Frank Tucker on thu 11 apr 96
Hi Pete,
The address for ITC is Box 1726,Ponte Vedra,FL 32004 Tel 904-285-0200 Fax
904-273-1616.You will probably get Alice Dackovitch and she is very helpfull.
I have a can I am about to use in our wood kiln so I will let you know how
it goes.
Frank Tucker
Tuckers Pottery Supplies
Cone Art Kilns
mel jacobson on thu 24 apr 97
i am in the process of spraying all 8 of my kilns......have completed the
electric, put in new coils, cleaned and vacumed the inside and gave it a
good brushing. sprayed right over the coils, kept the coat even and
thin. as instructed. it fired much faster....but the new coils may have
helped some.
have put a coat on the flattop and base furniture and shelves. will
coat the shelves later.
will go to the farm and start cleaning the salt kiln...must scrape
off bokey parts, and scrungy areas.....will use a curry comb used for
horses......then will spray the entire inside and all shelves. we hope
that it will be a good coating.....and help reduce warping shelves.
will continue with the flattop stoneware and wood fired kiln.
will report success as we get it. will also spray the raku kiln.
i am very interested in spraying the grates for the wood kiln, feriz
and alice say that the grates will last a long time if sprayed.
i am using the itc 100 on everything. will of course use the special
metal spray for grates.. the fill product is wonderful....have used it on
several old shelves.
REMEMBER itc is not going to tell you what is in it......it is of course an
industrial secret....don't even guess.
the people at itc are really great.....trying hard to make this work
for potters.....seem to have a feel for our needs and want us to succeed.
alice has called me several times hoping that things are going well.
if i get a 10% saving in fuel (and i already expect more than that) i
will be thrilled. if i can solve the problem of warping grates in the
wood fire kiln i will be thrilled...and using the fill product has me very
playful.
as i posted several months ago, products like this are going to be the
wave of the future in kiln construction......and one other note.......if the
product really does reflect heat we are going to see a wonderful change in
our glazes.....they will look more like the old chinese glazes made in hard
brick kilns. we have not seen much of that since the dawn of soft brick.......
nils has done tests where he has saved as much as 25% savings in
propane......maybe 6 gallons a firing.
and have you all heard about his reduction fired electric
kiln.?..amazing.....coated coils of itc 100. he actually dips them in
itc.......and they keep flex. of course he is a rotten golfer, can't
chip, or putt.......but he does fairly good research. but to his credit he
has a wonderful, beautiful wife and she puts up with him. mel
jacobson/minnesota.
Bruce Lenore on fri 25 apr 97
this sounds great! Where is itc sold? thanx e-mail directly if you
want.. Bruce lenore.. stxnstnz@edgenet.net
mel jacobson on fri 25 apr 97
itc telephone, 904 285 0200 fax 904 273 1616
i do have to admit i was given an itc cap and pen ....mel
Liz Willoughby on sat 26 apr 97
For those Canadians who are interested in acquiring itc, Tony and Sheila
Clennell are the distributers. After all the positive information given
about this product, I have just ordered some from Tony. I've got a Bailey
with fiberfax and am going to spray the works. Liz
They can be reached at
Sheila and Tony Clennell
Gleason Brook Pottery
Box l0, RR#2,
Wiarton, Ontario
NOH 2TO
Canada
Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
E-mail clennell@bmts.com
Liz Willoughby
R.R. 1
Grafton, Ontario
K0K 2G0
e-mail lizwill@cyberion.ca
Malissa D on sun 27 apr 97
Liz Willoughby wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> For those Canadians who are interested in acquiring itc, Tony and Sheila
> Clennell are the distributers. After all the positive information given
> about this product, I have just ordered some from Tony. I've got a Bailey
> with fiberfax and am going to spray the works. Liz
>
> They can be reached at
>
> Sheila and Tony Clennell
> Gleason Brook Pottery
> Box l0, RR#2,
> Wiarton, Ontario
> NOH 2TO
> Canada
>
> Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
> Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
> E-mail clennell@bmts.com
>
> Liz Willoughby
> R.R. 1
> Grafton, Ontario
> K0K 2G0
> e-mail lizwill@cyberion.ca
To Liz or anyone who knows. I have two soft brick electric kilns and a
soft brick gas kiln. How does itc works with these. If this has
already been explained, sorry. I must have missed it. Please explain
again.
Thanks
Malissa in the most beautiful wildflower hill country of Texas
Zoey K von Borstel on mon 2 jun 97
>
Lots of warm (non)fuzzies about ITC lately. I understand what it does as
far as protecting ceramic fiber -and protecting pots and lungs from it-
and insulating the kiln (sounds great) but what is its purpose sprayed on
shelves? What is it made of? What does ITC stand for? What does it
cost?
Zoey
Louis Katz on tue 3 jun 97
Hi All,
O.K. I stick my neck out in favor of open communication, seeking truth,
STP,ITC and Marvel Mystery Oil.
There is no doubt that these products have some value (not sure of the
value of Marvel Mystery Oil, but the cans are entertaining), but no
matter what problem a magic bottle is supposed to cure, some people are
going to see a cure after using it.
I have no doubt that using a black coating on the inside of a kiln helps
keep the kiln walls cool, and even out the temperature inside the kiln to
some degree. I also suspect that the material does provide protection to
some degree against harsh atmospheres.
I was reading an ad in CM yesterday that quoted claims of 40% fuel
savings from ITC. The ad did not say that ITC saved that much fuel, only
that people claimed it did. This number,40%, seems very unrealistic, just
as claims of injecting water into your gas boosting your milage to 105
miles per gallon.
Yes I understand about black body radiation and how it is possible to
have frost on a car in 32.5 degree weather and that black body radiation
increase more rapidly than one might expect with temperature, but....
Just for the record, I can fire my Olsen on 2" of gas pressure going to
the burners in about 6 hours from red heat with an even kiln. When I turn
the burners up to 6" it is very difficult to have even heating and
consequently it takes me about 8 hours. Just turning th burners DOWN can
often save you time and money.
I am still hopefull that when I do get ITC that it will increase my
element life, provide a wear resistant coating, decrease my fuel and
electric consumption somewhat, and help hold some crumbling electric
kilns together. But for miracles I'll watch the sun go down, and the
waves roll into shore on a windy day.
Now I know that this is going to create a typewritten backlash of some
sort and if need be I'll eat crow, but not until it is placed before my
face.
Louis
Louis Katz
Texas A&M University Corpus Campus
lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu
http://www.tamucc.edu/~lkatz
Paula Rubin on tue 3 jun 97
I know this stuff can go on the shelves, but will it take the place
of kiln wash and have the benifits of not flaking?
Do you do both sides of the shelves or one?
Liz Willoughby on wed 4 jun 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi All,
>O.K. I stick my neck out in favor of open communication, seeking truth,
>STP,ITC and Marvel Mystery Oil.
>
>There is no doubt that these products have some value (not sure of the
>value of Marvel Mystery Oil, but the cans are entertaining), but no
>matter what problem a magic bottle is supposed to cure, some people are
>going to see a cure after using it.
>
>I have no doubt that using a black coating on the inside of a kiln helps
>keep the kiln walls cool, and even out the temperature inside the kiln to
>some degree. I also suspect that the material does provide protection to
>some degree against harsh atmospheres.
>
>I was reading an ad in CM yesterday that quoted claims of 40% fuel
>savings from ITC. The ad did not say that ITC saved that much fuel, only
>that people claimed it did. This number,40%, seems very unrealistic, just
>as claims of injecting water into your gas boosting your milage to 105
>miles per gallon.
>
>Yes I understand about black body radiation and how it is possible to
>have frost on a car in 32.5 degree weather and that black body radiation
>increase more rapidly than one might expect with temperature, but....
>
>Just for the record, I can fire my Olsen on 2" of gas pressure going to
>the burners in about 6 hours from red heat with an even kiln. When I turn
>the burners up to 6" it is very difficult to have even heating and
>consequently it takes me about 8 hours. Just turning th burners DOWN can
>often save you time and money.
>
>I am still hopefull that when I do get ITC that it will increase my
>element life, provide a wear resistant coating, decrease my fuel and
>electric consumption somewhat, and help hold some crumbling electric
>kilns together. But for miracles I'll watch the sun go down, and the
>waves roll into shore on a windy day.
>
>Now I know that this is going to create a typewritten backlash of some
>sort and if need be I'll eat crow, but not until it is placed before my
>face.
>
>Louis
>
>Louis Katz
>Texas A&M University Corpus Campus
>lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu
>http://www.tamucc.edu/~lkatz
O.K. Louis, I'm a bit of a sceptic myself, but I just had my 2nd firing
with the ITC coating, and yes my gauge did confirm that indeed I used half
the amount of gas, compared to firing without the ITC coating. Try it and
see. Have you ever eaten crow? I've got a couple that come to my feeder
and have developed a taste for sunflower seeds, they would be really tasty.
Cheers, Liz
Liz Willoughby
R.R. 1
Grafton, Ontario
K0K 2G0
e-mail lizwill@cyberion.ca
Sheila Clennell on thu 5 jun 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi All,
>O.K. I stick my neck out in favor of open communication, seeking truth,
>STP,ITC and Marvel Mystery Oil.
>
>Louis
>
>Louis Katz
>Texas A&M University Corpus Campus
>lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu
>http://www.tamucc.edu/~lkatz
Dear Louis: Why are all the positive testimonials about ITC compared to
snake oil and Marvel Mystery Oil and STP. By the way, I kept my old 56
Chevy on the road for alot of miles with cans of STP.
As for the ITC. We have a small 20 cubic foot Bailey kiln that we had
fired for 560 times using this schedule. Candle over night with burners at
about 1", red heat in morning at 8 o'clock, turn up to 3", put on the
coffee, have breakfast
in workshop at 9, l0.30 6" body reduction - fire in reduction till 5 pm.
This seemed like a reasonable Cone 10 firing schedule since it fitted into
a civilized working day.
Sprayed the kiln with ITC 100. Went through my normal ritual only to check
the cones at noon to seem Cone 9 flat. We now soak the kiln for about 1hour
at 9-10 and finish the firing at about 3.We are purposely slowing down the
firing . The glazes have a better melt and we're saving money.
I was playing trivia in the local bar the other night and one of the
questions was what non-renewable resource will we run out of in 45 years?
If you guessed crude oil you got 1000 points. Even if the ITC saved you
10% don't you think it would be worth it? Saving energy is every potters
responsibility. That brings up many questions- like how come you fire in a
reduction atmosphere with excess fuel O wise one. I plead guilty! I've even
have a lawnmower.
Best of luck with the ITC and the crow. I haven't got a recipe for either
of them.
Cheers,
Tony
Sheila and Tony Clennell
Gleason Brook Pottery
Box l0, RR#2,
Wiarton, Ontario
NOH 2TO
Canada
Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
E-mail clennell@bmts.com
Craig Fent on wed 20 aug 97
I know there has been some discussion about ITC products, but I have lost the
info about it. Can someone please give me an address where I can write to
and get some information on this product. It sounds to good to be true.
We have a old salt kiln that is pretty shot and was wondering if this stuff
could bring it back to life.
Thanks
Craig Fent
craigfent@aol.com
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on wed 20 aug 97
ITC
P.O. Box 1726
Ponte Vedra, FL 32004
904 285 0200
KDrescherg on wed 10 sep 97
I am about to use ITC on an old kiln that has not been fired in years. The
kiln has been abused though. It was fired at one time hot enough to where
the burners were able to melt the bricks.Nice flame pattern and melted
brick surface. My plan is to scrape off the melted portions of the
bricks(soft bricks) and then treat the interior surface of the kiln with
ITC 200 then ITC 100. My questions are: is this a good plan? Will it work.
How can I tell the temprature rating of unknown soft bricks. Can ITC raise
the effective melting temprature of the soft bricks?
C. Greenman
Kdrescherg@aol.com
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on thu 11 sep 97
Call 904-285-0200 for answers to your questions.
Clennell on thu 11 sep 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am about to use ITC on an old kiln that has not been fired in years. The
>kiln has been abused though. It was fired at one time hot enough to where
>the burners were able to melt the bricks.Nice flame pattern and melted
>brick surface. My plan is to scrape off the melted portions of the
>bricks(soft bricks) and then treat the interior surface of the kiln with
>ITC 200 then ITC 100. My questions are: is this a good plan? Will it work.
>How can I tell the temprature rating of unknown soft bricks. Can ITC raise
>the effective melting temprature of the soft bricks?
>
>C. Greenman
>Kdrescherg@aol.com
Hey it sounds like a plan. Act like a dentist and take away the decay,
spray with ITC 100 and patch with 200. I also added bits of insulating
brick to the 200 patch job to make it go further because I had some big
holes. Then let it dry over night and spray again with 100 over your patch
job.The 200 will harden like a hard brick so I don't think you need to
worry about melting
unless these are really low temperature bricks.
Good luck with the plan.
Cheers,
Tony
Sheila and Tony Clennell
Gleason Brook Pottery
Box l0, RR#2,
Wiarton, Ontario
NOH 2TO
Canada
Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
E-mail clennell@bmts.com
Nils Lou on fri 12 sep 97
In your application of ITC coatings you have it reversed. Before
application clean the old area, spray with water(lightly) to moisten the
bricks and spray on ITC100HT FIRST. Then apply the patching coating,
ITC200EZ. Brush or spray the 100HT over the 200EZ patch. I would probably
fire the 100 then apply the 200 patch, fire and apply the final 100 over
the patch. And yes, the ITC coating will raise the temperature specs on
the soft brick. If you have any 100 left spray it on your shelves. NL
On Wed, 10 Sep 1997, KDrescherg wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am about to use ITC on an old kiln that has not been fired in years. The
> kiln has been abused though. It was fired at one time hot enough to where
> the burners were able to melt the bricks.Nice flame pattern and melted
> brick surface. My plan is to scrape off the melted portions of the
> bricks(soft bricks) and then treat the interior surface of the kiln with
> ITC 200 then ITC 100. My questions are: is this a good plan? Will it work.
> How can I tell the temprature rating of unknown soft bricks. Can ITC raise
> the effective melting temprature of the soft bricks?
>
> C. Greenman
> Kdrescherg@aol.com
>
James Henry Gorman on fri 12 sep 97
I called 904-285-0200 ! 2 times
both times their service answered the phone!!!
could not give me any information at all, because they were just their
telephone
service !! I called at 1 and at 2 o'clock!!
if anybody has a small amount they would like to sell me because I'm
going to take it to the ceramic engineers lab on campus and corning's
ceramics
lab and them run some test. E-mail direct please!
Jim gorman
Gormo1@AOL
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on fri 19 sep 97
I talked with the deservedly celebrated, patient "Alice" at ITC
yesterday and am enthused about the prospect of a salt kiln sprayed with
this refractory material. If you're still wondering after all the
testimonials from some of our most reliable, respected artists, read
the Nils Lou article in this month's Clay Times (the one with Rick
Berman's to-die-for salku pot on the cover...ahhhhhh!). Most
definitive. Potters are such a generous, bright group!
Joyce
In the Mojave pleased as the dickens to have a check on the way for Nils
Lou's October kiln-building workshop......pleased at the concept of
"observing" the process, that is, as #1 support person learns. I,
personally, place "kiln building" right up there with hammering nails
flat on pallets. I've done it, would gladly do it again for the same
results, but it's not nice to squish the poor brain around on its
"wrong" side.
Joyce Lee on fri 22 may 98
We're for sure going to apply the ITC refractory material to our kilns
this weekend barring heavy winds. I have info from the archives and
from Alice. We have Alice's phone number. We have the equipment needed.
Any tidbits about unexpected problems gleaned by Clayarters when they
did their own kilns? Thank you for your help as always.
Joyce
In the Mojave
LOWELL BAKER on sat 23 may 98
I like the stuff but don't let it get on your eye glasses. It will
not come off....ever.
W. Lowell Baker
Jennifer Boyer on sat 23 may 98
Cover yourself.....head covering, GOGGLES, respirator, long sleeves. It
gets everywhere. Stir, stir, stir. Don't worry about buckets getting
gunked up. The stuff washes off pretty well, even if it has dried on. If
you're spraying shelves, get the old kiln wash off first... Have fun!
Jennifer
Joyce Lee wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> We're for sure going to apply the ITC refractory material to our kilns
>
> this weekend barring heavy winds. I have info from the archives and
> from Alice. We have Alice's phone number. We have the equipment
> needed.
> Any tidbits about unexpected problems gleaned by Clayarters when they
> did their own kilns? Thank you for your help as always.
>
> Joyce
> In the Mojave
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jboyer@plainfield.bypass.com
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Joyce Lee on sun 24 may 98
Thanks for all the great suggestions about details of applying ITC.
Have applied it after rereading my ITC folder of Clayart messages,
calling Alice once again, and getting your great messages. I am
impressed once more at the kindness of Clayarters who take the time to
help us all. So far it looks good...a few thinner spots...not enough on
the bottom of the electric kiln...a couple of missed spots on the fiber
of the gas kiln. We're going to apply 296a after firing twice and hope
it will cover anything missed. I'm the kind of potter (and person) who
has to do everything (well, almost everything) six times to get it
right. Only have two kilns, both of which are precious to me, so Jim
(#1 Support Person) did the spraying. Said he'd never had so much
supervision on a job. (Not sure it was said too kindly. He loves me but
his patience has its limits.) When I tried spraying, I sprayed my feet
first and my old studio-designated Berkinstocks. I thought I'd be stuck
with the feet for awhile especially since I wouldn't leave the place of
action and go clean them off immediately, but they showered just fine.
Jim also says that pottery for a hobby is way beyond all-consuming, that
he's happy I didn't attempt it before retiring for we'd have had no
life. I say, "This IS life." Think he agrees. Besides, he's the one
who wanted me to retire AND stay occupied. Thanks again especially to my
bud Dannon who gives me constant assistance.
Joyce
Happy In The Mojave and wishing Valice would call so I could meet her.
Her Rock Art group has a hefty schedule for visiting the petroglyphs out
on the ranges plus great speakers. May go lurk. There are hundreds of
them taking over the town.
Don MacDonald on fri 31 jul 98
What exactly is this substance? I keep seeing it advertised, and notice
comments about its use in fibre kilns, etc. and wonder if it would be
the right thing to spray, or paint on the inside of an electric kiln lid
that keeps dropping bits of brick (and these are brand new bricks) on to
ware as it is firing. If not this stuff, does anyone have any other
ideas to seal the bricks, hopefully something that won't produce
horrible fumes?
June MacDonald
gambaru on sat 1 aug 98
I do not know what ITC is made from. But I do know that it works. One year
ago I patched and sprayed itc products on an older large (38 "d) kiln lid.
About 85 firings later it is still in really good shape. Nothing falling,
spitting or dropping onto pots. Did not notice any smell other than usual
clay / wax smells from kiln. A bargain in my opinion when compared to the
cost of a new lid. I have more that enough product left to do it again
one pint containers). MB
-----Original Message-----
From: Don MacDonald
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 4:04 PM
Subject: itc
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What exactly is this substance? I keep seeing it advertised, and notice
>comments about its use in fibre kilns, etc. and wonder if it would be
>the right thing to spray, or paint on the inside of an electric kiln lid
>that keeps dropping bits of brick (and these are brand new bricks) on to
>ware as it is firing. If not this stuff, does anyone have any other
>ideas to seal the bricks, hopefully something that won't produce
>horrible fumes?
>
>June MacDonald
>
Frank Gaydos on thu 29 oct 98
To anyone familiar with ITC. My question is: I see by the sample I have
of ITC it looks like it turns the soft brick into a cement brick. I'm
wondering if I'll still be able to take my three piece kilns apart after
I use ITC on the inside. I forgot to ask the nice ITC folks while they
were visiting here in Philly. On occasion, a student will make something
that is easier to lift the kiln over it rather than lifting it into the
kiln, if you know what I mean, either its too heavy or too delicate,
etc. If it forms a solid shell? I'll have to spray the sections
separately. Any feedback most appreciated.
TIA
--
Frank Gaydos
510 Gerritt St.
Philadelphia,Pa.
19147-5821 USA
Nils Lou on fri 30 oct 98
Frank, ITC should be applied thinly, except for coating fiber when the
build up should be about 1/16th inch or so. ITC on IFB is sprayed just
enough to coat like paint, so you should have no trouble separating bricks
when needed. Hope this helps, NIls Lou
On Thu, 29 Oct 1998, Frank Gaydos wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> To anyone familiar with ITC. My question is: I see by the sample I have
> of ITC it looks like it turns the soft brick into a cement brick. I'm
> wondering if I'll still be able to take my three piece kilns apart after
> I use ITC on the inside. I forgot to ask the nice ITC folks while they
> were visiting here in Philly. On occasion, a student will make something
> that is easier to lift the kiln over it rather than lifting it into the
> kiln, if you know what I mean, either its too heavy or too delicate,
> etc. If it forms a solid shell? I'll have to spray the sections
> separately. Any feedback most appreciated.
> TIA
> --
> Frank Gaydos
> 510 Gerritt St.
> Philadelphia,Pa.
> 19147-5821 USA
>
C. A. Sanger on wed 9 dec 98
I'll add fat to the fire and witness for a commercial product, although
I'm not tied in any way to the manufacturer. It was coincidence that
Mr. Mel Jacobson just had a article in CM about ITC products. I'm a new
potter and had been studying brochures and info about ITC the last year
or so. My spouse thought it sounded great, so we discussed it with a
friend who had already been firing his self-built kiln for two years.
He was unhappy with his propane usage. He sprayed ITC in his updraft
and used the patch in a couple spots. End result: he reduced his
propane consumption by two-thirds, and his firing time by half! And
every load he fires yields that same amazing result! I didn't need to
hear more, then saw Mr. Jacobson's CM article. So yesterday we sprayed
my own kiln with ITC. I use natural gas, but it's the same updraft kiln
as my friend's. I hope to have the same savings as he did.
C. A. Sanger
ShardRock Clay Studio
319 North C
Herington, KS 67449
mel jacobson on mon 31 may 99
of all the coatings out there, and many new ones keep appearing at
my door.
itc is the best so far.
and the cost is very cheap, compared to spalling.
and most other coatings spall off.
so, save a buck, wreck your kiln and pots.
same old story.
mel.mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
mel jacobson on fri 4 jun 99
i am very busy here at the farm..doing duties.
but, have a minute.
ferris is a ceramic engineer..........he has many technical
theories.
most potters still live in the twelfth century, and don't wnat to come out.
i just take his advice, and try to improve on it when i can. i am a potter,
that is
what i do..i am not a physicist or engineer. just do what i think will
work the best.
we are trying to make a kiln that will fire with salt and use the great
insulating properties of soft brick and fibre.
that is what we did.....take the advice, or argue.
don't care. all we know is that the kiln fires in less than 5 hours.
perfect reduction. cone 11....and the salt does not destroy the modules or
brick.
i will not fuss over details.
i invented in a way, the use of expanded metal for the base ...seems to help.
and it makes it flat and easy to construct. try it if you like.....i
give the idea
as a gift. ferris say's it helps a great deal....the kiln works as he said
it would,
so i do not argue with him.
we had a great deal of itc 100 so we used a great deal on the fibre...it
just seemed
to be the thing to do when using salt.
kurt and i just do things....then send out the result.
use it if you please. we are now casting the tops for the small train kiln.
and we are tired. we will let you all know how it turns out.
and yes, we are lifting the kiln on expanded metal.
seems only correct.
mel/mn
"mel, you talk to potters, they think 2+2 is 7, and it drives me nuts."
delcik 1998
Earl Brunner on mon 4 oct 99
I have heard sfor some time now about people coating their electric
kilns and elements with ITC to improve performance and increase the life
of the elements. Someone told me last week that people were finding
that they had a problem when it came time to replace the elements in a
kiln that had been coated with ITC. Basically , that the elements were
glued to the brick so well that in the process of removing the old
elements, a lot of brick came with them and caused considerable damage
to the kiln. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this
problem of it it was even true or not.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
mel jacobson on tue 12 oct 99
at no time has anyone that has run experiments withy itc ever
sait that is `was mircle, holy grail`....it is a good ceramic coating.
works well.
when i compare having fibre in my lungs to coating it with itc...well
the answer is clear. it has done a good job on the salt kiln here at the
farm, but not total protection...we are going to have to repair the
flame way this spring...some errosion, and feriz said that may happen.
we will repair with fiber soaked in itc100. some bricks are flaking some salt
off the surface...about 1/16th of an inch...will re/spray this spring.
all in all, the kiln is holding up really well...almost 25 firings to cone
11..heavy
salt...and minor break down.
our other kiln was dead about after 30 firings. (softbrick).
the secret to spraying fiber seems to be in crushing it first...flatten it
as much as you can....ferez say's `drive your truck over it.`
if you spray it on vertical fiber, it will sooner or later pull away from the
weight of the fired itc....just makes sense.
i have seen people sprayng over an old salt kiln, it did not work...seen
people spray over dry brick..and wonder why it comes off.
they did not follow the simple instructions....clean, wet brick...then spray.
flattened fibre...and as to the coils sticking...well never have seen that.
i can triple the life of coils in an electric kiln...then bitch if a little
brick comes
off...well, i will take the triple life.
this stuff is just a good ceramic coating, that is all it is billed as.
use it if you wish.
if not....no one cares.
but, it is like looking for used hard brick to build a kiln...ignore modern
bricks...go back 400 years.
and then bitch because it does not make temp in 20 hours. dumb.
and use 500 gallons of propane...and bitch about the cost.
build well, build smart...it pays.
mel/mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
written from the farm in wisconsin
Joyce Lee on wed 13 oct 99
I don't have the experience ... not even close... of Mel,
Linda et al with various kinds of kilns and firings. I have had,
however, more than satisfactory success using ITC on kilns, shelves,
elements and repairing cracks... repaired another one yesterday. I don't
even know Alice and Feriz nor have I met in person my friends/mentors
Mel or Linda ... but I feel compelled to encourage you who are thinking
about applying ITC to your appropriate surfaces to do so. I have met
Nils and observed him applying ITC to a brand new kiln at a kilnbuilding
workshop at Lynn Rank's place ... that helped my understanding of the
process, of course. I saw firsthand that it is majorly important to
follow instructions exactly! As is my wont, I fretted and worried too
long before spraying my electric and small Geil gas kilns. Even after
the workshop, I asked for and received all sorts of advice from
Clayarters. I then fretted some more. Like many of us, I tend to
mountain my molehills anyway, until suddenly I'm on top of the mountain,
from whence I take a running leap into what is basically a very small
risk ... and the moles scatter in all directions. That was the way with
ITC. But, if you are not much for following directions, don't apply the
ITC to your valuable equipment ... regrets would probably be forthcoming
and, if you're like I am and must blame someone (ELSE), you'll then
contribute to the badmouthing of a good product.
Joyce
In the Mojave pleased to discover Bacia's work on Russel's pages!
Exciting use of cyberspace, R.
ferenc jakab on sun 9 jan 00
-------------------
I'm not sure I've spelt this correctly (ITC) It's an acronym used a lot in =
this
forum as initials for some kind of spray for coating ceramic fibre. Could =
some
body please tell me what the initials stand for and who produces it?
If any body knows an Australian distributor could you pleas let me know?
Earl Brunner on wed 26 apr 00
OK, I have the ITC 100 for my fiber kiln and it did come
with some instructions. Is there anything anyone out there
would suggest above and beyond the provided instructions
before I under take this?
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Bryan Hannis on mon 8 may 00
Can anyone tell if you have to fire the kiln to set or cure the ITC after
you have sprayed it with ITC and before you can load with pottery??
Bryan Hannis
mel jacobson on tue 4 jul 00
you can call alice at itc 1 904 285 0200
or/axner carries the full line.
as do others. mel
clayart mail
melpots2@pclink.com
Craig Martell on wed 22 nov 00
Phil sez:
>Just a brief note to thank those of you who replied regarding my query
>over ITC. Very useful...... If there is still anyone with a comment to
>make, good or bad, then I would like to read it.
Hi Phil:
I wouldn't use the stuff on hard firebrick again. I sprayed the inside of
my salt kiln about two years ago and am still getting small chunks of itc
off the arch. They usually land on the nicest pots. I did everything as
recommended by the maker of itc to make the stuff adhere well and it's just
not working as it should. So, I guess my opinion is that it is ok for soft
firebrick but not so good for hards.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
philrogers pottery on wed 22 nov 00
Just a brief note to thank those of you who replied regarding my query =
over ITC. Very useful...... If there is still anyone with a comment to =
make, good or bad, then I would like to read it.=20
Mel, I am told you have some knowledge of ITC??
Many thanks, =20
Phil.
Phil and Lynne Rogers,
Lower Cefn Faes,
RHAYADER.
Powys. LD6 5LT.
Tel/fax. (44) 01597 810875.
philrogers@ntlworld.com
mel jacobson on wed 22 nov 00
my conclusions are:
if used to the directions, and people do not
think it is a cure all, miracle. well, it works.
it is a fine coating on soft brick and fibre.
it does nothing to hard brick, a waste of time.
fibre must be crushed flat before application. if you
add it to loose fibre it will just cause the whole mess to
pull away.
it has great application in electric kilns and on coil life.
it does save you money, but your first thought should be;
are my pots going to be better because of it?
a solid coating on any fibre kiln will help your lungs the most.
it is worth the cost of application X 1,000.
we have used it on many kilns. it has always topped our
expectations.
and the delkics do not pay me a thing.
we are great friends and i trust them. (feriz can rub potters the
wrong way, he is very blunt, and never politically correct. i just
ignore that as much as i can. alice's charm and love of people make
up for his small indiscretions. )
mel
clayart mail
melpots2@pclink.com
Sandy Tesar on fri 24 nov 00
Mel,
Do you flatten your fiber and coat it with itc BEFORE you put the
fiber in your expanded metal or after...and if it is to be flattened
after ( which seems more logical to me) HOW do you flatten it? OR do you
flatten in BEFORE and spray it AFTER.....and while I am making a complete
a-- of myself....what do you flatten it with? A rolling pin, a slab
roller or a car???
As a new fiber raku kiln is my project for December, I would
appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Sandy T.
________________________________________________________________
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John Tilton on tue 13 feb 01
Has anyone actually used the ITC product that is supposed to protect
electric kiln elements? What do you think about it? Would it protect
them from the caustic atmosphere of zinc glazes?
Thanks in advance.
John
--
John Tilton
16211 NW 88th Terrace
Alachua, Fl. 32615
904-462-3762
Web site: http://www.tiltonpottery.com
mailto:tilton@atlantic.net
Gerald & Phyllis Durbin on mon 19 mar 01
We finally got our kiln hooked up and ready to fire. We want to know if
we should put ITC on the kiln before we fire? and the coils?
can someone help?
Thanks
John Post on wed 27 jun 01
John Hesselberth said:
>I recently put ITC 213 on a new set of
> elements for my small test kiln. I followed the
instructions that have been
> posted here on Clayart several times. I have already lost
the first element
> in half the normal time. It just burned through.
John,
I had this problem when I replaced some elements in my test
kiln with ITC coated elements. I traced my problem to the
element staples that I used. I put in new elements but used
the old staples. It turns out they were made of different
metals and there was a reaction between the two when I fired
them causing it to burn right through in several places.
> Also my coated elements spit little particles of "stuff"
all over the kiln
> for quite a few firings after it was applied. It happened
during the
> cooling cycle when the kiln was cool enough that no pots
were damaged, but
> it does dirty up the inside of your kiln.
I had this problem too and when I called them at ITC, they
said this was a normal part of the process and it did settle
down after a few firings. I think a top coating of ITC
296-A might take care of this.
I haven't made up my mind yet whether or not I think the 213
works. I have 3 of 4 elements in my test kiln coated with
the ITC 213 and they are holding up fine, I only had to
replace one because of the staple problem.
I do like the 100HT coating though. I have it sprayed on
the inside of my test kiln and an old electric shell that I
got from a dumpster to use as a raku kiln. On both kilns
the surface is in perfect shape. The raku kiln fires much
quicker with the ITC 100 coating.
I think this thread started with someone asking about ITC
voiding a kiln warranty. If it was me and I wanted to apply
ITC to the kiln, I would do just do it myself when I got the
kiln. The only part of a kiln that I would be worried
about being under warranty would be the electronic
controller if it had one, and the ITC doesn't get sprayed on
that. The elements are easily replaceable at a small cost.
And as long as you don't overspray the walls with the 100HT
the bricks should be fine. So I guess what I'm saying is
that the only mechanical part that you are altering is the
elements and if the buyer is willing to take that risk of
having to replace them if things work out, then there really
is not that much to worry about.
John Post
Ron Collins on wed 27 jun 01
Don't send me to the archives yet! I just ordered my new L and L =
electric kiln from Bennett's in central FL. I asked them about ITC =
coating and they told me that if I put it on the kiln it will void the =
warranty. I was under the impression that in most cases it will be a =
more energy efficient firing with no real downside. I am assuming that =
it voids the warranty because they can't control the application. I =
have written to L and L to ask them about it, but they have not =
responded. =20
That is why I am asking a general question. Does anyone know why they =
would void their warranty, or why you think they don't put in on at the =
factory, if requested. I don't want to do the wrong thing. It took a =
lot of giving lessons and a lot of claymaking and work to get the 3,000 =
it will cost by the time it gets here. =20
Again, I asked L and L by e-mail over a week ago, but no one has =
replied. I am over my limit on internet time already this month, so =
can't search archives in any lenghy way. I have been on a Peruvian =
double chambered whistling vessel kick and think I ate up my time with =
that. I just am wondering what I ought to do. Melinda in Guatemala
John Hesselberth on thu 28 jun 01
on 6/27/01 8:27 PM, Ron Collins at Melron@CONEXION.COM.GT wrote:
> That is why I am asking a general question. Does anyone know why they would
> void their warranty, or why you think they don't put in on at the factory, if
> requested. I don't want to do the wrong thing. It took a lot of giving
> lessons and a lot of claymaking and work to get the 3,000 it will cost by the
> time it gets here.
Hi Ron,
ITC products seem to be quite popular with Clayart members, but I'll relate
some negative experience I've had. I recently put ITC 213 on a new set of
elements for my small test kiln. I followed the instructions that have been
posted here on Clayart several times. I have already lost the first element
in half the normal time. It just burned through. Now was that just a
poorly made element or did I not apply the ITC correctly or was it the fault
of ITC? Who knows? I certainly don't.
Also my coated elements spit little particles of "stuff" all over the kiln
for quite a few firings after it was applied. It happened during the
cooling cycle when the kiln was cool enough that no pots were damaged, but
it does dirty up the inside of your kiln.
I think kiln manufacturers are being cautious about a product like ITC when
they hear stories like mine. So far as I can tell, all the stories about
ITC 213 are experiential--both positive and negative ones. I'm not aware of
any scientifically based studies that show this product will extend element
life or save money. If such data exist I would certainly like to see them
published in a peer-reviewed technical journal. Until then I will regard
them in the same light as people who know a person who smoked all their life
and lived to be 110 and, therefore, conclude that smoking does not harm
health. Experiential stories, including mine, are not a valid way of
proving anything.
I, for certain, will not be using ITC again unless/until I see some hard
data ( not experiential stories like mine) on its value. With my single data
point, I don't think the mess, fuss and cost of putting it on was worth it.
But I also know a lot of people feel differently.
Regards, John
Web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com Email: john@frogpondpottery.com
"The life so short, the craft so long to learn." Chaucer's translation of
Hippocrates, 5th cent. B.C.
Wade Blocker on thu 28 jun 01
Melinda,
Some time ago when I first read about ITC in Clayart I asked my local
supplier about it.The answer I received was that he could not recommend
using it. Mia in hot ABQ
Joyce Lee on fri 29 jun 01
Alice, bless her, when she was alive sent
me examples of ITC applied to kiln-like materials. I'm sure she could tell
all the way across country that I was a total ignoramus about such things.
Helped me understand just how it should look as a finished product; however,
I did not know that the ITC (at least, on my kilns and shelves) would appear
to hardly BE there when first sprayed and still wet ... BUT after firing,
the kilns did have the eggshell thickness of which the company's literature
spoke. Sooo I felt relatively insecure until the ITC was thoroughly dry.
Having Alice on the other end of the phone line aided in abating my
insecurities ... what a lovely lady!
AND I still grapple with those potterly concepts of thin, too thin, not thin
enough, just right....... AND use a fettling knife around the bottom 1/4" or
so of your pot after glazing until it's thin enough NOT TO RUN.... well, how
thin is that? AND add water to the "right" consistency for glazes!!
on&on&on...... the challenges are unending.....
Joyce
In the Mojave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Girrell"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: ITC
> I see the recommendation to apply ITC *thinly* repeatedly. Yet with ITC100
> having the consistency of a beach sand/water mix, how does one define
> "thin"?
>
> I used a Critter sprayer to apply my ITC to some kiln shelves and the size
> of some of the grit was just a bit too large to make it through the
opening,
> so I got mostly the thin, gray stuff applied with little grit. Since I had
> obviously not applied the mixture in the manner intended, I tried brushing
> it on. Now it is probably too thick. It doesn't seem to help with glaze
> drips, anyway.
>
> Does Feriz or anyone have a photo that shows what a proper application of
> ITC should look like? How thin is thin? How thick is too thick?
>
> Bruce "who, himself, could stand to be thinner" Girrell
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Joyce Lee on fri 29 jun 01
I know there are many posts in the archives
about ITC. I've sprayed it on two of my three kilns and feel, as Earl =
does, that it might not have been as important on my Geil fiber kilns =
since they fire=20
rapidly, efficiently and safely anyway. The last, largest Geil seems to =
have been treated with a substance similar to ITC and I was advised by =
claybuds, including the mayor, to leave it alone since it was brand =
new, state-of-the-art as is. The fiber on this last Geil
has been applied in flat squares which could be easily removed, if =
needed, in spots; I would then treat the new, replacement fiber square =
with ITC.
The ITC is valuable on the smaller Geil for the reasons that Earl =
enumerated, mainly because
it keeps the fiber stable....... and, in my case,
discourages the black widow spiders that abide
throughout the desert. However, on this 8 cu ft kiln, designed for ^10, =
I was unable to reach ^11 until after spraying it with ITC. Then, no =
sweat.
There was a major change in the efficiency of my Cress electric kiln =
after application of ITC... and the soft brick stopped crumbling, which =
it was doing from time to time prior to spraying.
Where I've noted a major, significant change is
the application (brushed) of ITC on my shelves.
Before applying ITC to the shelves, I filled
a folder with my complaints about glaze runs etc... my shelves were in a =
constant state of noticeable deterioration.... yes, this was caused =
almost
entirely by my newbie lack of understanding about how to glaze my pots, =
and not placing the questionable pots on thin, clay pads ... kiln wash =
was some help, but not much and prevented alternating the shelves top to =
bottom for firings. ITC was applied THINLYTHINLYTHINLY once to each =
shelf, including the sides, which made a positive change in my =
attitudes toward firing.
FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS when applying is VITAL for a successful =
conclusion..... otherwise, you'll have a mess..... bad mess.
Joyce
In the Mojave preparing to have my work.... all of it
... juried today ... for possible guild entry ... if I decide that maybe =
I do want to start selling my pots. I'd be the ONLY potter in this =
rather
prestigious group which advertises heavily .... soooooooo...... we'll =
see......
makes me nervous.............=20
David Woodin on fri 29 jun 01
I have sprayed over 30 kiln with ITC 100 and have not had any problems. A
potential problem is if you spray the elements too heavily the element will
stick to the brick and break the brick when you change elements. In an open
studio and University situation the elements have lasted 2 1/2 times longer
than the un sprayed elements. Some so called problems with ITC that I have
seen is spraying fiber too thickly , wetting the brick with water too much
which caused a fuse to blow when the kiln was turned on, poor preparation of
the surface and not following the directions.
David
Bruce Girrell on fri 29 jun 01
I see the recommendation to apply ITC *thinly* repeatedly. Yet with ITC100
having the consistency of a beach sand/water mix, how does one define
"thin"?
I used a Critter sprayer to apply my ITC to some kiln shelves and the size
of some of the grit was just a bit too large to make it through the opening,
so I got mostly the thin, gray stuff applied with little grit. Since I had
obviously not applied the mixture in the manner intended, I tried brushing
it on. Now it is probably too thick. It doesn't seem to help with glaze
drips, anyway.
Does Feriz or anyone have a photo that shows what a proper application of
ITC should look like? How thin is thin? How thick is too thick?
Bruce "who, himself, could stand to be thinner" Girrell
iandol on sat 30 jun 01
Dear John Hesselberth,
It is a long time since I rewired a burned out tube furnace but I recall =
cementing the single strand nichrome and Kanthal elements in place with =
a mixture of Pure Fused Alumina and Bisulphite Lye. the purpose of this =
coating was to help towards creating an even temperature within the tube =
where the specimens were fired.
Now I would imagine that coating any electrical elements with a =
refractory coating with change the emissivity, which is the ability to =
radiate heat. If it increases the rate of radiation the elements will =
remain cool. If it decreases the rate of radiation heat will be retained =
and the elements may over heat. Those are things which can be measured.
So before coming to any conclusions perhaps the makers need to describe =
the scientific principles behind their products. And until that =
information is provided I think following your cautious approach is =
worthwhile.
Best regards,
Ivor.
Lee Burningham on tue 22 jan 02
Howdy,
A couple of itc questions for the mayor , et. al. using itc for various
kilns.
1. Can itc be used in a soft brick kiln now being converted to salt-firing?
Will it save the soft brick? The pottery teacher next school north has had a
gas, soft-brick kiln donated to the school. He would like to use it as a
salt kiln. Is it just wishful thinking on his part, or, can the itc, coated
through the entire kiln, save the soft brick from the fluxing action of the
sodium?
2. I have heard pro and con on coating the elements of an electric kiln with
itc, along with the interior bricks, to improve the longevity of the
elements. Do you coat the elements of your electric kiln with itc? Does it
increase/decrease electrical resistance in the elements? How does it make
the elements last longer? Less electron loss at high temp/electrical load?
3. Does the use of itc increase the thermal "skin" of the kiln, enabling the
same kiln to fire faster/more economically? Does itc react more
favorably/less favorably in gas/reduction vs. electric/oxidation firings?
Lee Burningham
Box Elder High School
Great snow last night. Lots of fun to drive in.
Diane Woloshyn on wed 23 jan 02
Hi Lee,
Have used ITC in two kilns, one electric and one electric/gas conversion.
Have been very please with both. It cut down on the actual firing time.
Have a kiln controller and a timer on one kiln. The timer only runs when the
electricity cycles on. The overall firing time is the same, because of the
controller, but it takes less energy.
Diane Florida Bird Lady
mel jacobson on fri 1 feb 02
spray it all.
even your underwear.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Deborah Thompson on wed 5 feb 03
I have my first small kiln, only fired a couple of times -- how do I treat it with ITC? I saw at the Axner site they had an air gun to apply it -- is that only for large kilns or can it be brushed on? Do I have to take the elements out (I hope not!) I'm just getting ready to start using some paperclay and don't want to kill my kiln prematurely! Help!
Deborah
---------------------------------
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mel jacobson on sat 19 apr 03
the standard method when doing an electric
kiln is to:
take out the old coils.
wash and wet the kiln.
one very light coat of itc 100
over the entire interior.
213 on the coils, thin and let dry.
install coils.
again, spray the entire kiln with a thin coat
of itc 100.
let dry.
bisque fire empty to about cone 014...does
not really matter.
just a lite firing.
mel
remember, i like to put the itc 213 in a blender with
water, blend the pee out of it.
get it really well mixed. keep it stirred.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.TICK-ATTACK.COM
mel jacobson on wed 13 oct 04
i have found that thinning a quart to a quart will work just fine.
it is important to mix it well.
and, keep it mixed when spraying.
i suggest a second person to stir.
it will settle very fast.
i like to keep the feed pail high...like on a ladder top.
let gravity work.
it will take about ten minutes to spray an electric kiln.
lots of hoopla and nerves, and it is over in minutes.
like bad sex.
also.
it will smoke a bit on the first few hours of firing.
it is just the adhesive burning off.
typical venting is just fine.
open windows, etc. a fan always helps.
remember the inexpensive sand blasting spray gun
works the best.
you will need 40-50 lbs of pressure, and a bigger
spray system works well, as pressure drops very fast.
you can spray for a minute or two, let the compressor catch up.
a thin even coat is best.
thick and blobby is bad.
spray right over the coils, thermocouple...everything.
give it a nice even, thin coat.
one can see very clearly where you have sprayed. turns
a rich gray.
remember, wash your kiln before you spray.
i know, that will freak many folks...but i use the spray
gun and spray the entire inside of the kiln with pressurized
water.
cleans that puppy like a dream.
after you spray, let it air dry for a few hours...then turn it on
low....for about an hour.
then to high for about 15 minutes. it will smoke and puff for
a bit, then just turn it off, and look forward to many firings.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
J Lutz on thu 14 oct 04
Mel,
If you wash out an electric kiln - how do you drain it?
Or were you talking only about a gas or wood kiln?
Jean Lutz
At 06:30 PM 10/13/2004, you wrote:
>remember, wash your kiln before you spray.i know, that will freak many
>folks...but i use the spraygun and spray the entire inside of the kiln
>with pressurizedwater.cleans that puppy like a dream.after you spray, let
>it air dry for a few hours...then turn it on
>low....for about an hour.then to high for about 15 minutes. it will smoke
>and puff for
>a bit, then just turn it off, and look forward to many firings.mel
Joyce LEE on thu 14 oct 04
Glad to see the mayor relating some of the many uses of
ITC. When I ordered ITC for my first small Geil kiln several years
ago I had the pleasure of speaking with Alice directly; it was
she who guided me through the whole application and firing
experience via telephone. I was embarrassed later when I
understood that we potters are a very tiny part of the Delkic's
business, virtually insignificant, yet Alice treated me as
if I were the most influential and deep-pocketed customer they
had. =20
Why did I coat my two Geil's and one Cress electric with ITC?
Because when I ran the information by #1 Support Person, his
engineering mind said, "Can't hurt, especially on those soft bricks
which seem so fragile. Come to think of it, it must be superior
to that kiln wash you've been using on the shelves. Find out=20
about coating the elements, too." I asked Mel, and ordered
an appropriate amount, applied several eggshell thin coats and
haven't had a problem since with flaking etc. Coincidentally, I
have a potter friend with a small Geil precisely like mine..... she
did not apply ITC.... has problems removing running glazes that
I haven't had...... elements had to be replaced; mine haven't .....
shelves must be turned over for each firing; mine do not ....
and she's a much better potter. I also coated the wooden
wall behind my electric kiln.... cut the surface heat dramatically.
(I didn't run an official, nor unofficial, test of any sort, just=20
judged the Drama Effect by the Whoops/Wow Method.... touched the
wall without ITC.... Whoops, damn, that's hot! ... touched again after
application of ITC.... Wow, not hot.)=20
Joyce
In the Mojave glad to hear the latest on Mata Ortiz. I do want to
get down/over there within the next few months, after returning
from Mendocino Potters Council regional conference in January. I
was also pleased to hear Valice's voice on the list once again. She
made such a huge life change! More power to her.
Ama Menec on tue 26 oct 04
For the benefit of us Brits who haven't heard of ITC, (and I know I'm not
the only one; I gave a talk/demo to Westcountry Potters Association this
week end and none of them had heard of it either), what exactly is it? Does
it have a name besides its abbreviation? Can you tell by looking at a kiln
if it's be ITC'd? What does it look like?
Ama, bemused of Totnes.
Ken Nowicki on tue 26 oct 04
Here you go:
International Technical Ceramics = ITC
Feriz Delkic is the Ceramic Engineer that developed this proprietary
non-conductive thermal refractory coating. It is available by several ceramic supply
retailers here in the United States, one of which is Axner Pottery Supply. I do
not know personally where you can purchase this product outside of the U.S.
You can contact ITC directly at the information below for further assistance
and answering of your questions... or try a Google search on the Internet. Also,
read Nils Lou's article which should shed more information on the product at
---> http://ceramic-materials.com/cermat/education/110.html
Hope this helps.
- Ken
Kenneth J. Nowicki
Port Washington, NY
RakuArtist@aol.com
Charter Member/Potters Council
.......................................................
International Technical Ceramics, Inc.
P.O. Box 1726
Ponte Vedra, FL 32004
(904) 285-0200
(904) 273-1616 - Fax
Axner Pottery Supply
490 Kane Ct.
P.O. Box 621484
Oviedo, FL 32762-1484
(800) 843-7057 - toll free
(407) 365-2600
(407) 365-5573 - Fax
axner@ao.net - email
www.axner.com - website
........................................................
In a message dated 10/26/04, amamenec@LINEONE.NET writes:
For the benefit of us Brits who haven't heard of ITC, (and I know I'm not
the only one; I gave a talk/demo to Westcountry Potters Association this
week end and none of them had heard of it either), what exactly is it? Does
it have a name besides its abbreviation? Can you tell by looking at a kiln
if it's be ITC'd? What does it look like?
Ama, bemused of Totnes.
Craig Fulladosa on mon 15 may 06
I should probably know this already, since I met several Clayart friends at conferences that know about this stuff but I never brought it up. Now, I may be wanting to use it for a kiln I have. Also, my firend races cars and he was talking about getting some engine exhaust manifolds or other parts ceramic coated (fairly expensive) for heat insulation and I mentioned this ITC stuff might do the trick. Does it get hard ? Is it durable? How expensive is it? How do you apply it? Anyone know please let me know, or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I have not posted anything now in maybe 1 or 2 years. I hope you all have been well.I bet none noticed I was gone or even who the hell is this?
craig
the Clayman
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.
Marcia Selsor on tue 16 may 06
Here are the answers to your questions:
On May 15, 2006, at 7:35 PM, Craig Fulladosa wrote:
> Does it get hard ?
> YES
> Is it durable?
> YES especially on a brick surface. It sometimes needs recoating
> when on fiber,
> How expensive is it?
> Last time I checked it was close to $140/gallon at a local distributor
> How do you apply it?
> In the directions, you add 50% water, mix with a drill and jiffy
> mixer or a similar device,
apply with a sandblaster. It settles fast. I have stirred with one
hand one the drill and the other hand one the sandslaster.
> Anyone know please let me know, or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Your friend should call Feriz at ITC and ask about his racing items
that he wants to spray. There are various types of ITC, one for metal
coating.
>
>
>
>
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Russel Fouts on wed 27 sep 06
Donna,
What mel said:
itc is available through axner.com.
you don't need gobs of it.
it thins with water.
it is a thermal coating that does not spall off
the kiln.
it is not magic, just a quality thermal coating
for kilns and furnaces.
it is a great kiln wash.
it is great for posts and other parts of kilns.
i use it on my thermo/couples.
itc100
it is basically an industrial product...
And
If you think you're using it thin enough, you're probably wrong. It
needs to be really thin.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
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Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
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Leigh Whitaker on mon 7 jul 08
Someone mentioned ITC in the kiln element post. I looked it up and had some
questions about it.
There's on called ITC 213 which is, I guess, the one you would put on kiln
elements. Is that correct?
Does it prolong the life of the elements (in anyone's personal experience)?
How does one apply it to the elements?
Thanks!
Leigh Whitaker
visit my etsy shop at _http://www.leighwhitaker.etsy.com_
(http://www.leighwhitaker.etsy.com/)
visit my blog at _http://leighwhitaker.blogspot.com/_
(http://leighwhitaker.blogspot.com/)
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Nils Lou on fri 28 jan 11
Janet, Since you mentioned no one has posted positive results
using ITC on elements, let me be the first. I have used ITC in all
of its iterations, 100HT for refractories, 213 for metals, 200 for =3D
patching.
Since using ITC on elements for the kilns at Linfield College I have yet =
=3D
to=3D20
replace any! For instance, we have a small AIM test kiln altered to fire
with propane as an electric reduction kiln. New, I coated the elements =3D
with ITC 213,
then sprayed the interior with 100HT. This was ten years ago. It is =3D
currently
being used by a senior who has it set up in it her student studio. She =3D
is making
handbuilt miniature teapots in porcelain and firing them to C10 =3D
reduction in
2-1/2 hours achieving copper reds and celadons.=3D20
I advise when applying ITC 213 to first wash in clorox to clean any =3D
grease off.
Mix the ITC with water to thin mixture so it will basically stain the =3D
metal.
I use a wallpaper tray to then dip the elements in sloshing back and =3D
forth.=3D20
Immediately hang up to drip dry. Be sure to coat the entire element, =3D
including the=3D20
leads. This is where some have had failure. No need to use fancy =3D
elements as the=3D20
coating will make an entirely new interface material when heated. Just a =
=3D
thin coat
is required--basically a stain. I coat the thermocouples as well. If you =
=3D
have an
oxyprobe, dip the end in too.=3D20
nils lou, professor of art
http://nilslou.blogspot.com
www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
503.883.2274
"Play is the essence of creativity", and
"What is not brought forward into consciousness....
we later call Fate", Carl Jung
Nils Lou on sat 29 jan 11
Paul, elements develop a protective oxide coating under
neutral or oxidation conditions. This does a reasonable job
of extending their life. Under reducing conditions the oxide
"burns" off and the loss of the protective coating "rust" allows the=3D20
metal to lose atoms. ITC when applied correctly, combines chemically
with the elemental metal forming a third metallic compound on the =3D
element
surface that is
resistant to reducing atmospheres.=3D20
Axner kilns, I believe, have their elements coated with ITC.
nils lou, professor of art
http://nilslou.blogspot.com
www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
503.883.2274
"Play is the essence of creativity", and
"What is not brought forward into consciousness....
we later call Fate", Carl Jung
-----Original Message-----
From: paul gerhold [mailto:gerholdclay@dishmail.net]
Sent: Sat 1/29/2011 5:29 AM
To: Nils Lou
Cc: Clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
Subject: Re: ITC
=3D20
I have followed ITC discussions for years and have yet to read any
explanation of how ITC works to extend element life. My assumption
has always been that it somehow interferes with the reaction between
the surface of the elements and the oxygen in the kiln and thus
extends element life. If this is true wouldn't it be less effective
in a reduction kiln?
I also wonder why you cannot but replacements already coated with ITC.
Paul
> Janet, Since you mentioned no one has posted positive results
> using ITC on elements, let me be the first. I have used ITC in all
> of its iterations, 100HT for refractories, 213 for metals, 200 for =3D
patching.
> Since using ITC on elements for the kilns at Linfield College I have =3D
yet to
> replace any! For instance, we have a small AIM test kiln altered to =3D
fire
> with propane as an electric reduction kiln. New, I coated the elements =
=3D
with ITC 213,
> then sprayed the interior with 100HT. This was ten years ago. It is =3D
currently
> being used by a senior who has it set up in it her student studio. She =
=3D
is making
> handbuilt miniature teapots in porcelain and firing them to C10 =3D
reduction in
> 2-1/2 hours achieving copper reds and celadons.
> I advise when applying ITC 213 to first wash in clorox to clean any =3D
grease off.
> Mix the ITC with water to thin mixture so it will basically stain the =3D
metal.
> I use a wallpaper tray to then dip the elements in sloshing back and =3D
forth.
> Immediately hang up to drip dry. Be sure to coat the entire element, =3D
including the
> leads. This is where some have had failure. No need to use fancy =3D
elements as the
> coating will make an entirely new interface material when heated. Just =
=3D
a thin coat
> is required--basically a stain. I coat the thermocouples as well. If =3D
you have an
> oxyprobe, dip the end in too.
>
>
> nils lou, professor of art
> http://nilslou.blogspot.com
> www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
> 503.883.2274
> "Play is the essence of creativity", and
> "What is not brought forward into consciousness....
> we later call Fate", Carl Jung
>
Nils Lou on sat 29 jan 11
one pint should be more than enough for your kiln, Janet.
I coat the leads, and see no reason not to.
nils lou, professor of art
http://nilslou.blogspot.com
www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
503.883.2274
"Play is the essence of creativity", and
"What is not brought forward into consciousness....
we later call Fate", Carl Jung
-----Original Message-----
From: Janet Moe [mailto:jmoepottery@gmail.com]
Sent: Sat 1/29/2011 10:35 AM
To: Nils Lou
Cc: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
Subject: Re: ITC
=3D20
Nils,
One more question, you say to coat the leads as well but in the ITC
instructions I've seen it says not to coat the leads. Just wondering...
Janet, on Vancouver Island
paul gerhold on sat 29 jan 11
I have followed ITC discussions for years and have yet to read any
explanation of how ITC works to extend element life. My assumption
has always been that it somehow interferes with the reaction between
the surface of the elements and the oxygen in the kiln and thus
extends element life. If this is true wouldn't it be less effective
in a reduction kiln?
I also wonder why you cannot but replacements already coated with ITC.
Paul
> Janet, Since you mentioned no one has posted positive results
> using ITC on elements, let me be the first. I have used ITC in all
> of its iterations, 100HT for refractories, 213 for metals, 200 for patchi=
ng.
> Since using ITC on elements for the kilns at Linfield College I have yet =
to
> replace any! For instance, we have a small AIM test kiln altered to fire
> with propane as an electric reduction kiln. New, I coated the elements wi=
th ITC 213,
> then sprayed the interior with 100HT. This was ten years ago. It is curre=
ntly
> being used by a senior who has it set up in it her student studio. She is=
making
> handbuilt miniature teapots in porcelain and firing them to C10 reduction=
in
> 2-1/2 hours achieving copper reds and celadons.
> I advise when applying ITC 213 to first wash in clorox to clean any greas=
e off.
> Mix the ITC with water to thin mixture so it will basically stain the met=
al.
> I use a wallpaper tray to then dip the elements in sloshing back and fort=
h.
> Immediately hang up to drip dry. Be sure to coat the entire element, incl=
uding the
> leads. This is where some have had failure. No need to use fancy elements=
as the
> coating will make an entirely new interface material when heated. Just a =
thin coat
> is required--basically a stain. I coat the thermocouples as well. If you =
have an
> oxyprobe, dip the end in too.
>
>
> nils lou, professor of art
> http://nilslou.blogspot.com
> www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
> 503.883.2274
> "Play is the essence of creativity", and
> "What is not brought forward into consciousness....
> we later call Fate", Carl Jung
>
Janet Moe on sat 29 jan 11
Nils, thanks for the info. I am still undecided about ITC but you give me
lots to think about. I won't be replacing my elements until I return from m=
y
travels in March so won't make an immediate decision. I always procrastinat=
e
if I can!! The fact that I have to mail order the ITC makes me procrastinat=
e
even more. As for applying the ITC, thanks for the tip. Now if I buy a pint
will that be enough to do the elements in a tray? My kiln has 12 elements
that are 90 inches long each when stretched. Thanks again for your help.
Janet, on Vancouver Island
Janet Moe on sat 29 jan 11
Nils,
One more question, you say to coat the leads as well but in the ITC
instructions I've seen it says not to coat the leads. Just wondering...
Janet, on Vancouver Island
mel jacobson on mon 9 apr 12
one thing that is for sure....itc has a glue/or adhesive that
bonds it to brick and metal.
others do not.
and, the great fear for potters is spalling, or flaking of
thermal liners into their pots.
that is a for sure with itc...it stays on the brick or fiber.
others do not.
test and test more.
mel
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart page below:
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
http://www.21stcenturykilns.com/
jonathan byler on mon 9 apr 12
from what I can tell, that "glue" is the colloidal silica. in some
ways ITC is not that different from the materials used in ceramic
shell molds made for casting metal. similar materials get used,
though the technique is a bit different for sure.
From what I can tell they never patented ITC, probably because if you
mentioned what is in it, it would be pretty easy to make from
scratch. Great Idea, but hard to make money off of it, unless you can
keep secrets. Patents are not very good ways to keep secrets, and
they are hard to enforce, especially for small companies to enforce.
The MSDS sheet doesn't give a clue as to what is in the stuff, but it
is some kind of binder and either zirconum dioxide or zircon flour
(zirconium silicate) plus probably some other materials. one of these
days I'm going to make some, just to satiate my curiosity.
On Apr 9, 2012, at 1:16 PM, mel jacobson wrote:
> one thing that is for sure....itc has a glue/or adhesive that
> bonds it to brick and metal.
>
> others do not.
> and, the great fear for potters is spalling, or flaking of
> thermal liners into their pots.
>
> that is a for sure with itc...it stays on the brick or fiber.
> others do not.
> test and test more.
> mel
> http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
> clayart page below:
> http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
> http://www.21stcenturykilns.com/
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