Mel Jacobson on fri 18 jul 97
you can use re-bar, 3000 mix, do everything correct..and most people build
them with a slope...jeeeez and the kiln tilts...
BUILD THE THING FLAT...REAL FLAT...NOT ALMOST FLAT.
LEVEL....REAL LEVEL.....REALLY LEVEL...
gravel, rebar, tampers..nice...but if it is not level you are screwed.
mel
Richard Gralnik on tue 22 jul 97
Or you will spend an extra day in the welding shop cutting holes in the
bottom of the frame and welding on huge (1") nuts over the holes to
hold huge bolts that will act as levellers (and you will spend about $30
for the hardware). Oh, and you'll cut a bunch of 2"x2" sheet metal squares
to go under the bolts so they don't grind into the cement.
Or you will cut sheet metal shims and hope the kiln is level and stable
when you're done trying to slide the shims underneath the frame
Richard
who thought his pad was level, and now speaks with the voice of experience
At 06:11 PM 7/18/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> you can use re-bar, 3000 mix, do everything correct..and most
people build
>them with a slope...jeeeez and the kiln tilts...
>BUILD THE THING FLAT...REAL FLAT...NOT ALMOST FLAT.
>LEVEL....REAL LEVEL.....REALLY LEVEL...
>gravel, rebar, tampers..nice...but if it is not level you are screwed.
>mel
>
>
Talbott on wed 23 jul 97
Get your pad poured level and then when you lay your concrete blocks as the
base for the kiln you can get those blocks level by using mortar and block
shards for shims if need be... a kiln should be level but you are not
building a rocket ship.. you are building a really big oven.. so don't
sweat the load... Just make sure that you plan your work and get Nil's
Lou's book "The Art of Firing" ... has great kiln designs... we
constructed an arched roof vs a flat top roof... and don't sweat the
load... just do it...
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Or you will spend an extra day in the welding shop cutting holes in the
>bottom of the frame and welding on huge (1") nuts over the holes to
>hold huge bolts that will act as levellers (and you will spend about $30
>for the hardware). Oh, and you'll cut a bunch of 2"x2" sheet metal squares
>to go under the bolts so they don't grind into the cement.
>
>Or you will cut sheet metal shims and hope the kiln is level and stable
>when you're done trying to slide the shims underneath the frame
>
>Richard
>who thought his pad was level, and now speaks with the voice of experience
>
>
>At 06:11 PM 7/18/97 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> you can use re-bar, 3000 mix, do everything correct..and most
>people build
>>them with a slope...jeeeez and the kiln tilts...
>>BUILD THE THING FLAT...REAL FLAT...NOT ALMOST FLAT.
>>LEVEL....REAL LEVEL.....REALLY LEVEL...
>>gravel, rebar, tampers..nice...but if it is not level you are screwed.
>>mel
>>
>>
1ST ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1997)
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
WBS Live Chat Room, Sat Nites 10 PM EDT, Private Room: Clayarters
E-MAIL: clupus@ime.net
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