Dave Eitel on thu 9 may 96
>Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 09:31:59 +0100
>From:daveitel@execpc.com (Dave Eitel)
>Subject:green glaze
>
>
>>Here are a couple I've used: The shaner glaze NEEDS ^10 to be
>>glossy--and it is just what you describe you're looking for. Rob's is
>>more consistent and very similar--is glossy at ^9, whereas the Shaner is
>>matte. The original Rob's calls for barium carb, and I substituted
>>strontium. I use only half the amouint specified in this recipe. I
>>tested it without either barium or strontium, and it is still a good
>>glaze, but not quite as rich.
>>
>>Shaner Oribe--^10-11
>>custer 29.3
>>flint 24
>>whiting 21.2
>>talc 7.4
>>epk 11.9
>>bone ash 1
>>bentonite 1
>>copper carb 5.2
>>
>>Rob's green-^10
>>cornwall 75
>>whiting 18
>>cerstley borate 5
>>copper carb 10
>>strontium carb 7
>>bentonite 2
>>
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
daveitel@execpc.com
http://www.digivis.com/CedarCreek/home.html
Dave and Pat Eitel on sun 22 dec 96
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 00:18:09 -0500
>To: Dave and Pat Eitel
>From: ronroy@astral.magic.ca (Ron Roy)
>Subject: Re: Green glaze
>
>Hi Dave,
>
>You did not say if you wanted me to post to the list - that would be my
>preference so if you want - post it for me. You also did not say what cone
>so I guessed cone 10r.
>
>First I did some research on how much copper would remain soluble in a
>glaze - it seems to be around 5%. My conclusion about yours then would be:
>The copper is coming out of the glass as the glaze cools (super/over
>saturated with copper.) that would explain what happens with the acid - it
>is removing the layer of pure copper.
>
>The other part of your glaze I am unsure of is the Cornwall Stone. There
>are a number of different products with different analysis. Am I using the
>right one for the material you are using? Actually I will fax the mine and
>get a grip on this during the holidays. I'll post to the info to ClayArt.
>
>Your glaze - using the limits from Insight with B2O3 out of flux unity is
>short of silica. Add 10 more parts of silica to reach the lower limits.
>
>Your glaze calculated with B2O3 included in unity with fluxes using limits
>designed for that situation shows it is short of silica and alumina. Add 13
>silica and 11 EPK (parts) to get to minimum limits for a durable glaze.
>
>Actually I recommend doing a line blend between the two and reduce the
>copper carb to 5 or 6%
>
>The Shaner glaze can be made more durable by raising the silica to 30 and
>the EPK to 16. I am not so sure about the durability because of the copper
>- it has the reputation of making glazes more soluble.
>
>If some of this needs clarification let me know.
>
>Ron Roy
>Toronto, Canada
>Evenings, call 416 439 2621
>Fax, 416 438 7849
>
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
pots@cedarcreekpottery.com
http://www.cedarcreekpottery.com
Rich Germer on wed 19 nov 97
Does anyone know of a recipe for a green glaze--a somewhat bright green, kelly
green or similar--that is matte, drips to a sort of metallic gray, and fires
to cone 9 OXIDATION? I saw someone who had this glaze and he dexcribed it to
me but would not reveal the recipe. If anyone has any clues or helpful hints
I would appreciate it.
Rich Germer
rgermer@lsv.uky.edu
ginny bivaletz on thu 14 oct 99
in the september '99 ceramics monthly on page 75 the
top photo shows a porcelain 12" vase with a gray-green
glaze. i have used a glaze that looks identical to
this. it has wood ash,barium and copper. sometimes
there is much less gray and the green can be much
brighter. it's a wonderful glaze when it does it's
thing, but can often be very tempermental. i've tried
substituting strontium for barium at 75%, but the
results did not resemble this glaze at all. is anyone
familiar with a glaze like the one pictured and would
you share any insights you might have. thanks ginny
=====
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Paul Lewing on fri 21 jan 05
on 1/21/05 3:39 PM, Gene Arnold at mudduck@ADVI.NET wrote:
> The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes that
> I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
> glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas or
> where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
> cone 6 ox.
>
> Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming?
Of course you can get a glaze like that, Gene. Someone once did, so you
can, too. Here would be some guidelines for you:
You'll want to use copper as a colorant, rather than chrome or a stain,
because you want to keep it really clear. Copper's a solution color, the
others are suspension colors, and will opacify it to some degree. I'd keep
the copper as low as possible, in the interest of durability, but you'll
probably need at least 2% for a strong green. I'd try to keep it under 4%,
though.
You don't actually want it to be alkaline, you want it to be acidic. The
more acidic it is, the greener it will be. The more alkaline, the more
toward turquoise it will go. This means you want as much silica as you can
get in it, which will also help with durability. For a cone 6 glaze, you'd
probably want at least 3.5 molecular equivalents, 4 or more if you can
manage it.
Since you want it to pool, you'll want to keep the Si:Al ratio high, which
means that, with your high silica, you'll want to keep the alumina low.
You'd want to anyway, because if you get the alumina over about 3 molecular
equivalents, the green from copper starts to get less bright. This is a
balancing act, though, because you also want alumina for durability.
Choose the alkaline earths for fluxes rather than the alkalines. Calcium
will probably be your best choice here. Magnesium is not really an active
flux at that temperature; you want to avoid barium; zinc will mute the
bright green. Strontium would be a good choice for a second flux oxide,
maybe a tiny bit of lithium.
Since you want to avoid the very active fluxes sodium and potassium, you'll
need some boron to get it to melt and flow like you want.
OK, so if I were going to design this glaze, the molecular formula might
look something like this:
CaO .6 SrO .2 LiO2 .05 KNaO .1 B2O3 .3 Al2O3 .25 SiO2 4.0
I'd put that into a calculation program, and start building it with frit
3134 for the calcium and the boron, that way I could get all my Al2O3 from
clay. Then I'd add some feldspar for the KNaO, some lithium and strontium
carbonates for those oxides, fill out the alumina with EPK, and finish off
with the rest of the silica. Then I'd add 3% copper carbonate.
That's how I'd do it, but it's probably not how most people would. If you
try this, let me know how it works. I could be way off. What do I know?
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Elizabeth Priddy on fri 21 jan 05
Minnesota clay HG-12 mettallic Green
http://www.minnesotaclayusa.com/pdf/02glazes.pdf
I have used it forever and it is beautiful on white clay and rich on dark clay
cone 6
The chip on the website does not do it justice.
"Serving platters 20 inches across with glaze landscape designs. . ."
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com/mygallery.html
shows it overlapped with HG-3 light blue with clear over the both of them in a streak
clear texturizes their other glazes.
The clay body on that was a plain white stoneware with throwing rings allowing for the variation in the solid green area.
Gene Arnold wrote:
I have tested about 15 or 20 green glazes from various places and still have
not found the green I am trying for, even tried come concoctions of my own.
The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes that
I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas or
where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
cone 6 ox.
Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming????
If some one has a glaze like this that they would be willing to share I
would be most thankful!!!!!
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com
______________________________________________________________________________
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Elizabeth Priddy
252-504-2622
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Beaufort, NC 28516
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
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Gene Arnold on fri 21 jan 05
I have tested about 15 or 20 green glazes from various places and still have
not found the green I am trying for, even tried come concoctions of my own.
The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes that
I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas or
where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
cone 6 ox.
Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming????
If some one has a glaze like this that they would be willing to share I
would be most thankful!!!!!
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com
MudPuppy on fri 21 jan 05
I am not sure if this is close, but I have an olive green celadon that I
added some tin to that I like.
Would that be something to try?
You could use Ian Currie's grid to adjust to ^6...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Arnold"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 5:39 PM
Subject: Green glaze
> I have tested about 15 or 20 green glazes from various places and still
have
> not found the green I am trying for, even tried come concoctions of my
own.
>
> The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes
that
> I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
> glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas or
> where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
> cone 6 ox.
>
> Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming????
>
> If some one has a glaze like this that they would be willing to share I
> would be most thankful!!!!!
>
>
> Gene & Latonna
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
> www.mudduckpottery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 22 jan 05
Dear Gene Arnold,
If you are speaking of the transparent green on antique, say 18th &
19th Ct domestic ware it may be attributable to a Raw Lead Glaze
stained with Copper derived from Brass Filings over a white or light
yellow slip.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.
Joe and Lisa Troncale on sat 22 jan 05
There is a glaze that is supposed to be "tomato red" (found on the Clayart
glaze database)(and it is sometimes at cone 6, but if you fire at higher
temps it turns green. The colorant is red iron oxide. I would suggest that
you play with it and see what you get. When I first got started with the
glaze and fired at cone 8 or so, it was greener than green. It would break
red on the inside surfaces.
Just a thought.....
Good luck.
Joe Troncale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Lewing"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: Green glaze
> on 1/21/05 3:39 PM, Gene Arnold at mudduck@ADVI.NET wrote:
>
>> The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes
>> that
>> I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
>> glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas
>> or
>> where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
>> cone 6 ox.
>>
>> Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming?
> Of course you can get a glaze like that, Gene. Someone once did, so you
> can, too. Here would be some guidelines for you:
> You'll want to use copper as a colorant, rather than chrome or a stain,
> because you want to keep it really clear. Copper's a solution color, the
> others are suspension colors, and will opacify it to some degree. I'd
> keep
> the copper as low as possible, in the interest of durability, but you'll
> probably need at least 2% for a strong green. I'd try to keep it under
> 4%,
> though.
> You don't actually want it to be alkaline, you want it to be acidic. The
> more acidic it is, the greener it will be. The more alkaline, the more
> toward turquoise it will go. This means you want as much silica as you can
> get in it, which will also help with durability. For a cone 6 glaze,
> you'd
> probably want at least 3.5 molecular equivalents, 4 or more if you can
> manage it.
> Since you want it to pool, you'll want to keep the Si:Al ratio high,
> which
> means that, with your high silica, you'll want to keep the alumina low.
> You'd want to anyway, because if you get the alumina over about 3
> molecular
> equivalents, the green from copper starts to get less bright. This is a
> balancing act, though, because you also want alumina for durability.
> Choose the alkaline earths for fluxes rather than the alkalines. Calcium
> will probably be your best choice here. Magnesium is not really an active
> flux at that temperature; you want to avoid barium; zinc will mute the
> bright green. Strontium would be a good choice for a second flux oxide,
> maybe a tiny bit of lithium.
> Since you want to avoid the very active fluxes sodium and potassium,
> you'll
> need some boron to get it to melt and flow like you want.
>
> OK, so if I were going to design this glaze, the molecular formula might
> look something like this:
> CaO .6 SrO .2 LiO2 .05 KNaO .1 B2O3 .3 Al2O3 .25 SiO2 4.0
> I'd put that into a calculation program, and start building it with frit
> 3134 for the calcium and the boron, that way I could get all my Al2O3 from
> clay. Then I'd add some feldspar for the KNaO, some lithium and
> strontium
> carbonates for those oxides, fill out the alumina with EPK, and finish off
> with the rest of the silica. Then I'd add 3% copper carbonate.
> That's how I'd do it, but it's probably not how most people would. If you
> try this, let me know how it works. I could be way off. What do I know?
> Paul Lewing, Seattle
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
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Judi Buchanan on sat 22 jan 05
The glaze you are looking for is probably hiding right in your studio.
Do you have a clear glaze that fits your clay well? IMHO that is the
first glaze most potters should look for. Instead of trying recipe after
recipe titled "green", do color tests on your base glaze. I personally
prefer copper greens that are modified with either manganese or rutile
or iron or all of the above. Learn to do line blends, ala Ian Currie,
and make that one glaze your own.
It is better to know one glaze well than to waste hours trying to see if
someone else's glaze fits your special needs.
WARNING glaze testing is addictive.
Judi Buchanan,Flutter-by Pottery
I have tested about 15 or 20 green glazes from various places and still
have
not found the green I am trying for, even tried come concoctions of my
own.
The color I'm trying to get is similar to the old alkaline green glazes
that
I have seen on older pottery. I guess it would need to be a transparent
glaze. So that it would be lighter on the surface and dark in low areas
or
where it is thicker. I would like for it to be food safe also. I fire at
cone 6 ox.
Does a glaze like this even live on this planet??? Or am I dreaming????
If some one has a glaze like this that they would be willing to share I
would be most thankful!!!!!
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com
Cindy in SD on sat 22 jan 05
Dear Gene,
I'm not sure of the color you want. I use a dark leaf green glaze. Does
that sound right? It's clearish, as most glazes without an opacifier or
crystaline structure will be. It breaks nicely over texture. The recipe
is in my studio, but it's simply based on Tony Hansen's 5X5 glaze with
copper carbonate added. I'm thinking around 4%, but I haven't made it in
a while and can't remember for sure off the top of my head. If you want
a different shade or hue of green, you might experiment with adding
Mason Stains instead.
I know this is a lot of copper, but it's a very stable base glaze. I own
pieces with this glaze that have been exposed to continuous food use,
including spaghetti, and no change in color. No off taste in drinks. If
you want to know for sure, you'd have to test it. I haven't had a lot of
success in selling green things, so I haven't bothered with testing it.
20 EPK
20 Frit 3134
20 Wollastonite
20 Silica
20 Custer Spar
Off the top of my head--someone correct me if that's wrong.
Good luck with finding your green :)
Cindy in SD
bonnie staffel on sun 23 jan 05
I just had to jump in here with my approach to getting my beautiful green
decorating glaze. I use Albany slip and add a small percentage of COBALT.
No typo, yes cobalt. Seems that the iron in the Albany tempers the cobalt
to give me green which I use over an opaque white glaze. You might try it
on a white tile, but do not know if that will give you the green. I believe
my recipe is .5 or 1/2 of a percent of cobalt. If you put 1 percent cobalt
in the Albany you get a beautiful soft blue glaze over the White opaque
glaze. I like to use this with a brush to get brushing effects.
Regards,
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
Charter Member Potters Council
Alisa Liskin Clausen on mon 24 jan 05
I use Albany slip and add a small percentage of COBALT.
>No typo, yes cobalt. Seems that the iron in the Albany tempers the cobalt
>to give me green which I use over an opaque white glaze. You might try it
>on a white tile, but do not know if that will give you the green. I
believe
>my recipe is .5 or 1/2 of a percent of cobalt. If you put 1 percent cobalt
>in the Albany you get a beautiful soft blue glaze over the White opaque
>glaze. I like to use this with a brush to get brushing effects.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bonnie Staffel
>
Yes, yes Bonnie. Recently I have been making glaze experiments that have
20 to 65 percent of my local red clay in them. I am adjusting fluxes and
trying different types of flux, for different surfaces. Keeping the
addition of Cobalt carb. at 2%, I have used different fluxes, in different
porportions. The glazes where I used 20% Red Clay and with either Feldspar
or Wollastonite, produced mat blue grays. The glaze tests where I used
over 50% Red Clay and introduced Talc, produced brown glosses that break
bottle green. I am trying to work out some line blends from these results,
that will hopefully give me keys to color and surface direction.
Very interesting.
regards from Alisa in Denmark
Little tulips and daffodils, hide your heads again.
The mild winter teased them to grow up
and now, minus degrees and cold, cold.
Ssshhh, go back to sleep.
Judy Smith on sun 14 nov 10
I am looking for a cone 6/oxidation/transparent green glaze that will be =
=3D
a
medium green (like grass). All of my green glaze recipes are celadon,
blue-green, chartreuse, brownish green, or grayish green. Can someone
suggest what I should add to this clear glaze to try and get a medium =3D
green?
Should I just add a mason stain?
=3D20
Thanks,
Judy Smith
=3D20
Ron Roy's Cone 6 Oxidation Clear
=3D20
Whiting 12.5
EPK..Kaolin 19.5
Neph Syenite 13.0
Frit 3134 25.0
Silica 30.0
____
100.00
=3D20
Bonnie Hellman on sun 14 nov 10
Hi Judy,
Not to get too nit-picky, but a "medium green like grass" includes a pretty
wide range.
A number of years ago I went on a search for the green of "new grass" and
bought a variety of stains (some Mason, some Spectrum) until I finally foun=
d
something close, which (if I remember correctly, and I might be wrong) was
Victoria. There are about 4 different Victoria stains and one turned out to
be better than the others for the color I wanted although all could have
been satisfactory had I not found the perfect stain.
I am currently not very mobile, recovering from removal of the hardware
placed on a broken ankle (fibula) in early August and the studio is in a
separate building, so I can't check out exactly which stain worked for me.
IMHO a grass green of any sort (except dead grass ) will probably requir=
e
a commercial stain, but it is unlikely that they will be transparent or eve=
n
translucent. When I add most stains to clear glaze bases, I lose the
transparency unless the color is not intense and is very washed out.
Best,
Bonnie
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Judy Smith
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 8:08 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: green glaze
I am looking for a cone 6/oxidation/transparent green glaze that will be a
medium green (like grass). All of my green glaze recipes are celadon,
blue-green, chartreuse, brownish green, or grayish green. Can someone
suggest what I should add to this clear glaze to try and get a medium green=
?
Should I just add a mason stain?
Thanks,
Judy Smith
Ron Roy's Cone 6 Oxidation Clear
Whiting 12.5
EPK..Kaolin 19.5
Neph Syenite 13.0
Frit 3134 25.0
Silica 30.0
____
100.00
Michelle Hamilton on mon 15 nov 10
Hi Judy;
I like Mason's Victoria Green. Depending on the base, it pulls a bright =
=3D
grass=3D20
green to a softer earthier green. Very consistent and works well with mo=
=3D
st=3D20
bases EXCEPT those with Zinc.
Michelle
www.zaximo.com
Gwynneth Rixon on mon 15 nov 10
Hi=3D2C
I used 2.5% Copper Oxide in the Leach 1234 base (China Clay=3D2CWhiting=3D2=
CQua=3D
rtz=3D2C Potash Feldspar) to get a good grassy green. I don't know how th=
at=3D
would go in the base glaze that you are using=3D2C might be worth a try.
Gwynneth
www.gwynnetrhrixonceramics.co.uk
=3D
David Finkelnburg on mon 15 nov 10
Judy,
As I am sure many have suggested by now, try adding copper carbonate to
your base. Do a line blend starting with 1/4 or 1/2% by weight of the
carbonate up to 3%. Depending on how green is grass green to you, and how
thick you apply your glaze, you will find a translucent green that should
suit you. This will tend to produce a warmish (yellow) green on
iron-bearing clay bodies.
Good glazing!
Dave Finkelnburg
http://www.mattanddavesclays.com
-----------------------------
Sun, 14 Nov 2010, Judy Smith wrote:
I am looking for a cone 6/oxidation/transparent green glaze that will be
a medium green (like grass). All of my green glaze recipes are celadon,
blue-green, chartreuse, brownish green, or grayish green. Can someone
suggest what I should add to this clear glaze to try and get a medium =3D
green?
Des & Jan Howard on mon 15 nov 10
Judy
To get grass green, add 0.125% to 0.25% green chrome
oxide to the glaze you posted. Ball milling would be
advantageous.
Des
On 15/11/2010 2:08 AM, Judy Smith wrote:
> I am looking for a cone 6/oxidation/transparent green glaze that will be =
a
> medium green (like grass). All of my green glaze recipes are celadon,
> blue-green, chartreuse, brownish green, or grayish green. Can someone
> suggest what I should add to this clear glaze to try and get a medium gre=
en?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Bonnie Staffel on tue 16 nov 10
Hi all,
As an anecdote on green glazes, back in 1951 while attending classes at =3D
the
Toledo Museum of Art, many of us new to clay would scrape the spray =3D
booth
down to get a glaze for our early pots. I recall that I threw a large
bulbous pot, and in reading Leach's book, thought that I could get =3D
copper
red in the school's electric kiln if I used this glaze. Imagine my
disappointment when the pot came out a clear green. Harvey Littleton was =
=3D
our
instructor and he said, after I expressed my disappointment, that most =3D
of
the scrapings of the spray booth would give us a green glaze from the =3D
basic
glazes that we were using. I guess I just didn't get the connection with =
=3D
a
reduction firing to our class glazes that were from his book, where we =3D
used
his 1234 base as well. Remember that these were the early days of studio
ceramics. =3D20
Bonnie Staffel
Hi=3D3D2C
I used 2.5% Copper Oxide in the Leach 1234 base (China =3D
Clay=3D3D2CWhiting=3D3D2CQua=3D3D
rtz=3D3D2C Potash Feldspar) to get a good grassy green. I don't know how =
=3D
that=3D3D
would go in the base glaze that you are using=3D3D2C might be worth a =3D
try.
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
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