mel jacobson on wed 26 jun 96
hello to all of you... i have been off to my art camp for the month and am
far behind in clayart...
a request from several people...we are looking for an iron red, cone 10
reduction glaze.. we have a sample from a college in northern colorado and
it is a beauty. we are looking for that nice brick, iron red... not bright
copper red. if you can help...thanks a ton.
mel jacobson / minnesota.
June Perry on thu 27 jun 96
Here are a couple of tried and true Saturated Iron Red cone 10 reduction
glaze recipes. You can also fire these in oxidation.
Ohata Kaki
6.3 Talc
9.9 Bone ash
48.7 Kona F4 sodaspar
7.2 Whiting
6.3 EPK
21.6 Flint
Add: Red Iron Oxide 10.8%
#320 Shaner Red
9 Bone ash
3 Talc
19 Whiting
47 Custer Feldspar
22 EPK
Add: Red Iron Oxide 4%
#1140 Tomato Red
160 Kingman Feldspar
9 Bone Ash
20 Silica
29 Dolomite
10 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay
20 Red Iron Oxide
#1277 Iron Red
54 Kona F4 Sodaspar
29 Flint
8 Kaolin
8 Magnesium Carbonate
13 Bone Ash
8 Iron Oxide
These seem to do best in a light to medium reduction. Some can go more Iron
spotty if the reduction is too heavy.
Good luck!
June Perry
EMail: Gurushakti@aol.com
Elizabeth Fusaro on fri 28 jun 96
>a request from several people...we are looking for an iron red, cone 10
>reduction glaze.. we have a sample from a college in northern colorado and
>it is a beauty. we are looking for that nice brick, iron red... not bright
>copper red.
This is a beautiful deep brick red satiny glaze when fired to
cone 9-10.
Iron Red Plum ^10
Cornwall Stone 442
Dolomite 45
Zinc Oxide 10
Whiting 112
EPKaolin 136
Flint 275
________
1000
11.5% Red Iron Oxide
2% Bentonite
P.S. I used to use this over Standard 153 clay. Let me know
how you like it.
Beth in Tallahassee
Beth Fusaro
Sun & Moon Pottery
Tallahassee, FL
June Perry on sun 30 jun 96
Your recipe as given (shown below) does not add up to 1000. It adds up to
1020.
Is it supposed to add up to 1000? If so, one of more of your ingredients is
mistyped.
Iron Red Plum
Cornwall Stone 442
Dolomite 45
Zinc Oxide 10
Whiting 112
EPKaolin 136
Flint 275
________
1000
11.5% Red Iron Oxide
2% Bentonite
Regards,
June Perry
Elizabeth Lazzara Fusaro on tue 2 jul 96
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Your recipe as given (shown below) does not add up to 1000. It adds up to
> 1020.
> Is it supposed to add up to 1000? If so, one of more of your ingredients is
> mistyped.
>
> Iron Red Plum
>
>
> Cornwall Stone 442
> Dolomite 45
> Zinc Oxide 10
> Whiting 112
> EPKaolin 136
> Flint 275
> ________
> 1000
>
> 11.5% Red Iron Oxide
> 2% Bentonite
> Regards,
> June Perry
>
Sorry, the 1000 gms. included the 2% Bentonite. The numbers are
correct otherwise.
Beth
Hanne Bjorklund on sun 2 may 99
Re: Iron Reds.
Dear Andrea,
I am using a pure white, very fine grained porcelain' ous wide firing clay,
and the glaze base is an ultra clear cone 6 gloss, formulated my Mr Tony
himself. It is the best acquaintance I have ever made in my life with clay.
I have jut unloaded a mystery from the bottom of my kiln. I had a lovely
square platter with poured swirls of the iron glaze, a deep blue and a
bluish green. It was darn nice on the top, but I had missed four postage
stamps worth on an area of the bottom. So I brushed on a few layers of the
iron glaze to cover the bald spot and put it back in the kiln.
Well, the deep blue is now pale blue. The newly applied patch of iron glaze
is greenish, the parts where the iron overlapped the blue and showed a
nice mottled sinister looking blend, are now major black, and the iron
glaze itself, (the original brown glaze) on the underside of the platter,
is the most incredibly wonderful burning brick red.
I love it. And just so that I won't feel too confident, the platter now
shows a large diagonal crack, mid-side to mid-side. This is why pottery
never gets boring, and keeps you forever humble, and perhaps the crack is a
message to keep this pot, as a reminder of how wonderful the iron glaze can
be.
Anyway, here is the recipe, can't give you the formula, because Insight
keeps getting into tiff, and shuts itself down and I am too lazy to do the
conversion by brain-power, or maybe I have forgotten how to do it, and
don't want to know if this is so.
Woolastonite 20
Frit 4108 20 calls for 3134, but this is the closest NZ
equivalent.Medium Soft Borax Frit.)
Clay Ceram 20 this is a china / ball clay hybrid. Michael Banks
can explain the difference. ( Michael, Plllease!)
Silica 20 I use 350 mesh
Potash F'spar 20 200 mesh from Australia.
To this I add 9.3% R.I.O.
1.33% copper oxide
2.66% dark rutile.
HANNE
bjorklund@clear.net.nz
mel jacobson on sat 28 oct 06
just a few added notes about iron red.
from my experience.
what kind and quality iron you use matters.
there are many iron oxides out there...experiment
for color.\ remember, spanish iron can give a
yellow hue.
heavy reduction...(and many do not know how
much reduction they are getting...it is not
a blackened kiln.)
lite to moderate reduction is the key to bright
iron red. and of course, oxidize will give you
brightest red.
bone ash in my opinion is the key to iron red.
add the other two elements and it can
be almost as red as a good copper red...only
deeper and less flashy.
of course, without saying it...SLOW COOLING..FIRING
DOWN. IS IMPORTANT.
mel
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
Timothy Joko-Veltman on sat 28 oct 06
Thanks Mel.
At the moment, I'm not the one who controls the firing curve (though
that should change shortly). But I'll keep that in mind for the
future.
Tim
On 10/28/06, mel jacobson wrote:
> just a few added notes about iron red.
> from my experience.
>
> what kind and quality iron you use matters.
> there are many iron oxides out there...experiment
> for color.\ remember, spanish iron can give a
> yellow hue.
>
> heavy reduction...(and many do not know how
> much reduction they are getting...it is not
> a blackened kiln.)
> lite to moderate reduction is the key to bright
> iron red. and of course, oxidize will give you
> brightest red.
>
> bone ash in my opinion is the key to iron red.
> add the other two elements and it can
> be almost as red as a good copper red...only
> deeper and less flashy.
> of course, without saying it...SLOW COOLING..FIRING
> DOWN. IS IMPORTANT.
>
> mel
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
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