Jeanean Slamen on thu 2 jan 97
I'm posting these questions through the list to Randy, potter@cancon.net,
regarding his 12/29 post about Randy Broadnax's horsehair/ferric chloride
; two tries posting him directly have been returned as "no user known":
Bryan, hope you aren't too inundated with requests for info to answer:
I've seen and admired Randy Broadnax's terra sig/horsehair pots. I'm very
interested in the info about ferric chloride. We have done some silver
nitrate fuming in our backyard raku firings, so I'm not unfamiliar with
the spraying idea. Please give me a little more background on how the
iron is used to color the pots... Are they fired plain (no surface
color, just terra sig)?
We've never used TS, but since we bisque raku pieces before firing, is an
08-06 bisque done for the TS forms before being fired?
What is the firing procedure? How do you know when to pull the pieces?
What do you do upon pulling them out of the kiln?
Thanking you for any input you have time to give ---
Jeanean and David Slamen
Missouri City (Houston), Texas
jslamen@wl.net
Dan Finch on tue 28 jul 98
Cheryl,
I have tried enough of the horse hair to develope a techniaue that works
for me and also be dangerous. So here she goes, and good luck.
Here is my technique.
Use a light clay body, this helps
In the leather hard stage I spray with a white terra-sigillata slip.
Burnish the sigillata by using panty hose. Never touch the surface except
with a soft cloth or panty hose. There are many other techniques for
burnishing and to develope a shiney surface, this is only one.
Bisque fire to about 1700 F. You can experiment as to how high you can
fire without burning the shiney surface off. If the shine is gone, then
you have fired to high.
After bisque. I place a few pots on shelves in the top of an electric kiln
and fire quickly up to about 1500. (this can by accomplished at the end of
the bisque firing as the kiln cools down - a very dull red) I then remove
one with prongs and place single or multiple strands of horse hair, (any
course hair will do) on the pot. If the pot is still to hot then the hair
will vaporize and not much effect. As the pot cools just a little the
hair will burn into the surface. By holding the pot at different angles
the residual smoke will decorate the surface at different angles. As the
pots cools more, the hair will not totally burn and the process is over.
You are finished at this point or you may put a finish coat of wax or
coating of your choice.
happy potting,
dan
http://www.danfinch.com
PS, Just for fun and effect, try copper wire (very thin) or other
matherials. Maybe some very small cord soaked in a copper solution. There
is no end to the fun that can be had. Also, please e-mail to let me know
your results.
----------
> From: Cheryl Brown
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: horsehair raku
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 1:11 PM
>
> Could someone email me privately regarding the how to's of horsehair
raku
> or point me to a good net site. I tried it yesterday but need more info
> (obviously from my results). I know this has been covered but I couldn't
> seem to access the info from the archives.
>
> TIA
> Cheryl Brown
Cheryl Brown on tue 28 jul 98
Could someone email me privately regarding the how to's of horsehair raku
or point me to a good net site. I tried it yesterday but need more info
(obviously from my results). I know this has been covered but I couldn't
seem to access the info from the archives.
TIA
Cheryl Brown
Bruce Girrell on tue 28 jul 98
Please don't have this discussion privately.
There are others of us who would like to have some hints on this technique,
also
Bruce Girrell
Microline Technology Corp.
869 Robinwood Ct.
Traverse City, MI 49686
(616) 935-1585 (Voice)
(616) 922-5099 (FAX)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
> Of Cheryl Brown
> Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 1:11 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: horsehair raku
>
>
> Could someone email me privately regarding the how to's of horsehair raku
> or point me to a good net site. I tried it yesterday but need more info
> (obviously from my results). I know this has been covered but I couldn't
> seem to access the info from the archives.
>
> TIA
> Cheryl Brown
>
Wendy Hampton on wed 29 jul 98
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I heat the piece to about 1300 deg. F. I have gone as low as 1100 deg but
1300 seems to hold the heat longer. I pull the piece out and place it on a
soft firebrick. Using very good gloves, I take individual horse hairs (coarse
ones from the mane and tail) and press them onto the piece. You can also hold
both ends and press the hair to the piece and that works also. You need the
slight pressure to be able to get the dark carbon markings. Wait till the
piece is completely cool and take a soft brush and brush off the hairs left on
the piece. Most people use a wax (Johnsons floor wax, ceramic wax, melted
paraffin, etc) to cover the piece to keep it from smearing. I have found that
if I handle them gingerly that I don't have any problems. I use the horsehair
on pieces with terra sig and without terra sig. The ones with TS seem to have
more carbon spreading from the hair. I don't know why. It doesn't look as
clean to me.
If you have any questions please let me know.
Wendy from Bainbridge Island WA
Drew Montgomery on wed 29 jul 98
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Cheryl,
Horsehair "raku" is best over a pot that has had terra sig applied and
burnished, although this is not necessary. The pots that you have already
done can be refired as the horsehair coloring will burn off when the pots are
refired. It is only necessary to fire the pots to 10000 F, or so. When the
pots have reached temperature, remove from the kiln and place on a warm
shelf. Carefully drape the horsehair on the pot,. As the hair begins to burn
it will shrivel and produce a squiggley line. You can also use sawdust or
anything that will burn and leave a carbon pattern. Let the pot cool, but
while it is still warm, apply Butchers wax to protect the coloring and add
depth.
Drew
Cheryl Brown wrote:
> Could someone email me privately regarding the how to's of horsehair raku
> or point me to a good net site. I tried it yesterday but need more info
> (obviously from my results). I know this has been covered but I couldn't
> seem to access the info from the archives.
>
> TIA
> Cheryl Brown
Carole Steele on sat 12 jun 99
I am ready to do the horsehair raku thing.
I have seen it demonstrated and more or
less know how to do it. I have horses and
have collected tail hair. I have terre -sig
bisque fired pots ready to go. I found the
pre-val sprayers at Home Depot. Then I
bopped on over to my local Radio Shack
and asked for Ferric Oxide/etching
solution/circuit board cleaner stuff and
the salesperson just stared at me.....
didn't know what I was talking about.
She showed me some electronic cleaner
in aerosol form and stated that is all they
carry. Can anyone out there in clayland
give me a specific product or brand name
to ask for?
Carole in Louisiana
csteele=40centuryinter.net
DAN JOHNSTON on sun 13 jun 99
Carol:
Radio Shack does carry ferric chloride under the Radio Shack label : PCB
Etchant Solution. It is listed as Cat. No. 276-1535A. It sounds to me
like you talked to the wrong salesperson. They might have to order it if it
is not in stock. Good luck.
Dan
LynneBerma@AOL.COM on wed 17 may 00
Kelly,
Here's my horsehair info which I received from Clayart
Lynne in center city Philadelphia
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Horsehair is applied to the pot directly from the fire while the pot is white
hot.
Take the pot out of the wood fire or raku kiln, wait maybe two minutes and
then put the horsehair on the pot in any design you like. If the lines are
"mushy" wait a few seconds longer and put more hair on. If your lines are
"weak" you've waited too long.
This is a great technique for micaceous clay pots. It creates a beautiful
look!.
The main problem is acquiring the horsehair. Most horse owners consider the
mane and tail of their horses as sacred, so you have to do a lot of begging,
groveling and scraping curry combs. For best results you really need the hair
from the tail. It's longer and thicker and makes more bold lines. And this is
the hair that has to be cut from the tail or mane and is therefore more
difficult to acquire. The finer hair from the curry combs is OK but is less
dramatic than the thicker hair.
Good Luck!
T. Edwards
Horsehair raku:
1. Find a horse for the hair.
2. Acquire Ferric Oxide (poisonous)
3. Get gloves, masque
4. Prepare a place to spray pot. Do not place pot on metal. Ferric Oxide
is a form of iron rust and will corrode any metal, so do not use your best
banding wheel. I usually place my hot pot on a brick.
5. Get a sprayer for Ferric Oxide. Mix F. Oxide with water
6. Cotton batting for smoking (you don't want your reduction material to
flame up since you will be working directly with the pot, but you want some
smoking.
7. You may terra sig your pot using any ts formula. This form of raku
looks great on a burnished terra sig'd pot
8. Take a bisque pot. Place in Raku Kiln and Heat. I don't know the part
icular temperature, or if it matters. I usually go by the atmosphere in the
kiln.
Probably 1500F. If you need to actually check temperature, place a clear
crackle pot in kiln. When glaze on crackle pot melts, your pot without
glaze will be ready.
9. Take pot from kiln with tongs.
10. Place pot on cotton batting.
11. Spray ferric oxide on pot.
12. Add strands of horsehair to hot pot. Horsehair will form webs or
squiggy lines.
13. Good luck. Be careful when spraying the ferric oxide.
14. I find it does not help to place your pot in a container to reduce. You
will lose the effect of the oranges and blue/browns of the ferric oxide. I
find that very little smoking is necessary.
15. Experiment and have fun.
Fran at Tin Barn Pottery/Manassas Clay, Manassas, Virginia
fnew@erols.com
Cindy Strnad on wed 17 may 00
>>>For best results you really need the hair
from the tail. It's longer and thicker and makes more bold lines. And this
is
the hair that has to be cut from the tail or mane and is therefore more
difficult to acquire. The finer hair from the curry combs is OK but is less
dramatic than the thicker hair.<<<
I can help you there. The "Claw, Antler and Hide Company" in Custer, SD,
sells horse hair, from the tails, and they have a web page--somewhere. I
don't have the address, but it would be worth doing a search if you can't
find your horsehair elsewhere.
Cindy Strnad
earthenv@gwtc.net
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
Anne Hunt on wed 17 may 00
Addendum to the above: @1200F is the best temp for applying the horsehair.
I pull my piece @1300, figuring that when I get my hands on the horsehair,
the pot will have cooled to 1200. Put on a "test" piece of horsehair to see
if it squiggles too much and goes too black (too hot).
Also, don't put on the hairs too closely together, unless you really
want larger black splotches from the carbonization.
luck,
anne & the cats, in sequim
Carole Fox on sat 22 dec 01
Yes, you can use people hair. I have used my daughter's long brown =
strands with success. But then you have to call it human hair raku and =
that sounds pretty gross, don't you think?
You can use stuff besides hair, too. My favorite is the dried starburst =
pattern of the Queen Annes Lace flower. Just push it into the side of =
the hot pot and you will get a neat little starburst pattern on your =
pot.
Say, does anybody know where horsehair raku originated? Customers ask , =
and I wonder if maybe some raku potter with long hair....nah..! But I am =
curious to know.
Carole Fox
Elkton, MD
cfox@dca.net
j e motzkin on wed 7 aug 02
Carole,
My friend, Jeff Margolin, from Berkeley, fires pots about
24"tall and sculptures up to about 4 feet using
horsehair. I think he does it in an electric kiln. I
imagine he does not pull the pieces from the kiln,
however.
Judy
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
Sally Guger on tue 30 may 06
Bruce,
I'll have access to a raku kiln starting mid-June. I have very little experience with the process- but I know the concept. For the horse hair raku- is the pot already glaze fired, then you reheat and pull it out at 1200 degrees? Or were raku glazes used on a bisqued pot and this is the glaze firing when this happens- doubtful since it's at 1200 degrees. Thanks. Sally
Bruce Girrell wrote:
Jeannean,
Skip the reduction can. Otherwise your whole pot will be black.
Heat the pot to about 650 deg C or 1200 deg F. Remove the pot to an
insulated support that allows you access to all sides of the pot. If at all
possible, protect the work area from breezes. Apply the horsehair as
desired. You will have a minute or so to do the work. If the pot is too hot
the hair will burn into blobs and make very dark marks. When the temperature
is right, the hair will sizzle and make squiggly dark lines. When the pot is
too cold the hair will not squiggle and will make straight lines. If the pot
is really too cold the hair won't do anything.
If you want to use other decorations that have their own shape and texture,
such as feathers, do it when the pot is cooler. Using your own hair will
also make marks, but our experience is that the horsehair makes marks that
we like better.
And, need I say it? Wear a quality respirator that fits you. The smoke isn't
good for you and refractory ceramic fiber and ferric chloride are
particularly dangerous. When pots break during decoration, they can send
little bits of hot clay flying in random directions. Wear eye protection.
That should get you started. Give that a whirl and see what new questions
you come up with.
Bruce Girrell
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisnosin, USA
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.
Jeannean Hibbitts on tue 30 may 06
I searched the archives and googled, but I'm still a little fuzzy on the
horsehair raku process. I understand that if I try to apply the horsehair
too quickly after taking the pot out of the raku kiln, the hair will just
vaporize, so I need to wait until just the right moment. Do I take the pot
out of the raku and dunk it in the reduction can for a few seconds, then
pull it out and apply the horsehair? Or do I skip the reduction bit? Or does
it matter, as long as the pot is still pretty hot?
I thought I might offer some of my own hair as an experiment, too, so I'm
wondering what other people have played with? Perhaps it's too fine to leave
any kind of a mark.
Thanks in advance for all your wisdom.
Jeannean in Astoria
..emerging from the shadowsof the lurkers' lair, on a gorgeous sunny
afternoon where the temperature is probably in the mid-60's and I watched
some kayakers on the Columbia River at lunchtime. One of those "If this is a
dream, please don't pinch me, I don't want to wake up" kind of days.....
Marcia Selsor on tue 30 may 06
>
> Dear Jeannean in Astoria,
Horse hair firings are usually cooler than a ^06 raku firing. I fire
to 1100-1200 F
on my pyrometer. Then I take is out of the kiln a apply the horse hair.
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Bruce Girrell on tue 30 may 06
Jeannean Hibbitts wrote:
> I searched the archives and googled, but I'm still a little fuzzy on the
> horsehair raku process.
Jeannean,
Skip the reduction can. Otherwise your whole pot will be black.
Heat the pot to about 650 deg C or 1200 deg F. Remove the pot to an
insulated support that allows you access to all sides of the pot. If at all
possible, protect the work area from breezes. Apply the horsehair as
desired. You will have a minute or so to do the work. If the pot is too hot
the hair will burn into blobs and make very dark marks. When the temperature
is right, the hair will sizzle and make squiggly dark lines. When the pot is
too cold the hair will not squiggle and will make straight lines. If the pot
is really too cold the hair won't do anything.
If you want to use other decorations that have their own shape and texture,
such as feathers, do it when the pot is cooler. Using your own hair will
also make marks, but our experience is that the horsehair makes marks that
we like better.
And, need I say it? Wear a quality respirator that fits you. The smoke isn't
good for you and refractory ceramic fiber and ferric chloride are
particularly dangerous. When pots break during decoration, they can send
little bits of hot clay flying in random directions. Wear eye protection.
That should get you started. Give that a whirl and see what new questions
you come up with.
Bruce Girrell
in - can you believe it? - 90 degree northern Michigan
still working on those pics from our last firing
Bruce Girrell on wed 31 may 06
>For the horse hair raku- is the pot already glaze fired, then you reheat
and pull >it out at 1200 degrees? Or were raku glazes used on a bisqued pot
and this is >the glaze firing when this happens
Even simpler than that. There is no glaze at all. The horsehair is applied
directly to the pot surface. The shine is obtained by burnishing the pot (or
applying terra sig and polishing) before the pot is bisqued. Keep the bisque
temperature low - like cone 010 - to retain the shine and to help minimize
breakage during application of the hair.
Horsehair could be applied to a glazed pot, if desired. But I would think
that glaze reduction effects and horsehair decoration are pretty much
mutually exclusive. I suppose that there might be some local effects in the
immediate vicinity of the hairs. Horsehair applied to a glazed surface will
remain on the surface of the glaze, except for where the glaze is crazed.
Horsehair applied directly to the pot becomes part of the pot. I would think
that you would increase your chance of breakage when reheating a glazed pot.
In general, while it might be an interesting exercise to try horsehair over
glaze, that's not the way that most people do it.
Bruce "but I'm not saying not to try it" Girrell
Marcia Selsor on wed 31 may 06
Dear Sally,
Horsehair doesn't use a glaze. The surface is usually burnished with
terra sigilatta. Bisque to ^09 and then fire up to around 1200F. in a
raku kiln.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On May 30, 2006, at 8:13 PM, Sally Guger wrote:
>
> I'll have access to a raku kiln starting mid-June. I have very
> little experience with the process- but I know the concept. For the
> horse hair raku- is the pot already glaze fired, then you reheat
> and pull it out at 1200 degrees? Or were raku glazes used on a
> bisqued pot and this is the glaze firing when this happens-
> doubtful since it's at 1200 degrees. Thanks. Sally
Allyson May on sun 18 mar 07
Hey Stephanie,
I do a lot of horsehair as well as naked raku and raku. I have some =
answers for you as well as a few little tips.
Color: Pots can be sprayed or painted with underglaze prior to firing =
for added color. Also colored slip or terra sig can be used. Regular =
raku glaze is questionable. You only need to heat the pot enough to =
burn the hair so most glazes won't be mature and the hair markings might =
be lost if you do reduction. Maybe someone else can speak to this. =
Color can also be achieved with ferric chloride. It can be painted on =
the pot prior to firing and sprayed on the pot after the horsehair is =
applied. Ferric chloride is VERY corrosive! It eats metal and you must =
wear an organic vapors respirator and protect your eyes and skin. It =
does give beautiful results.
Applying the hair: Yes, there is a time frame. If applied too soon the =
hair will burn rapidly and really smoke up the pot. If applied too late =
it just wont burn. Your going to have to play with this part depending =
on your pots. Thicker pieces hold heat longer and give you more time. =
Thin pieces you will have to work fast before they cool off. I take my =
pieces out and wait about 10-15 sec. before applying the hair. This =
gives the pot time to cool just a bit and I get a nice distinct line not =
all the black smudgy stuff. After the horsehair is on I then spray the =
ferric chloride. If you try this cover your banding wheel or whatever =
pedestal you are using with several layers of aluminum foil to protect =
it. Wear protection!
Wax: Trewax is the best I have found. I don't use a sealer of any =
kind. I don't like the way they make the surface look; kinda plastic =
like. Make sure that the pot is completely cool and has been well =
cleaned. Any carbon on the surface will be caught up in the wax and =
leave ugly smudges. Dirty raku gloves will leave ugly marks also.
Tips: Heat a soft brick in the kiln with your pieces. Take it out =
first and then set your piece on it for decoration. If you set the hot =
pieces on something cool then they very well may crack.
=20
Set pieces on a metal banding wheel for easier application of hair. If =
using ferric chloride cover the banding wheel with several layers of =
foil.
Use a Preval disposable sprayer for ferric chloride. They have no metal =
parts to be corroded and they produce a nice fine spray. Wear =
protection.
Drop paper into the pots after they are removed from the kiln to get a =
blackened interior.
Most of my horsehair are lidded vessels and I have a problem with them =
cracking if I place the lid on the pot while decorating with hair and =
ferric. Try setting the lid to the side of the pot if you have this =
problem.
Have the horse hair separated into strands before removing the pot from =
the kiln. Single strands or just a couple applied at a time are best. =
Big clumps of hair will not make a nice mark. Since more than one of =
you will be doing this have your friend hand you the hair a few strands =
at a time. Feathers are also very nice but you need to hold them in =
place with needle nose pliers.
Best tip of all: Have your instuctor contact me about doing a workshop! =
I do 2 and 3 day alternative firing workshops which cover naked raku, =
horsehair/ferric chloride, saggar and blackfire.
Hope all of this helps. Good luck.
Peace,
Allyson May
Stoney Creek Pottery
Bloomington, IN
AMay4@msn.com
Pat Southwood on wed 21 mar 07
Hi,
I had a go at horsehair firing for the first time last year when I took =
my students to an annual raku day at the workshop of fellow potter John =
Chipperfield, senior tutor at Central St. Martins. and a great bloke.
I was just playing, as I was there in a purely maternal capacity, =
having rakued myself silly as a student and sort of gone through it.
Pots emerged at 1000* - had to leave them to cool a bit or they just =
frazzled the horsehair.
What was interesting was that when Chipp water sprayed the raku pots, =
and inadvertantly caught mu horsehair pots in the spray, they blurred =
and softened in a rather pleasing way.
the idea of the softened horsehair with the addition of softened soya =
sauce sounds potentially well groovy.
I will try the soya sauce this year at raku day. - they will love the =
idea.
I think we British should try a solution of marmite.
- Yes, I'll give it a go. laters.
Pat S.
Gene Arnold on wed 21 mar 07
We do a lot of horse hair. In fact we did about 40 pieces this afternoon for
a show this week end.
Anything carbon based will work for making marks on the pottery. Edge Barnes
uses horsehair, seaweed, feathers and ferns. He makes some of the most
awesome pots you will ever see.
We primarily use horsehair but have used feathers and sometimes wheat grass
all with good results.
We have stopped using paste wax on our pots, to hard to apply and buff off.
We use a non yellowing spray polyurethane. Easier to apply and you don't
have to buff.
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Southwood"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: horsehair raku
Hi,
I had a go at horsehair firing for the first time last year when I took my
students to an annual raku day at the workshop of fellow potter John
Chipperfield, senior tutor at Central St. Martins. and a great bloke.
I was just playing, as I was there in a purely maternal capacity, having
rakued myself silly as a student and sort of gone through it.
Pots emerged at 1000* - had to leave them to cool a bit or they just
frazzled the horsehair.
What was interesting was that when Chipp water sprayed the raku pots, and
inadvertantly caught mu horsehair pots in the spray, they blurred and
softened in a rather pleasing way.
the idea of the softened horsehair with the addition of softened soya sauce
sounds potentially well groovy.
I will try the soya sauce this year at raku day. - they will love the idea.
I think we British should try a solution of marmite.
- Yes, I'll give it a go. laters.
Pat S.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Judy Rohrbaugh on thu 22 mar 07
Thanks for the tips on not chipping the pots.
I assume that for us it is primarily due to inexperience- aka the learning curve.
I have been using a raku clay from Laguna, I think it is #250. Sometimes a chunk
of clay will come off a pot during bisque or raku firing- I forget the term as I have
never encountered this before. Spalling? I have tested this clay at cone 6
and it works, making a light gold/yellow color, which I plan to experiment with someday.
And, yeah, I plan to try the soy sauce. (smile).
Judy Rohrbaugh
Fine Art Stoneware
Ohio, USA
Teri Lee on wed 21 nov 07
Someone told me that the color of the horsehair makes a difference in =
the raku process. I know that hair from mane produces better =
results..has anyone heard of differences from the color of the hair?
=20
Teri Lee
William & Susan Schran User on thu 22 nov 07
On 11/21/07 11:45 AM, "Teri Lee" wrote:
> Someone told me that the color of the horsehair makes a difference in the raku
> process. I know that hair from mane produces better results..has anyone heard
> of differences from the color of the hair?
It will all burn forming carbon and be black, no matter what the color of
the hair.
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Robert W. Anderson on thu 22 nov 07
Teril Lee,
Color makes no difference, however,
thickness does. Try tail (horse) hair.
Thicker lines and denser fumes.
Sprinkle a small amount sugar on
the pots shoulder after applying the hair.
Great smell...and nice black dots.
Catch ya later,
Bob Anderson
Antigo, Wis.
rwanaa@charter.net
======================
http://webpages.charter.net/rwapottery/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Teri Lee"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: Horsehair raku
Someone told me that the color of the horsehair
makes a difference in the raku process. I know
that hair from mane produces better results..has
anyone heard of differences from the color of the
hair?
Teri Lee
__________________________________________________
____________________________
Clayart members may send postings to:
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post
messages, or change your
subscription settings here:
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots2@visi.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.4/1145 -
Release Date: 11/22/2007 11:49 AM
Jeff Guin on thu 22 nov 07
Dear Teri,
As far as I'm aware, the color of the hair makes no difference. It all bur=
ns black, but I have found that hair from the tail works best for me as it =
is longer and more coarse.
Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving.
Jeff G.http://mudwerks.blogspot.comhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/>=
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:45:40 -0800> From: Teri.Lee@UCOP.EDU> Subject: H=
orsehair raku> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> > Someone told me that the col=
or of the horsehair makes a difference in the raku process. I know that hai=
r from mane produces better results..has anyone heard of differences from t=
he color of the hair?> > Teri Lee> > ______________________________________=
________________________________________> Clayart members may send postings=
to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org> > You may look at the archives for the list,=
post messages, or change your> subscription settings here: http://www.acer=
s.org/cic/clayart/> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reac=
hed at melpots2@visi.com
_________________________________________________________________
Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista=AE + Windows Live=99.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_C=
PC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007=
jean szostek on thu 22 nov 07
hi teri,
maybe im not a expert in this, buth horse hair is simply burn hair on a pot
and hair that burns carbonises
so i think that it can only by black
as hannah wood say cheers jean
www.szostekjean.be
----- Original Message -----
From: "Teri Lee"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 5:45 PM
Subject: Horsehair raku
Someone told me that the color of the horsehair makes a difference in the
raku process. I know that hair from mane produces better results..has anyone
heard of differences from the color of the hair?
Teri Lee
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1143 - Release Date: 21/11/2007
10:01
Gene Arnold on thu 22 nov 07
Teri
I've used every color horse hair around and not noticed any difference at
all.
It's the carbon from the hair burning that marks the pot. The more course
hair will give more bold lines and the thin hair will squiggle more. You can
see examples on our web site.
This has been by experience.
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Teri Lee"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 11:45 AM
Subject: Horsehair raku
Someone told me that the color of the horsehair makes a difference in the
raku process. I know that hair from mane produces better results..has anyone
heard of differences from the color of the hair?
Teri Lee
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
Chaeli Sullivan on fri 23 nov 07
Hey Thanks Angela
I appreciate the info. Have been wanting to try the horsehair technique but it wasn't til these past couple of days i thought to try it in an electric kiln.
Chae
Angela Davis wrote:
I have a good friend who does electric horsehair regularly.
He brings his bisque up to temperature and holds the lid up
till we pull the pieces.
We then apply the horsehair (tail hair is the best for dark marks)
and allow to cool down.
I don't think you would want to place them back in the kiln
afterwards. You know that if your not happy with the applied hair
decoration
you can refire the pot to temp and all the marks will disappear and you can
start over with a clean pot.
Even though it is called Horsehair Raku the only resemblance to the raku
technique is the pulling from the kiln at high temperatures and usually a
raku kiln is used.
Angela Davis
In Homosassa Fl
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Lynne and Bruce Girrell on fri 23 nov 07
Teri Lee wrote:
> Someone told me that the color of the horsehair makes a difference in the=
raku process.
=20
Believe it or not, it's true to some extent. But don't expect brown hairs t=
o give you brown markings.
=20
Lighter colored hairs tend to be thinner and, as a result, produce lighter =
lines. Really thin hairs, like human hair, produce only a faint gray at nor=
mal temperatures. Even among the dark hairs you'll find some that are thick=
er and some thinner. We use the thicker ones first (when the pot is hotter)=
and the thinner ones later.
=20
Bruce and Lynne Girrell
=20
_________________________________________________________________
Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista=AE + Windows Live=99.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_C=
PC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007=
Chaeli Sullivan on fri 23 nov 07
Hi y'all
Hope you had a happy thanksgiving.
While reading the horsehair raku posts, it occurred to me to wonder . . . .
Has anyone tried doing the horse hair in an electric kiln?
(Now i know this is a raku technique......) But after firing to glaze temperature, could one at the crucial temperature, turn the kiln back on - apply the horsehair -- turn kiln off, shut lid and hopefully get the same (or nearly the same) effects?
Has anyone tried to do this?
Chae
---------------------------------
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
Angela Davis on fri 23 nov 07
I have a good friend who does electric horsehair regularly.
He brings his bisque up to temperature and holds the lid up
till we pull the pieces.
We then apply the horsehair (tail hair is the best for dark marks)
and allow to cool down.
I don't think you would want to place them back in the kiln
afterwards. You know that if your not happy with the applied hair
decoration
you can refire the pot to temp and all the marks will disappear and you can
start over with a clean pot.
Even though it is called Horsehair Raku the only resemblance to the raku
technique is the pulling from the kiln at high temperatures and usually a
raku kiln is used.
Angela Davis
In Homosassa Fl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chaeli Sullivan"
To:
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Horsehair raku
> Hi y'all
> Hope you had a happy thanksgiving.
> While reading the horsehair raku posts, it occurred to me to wonder . . .
> .
> Has anyone tried doing the horse hair in an electric kiln?
> (Now i know this is a raku technique......) But after firing to glaze
> temperature, could one at the crucial temperature, turn the kiln back
> n - apply the horsehair -- turn kiln off, shut lid and hopefully get the
> same (or nearly the same) effects?
> Has anyone tried to do this?
> Chae
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.4/1147 - Release Date:
> 11/23/2007 9:19 AM
>
>
Carlee Weston on fri 23 nov 07
You run a real risk of getting burned as you reach down and into the electric kiln. Came close just trying to get pot out of kiln for a raku.
Be careful and dress in leathers. Turn electric off at the source.
Good luck
Carlee
-------------- Original message from Chaeli Sullivan : --------------
> Hi y'all
> Hope you had a happy thanksgiving.
> While reading the horsehair raku posts, it occurred to me to wonder . . . .
> Has anyone tried doing the horse hair in an electric kiln?
> (Now i know this is a raku technique......) But after firing to glaze
> temperature, could one at the crucial temperature, turn the kiln back on -
> apply the horsehair -- turn kiln off, shut lid and hopefully get the same (or
> nearly the same) effects?
> Has anyone tried to do this?
> Chae
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Angela Davis on sat 24 nov 07
Your welcome Chae, but remember you can get killed if you
contact the elements. Be sure to cut the breaker to the kiln before you
pull the pieces.
It will be obvious to you when you load your pots to just place them
on the top shelf because you will not be able to remove shelves to get
your pots below. They would be cooled down too much for Horsehair
by then anyway.
Have fun.
Angela Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chaeli Sullivan"
To:
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: Horsehair raku
> Hey Thanks Angela
> I appreciate the info. Have been wanting to try the horsehair technique
> but it wasn't til these past couple of days i thought to try it in an
> electric kiln.
> Chae
>
> Angela Davis wrote:
> I have a good friend who does electric horsehair regularly.
> He brings his bisque up to temperature and holds the lid up
> till we pull the pieces.
> We then apply the horsehair (tail hair is the best for dark marks)
> and allow to cool down.
> I don't think you would want to place them back in the kiln
> afterwards. You know that if your not happy with the applied hair
> decoration
> you can refire the pot to temp and all the marks will disappear and you
> can
> start over with a clean pot.
> Even though it is called Horsehair Raku the only resemblance to the raku
> technique is the pulling from the kiln at high temperatures and usually a
> raku kiln is used.
>
> Angela Davis
>
> In Homosassa Fl
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1149 - Release Date:
> 11/24/2007 10:06 AM
>
>
| |
|
