Richard Aerni on wed 30 oct 96
Hello everyone,
I'm going to be doing a little maintainance on my gas car kiln during the
next week or so. It's housed in a pole barn, set on a slab, and has
about two feet of clearance from the roof rafters and three feet of
clearance on the sides from the studs. I've replaced the wooden rafters
above it with angle iron because of fire worries, and that's been fine
over the years. What's been going on over the past nine years, though,
is that the wood elsewhere has been drying out due to the radiant heat
from the kiln. I'd like to shield the most exposed beams with a heat
resistant drywall-like sheet. I've been calling around but no one seems
to have any "perfect" product. The best answer I've gotten so far is to
use wonderboard, the concrete/mesh product that is often used to underlay
ceramic tile. I was hoping that there would be a product available that
would function much like asbestos board, but haven't had any success.
Has anyone else had this problem and solved it successfully? If so, how,
and using what?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Richard Aerni Bloomfield, NY
kevin_hulmes@uk.ibm.com on fri 1 nov 96
Hi Richard,
I would use one of either....
Plasterboard (Gypsum board .... or whatever it's called in the US). It
consists of a sheet of plaster coated with paper, and is cheap. Score the
surface with a sharp knife and break it into the sizes you need. Nail it
to the wood with the galvanised nails designed for the purpose. The
standard 3/8inch sheet will probably do the job, but I'd go for the
next thickness up (5/8 or 3/4inch?). You can also get foil backed sheets,
but I think that's overkill.
Calcium Silicate board. There are at least two grades of this material in
the UK, and several thicknesses. There is a hard grade that has similar
physical properties to hard asbestos sheets. It is expensive, and may
need drilling/screwing (I haven't tried nailing, but I suspect it might
split.) You can use the offcuts as drying batts, or for wedging on if
they're big enough. Unlike plaster, it doesn't cause spitting if bits get
into the clay.
For ease of use, price and effectiveness, I'd go with the plasterboard.
Fire regulations in the UK dictate its use as a fire/heat retardent in
a number of situations. I even had to clad a rolled steel joist with it.
Apparently this delays the softening and collapsing of the joist in a
fire, which would cause the upper floor to collapse into it.
Good luck!
*--------------------------------------------------
* INTERNET: kevin_hulmes@uk.ibm.com
* Phone/Fax/Msgs (0)1926 887003 (UK)
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William Brouillard on fri 1 nov 96
Richard,
The sample of wonder board that I have in my studio
looks and feels just like the old style A-board. You can also
mount it on the wall with spacers that seperate it from the wall
an inch or two. That way it acts as a shield but does not conduct
heat to the wall. I have seen this kind of a system used on
ceilings and walls.
--
william brouillard
1011 literary road
cleveland,oh.44113
ch151@cleveland.freenet.edu
LINDA BLOSSOM on sat 2 nov 96
Dear Richard,
Is it too expensive to consider thin sheet metal like you would a wood
stove? There are fasteners that do not transmit the heat through nails and
screws that are used to attach the sheet metal.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
blossom@lightlink.com
http://www.artscape.com
607-539-7912
JJHerb@aol.com on sat 2 nov 96
For Richard: If the problem is in fact radiant heat, reflective metal
insulation could be effective. There are radiant heat barrier materials for
sale, more often in Texas than New York, for home use. If you don't get it
too hot, foil faced paper is pretty good.
Joseph Herbert
JJHerb@aol.com
Wendy Hampton on sat 2 nov 96
Richard,
I don't know the technical name but I was told to use fire resistant
sheetrock. Lumber yards have it in various degree ratings. Thats what I
plan to use when we get our pole building done. Call your local lumber yard
and ask them about it. If you can't find anything let me know and I'll find
out for you.
Wendy from Bainbridge Island WA
Janet H Walker on sat 2 nov 96
I talked with a guy in the hardware store a couple of months
ago about this problem. Turned out he had been in the fire
department in an earlier life and he was very informative.
(Now, if I can just remember what he told me!!) So if you
havent' talked to a friendly local firefighter, see if you
can find one.
One main piece of insight was that each phase/material change
brought about a substantial drop in heat transmission (maybe
on the order of 300F). So you can put a sheet of metal, an
inch of air, and another sheet of metal and you have three
changes already. Or a piece of sheet metal with a slab of
drywall behind it. There is a kind of drywall that is rated
as fire retardant but he didn't seem to think it would be
worth the extra cost (which was pretty nominal anyhow.)
So think about combinations and ask the retired firefighters
at the hardware store or the local pottery club!!
Regards,
Jan Walker
Frank A. Pishkur on sat 2 nov 96
On Wed, 30 Oct 1996, Richard Aerni wrote:
....is that the wood elsewhere has been drying out due to the radiant heat
> from the kiln. I'd like to shield the most exposed beams with a heat
> resistant drywall-like sheet. I've been calling around but no one seems
> to have any "perfect" product. The best answer I've gotten so far is to
> use wonderboard, the concrete/mesh product that is often used to underlay
> ceramic tile.
Richard, I wouldn't reccomend
Wonderboard, (Utilicrete (tm) or Durock (tm)) These products are awfully
water absorbant themselves and would probably just continue to suck the
moisture out of your studs. (unless you perhaps used a layer of plastic
between the studs and the concrete board)
Frank A. Pishkur knarf@adsnet.com
Michigan City, IN
.....what a beach.
ClayCoyote@aol.com on sat 2 nov 96
Richard-
Take a look at a product called Ultraboard. Much like asbestos board. about
1/4 ' thick. some kind of dense ceramic used as a tile backer where there
isn't thickness for wonderboard. Call 1-800 233 3155 for dealer, info and
maybe sample.
Tom Wirt
Paul Monaghan on sun 3 nov 96
Richard Aerni wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm going to be doing a little maintainance on my gas car kiln during the
> next week or so. It's housed in a pole barn, set on a slab, and has
> about two feet of clearance from the roof rafters and three feet of
> clearance on the sides from the studs. I've replaced the wooden rafters
> above it with angle iron because of fire worries, and that's been fine
> over the years. What's been going on over the past nine years, though,
> is that the wood elsewhere has been drying out due to the radiant heat
> from the kiln. I'd like to shield the most exposed beams with a heat
> resistant drywall-like sheet. I've been calling around but no one seems
> to have any "perfect" product. The best answer I've gotten so far is to
> use wonderboard, the concrete/mesh product that is often used to underlay
> ceramic tile. I was hoping that there would be a product available that
> would function much like asbestos board, but haven't had any success.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and solved it successfully? If so, how,
> and using what?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help,
>
> Richard Aerni Bloomfield, NY
Richard,
try any store selling woodburning stoves. There is a fiber board
something like Thermax that is used to protect walls behind the stove.
Sometimes it has an aluminum coating to reflect IR and allows the stove
to be w/in 1' of the wall or less and still meet code.
Paul
paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions
www.web2u.com The 'COOLEST' Site on the WEB
Richard mahaffey on sun 3 nov 96
Dear Richard,
Here in Tacoma the fire marshall likes two layers of 5/8" type X wall
board. He specified that both layers be taped to act as a 60 minute fire
block. I have also used a sheet of aluminum that was set with 1" space
from the floor and with about 2" of space off the wall using pipe as a
spacer. By having a space at the bottom and top it acts like a chimney
bringing cool air in at the bottom and letting the warmer air out at the
top.
I think I would like two spacers of aluminum, with an air space between
the two, in your situation. (Aluminum is relatively cheap here at Boeing
Surplus, even titanium is available for not too much $, but that does not
help you)
No matter what I used I would have an air space at the bottom and top to
promote cooling air circualtion.
Hope this helps
Rick Mahaffey, Tacoma Community College, Tacoma,Washington,USA 98466
peet robison on mon 4 nov 96
Richard;
Try using corrugated tin roofing. Leave a little space between the wood and
the metal. I forgot to put a piece in between my color glass furnace and an
electrical conduit recently, what a mess! The wires fused together!
>Has anyone else had this problem and solved it successfully? If so, how,
and using what?<
Peet , blowing glass in RAINY Santa Fe
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