tinam on sun 21 jul 96
Hi everyone. I really need some guidance. I have been studying ceramics
for the past four years. The past two have been at the local university
through an independent study situation. I learned to fire on updraft
kilns to cone 10 reduction/oxidation. My preferences tend toward the
reduction glazes. I have recently bought a home and can finally consider
building my own kiln. I bought a copy of Olsen's The Kiln Book. I have
found this to be a great reference for refractories and different kiln
types, but it has not helped me to design a kiln that will meet my needs.
I am primarily a hobby potter and tend to fire glaze firing every couple
of weeks. I have been looking of The Art of Firing which sound like a
good resource for some of the comments that I have read about Nils.
I realize that this whole question sounds fragmented, but that's the way
I feel about the process. I have no idea where to find a good design.
My conpainion has suggested that we find a kiln that fires well and copy
it, but it seems that I should know more about what I doing and it will
reduce problems in the long run. ANY advice or direction will be greatly
apreciated.
TIA
Tina Morris
Shrope/Ratcliffe on mon 22 jul 96
Tia,
Designing and building a kiln is one of the most rewarding experiences
you'll ever have (second only to having kids!). Olsen's Kiln Book and
Rhodes: Kilns, are great books to start with. Couple them with Leaches
The Potters Book and you're off and running.(they're the only books I've
ever used) Trust your knowledge and learned instinct, and remember that
the fire will get the best of you if you let it!
If you're interested in my kiln experience point your browser to
http://www.charm.net/~pssr/ceramic3.htm
Regards,
Peter
Marcia Selsor on mon 22 jul 96
Dear Tina,
My favorite little book on kilns is Soldner's 1968. Out of print BUT the
best advice I can give you in designing your kiln is to design it for your body.
best advice I can give you in designing your kiln is to design it for your body.
and combustion space and plan a cube using the combined dimensions. Plan the
floor to be at a good height for loading. And most important put a hinged door
or rollable door on it to save your wrists. I use insblok and fiberfax for the
door material. seal with rigidizer to avoid nasty dust. You can contact me
at http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls, homepage mjbmls@imt.net mail address.
Good luck. Kilns should be designed for the user. That is the whole
point about designing your own. Don't forget to design the size most efficient
for your rate of production, i.e. two columns or three columns of shelves.
Marcia in Montana
Nan Rothwell on mon 22 jul 96
I think your idea of finding a kiln you like the look of and copying it
sounds good. Things to consider include not only how often your fire now,
but how much faster and bigger you'll be able to throw with more practice.
I've noticed that people's first kilns often seem too small rather quickly.
(My own first kiln was a 28 cubic foot salt kiln and I'd outgrown it long
before I moved on from it.)
Things to consider when scouting out other people's kilns are how heavy are
the shelves and how awkward are they to haul in and out. I'd use bigger
shelves than I do now (14''x22"), because it would be nice to be able to fire
more large platters and bowls, except I'd never be able to heft anything
larger around...
Have you considered shopping around for a used commercial gas kiln? I've
known a number of people happy with their Geil and/or Bailey kilns. They're
awfully pricey when new, but sometimes come on the market used at enought of
a discount to be comparable to what you'd spend assembling the materials to
build a new kiln.
Good luck with the process!
Nan R
| |
|
