the firing, praying to the kiln goddess, etc.
>> So, now I have about 6 really nice platters with filled up holes. I
>>tried drilling the holes, and managed to grind my drill bits to a nub. Is
>>there another type of drill bit that might work? Any other suggestions? TIA
>>****Pat**** in snowy Puget Sound
>> {{{|}}}
>> ( o o )
>>-------------------------.oooO----(_)---Oooo.--------------------------
>>Vashon Is., Wa. ***Pat***
>patpots@wolfenet.com
>>http://www.vashonisland.com/holidaytours
>>Vashon Potters' Tour Dec. 7-8 & 14-15
>>
>> .oooO
>>-------------------------------( )-----Oooo.-------------------------
>> \ ( ( )
>> \_) ) /
>> (_/
>>
>
>
JJHerb@aol.com on wed 27 nov 96
Diamond tools are the only way to go when doing fine grinding on glazes. The
large scale base smoothing can be done with silicon carbide abrasives but for
any sort of exact grinding - diamonds and a high rotation speed (for small
diameter bits).
Reviewing Moh s (the scratch hardness) hardness scale: remember that things
with smaller numbers are softer than things with larger numbers. Lower
numbered things do nothing to higher numbered things, higher numbered things
grind and destroy lower numbered things. This is a comparative scale from 1
to 10. #1 Talc - like th baby powder and what is in some glazes and throwing
bodies. #2 - Gypsum - Like the wall board, fingernails (2.5)are harder than
gypsum. #3 Halite - common table salt. #4 Fluorite - A common mineral,
often purple, has octahedral cleavage - scratches copper metal. #5 Apitite -
the material of which your teeth are composed, scratched by steel (5.5). #6
Feldspar - like the glaze ingredient, also occurrs in Bon Ami cleaning
powder, doesn t scratch most glass. #7 Quartz - flint the glaze ingredient,
scratches glass, steel, most metals. #8 Topaz - the semiprecious gem. #9
Corundum - naturally occurring crystals of aluminum oxide - saphire, ruby -
often used in sand paper. #10 Diamond - engagement rings, coring bits, rock
saws. The hardest material available. This scale is not linear, diamond is
MUCH harder than corundum and cuts it easily. Some man-made materials like
silicon carbide, tungstun carbide, and boron nitride are between aluminum
oxide and diamond in hardness. Most glazes must be in the 6 -7 range. Steel
bits are of no use. Silicon carbide grit and a rod would work - high speed
and lots of water, Diamonds are a grinders best friend. Get a dremel-type
tool, get some diamond bits, you can make holes in anything hard. Steady
pressure - no shocks, keep it cool with water. As always, Watch the dust,
wear a HEPA mask.
Joseph Herbert
JJHerb@aol.com
| |
|
