B J Hulley on mon 3 feb 97
I hope someone here can tell me if this is a normal cone 06 bisque firing
time for Skutt C231 (interior 22.75", depth 27" ,amps 48.9). Low-4 hours
(all plugs out), Medium-2 hours (all plugs in), High- 1 hour and 15 min
for sitter to drop (06 junior in sitter, senior 06 in 3rd from bottom
peep beginning to bend), then I restarted and it took 16 more minutes for
senior 06 to flatten. I am asking because:
1. This is the first Skutt I've had anything to do with (and it's an
oldtimer though in beautiful shape) and 2. The High part of any 06 firing
of the other same size kiln (Olympic) has always been around 5 hours (but
I've always loaded that kiln super heavy). I would consider this one was
a light load (20 wine goblets, 12 mugs, 8 soup bowls, 3 planters-10", 7
vases-20"and some tester tiles).
If this kiln is firing too fast what would be a more reasonable schedule?
(The multimeter read perfection at the cord so I guess the elements are
new). Nothing cracked but next is the glaze load (I'm sending reglazers
through just in case).
Thankyou very much in advance. We had a balmy 40F in Vernon, BC, CAN.
Groundhogs had to wear sunscreen.
Brooks Burgess on tue 4 feb 97
At 09:29 AM 2/3/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I hope someone here can tell me if this is a normal cone 06 bisque firing
>time for Skutt C231 (interior 22.75", depth 27" ,amps 48.9). Low-4 hours
>(all plugs out), Medium-2 hours (all plugs in), High- 1 hour and 15 min
>for sitter to drop (06 junior in sitter, senior 06 in 3rd from bottom
>peep beginning to bend), then I restarted and it took 16 more minutes for
>senior 06 to flatten. I am asking because:
>1. This is the first Skutt I've had anything to do with (and it's an
>oldtimer though in beautiful shape) and 2. The High part of any 06 firing
>of the other same size kiln (Olympic) has always been around 5 hours (but
>I've always loaded that kiln super heavy). I would consider this one was
>a light load (20 wine goblets, 12 mugs, 8 soup bowls, 3 planters-10", 7
>vases-20"and some tester tiles).
>If this kiln is firing too fast what would be a more reasonable schedule?
>(The multimeter read perfection at the cord so I guess the elements are
>new). Nothing cracked but next is the glaze load (I'm sending reglazers
>through just in case).
>Thankyou very much in advance. We had a balmy 40F in Vernon, BC, CAN.
>Groundhogs had to wear sunscreen.
>
>I don't know if it is "too fast"or not but it is within the time limits
I've experienced with my Skutt 1027. I primarily used mine for bisque so
dont know how the time factor is going to work with your glaze load though
cracking in a "too fast " situation with refires might be a consideration.
My kiln seems to go as slow as you decide to run it up until you turn all
switches up to high , then it is about an hour till the sitter cuts it off
at cone 07. Using a "enviro vent" I dont bother with the peep plugs in and
out but if pots are damp I usually leave the kiln lid propped open about an
inch until the pots have warmed and dried. Prehaps I don't worry enough
about even temperatures throughout the kiln but I often turn up only one
switch at a time to slow down the rate of climb. My usuall bisque cycle for
dry pots not too dense of a load = 5 hour minimum 8 hour average anything
over 8 hours only if I got sucked in to the television. Damp heavy load
bisque cycle= only one switch turned on at a time wait an hour or so turn on
next switch to low etc till all 3 switches on low , let run like this
overnite so that you wake up to dry pots then start cranking it up as nerves
and common sense vs. your electric bill allows.
Mark Issenberg on thu 10 apr 97
Howdy Everybody: Still jetlagged from NCECA at Lost Wages. Claudia and
I are selling our house. The sign goes up today and I need to get rid of
a bunch of stuff. I've got a Alpine 24 I want to sell, which has high
pressure propane burners and I also have two palettes of hard brick. If
anybody's interested, let me know.
Mark Issenberg
Miami, FL
(305) 232-0278
Tweety6666 on mon 13 oct 97
Can anyone tell me resources available for firing my pottery in the Roch, NY
area?
Arturo M DeVitalis on tue 14 oct 97
Check the Genesee CoopPottery for firing availability.
Mel Jacobson on wed 1 jul 98
one of the wonderful things that happened at nceca was a conversation
with ferez delkic about the affects of salt on itc products.
he felt that it was time to really test his product with out any strings
attached...and he asked me if i was willing to do it at my farm with a
group of potters watching.
of course we rose to the challenge....with potters like kurt wild, dannon
rhudy, doug gray and a dozen others ready to assist us and to witness
this test and to tell the truth no matter what the outcome, we knew
that it would be a great project.
ferez said he would design the kiln, furnish a couple of small modules, and
some itc products, we would provide the brick, metal framing for
the kiln and the door, new stack with liners and of course a new building
to house it. the kiln would be ours to keep after the testing.
it was very important that we all shared in the expense as not to
tarnish the test.
we mounted the kiln floor on a concrete base that was overlayed
by expanded metal and 1/8th inch strap metal...ferez
felt that it was important to have air under the kiln, so we designed
a combination of metal work and concrete to support the floor.
the interior of the kiln was sprayed with 2 walls of
itc 100 and 296 top coat.
the back wall of the kiln was laminated with a piece of one inch kaowool
soaked in itc 100 then sprayed 4 times with 100 and a top coat of
296.........the ceiling module was sprayed with 100 2 coats and a top coat.
same for the door. we used 1/4 inch 4x6 inch steel angle to frame the kiln
and door. the entire kiln was designed as a nils lou flat top...double
venturi of 36 square inches
six strong men lifted the module in place for the roof (it was still wet
and the water weight gave us problems) we are sure that the top is much
lighter now after firing.
the modules were 11 inches thick of kaowool, re/rod, and tied together
with wire. it did not deform or sag in the firings. we sprayed only the
hot faces with itc 100 and 296.
we felt that if the kiln would melt in any place it would be the flame ways
and we were not disappointed...after the 4th firing in four days
we could see the brick melting in a strip about 2 inches high and
10 inches long.
we repaired the melt with a strip of 1/8 inch m board soaked in itc
100 and laminated to the area. this strip did not melt or come off.
more than likely we will laminated the entire flame way.
we used 4 kinds of bricks from both a.p. green and fire brick supply.
both used and new. we will not know for months what bricks hold up the best.
more to follow
mel/mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Mel Jacobson on thu 2 jul 98
we have fired the kiln, as i have stated, 6 times to cone 11....all in a row.
six days straight. the kiln cools rather fast, but as expected.
we did not have a lost pot in the batch...all good, some wonderful pots,
but all good...(as tony c would say, just like beer, all good, some better)
at present inspection we have some deterioration on the sprayed
brick...just a small amount, and only where raw salt has melted in
direct flame.
talked to nils last night for a long time...he is of the opinion that salt
should be sprayed from a garden sprayer in solution...but
we felt we had to just toss it in rock form for the test, and toss it in
hard.
on first glance it looks like the a.p.greene 2300's are holding very
well...the 2600 take a hard beating, and some old b&k 2400 are holding well.
we are of the opinion that some of the older brick, used for a
long time, and made maybe 25 years ago are better than what we are buying
new today. i really hate brick that cracks into multi pieces...and we
have some that have just fallen apart...door bricks, and that is in a
stoneware kiln and the brick is six months old.
the door bricks for my home kiln are about 30 years old and still
strong and unbroken.
a./p greene is touting their new 2300 as probably good for salt, but we
shall see.
we have not done a total cost review yet, but without question we have
built a very costly kiln...this is not a bargain deal...we decided
to go state of the art as much as possible.
if i read him correctly, ferez delcik is not going into the
home module/kiln business...he has done this to test his itc products..
it will be a long time til these kinds of modules will be available for sale.
and they will be costly. nils and i think we are looking at maybe three
times the cost of brick. one of the big blocks is that all home and school
kilns are of such a variety of size....and modules would have
to be custom built...and that really adds to the cost.
i am heading back to the farm for some close inspection and close up
photography.
my web page has a sorta picture of the kiln in the `more pictures`
section. my jpeg is acting up so this is gif and not as clear.
i realize that this is premature, but from information for a normal
salt firing at the farm we are looking at a 50% savings in fuel for the new
kiln. we sprayed all of the kilns with a second coat of itc 100 and top
coat of 296...they all fired faster...even the wood/gas fired kiln.
in the 10 days we fired, we lit off about 20 firings. (one bisque in the
new kiln just to try it.) there was 40 percent gas used in the 500 gallon
propane tank, and 80 percent used in the 250. last year with less firing we
had to have the gas man in to fill the tanks. remember, this is casual
observation, but i do pay the gas bills and have a good idea of
what we have used in the past.
it just makes sense that if we are using the same burners, same gas
pressure, make the kiln 30 percent larger and fire it in half the time...
that is a saving.
just a note to those of you that may be thinking of using itc....
it is not magic, it is just a thermal coating....if you follow the
directions, clean your kiln, wash it, clean it all up....take your time,
think a bit...it will be a cost effective product.....if you spray it over
dusty, dirty brick, over old salt crap and think it will save you....you
are wrong. if you think you are going to have a nirvana kiln by spraying
it, you are wrong.
it you think it will save an old, decaying, crumbling kiln, you are wrong.
when you spray anything, or change anything on a kiln you will have
to relearn how to fire it.....it will change things, even your glazes...but
maybe it will improve things..... potters by nature are a little cheap, we
have seen this theme repeated on the net...many want lots for nothing.....
it just does not work. if you approach your craft with quality,
build quality, make quality, and be quality it pays rich dividends....
it is kind of like going in to a wonderful produce section...look at
blueberries....5 bucks a box..............and say` wow, too expensive`.'
then go out for dinner, have three drinks, spend 80 bucks and not blink.
next time, buy the berries, sit down and eat the whole thing yourself.....
same with pottery tools.....don't cheat yourself, and think you are saving
money.
more later.
mel/mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
mcdonald on thu 2 jul 98
I read Mel's mail on the spraying of itc with interest. I live in Australia
and have a ceramic fibre kiln which I seem to be allergic to. I have to wear
a mask to even walk into the shed that houses it otherwise I have an asthma
attack and when packing or unpacking I have to wear protective clothing as
the fibre gives me a horrid itching rash, Would spraying the fibre walls
with itc protect me from this? And is itc available in Australia and is it
expensive?
Thanks in advance Sheryl in Australia where it is winter and too cold to
want to play in the clay today.
gracie on sat 13 feb 99
I want to take this time to thank all of you who responded to my plea
re:shipping my Skutt 1227 Kiln.... I printed each and everyone of the
suggestions and mailed them to the young person who had the kiln. She in
turn took them to the company who packed it.. It finally arrived 99% intact
yesterday...I want to thank John Tilton who posted it in the first place..
I was about to buy a new one.. but this kiln looks new except for the rust
on the outside and thanks to a thread on Kiln Rust.. i can take care of
that too!!! Now, if i can just get the slabroller here in one piece.....
thanks,, gracie in COLD CAROLINA
Frank Gaydos on sun 25 jun 00
Christine,
I had two crusaders at work along with two L&L and an Olympic Oval.
I would stay away from the Crusaders. They have twice as many elements =
and switches as the others which means twice as much potential to burn =
out. I really disliked them and could not wait till I could replace them =
with L&L's which I love. They also had a habit of going right to high =
early in the firing cycle which would blow up bisque pots. Not good. =
The Olympic also is a real workhorse and highly recommended.
Hope this helps.
Frank Gaydos
510 Gerritt St.
Philadelphia, Pa.
19147-5821 USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~fgaydos/
Kurt Wild on fri 13 oct 00
Storm damage to chimney fixed.
Smelled a gas leak. Tested with soap couldn't find it.
Gas man came. Used a tester found and fixed a very tiny leak.
Kiln loaded.
Candling now & overnight.
First firing since March - pots done as "one eyed Jack".
Am very excited.
Will report on results Sunday or Monday.
Kurt
email: KURT.L.WILD@uwrf.edu
website: http://wwwpp.uwrf.edu/~kw77
Ron Collins on thu 30 aug 01
Hi Lowell.....how much outdoor space do you think I need to fire a small
propane/sawdust kiln? From your description of the firings, they must eject
a lot of sparks out of the top of the kiln....I have a fairly small yard.
Is this kiln worth my considering? I have neighbors....but there are no
codes against buildiing fires in your yard. Melinda
Lyle & Susie Wissmann on sun 6 oct 02
Hi!
We are looking to buy a kiln that the element is burned out. Can you tell
me how expensive elements are, and do they need to be replaced by a
professional.
Thanks!
Susie
Dave Gayman on sun 6 oct 02
Cost is not terrible, $30-60, maybe less - but the cost is kiln-dependent,
because the type of wire and the number of coils per element depends on the
physical and electrical design of the kiln. Find out costs from the
manufacturer of the kiln you want to buy. You might be able to save a few
dollars by going to a discount supplier who carries the kiln, or to a
third-party suppliers of elements.
To change elements, you should be handy with screwdriver, pliers, maybe a
nut driver or wrench, and wire nippers -- and have a bit of time
available. You should also have enough sense to unplug or turn off the
power supply to the kiln. I can remember sweating out my first element
change, and it probably took more than an hour. A few years later (when I
was changing an element every month or so on one or the other of 2
heavily-used kilns) and 5-10 minutes was enough. BE SURE you can still
obtain a manual for the kiln, which should have a section explaining how to
change elements. BE SURE that manual has a wiring diagram and that you can
understand it.
If you let a pro do it, or if you shy away from the task, expect to pay an
hour's ante, around here in the Northeast $80-150, plus the cost of the
element. I myself would be VERY nervous about a kiln that's been
re-elemented by a general electrician, which is the second good reason I
learned to do it myself (the first being the money saved).
Dave
At 05:59 PM 10/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi!
>We are looking to buy a kiln that the element is burned out. Can you tell
>me how expensive elements are, and do they need to be replaced by a
>professional.
>Thanks!
>Susie
Snail Scott on mon 7 oct 02
At 05:59 PM 10/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
>We are looking to buy a kiln that the element is burned out. Can you tell
>me how expensive elements are, and do they need to be replaced by a
>professional.
Depending on the kiln, about $35, and it's not
too tough to do yourself. Element replacement
is an inevitability if you own any kiln long
enough, so even if you 'hold out' for buying
a kiln in perfect working order, you'll still
face this circumstance eventually. With most
kilns, it's a bit of a pain in the ass, but
not technically difficult, and should take
about an hour. (As long as the kiln is not
plugged it, nothing serious can go wrong!)
Save the pro fees for real problems; this is
just routine maintenance; no more arcane
than putting new belts and hoses on your car.
Even if you can afford to pay a professional,
it's worth learning to do yourself, just to
have more control over your options.
Hint - if this kiln has crimp connectors
attaching the elements (just open up the
electrical box to look), it's worth buying
a GOOD set of lineman's pliers - those are
heavy-duty connectors you'll be crimping. If
there are little screw/bolt doohickeys
instead, it'll be even easier - you'll just
need basic tools for those. You might need
some decent wirecutters for both, too.
-Snail
Reno, NV
william schran on tue 8 oct 02
Susie - The cost of the element will be determined by the size and
voltage/amp requirements of the kiln. An approximate cost would be
between $30 - $50. Check http://www.euclids.com , I've gotten good
materials & service from them. I replace all the elements on 5 kilns
at school on a regular cycle. Not all that hard - just make sure it's
unplugged.
Bill
>Hi!
>We are looking to buy a kiln that the element is burned out. Can you tell
>me how expensive elements are, and do they need to be replaced by a
>professional.
>Thanks!
>Susie
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Ellie Blair on fri 4 apr 03
What is the best and least expensive cone 10 test fire kiln. I need =
something to test fire small pieces or tiles.
E. Blair
John Hesselberth on sun 6 apr 03
>
> Hi Ellie,
>
> The best is almost surely not the least expensive. If you want a test
> kiln to provide results you can duplicate in a large kiln you MUST
> control the firing rates--both heating and cooling, but cooling is
> usually more important--to match what you are doing your large kiln.
> To do this well and easily requires a computer controlled test kiln. I
> strongly believe test kilns be purchased with a computer controllers.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
>
> On Friday, April 4, 2003, at 11:09 AM, Ellie Blair wrote:
>
>> What is the best and least expensive cone 10 test fire kiln. I need
>> something to test fire small pieces or tiles.
>> E. Blair
>>
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Jody Rose on thu 19 may 05
Hi Diane,
Christine Caswell told me that you may be interested in the Skutt Electric
Kiln I have. It belonged to my mother's late husband, and was fired only
to glaze about 30 decorative tiles. The inside of the unit is in amazing
condition (looks brand new). The outside is a bit dusty, but also in great
condition. The kiln is at my house Falmouth, Maine. I have several
digital images of the kiln; if you would like I can email them to you. I
am asking $450 for it.
My school number below, but you can also reach me a my home number
207-781-3831 if you have any questions.
Jody Rose
Grade 7 Math
Assistant to the Athletic Director
Freeport Middle School
207-865-6051 ext 216
jody_rose@coconetme.org
sally on sat 18 jun 05
Is there a type of kiln which can be built using industrial arch kiln bricks
used for a lime company? The smallest of the 2 sizes of bricks is 8 x 6 x 4
x 9, and the largest one weighs around 18 lbs. If you connect the bricks
for a half circle, the base is about 9 feet. The kilns were fired to 2500
degrees and are in excellent shape. The type of kiln the bricks came out of
was a circular kiln.
My brother works for a lime company and they are closing down one of the
plants and I thought it was a good idea to get some for practically nothing.
Many of the employees are using the bricks for pavers.
Thanks,
Sally
David Woof on sun 19 jun 05
Sally, gasfire in hardbrick gets expensive. however if you want to
woodfire or team up with others who do, wood fire and hardbrick are a
marriage made in clay heaven, get all you can, while you can of these
bricks. there will be time for kiln plans and designs later. seems a sad
waste to go as pavers when potters are scrounging for bricks.
no doubt clayart fingers are already flying typing out favorite opinions
and designs. just get the bricks. there are a number of good designs that
these bricks could accomodate.
David Woof
peering over the edge, reverently taking an irreverent look at everything.
Hank Murrow on sun 19 jun 05
On Jun 18, 2005, at 4:39 PM, sally wrote:
> Is there a type of kiln which can be built using industrial arch kiln
> bricks
> used for a lime company? The smallest of the 2 sizes of bricks is 8 x
> 6 x 4
> x 9, and the largest one weighs around 18 lbs. If you connect the
> bricks
> for a half circle, the base is about 9 feet. The kilns were fired to
> 2500
> degrees and are in excellent shape. The type of kiln the bricks came
> out of
> was a circular kiln.
>
> My brother works for a lime company and they are closing down one of
> the
> plants and I thought it was a good idea to get some for practically
> nothing.
> Many of the employees are using the bricks for pavers.
Dear Sally;
When I graduated from the U of Oregon in '67, I drove down to La Paz,
Baja California to build a kiln for an art center there. The salvaged
brick we found were from just such a lime kiln in Ensenada. We staked
the on end, alternating the orientation of the thick/thin sides to make
the walls, and used them as arch brick for the arch. The burner system
was a forced draft oil rig also salvaged, and the kiln worked fine.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
sally on fri 24 jun 05
David,
Thanks for the information. I was hoping I made a good choice, however, I
was concerned about their size. The bricks are really heavy compared to the
hard bricks I used for my kiln. Fortunately, the bricks are in excellent
shape-better than the seconds I purchased from a company in Frostburg,
Maryland. Perhaps, building a kiln will be my project for next summer.
I built a MFT gas car kiln a few years ago, however, when I was in college,
I was interested in our anagama kiln. I will wait and see what kind of
designs I am able to find.
Sally
leta troppmann on tue 11 apr 06
i have been looking to purchase a kiln. i found a brand new olympic (S18 i think) with manual kiln sitter/timer for $400. seems like a good deal. any feedback on this kiln would be appreciated
lm
Patrick Green on wed 12 apr 06
Olympic are great!! kilns. I have seen them out last skutt brand big time! as far as a good deal its about 300 bucks lower than it normally goes for, does it come with furniture? another question you should ask yourself is, " how long will a kiln this size do for the work I am doing, will I need to buy another, larger one on two months? Or do I plan on moving into firing types other than oxidation?" Basically "will this kiln work for me for an extended period of time" thats what needs to be answered. And if it will and the price is good I would jump on it!
--Patrick
leta troppmann wrote:i have been looking to purchase a kiln. i found a brand new olympic (S18 i think) with manual kiln sitter/timer for $400. seems like a good deal. any feedback on this kiln would be appreciated
lm
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Sabina on mon 26 mar 07
Hi all,
Have a problem with my cone art kiln. It does not firbeyond 1412FAt aout
1000 F the ramp rate starts dropping so by the time it reaches 140 it is
down to 60 F!I have changed th elements ,have git all the electrical
connections checked,the cone 6 programme checked....can't seem to figure
out.
Any suggestions would be helpful
Sabina
Arnold Howard on mon 26 mar 07
From: "Sabina"
> Have a problem with my cone art kiln. It does not
> firbeyond 1412FAt aout
> 1000 F the ramp rate starts dropping so by the time it
> reaches 140 it is
> down to 60 F!I have changed th elements ,have git all the
> electrical
> connections checked,the cone 6 programme checked....
Are all the elements firing?
If so, the new elements may be the wrong ones for your kiln.
Perhaps they are designed for a different voltage than what
you have.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Sabina on mon 26 mar 07
No the elements are fine. Tuckers in TO saw to that.
Thanks anyways
Sabina
On 3/26/07, Arnold Howard wrote:
>
> From: "Sabina"
> > Have a problem with my cone art kiln. It does not
> > firbeyond 1412FAt aout
> > 1000 F the ramp rate starts dropping so by the time it
> > reaches 140 it is
> > down to 60 F!I have changed th elements ,have git all the
> > electrical
> > connections checked,the cone 6 programme checked....
>
> Are all the elements firing?
>
> If so, the new elements may be the wrong ones for your kiln.
> Perhaps they are designed for a different voltage than what
> you have.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Arnold Howard on mon 26 mar 07
From: "Sabina"
> No the elements are fine.
An ammeter test will show the number of amps that the kiln
is pulling. Compare that number with the catalog rating for
your kiln. If the amperage is low, an element or relay may
be burned out.
If amperage is low, check the voltage under load. Low
voltage results in low amperage.
An ammeter test for each relay (or switch) in your kiln will
show which element or relay is not turning on.
You may also have loose element connectors.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
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