John Baisch on fri 2 may 97
I have been offered first purchase opportunity
on a kiln at our local college. The problem is
the kiln was made from scratch and has never been fired.
The inside dimensions are 24wx24dby25h all k28 soft brick except
for the door which has 4" 8lb fiber. The kiln is Gas
fired - 4 burners total, two on each side wall and
the flue is downdraft. The outter side and back walls are
metal over brick with a sheet metal /fiber insulated brick arch.
Does anyone have any idea what I should offer? The
professor started with a $800 starting point. I can accept
the offer or go down.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
JB
Charlotte Green on sat 3 may 97
Last year I bought a twelve year old gas kiln for $1,000 and spent 200 more
to have it moved to my workshop. The description of yours matches mine
except for the height. (Mine's 36) I'd say 800 is pretty good considering
that the same kiln would cost you nearly 4000 if purchased from a supplyer.
Offer 650 considering you have to move it. Pretty good deal especially for
a kiln with burners on the side. Bottom burners are a pain to adjust. Good
luck. Char
Kevin P. O'Hara on sun 4 may 97
Hi JB,
If you have $800 to $1000 to spend, I would consider building your own. You
will get a lot more for your money. I receintly designed a 36 cubic foot
kiln and the total cost is between $800 and $1000 - - shelves included. All
I need now is $1000.00
KPO
mudslinger@iquest.net
At 07:07 AM 5/2/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>I have been offered first purchase opportunity
>on a kiln at our local college. The problem is
>the kiln was made from scratch and has never been fired.
>
>The inside dimensions are 24wx24dby25h all k28 soft brick except
>for the door which has 4" 8lb fiber. The kiln is Gas
>fired - 4 burners total, two on each side wall and
>the flue is downdraft. The outter side and back walls are
>metal over brick with a sheet metal /fiber insulated brick arch.
>
>Does anyone have any idea what I should offer? The
>professor started with a $800 starting point. I can accept
>the offer or go down.
>
>Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>JB
>
>
David Hendley on mon 5 may 97
At 10:47 AM 5/4/97 EDT, you wrote:
>If you have $800 to $1000 to spend, I would consider building your own. You
>will get a lot more for your money. I receintly designed a 36 cubic foot
>kiln and the total cost is between $800 and $1000 - - shelves included. All
>I need now is $1000.00
>KPO
Kevin -Please tell me where you buy your materials. Are you anywhere close
to me (East Texas)? The last I looked kiln shelves were at least $30 each.
That's $600 for 20. I recently bought some IFBs from A.P. Green at at
approx. $2.25 each for 23s and over $3.00 each for 26s! And that is the
"pallet" price for buying 18 boxes or more. Back in the "good 'ole days"
(the 70's) I could usually find some kind of "deal" when I needed
refractories, but those days, around here anyway, are long gone.
Does anyone else have any tips or suggestions for finding bargains in kiln
building materials?
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
Kevin P. O'Hara on tue 6 may 97
I priced shelves at around $27.00, they were not silcan carbide. But, the
materials to build the kiln is another matter.
I found hard brick priced at $.85 a piece at a local construction / brick
supply house. Another local building products company gave me a price of
about $35.00 for about 40 sq ft of fire-safing. it comes in 2'x4'x4" sheets
and is rated at 2000 degrees. A local refrectory service co. gave me a
price of $1.55 sf. for 8 lb fiber blanket [50 sq ft].
$257.50 Fire brick, delivery and extras
$077.50 Fiber Blanket
$035.00 Fire-safing
$065.00 Fire Grate
$435.00 Total Bulk material cost to build kiln
I have the materials to build the frame for the kiln so the only other thing
I would need is nicrome wire to thread the ceramic buttons to hold the fiber
to the fire-safing and kiln frame. Since I will be using either a low sulfur
coal or coke to fire, I do not need burners. The shleves will cost more
than the kiln, but for a kiln that is between 36 and 40 cubic feet -- you
can't beat it. Like I said, all I need now is about $800 - $1000. :s
Kevin P. O'Hara
Mudslinger Pottery
mudslinger@iquest.net
http://www.iquest.net/~mudslinger
At 09:05 AM 5/5/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>At 10:47 AM 5/4/97 EDT, you wrote:
>
>>If you have $800 to $1000 to spend, I would consider building your own. You
>>will get a lot more for your money. I receintly designed a 36 cubic foot
>>kiln and the total cost is between $800 and $1000 - - shelves included. All
>>I need now is $1000.00
>>KPO
>
>Kevin -Please tell me where you buy your materials. Are you anywhere close
>to me (East Texas)? The last I looked kiln shelves were at least $30 each.
>That's $600 for 20. I recently bought some IFBs from A.P. Green at at
>approx. $2.25 each for 23s and over $3.00 each for 26s! And that is the
>"pallet" price for buying 18 boxes or more. Back in the "good 'ole days"
>(the 70's) I could usually find some kind of "deal" when I needed
>refractories, but those days, around here anyway, are long gone.
>Does anyone else have any tips or suggestions for finding bargains in kiln
>building materials?
>David Hendley
>Maydelle, Texas
>
>
Sylvia See on wed 7 may 97
Wow!!!!
You are in the right spot at the right time. I can't believe these prices.
Steal the 1000.00 dollars, haa haa.
I started with a 5.25 quote per brick (high fire soft) down to over 3.00
from a brick manufacturer for a large shipment. Fiberfax running 5.75 a
foot, 2ft wide and certainly not 8 lb. It just cost me 4.25 A BAG for the
freight alone, to ship my fireclay to make my own bricks.
Ahh well. The powers that be see that we are all alotted something
special. Some are alotted money, others time. Back to work making bricks.
Sylvia See
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I priced shelves at around $27.00, they were not silcan carbide. But, the
> materials to build the kiln is another matter.
> I found hard brick priced at $.85 a piece at a local construction / brick
> supply house. Another local building products company gave me a price of
> about $35.00 for about 40 sq ft of fire-safing. it comes in 2'x4'x4"
sheets
> and is rated at 2000 degrees. A local refrectory service co. gave me a
> price of $1.55 sf. for 8 lb fiber blanket [50 sq ft].
>
> $257.50 Fire brick, delivery and extras
> $077.50 Fiber Blanket
> $035.00 Fire-safing
> $065.00 Fire Grate
> $435.00 Total Bulk material cost to build kiln
>
> I have the materials to build the frame for the kiln so the only other
thing
> I would need is nicrome wire to thread the ceramic buttons to hold the
fiber
> to the fire-safing and kiln frame. Since I will be using either a low
sulfur
> coal or coke to fire, I do not need burners. The shleves will cost more
> than the kiln, but for a kiln that is between 36 and 40 cubic feet -- you
> can't beat it. Like I said, all I need now is about $800 - $1000. :s
>
> Kevin P. O'Hara
> Mudslinger Pottery
> mudslinger@iquest.net
> http://www.iquest.net/~mudslinger
>
> At 09:05 AM 5/5/97 EDT, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> >Kevin -Please tell me where you buy your materials. Are you anywhere
close
> >to me (East Texas)? The last I looked kiln shelves were at least $30
each.
> >That's $600 for 20. I recently bought some IFBs from A.P. Green at at
> >approx. $2.25 each for 23s and over $3.00 each for 26s! And that is the
> >"pallet" price for buying 18 boxes or more. Back in the "good 'ole days"
> >(the 70's) I could usually find some kind of "deal" when I needed
> >refractories, but those days, around here anyway, are long gone.
> >Does anyone else have any tips or suggestions for finding bargains in
kiln
> >building materials?
> >David Hendley
> >Maydelle, Texas
> >
> >
David Hendley on wed 7 may 97
At 08:24 AM 5/6/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Another local building products company gave me a price of
>about $35.00 for about 40 sq ft of fire-safing. it comes in 2'x4'x4" sheets
>and is rated at 2000 degrees.
Hi Kevin - Thanks for the post. I've never heard of fire-safing. What's its
main use, fire block in a wall? Less than a dollar a sq. ft. for 4" thick
material is really cheap! Is it fragile or suitable for the outside of a
kiln with no other covering to protect it?
My previous kiln was lined with fiber on the interior, attatched with
homemade buttons and it was a real pain because tiny pieces of the blanket
would come loose and land on pots (not to mention in MY LUNGS, in
hindsight). Judging from the recent information I've been reading about the
ITC coatings, I think it would be well worth it to seal the blanket if you
use it.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
McCoy, Jack Eugene on thu 8 may 97
Are you really making bricks or are you just making a joke? If you're
making them, will you summarize your methods/materials? I, like many
part-time potters, am investigating how to trade my time for saving
money on a new kiln.
Thanks,
Jack
> ----------
> From: Sylvia See[SMTP:sylviac@telusplanet.net]
> Reply To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 1997 8:21 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
> Subject: Re: Kiln Help
>
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Wow!!!!
> You are in the right spot at the right time. I can't believe these
> prices.
> Steal the 1000.00 dollars, haa haa.
> I started with a 5.25 quote per brick (high fire soft) down to over
> 3.00
> from a brick manufacturer for a large shipment. Fiberfax running 5.75
> a
> foot, 2ft wide and certainly not 8 lb. It just cost me 4.25 A BAG for
> the
> freight alone, to ship my fireclay to make my own bricks.
> Ahh well. The powers that be see that we are all alotted
> something
> special. Some are alotted money, others time. Back to work making
> bricks.
> Sylvia See
>
Chris Trabka on thu 8 may 97
Kevin P. O'Hara wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I priced shelves at around $27.00, they were not silcan carbide. But, the
> materials to build the kiln is another matter.
> I found hard brick priced at $.85 a piece at a local construction / brick
> supply house. Another local building products company gave me a price of
> about $35.00 for about 40 sq ft of fire-safing. it comes in 2'x4'x4" sheets
> and is rated at 2000 degrees. A local refrectory service co. gave me a
> price of $1.55 sf. for 8 lb fiber blanket [50 sq ft].
>
> $257.50 Fire brick, delivery and extras
> $077.50 Fiber Blanket
> $035.00 Fire-safing
> $065.00 Fire Grate
> $435.00 Total Bulk material cost to build kiln
>
> I have the materials to build the frame for the kiln so the only other thing
> I would need is nicrome wire to thread the ceramic buttons to hold the fiber
> to the fire-safing and kiln frame. Since I will be using either a low sulfur
> coal or coke to fire, I do not need burners. The shleves will cost more
> than the kiln, but for a kiln that is between 36 and 40 cubic feet -- you
> can't beat it. Like I said, all I need now is about $800 - $1000. :s
>
> Kevin P. O'Hara
> Mudslinger Pottery
> mudslinger@iquest.net
> http://www.iquest.net/~mudslinger
>
> At 09:05 AM 5/5/97 EDT, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> >At 10:47 AM 5/4/97 EDT, you wrote:
> >
> >>If you have $800 to $1000 to spend, I would consider building your own. You
> >>will get a lot more for your money. I receintly designed a 36 cubic foot
> >>kiln and the total cost is between $800 and $1000 - - shelves included. All
> >>I need now is $1000.00
> >>KPO
> >
> >Kevin -Please tell me where you buy your materials. Are you anywhere close
> >to me (East Texas)? The last I looked kiln shelves were at least $30 each.
> >That's $600 for 20. I recently bought some IFBs from A.P. Green at at
> >approx. $2.25 each for 23s and over $3.00 each for 26s! And that is the
> >"pallet" price for buying 18 boxes or more. Back in the "good 'ole days"
> >(the 70's) I could usually find some kind of "deal" when I needed
> >refractories, but those days, around here anyway, are long gone.
> >Does anyone else have any tips or suggestions for finding bargains in kiln
> >building materials?
> >David Hendley
> >Maydelle, Texas
> >
> >
Although the cost of insulated fire brick (IFB) may be more they (IFB)
may reduce the cost of firing by half. Try to calculate the cost of
firing (for my old kiln, 12 cubic foot stacking using IFB, cone 10
$25.00). If the kiln had been hard fire brick the cost could have been
as high as $75.00 for a single firing.
Chris
Kevin P. O'Hara on sat 10 may 97
I heard about firesafing / mineral-wool-block in a book called "Kiln
building with space age materials" (I am not sure of the exact title). I
have not purchased it yet but I think it has the texture and wirght of that
foam stuff that florist's use to make flower arrangments. The plans in the
book used sheet metal for the outer skin. That will certainly protect it
but I have some large metal shelves that I plan on using.
Yes, it is used as a fire wall barrier inside the wall, between 2 sheets of
fire resistant wall board.
At 08:38 AM 5/7/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>At 08:24 AM 5/6/97 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Another local building products company gave me a price of
>>about $35.00 for about 40 sq ft of fire-safing. it comes in 2'x4'x4" sheets
>>and is rated at 2000 degrees.
>
>Hi Kevin - Thanks for the post. I've never heard of fire-safing. What's its
>main use, fire block in a wall? Less than a dollar a sq. ft. for 4" thick
>material is really cheap! Is it fragile or suitable for the outside of a
>kiln with no other covering to protect it?
>
>My previous kiln was lined with fiber on the interior, attatched with
>homemade buttons and it was a real pain because tiny pieces of the blanket
>would come loose and land on pots (not to mention in MY LUNGS, in
>hindsight). Judging from the recent information I've been reading about the
>ITC coatings, I think it would be well worth it to seal the blanket if you
>use it.
>
>David Hendley
>Maydelle, Texas
>
>
John Boyd on thu 26 jul 01
Dear Potters,
Can anyone provide a rough estimate of how many
gallons/litres of propane I need for a gas firing in an Olympic updraft
kiln? The kiln is @ 7-8 cubic feet inside, has five burners and rated to
25,000 btu. I estimate 12 hours firing time for cone 10 reduction because
this kiln has never before been fired. Any help would be appreciated.
Sincerely,
John C. Boyd
_________________________________________________________________
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Rebecca Knight on mon 17 sep 01
I’m plagued by indecision and need some facts and opinions.
I’m buying an electric kiln. I’ve been trying for months to come to a
decision about which make electric kiln it should be. Skutt? Bailey? Axner?
ConeArt? Something else altogether? I’ve searched the archives, read the
literature, explored web sites and I still cannot decide. What I did
decide, though, is that I need more information. I am, therefore,
soliciting that information from you. Please give me something for my
pro/con columns before I make myself crazy(er)! What can you tell me about
some of these kilns? For instance, lid hinges don’t last or they last
forever on xx kiln; elements fall out or they’re in so tight they have to
be pried out; 3 inch thick bricks on the sides really don’t do a whole lot
or they even out the firing and shorten firing time; brand xx has wonderful
customer service or it’s nonexistent; element in the floor is an asset or it
gets in the way and groove gets clogged. You see what I’m getting at? If I
just had a little more info, I could finally say “OK, I’m buying this one.”
And I promise not to hold anyone responsible for my decision. I realize
that no two kilns will be the same.
Please email me offline, if you like, and thanks a bunch for whatever
opinions or facts you care to share.
Rebecca
rjknight109@hotmail.com
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John Hesselberth on mon 17 sep 01
on 9/17/01 1:40 PM, Rebecca Knight at rjknight109@HOTMAIL.COM wrote:
> I=92m plagued by indecision and need some facts and opinions.
>=20
> I=92m buying an electric kiln. I=92ve been trying for months to come to a
> decision about which make electric kiln it should be. Skutt? Bailey? Axn=
er?
> ConeArt? Something else altogether?
Hi Rebecca,
The truth is all of the kilns you mentioned are high quality and will serve
you well. One company you didn't mention is L&L. They are the only compan=
y
with ceramic element holders and I wouldn't have any other brand for that
single reason. Look at any of the others that is more than a few years old
and you will find broken brick around the element slots. Some get so bad
the elements are drooping down into the kiln--it becomes almost impossible
to keep them in their grooves even with frequent use of pins. L&L solves
that problem with their element holders--no pins required.
Bailey and L&L have, in my opinion, the best designed kiln exhaust system
for reasons you can find several places in the archives.
Axner is the only one providing ITC coated elements if you want that. I
have personally had bad experience with ITC coating of my elements; however
others will tell you it is great. Anyhow if you want it, Axner is your only
choice.
Be sure to think about wall thickness. Most are 2 1/2 inches which provide=
s
a poor level of insulation. 3 inches is somewhat better, but still has to
be considered marginal. I think some are offering an additional layer on
top of that now, but I don't know who.
For the most part any of the manufacturers will provide computer controls
and kiln sitters if you want them. The computer control systems may have
different name plates on them, but they are mostly the same technology made
by the same outfit.
Think about service and parts availability. Are you buying from a dealer
that will help you solve problems? Are they close by or half way across the
country.
If all this just confuses you more, flip and coin and go for it.
Regards,
John
Web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com Email: john@frogpondpottery.com
"The life so short, the craft so long to learn." Chaucer's translation of
Hippocrates, 5th cent. B.C.
Nancy Guido on tue 18 sep 01
I have an Evenheat kiln which is built here in Michigan. I love my kiln, I
know my kiln. It fires very evenly (as the name implies). However, the only
thing I would do differently is buy a kiln that breaks apart in segments
making it easier to move or get into. I might think about a kiln that is
wider, rather than deeper. Mine is 29" deep and on its stand much higher. I
am pretty much off the ground and on my head when I replace the elements at
the bottom. I have used the Skutt kilns, Coneart kilns, and I have seen the
L&L kilns (interiors are beautiful). The Skutt kiln is easy to service. I
have done all of the repairs so far on my Evenheat (well, my husband replaced
the power cord and the receptacle after the lightning strike), but I've done
all the kiln maintenance stuff. So, those are just things to think about. I
can't suggest one brand is better than the other.
Nancy G.
Maid O'Mud on tue 18 sep 01
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hesselberth"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kiln help
>
> Axner is the only one providing ITC coated elements if you want that. I
> have personally had bad experience with ITC coating of my elements;
however
> others will tell you it is great. Anyhow if you want it, Axner is your
only
> choice.
>
Just my $0.02. When I asked Tuckers to ITC coat new wires for my old kiln,
they did. I ordered 2 extra wires (just in case). They are in a bag,
gathering dust as the ITC coated wires work like a charm! I'd check with
Tuckers, too; they work well with customer (oddball ;-) requests.
Valerie Johnson on tue 18 sep 01
In a message dated 9/17/01 9:09:05 PM Central Daylight Time,=20
rjknight109@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
> I=E2=80=99m buying an electric kiln. I=E2=80=99ve been trying for months=20=
to come to a
> decision about which make electric kiln it should be. Skutt? Bailey? Axne=
r?
> ConeArt? Something else altogether? =20
I recently purchased an automatic Skutt 818. After it came, and I spent week=
s=20
waiting for the electrician to wire for it, we plugged it in and there was=20
nothing. Unplugged, plugged again and nothing. Took off the controller &=20
checked connections & nothing. Called Skutt (Perry) who suggested I take of=
f=20
the computer board & check connections, and in the meantime, he would build=20
me another controller. I took off the computer board several times & plugge=
d=20
it back in & still nothing. The last time I rattled the connections (becaus=
e=20
I refused to believe that it wouldn't work), I dropped it and lo and behold,=
=20
the digital readout worked! In the meantime, the new controller arrived in=20
with a no charge packing slip. I LOVE those people. although it was=20
frustrating, Perry made sure I was up & running as soon as possible. I woul=
d=20
buy again, based on this service.
Valerie Johnson
Eads, TN=20
Hendrix, Taylor J. on tue 11 jun 02
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Marcia Selsor on wed 12 jun 02
Dear Taylor,
Sounds like a deal to me. Check the grooves for glaze drops but if it is
clean sounds like a deal. Shelves and furniture should cost too much for
that size kiln. Great starter.
Marcia
"Hendrix, Taylor J." wrote:
>=20
> Hello list:
>=20
> I need some advice. I have come across a used Duncan kiln for sale at
> $325, and I don't know if that is a good deal or not. The information
> plate calls it a ceramic kiln. The model number is DK820X-2. It's a
> 24A/240V, cone 8 kiln (2345F). It is about 3 cu ft (not so sure about
> that volume, but it is about 3 feet high including its feet). The bric=
k
> and lid are in great shape--no cracks or chips. It has a cone sitter
> and manual controls w/timer I believe. Only one kiln shelf, so no
> furniture to speak of.
>=20
> Does anyone have any experience with Duncan kilns, and does $325 sound
> like a good price?
>=20
> I would love to get my hands on an affordable kiln. I need the fire! =
I
> need to pot!!
>=20
> Taylor
> =FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=
=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=
=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=FF=F4**=DAh2=D8=A7=82=CBhrV2j=BB=FF=96=CB=FFq=EA=
=DAs',=FES=E0b=D0|k)h=A2F=96=B6=17s=96=C8b*=EB=1F=A2=BBazX=AC=B6S=DC=85=A9=
=E0{*.=AE=CB=F0=B1=CA=E2|=D8=A8*=C7=96=B6)=E0=B1=FA=E8s=1Bm=A7=FF=FF=C3=FF=
q=EA=DAs',=FES=E0=FD=C9Z=C9=AA=ED=FC=CA=1Dz=B6=96=A2=BA=1F=B6=17=A5S=CBb=B0=
=C7=A5%=A7(n=CA'=C2=1A&k&=DE=96=E6=9C=85=E7Z=B6g=A5|=D0l=FE=97%Sy=FFr=89=FF
--=20
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2002.html
Roger Korn on wed 12 jun 02
Sounds like a great deal to me. It's not a big kiln, but comparable
stuff starts at about $750 new, and even if you need to replace
elements, you're in good shape. I fire this kiln (a much more beat-up
version) three times a week at Camp Verde Parks and Recreation and
maintenance has been almost zero.
Hope this helps,
Roger
Hendrix, Taylor J. wrote:
>Hello list:
>
>I need some advice. I have come across a used Duncan kiln for sale at
>$325, and I don't know if that is a good deal or not. The information
>plate calls it a ceramic kiln. The model number is DK820X-2. It's a
>24A/240V, cone 8 kiln (2345F). It is about 3 cu ft (not so sure about
>that volume, but it is about 3 feet high including its feet). The brick
>and lid are in great shape--no cracks or chips. It has a cone sitter
>and manual controls w/timer I believe. Only one kiln shelf, so no
>furniture to speak of.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with Duncan kilns, and does $325 sound
>like a good price?
>
>I would love to get my hands on an affordable kiln. I need the fire! I
>need to pot!!
>
>Taylor
>I-x,%k&[/q', Z(m z+-!jx Ê‹r*'x,~&jhɪz Ç¥%(n&k&Þ朅glG(m===
>
--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
31330 NW Pacific Ave.
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
Orchard Valley Ceramics Arts Guild on wed 12 jun 02
I used a small Duncan kiln, 2.6 cubic feet, for several years. (I just
converted it to a propane-fired raku kiln.)
$325 seems like a reasonable price, if the kiln is in good shape. Ask
the seller how many firings are on the elements. Inspect the elements
carefully for signs of damage, Ask to see firing logs, if they exist. Ask
to observe a complete firing cycle.
One potential problem: Duncan no longer makes these kilns, and
you might not be able to get parts. When a controller relay went
out on mine, I had a heck of a time finding a suitable replacement.
By the way, if you need to have a circuit put in for your kiln, here
a suggestion. Ask the electrician to put in a wiring run that will
handle a 50-amp circuit. That way, if you "outgrow" the kiln and
moved to a bigger one, you can just replace the breaker.
Good luck.
Bob
>Hello list:
>
>I need some advice. I have come across a used Duncan kiln for sale at
>$325, and I don't know if that is a good deal or not. The information
>plate calls it a ceramic kiln. The model number is DK820X-2. It's a
>24A/240V, cone 8 kiln (2345F). It is about 3 cu ft (not so sure about
>that volume, but it is about 3 feet high including its feet). The brick
>and lid are in great shape--no cracks or chips. It has a cone sitter
>and manual controls w/timer I believe. Only one kiln shelf, so no
>furniture to speak of.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with Duncan kilns, and does $325 sound
>like a good price?
>
>I would love to get my hands on an affordable kiln. I need the fire! I
>need to pot!!
>
>Taylor
Snail Scott on wed 12 jun 02
At 08:38 PM 6/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>...I have come across a used Duncan kiln for sale at
>$325...It is about 3 cu ft (not so sure about
>that volume, but it is about 3 feet high including its feet). The brick
>and lid are in great shape...It has a cone sitter
>and manual controls w/timer I believe...
If it's really only 3 cubic feet, that's tiny!
The easiest way to describe the size of an electric kiln
is to count the sides and elements. Since firebrick
is always one size, bigger kilns just have more sides.
8-sided is the smallest that's worth considering, IMHO,
unless you make porcelain dolls or some such. 10-sided
is the most common. 12-sided is the largest 'standard'
model, and much less common. Most larger kilns are 6
elements high (two doubled elements per ring). Some
smaller kilns are only 4 elements high. Some kilns have
an added 'blank' ring without elements, which is used
to increase bisque capacity. A 10-sided kiln with 6
elements is the most common, but typically would draw
closer to 45-50 amps, so yours is probably smaller than
that. An 8-sider with four elements, maybe? (I don't
know Duncan's model-numbering system.)
Duncan isn't the best kiln around - it's sometimes
referred to as 'hobby grade', but it's not bad, either.
I know of Duncan kilns that have been in service for
30 years. Electric kilns are basically simple things,
and there's not much that can go wrong that's hard to
fix. Mostly just worn-out elements. If you have to
replace the original Duncan elements, I might go with
heavier-duty ones next time, but the current set may
have many years in them yet. You can check that by
turning it on 'high' for about 15 minutes, and seeing
if they turn red evenly, or if there are large black
patches that aren't heating.
Price is a very locally-variable thing, but if the
condition is as good as you say, and it's not smaller
than an 8-sided, 4-element type, it's a pretty good
deal. Even if you find a bigger kiln later, having
a small one can be handy for testing and quick
turnaround on rush jobs.
-Snail
Cindi Anderson on wed 12 jun 02
Paragon sells Duncan parts.
Cindi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Orchard Valley Ceramics Arts Guild"
> One potential problem: Duncan no longer makes these kilns, and
> you might not be able to get parts. When a controller relay went
> out on mine, I had a heck of a time finding a suitable replacement.
Dan Dermer on thu 13 jun 02
This is a nice starter kiln. I bought the same model, a used Duncan =
(DK820), about six years ago in order to learn how to fire kilns and =
work from home, in c6 oxidation. Very reliable and easy to use.=20
The only drawback was size. At approximately 18" wide and 22" deep, you =
won't be able to fire many larger pieces at the same time. It's =
somewhat space-inefficient for firing larger functional items, like =
serving bowls, casseroles, and platters. I once made the mistake of =
throwing 5 platters that would exactly fit the octagonal kiln shelves, =
only to realize later that during firing there would be no space for =
kiln posts to hold up the shelves! (oops) I ended up firing one =
platter on each of the next 5 glaze firings on the top shelf. :-) On =
the positive side, it doesn't take very long to make enough ware to fill =
the kiln. =20
To maxmize space, I settled into a rhythm of making 6-8 smaller items =
(mugs, etc.) for the lowest shelf, a low-wide dish for a middle shelf, =
and usually 4 taller/narrower pieces for the top shelf.=20
When selecting a kiln, you should consider what you want to make and how =
well those items will fit into the kiln. You might also consider =
purchasing a kiln that is slighly larger than your current needs, since =
you will likely grow into using the additional space.
Last year, I had a great time converting a Duncan DK-820 to a =
combination gas/electric kiln. You can see pictures of this on my web =
site.
Cheers,
Dan
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/ddermer
mel jacobson on wed 26 feb 03
>From: Psfarish@aol.com
>Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:49:17 EST
>Subject: (no subject)
>To: melpots@pclink.com
>X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 234
>X-Spam-Rating: 0.0000000000%
>
>I have inherited a kiln, which has no operating information of any kind
>with it. Can you tell me where I can locate a manual, or otherwise find
>instruction for the setup and use ot it? It has several names and numbers
>affixed to it: Jenkin, model number D-118, on the sticker on the
>bottom. The metal plate has "Sitter Kiln", with the model number MFR-T;
>manufactured by W. P. Dawson Inc. in Fullerton CA.
>
>I hope you can help.
>
>Frances Farish
>
>
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