Derek Johnson on tue 3 jun 97
I have a line on a very used Norman electric kiln (model N-7, phase 1,
220v, 150amp), but have been unable to find any information on Norman
and/or the kiln -- in order to make an intelligent offer on the kiln.
Has anyone heard of Norman (out of NY)?
Any help would be appreciated.
DeDe
Debby Grant on wed 4 jun 97
Norman Kiln Co. has been out of business for many years but they made
excellent kilns. I don't know what this particular model is like but you
should not have to pay very much for it because it is very hard to get
parts.
Debby Grant in NH
Cindy Morley on wed 6 aug 97
I have a question that you all might be able to help me with. I have the
oportunity to purchase a kiln, but I know pretty much nill about them.
The kiln is a Skutt 18x18X18 (inside) manual kiln, cone 6. It is in
supposidly good shape. The person bought it for $75 intending to resell
it and asked me what I would be willing to pay for it. What would you all
suggest? I need to get an answer to this person soon. Thanks!
Cindy Morley
cmorley@comp.uark.edu
Cheryl Fisher on sun 7 feb 99
I'm curious about a kiln and whhat price someone should get for it. A
kiln and many molds have been donated to Pet Placement here in town. Pet
placement helps homeless animals through various fundraisers, including
yard sales. The kiln is a Paragon and there were about 15-20 molds. The
person who donated it had originally tried to sell the whole package for
$500 through the newspaper and was unsuccessful. They claim it was at
least 10 years old. It says Paragon high-fire on it, but I couldn't find
the number. It was tied in the truck and molds were on top of it. It had
its books with it, and to me they look as if they were printed in the
late 70's maybe early 80's. I didn't see inside the kiln but the outside
seems to be okay. It's one piece, not 3 like my Olympic. One person is
saying they should get $300 for it (not inclufing the molds). I'm
guessing it's in the 2.95 cu. ft. range. Should they try to sell all
items together? Approximately what does anyone think it's worth. If they
sold the molds separate what would they get for the molds? I've never
used molds so I don't have any idea. If I find out more, I'll send more
information.
--
Cheryl F.
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL
B. Tate on tue 20 apr 99
With regard to venting kilns. I have a 30amp Cress FX 23 below my condo in =
my
(solitary) parking garage that I have turned into a studio. The space is
enclosed except for one wall which is open to the outside (was the car =
entry).
There are no vents in the space and so I figured that the way the gases are
escaping is thru this entry.
Do you think there any way the fumes can seep thru the ceiling, insulation, =
and
floor of my condo?
Euclids on thu 22 apr 99
> With regard to venting kilns. I have a 30amp Cress FX 23 below my condo
in my
> (solitary) parking garage that I have turned into a studio. The space is
> enclosed except for one wall which is open to the outside (was the car
entry).
> There are no vents in the space and so I figured that the way the gases
are
> escaping is thru this entry.
>
> Do you think there any way the fumes can seep thru the ceiling,
insulation, and
> floor of my condo?
Hi,
It is unlikely, but there is a slight chance that the fumes could leak into
your condo, depending on the construction of the room. If the one wall is
completely open, most of the fumes will escape & venting may not be
necessary. A fan to direct the fumes toward the opening may be the best (&
cheapest) solution.
Chris @
Euclids Kilns & Elements
1-800-296-5456
euclids.com
mail@euclids.com
Barney Adams on mon 31 jul 00
Hi,
I'm looking into possibly buying a wooded lot in the area.
It's rural enough that I would be able to fire a kiln. I'd like
like to go with a wood/propane, but I think I need to do
more research. In the interim I was wondering if I could
try to fire a kiln based on the one in CM April 2000 issue
titled "Horn Island Kiln" by W. Lowell Baker. It's basically
3 55gal steel drums. Two stacked togeather as the stack and
the third is used as a firebox. I would in essence be doing the
same except dirt instead of the sand. Also if this illustrates the basic
principles
of a kiln then could I just duplicate this by cutting into a mound?
I understand this is that principle of simple concepts that are very
complicated to implement. Is most of the complexity due to building
the kiln for re-loadability?
I know. The books are all on order, but I'm thinking about this now.
Barney
Carrie or Peter Jacobson on wed 23 aug 00
Greetings,
I am still a fledgling potter, in need of information and direction.
I have only ever fired in oxidation, in a computer-controlled electric kiln,
at the community studio I managed in Connecticut. I liked the results I got
with a cone 6 porcelain and a collection of glazes I made. Bright colors
mostly, because that's what I like.
So now, we have moved to Maine, and I am slowly buying the things that once
were mine to use for free. I am contemplating kilns.
The one problem I have with electric kilns is that, generally, in the price
I can afford, or find used (cheap), the size of the kiln limits the size of
my work. I like to throw big.
But I am starting to wonder more about surface texture, levels of
vitrification and translucency, range of possible effect and other options.
It looks like I've found a 27 inch used Geil for $150. So I will have
something, albeit smaller than I would like, to start with. But from there,
what? Gas or wood? Homemade or bought? Updraft or downdraft? Or electric
after all?
I know that much of this all depends on what I want, where I want my art and
craft to go. Well, big and bright and not so shiny would be my answer.
Though I am not enamored with what I imagine to be the potterly end of the
color scale, the browns and greens, I do really like the warmth of
wood-fired pieces. But I am not sure if the tradeoff in work is worth it. I
understand that most wood-firing potters only fire a couple times a year...
as not so expert a potter, I need to fire more than that, to test and try
things and learn.
Also, what sort of aptitude does one need to build and/or operate a gas or
wood kiln? I am not so mechanically inclined, though I am reasonably
intelligent.
I would really like to hear folks' experience with the different firing
options, and why they've chosen what they've chosen.
Thanks,
Carrie Jacobson
Bolster's Mills, Maine
GURUSHAKTI@AOL.COM on wed 23 aug 00
Dear Carrie:
I built and fired my first gas kiln never having fired one before, nor having
seen one being fired, so it can be done. I got a plan for a nice twenty
something cubic foot downdraft from the Rhodes Kiln book and bit the bullet
and I had a great first firing. These days there is so much more information
out there. I would suggest you get Nils Lou's book of kiln firing. If you
want to build a kiln, find one that works and buy or beg the plans.
When I designed my wood kiln, I designed it to do everything --- fire all
wood, all gas, fire soda, etc.
If you think you might want to play with wood firing, why not built a single
bourry box, cross draft kiln that you can fire yourself and design it with a
place for one or two burners so you can fire it all wood, all gas or part
gas, part wood. You can use it for oxidation with the gas firing to get the
bright colors you want. The other way would be to get an electric kiln for
bisque and oxidation firings and build a small tunnel type wood kiln that
you can build in about three hours and fire in three to four hours. This type
of kiln is a small time and money investment and would satisfy your curiosity
and desire for wood without going into a big money and time investment. There
is plan for this kiln available on the web. I posted information about it in
the last few weeks. It would be in the clayart archives.
The kiln is made from firebricks and only a single brick thick. It defies
everything we know about kilns. It actually fires faster with the single hard
brick than when they built it with a two brick thick wall. It is a
puzzlement. :-) This little kiln is fired with wood in the early stages and
then you can switch to oil drip or gas later.
Since we retired, I'm down to my old Geil gas kiln and a tiny Aim electric
that I have rigged with a gas burner that I had Nils Lou build for me and I'm
planning (if their testing goes well), on buying one of the new Olympic
gas/electric kilns when they become available -- hopefully late winter, they
tell me. Also, this fall, I'm going to build one of the little wood/gas
combos I mentioned above and use that as a soda/salt kiln since my Geil
upward facing burners just can't take the soda/salt. The old fiber held up
well with the ITC 100 coating, but the burners rusted out in two firings!
Regards,
June
mel jacobson on wed 30 aug 00
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: lisa young
Subject: re:baileykiln
To: mel jacobson
:
:
:
I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
have tried many different firing schedules, with no
real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
got any ideas?
thanks. Lisa Young
--- mel jacobson wg.
>
>
> clayart mail
> melpots2@pclink.com
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Louis H.. Katz on wed 30 aug 00
Lisa,
My understanding is that Bailey provides complete support for their kilns and
that you can call them up in the middle of a firing. If this is true, give it a
try. Other than that here are the only reasons I can think of:
You are reducing too hard.... If there is much soot collecting around spy holes or
other opening this could be true.
Your are oxidizing too hard...If there is no back pressure this could be true, if
you are getting all oxidation colors (other than the copper red) this is more
likely true.
You are not using enough gas. ..... If your gas supply is insufficient to the
kiln or the orifices too small..
You are not patient enough. Others may disagree, but if you are having trouble
finely tuning a kiln two hours a cone between cone 9-11 might be necessary.
Certain it Can be done in less time.
Louis
mel jacobson wrote:
> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
> From: lisa young
> Subject: re:baileykiln
> To: mel jacobson
> :
> :
> :
>
> I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young
> --- mel jacobson wg.
> >
> >
> > clayart mail
> > melpots2@pclink.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
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>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
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NEW EMAIL ADDRESS Louis.Katz@mail.tamucc.edu
NCECA Director of Electronic Communication and Webmaster(Ad-Hoc)
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Marjorie Beynon on thu 31 aug 00
Suggest you read Pete Pinnell's article in Clay Times Nov/Dec 1998. In fact read
it a number of times. It's the Turbulence !! Have a bailey and using this article
as a guide - keeping blower flaps open ( 1/4 ") - start reduction at cone 010 - I
have had consistent good results. If you follow Pete's suggestions be watchful,
your kiln will probably get to cone 11. MB
mel jacobson wrote:
> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
> From: lisa young
> Subject: re:baileykiln
> To: mel jacobson
> :
> :
> :
>
> I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young
> --- mel jacobson wg.
> >
> >
> > clayart mail
> > melpots2@pclink.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
WardBurner@AOL.COM on thu 31 aug 00
In a message dated 8/31/00 12:50:04 PM, WardBurner writes:
<< << I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young >>
Oh, I've got plenty of ideas, but I'll need to ask you some
questions....Sounds as if you have the wrong size piping, or too long of a
run of pipe with too many elbows. Feel free to give me a call.
Marc Ward
Ward Burner Systems
PO Box 1086
Dandridge, TN 37725
865.397-2914 Voice
865.397-1253 Fax
wardburner@aol.com Email
wardburner.com Online Catalog >>
StarShip on sat 30 sep 00
I am looking for something to "cover" the inside top of my electric =
kiln. The brick is uncoated, and does not look as good as it could, and =
I am concerned about brick dust falling onto glazed articles.
Sammy J Shuford
Starship@cchat.com
--
Married 26 years and loving every minute!
--
Low Carbohydrate Forever!
--
Nanci Bishof on sun 1 oct 00
ITC 100 will seal the bricks.
nanci
Saralyn Lindsey on wed 4 apr 01
After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
after having an electrican come in for the
installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
other protection that I should consider?
When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
right?
Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
like Spring!
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Diane Echlin on wed 4 apr 01
Hi Sandy,
My opinion is that you can bisque all your wares at the same time, regardless of
the differing wall thicknesses. I would caution you, however, to be absolutely
sure that everything is bone dry, and do a slow firing. Keep the lid propped open
slightly for the first couple hours to allow any residual moisture to escape more
easily.
It sounds like you have covered your bases as far as venting goes, but even with
the envirovent working, I would hesitate to be near the kiln when firing.
Good luck in your clay adventure!
Diane in (Guilford) CT
Saralyn Lindsey wrote:
> After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
> rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
> the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
> for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
> again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
> love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
> included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
> after having an electrican come in for the
> installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
> to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
> ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
> basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
> are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
> other protection that I should consider?
>
> When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
> the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
> coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
> fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
> thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
> temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
> programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
> right?
>
> Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
> greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
> adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
> Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
> like Spring!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Cindy Strnad on wed 4 apr 01
Hello, Sandy.
Congratulations on getting your studio all set up! When you do your first,
empty firing, don't fire completely empty. Set up shelves and place shelf
cones on them. Bottom, middle, top, and in several denominations. This will
give you an idea as to how accurate your controller is--whether it needs any
tweaking.
For your two-foot tall planters, I recommend a long soak at below boiling.
I've soaked large pots for as long as 6-8 hours. I don't know whether that
much time is really necessary, but you put so much work into them . . . .
This long soak won't hurt your thin-walled pieces, though they don't need
such careful treatment. For more on firing, please feel free to visit my web
page and click on the technical link (bottom of the left window).
Best wishes for a wonderful first firing,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
jcullen on thu 5 apr 01
Saralyn, one thing missing from your kiln setup is some form of venting. I
believe that venting improves the firing and certainly improves your health
working in a confined space. Bailey carries a single kiln vent system for
$208. One could be built for considerable less if you're inclined to
do-it-yourself.
Any fumes released from firing will travel through your entire house. Your
furnace system will suck the fumes up and evenly distribute them for you.
No problem bisquing big, small, thick, thin at the same time. Fill 'er up.
Just don't pile the big, thick on top of the small, thin. That's not good!
Good luck.
"Beautiful young people are acts of nature,
but beautiful old people are works of art."
KEEP CENTERED
Cullen
Naperville, Illinois
mail to: jcullen845@ameritech.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Saralyn Lindsey"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 6:54 AM
Subject: Kiln Question
> After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
> rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
> the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
> for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
> again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
> love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
> included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
> after having an electrican come in for the
> installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
> to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
> ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
> basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
> are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
> other protection that I should consider?
>
> When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
> the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
> coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
> fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
> thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
> temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
> programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
> right?
>
> Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
> greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
> adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
> Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
> like Spring!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tamara Williams on tue 2 oct 01
Hi everyone.. I have some kiln concerns.. I have a studio space that's about 300 sq ft in an old tobacco warehouse (I live in the south =)) The studio is in the middle of the building and does not have a window.. It does have the proper voltage nearby and 1 brick wall.. It also has an open ceiling meaning the walls only go up to 9 feet and the ceiling is 11 feet.. Now my concern is this.. is there enough space for ventilation in this type of space? heat rises so I'm not going to be blown out of my own studio am I? I have the ok by the Art Center Director to put one in...
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Tamara
m markey on tue 2 oct 01
Hi Tamara!
No, you won't be blown up (unless you regularly use explosives)by your
electric kiln, but the fumes from your glazes and clays may be hazardous to
your health.
I recommend that you purchase a kiln ventilator, which either sucks or blows
the kiln emissions out of the building, via a metal ceiling/roof chimney, or
a coorugated metal tube that can be used for blowing emissions out of a
window. There are several models and types to choose from. Your kiln
manufacturer may have one that fits your kiln.
Be sure to check your local building codes and air pollution
standards--failure to do so might cost you $$$ in fines, in some
communities.
Best wishes!
Mohabee Nakedclay@hotmail.com
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Brant Palley NMCLAY.com on wed 3 oct 01
We stumbled along for all these years without kiln vents, and most of us
survived. You have (as some wise person said) a great tool on your face,
your nose! If you put in a kiln and you fire it, and it does not offend
you, then all is good. If you choke and cough, buy a vent system. Exhaust
it through the roof if you have to. If you use high barium or lead glazes
be more careful,if not, enjoy your creativity, trust your nose.
Rebecca P on sat 12 oct 02
Hi all!
Newbie question. I have a very small kiln (Skutt 614-3) - I call it R2D2.
I am making a gift for my son-in-law. I forgot to take into account the
size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT on
the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so, it
should shrink enough that I should have no problem fitting it for the glaze
firing. My other alternative is to have it bisque fired at the community
studio where the time of firing cannot be predicted and the gift will be
late. (Yes, I waited until the last minute) Thanks so much!
Cheers,
Rebecca Pierre
Oak Island, NC - where the "..bridge, suspended between mainland and island,
holds memories of the roads that brought us here. Makes a promise of blue
sea wedged between trees, in the distance ahead."
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Snail Scott on sat 12 oct 02
At 05:10 PM 10/12/02 -0400, you wrote:
>It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
>firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
>bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it?
Been there, done that! It'll be fine. -Snail
Marianne Lombardo on sat 12 oct 02
Hi Rebecca;
It's perfectly okay to place the piece on the bottom of the kiln. I do that
all the time for bisque firings. Not for glaze firings because it's too
hard to scrape off drips.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
> size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT
on
> the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
> firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
> bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so,
it
Jose A. Velez on sun 13 oct 02
----- Original Message -----
> It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
> firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
> bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem>
Rebecca:
You sure can. I do fire my kiln without a shelf at the bottom and have not
noticed any ill effects. Good luck.
Jose A. Velez
Carol Tripp on mon 14 oct 02
Hi Rebecca,
Yes, you can bisque fire it directly on the bottom of the kiln and in case
it doesn't shrink enough, glaze it and fire it on a "cookie" on the bottom
of the kiln. A cookie is a very thin flat slab of clay that catches drips.
Make a few and bisque fire them. I use them under all my glaze test tiles.
Best regards,
Carol
Rebecca wrote, in part:
I have a very small kiln (Skutt 614-3) - I call it
>R2D2.
>I am making a gift for my son-in-law. I forgot to take into account the
>size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT
>on
>the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
>firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
>bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so, it
>should shrink enough that I should have no problem fitting it for the glaze
>firing.
"Success is going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm."
Churchill
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http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
Arnold Howard on mon 14 oct 02
Removing the bottom shelf from your kiln may actually improve heat
distribution to the bottom. The shelf is a large ceramic mass that
absorbs energy.
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
--- Marianne Lombardo wrote:
> Hi Rebecca;
>
> It's perfectly okay to place the piece on the bottom of the kiln.
> I do that
> all the time for bisque firings. Not for glaze firings because
> it's too
> hard to scrape off drips.
>
> Marianne Lombardo
> Omemee, Ontario, Canada
> email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>
> > size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the
> sides but NOT
> on
> > the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for
> the bisque
> > firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting
> directly on the
> > bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do
> it? If so,
> it
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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bluefirepottery on mon 26 mar 07
Hi guys:
This is a question for anyone who has built a brick kiln and fires to =
high temps. I am perplexed. When I built the kiln I cut bricks to =
brick up the door and all of the brick fit with a smidge of room for =
easy placement. At the second firing, none of the bricks fit--all had =
to have some shaved off of one end to fit. Third firing--same thing. =
Fourth firing--again, the bricks didn't fit and had to have their ends =
shaved off. Now here is the weird part, the top row of bricks for the =
door were 1 inch splits which fit with room to spare for the first =
firing. At the second firing, there was not 1 inch at the top to fit =
them in so I filled the gap with fiber. AT the third firing the 1 inch =
splits fit on either side, but not in the center. For the fourth =
firing, they all fit again!!!! Obviously either the kiln or the door =
bricks or all of the above are changing shape with each firing. Any =
experience with this? Any explanations? I am most curious about this =
phenomena. The kiln is a wood fired Minnesota Flat top.=20
Each firing has been different. Yesterday's firing was balky and smokey =
and I had trouble reaching temperature. The best firings seem to be on =
windy days.
Debra Cobbeldick
Blue Fire Pottery
http://cobbeldick.aftosawebhosting.com/
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzes4z8v/
Michael Wendt on fri 29 feb 08
Loren,
The easy way to constrict the inlet on the secondary
air is to make some sliding shutters that you can
adjust to make the inlet around the burner port
smaller.
Ideally, you would make all four the same so you
could adjust all of them exactly the same to see
what happens. The method would be to make
small incremental changes with each load until you
get the desired result. I think you could even design
them to close completely at the end of the firing
to clam the kiln up tight and really slow the cooling
rate.
The design could look something like this:
http://www.wendtpottery.com/clayart.htm
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
Loren JOnes on fri 29 feb 08
I have another question- or two- for all of you. I have many years of experience firing a couple of kilns with power burners. I have gotten great results out of these kilns for years. Well, now I am firing a small 12 cubic foot downdraft kiln with 4 venturi burners coming in through the floor. This kiln has some problems. First off the burner manufacturer calls for port openings of 2.5" and this kiln has 3.5" openings. When you put this kiln into reduction the bottom heats up and the top stalls. This than leaves you trying yo play catch up. Could all of that excess oxygen cause this? We have four 40,000 btu burners set to 2.5" wci and the damper at 2.5" this appears to produce a good reduction but when you open the kiln it is mostly oxidized on the bottom. Sometimes you can get good carbon trap shinos down there but I wouldnt put my celedons down there. Is this all confusing enough? Can anybody comment on this? I feel that there must be better ways to
fire this for more consistant results. Loren Jones
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Edouard Bastarache Inc. on sat 1 mar 08
Michael,
if the stack had been built with a "loose brick",
it may have solved the problem by removing
the loose brick.
The chimney would then suck in room air
and reduce the draw. It is a trick I learned
many years ago.
If the draw is to much reduced, you can
reduce the effect by replacing the brick by a
soap brick or any other piece of refractory
material smaller than the hole caused by the
removal of the full-sized brick.
When it is windy enough, I fire the entire day
with the loose brick removed.
Gis la revido,
(A la revoyure)
Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
http://www.pshcanada.com/Toxicology.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/20321056/
http://perso.orange.fr/smart2000/livres.htm
http://myblogsmesblogs.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wendt"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: kiln question
> Loren,
> The easy way to constrict the inlet on the
> secondary
> air is to make some sliding shutters that you
> can
> adjust to make the inlet around the burner port
> smaller.
> Ideally, you would make all four the same so you
> could adjust all of them exactly the same to see
> what happens. The method would be to make
> small incremental changes with each load until
> you
> get the desired result. I think you could even
> design
> them to close completely at the end of the
> firing
> to clam the kiln up tight and really slow the
> cooling
> rate.
> The design could look something like this:
> http://www.wendtpottery.com/clayart.htm
> Regards,
> Michael Wendt
> Wendt Pottery
> 2729 Clearwater Ave.
> Lewiston, Id 83501
> U.S.A.
> 208-746-3724
> wendtpot@lewiston.com
> http://www.wendtpottery.com
> http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to:
> clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post
> messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the
> list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database:
> 269.21.2/1304 - Release Date: 2008-02-29 08:18
>
>
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 1 mar 08
Dear Loren JOnes ,
When I built my own kiln I oversized the port openings in the hearth of =
the kiln. This allowed an excess of air preventing good reducing =
conditions.
I solved the problem by inserting a ring of ceramic fibre as a liner in =
each of the ports. When you have tested the effect this can be cemented =
in place with Sodium Silicate.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Michael Wendt on mon 21 sep 09
Dave,
I agree with his analysis. Around here, the power goes off
unexpectedly and then comes back on. Until the computer
controls are battery back-up equipped, manual kilns with
electro-mechanical timers are more bullet proof. Also, since
we always want to be there for the end of the firing to
watch the cone fall, a manual kiln works just great.
I do like the Bartlett controller and use it exclusively but
if it ever fails, it is nice not to be crippled until it is
repaired. Also, I can use the same controller to fire all
three of our electric kilns, a great savings over having
three electronic kilns.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Dave asked:
Hello Clayart, I'm on the verge of purchasing a Skutt 1027.
I was ready to
pull the trigger on the model with the computerized
controller. A potter
friend of mine thought I'd be better off buying the manual
model and
purchasing a separate controller. He felt that should the
kiln with the
built in controller develop problems I wouldn't be able to
use it at all
until it was repaired. But a manual model could still be
used by
disconnecting the separate controller. I'd appreciate
Clayart feedback on
this thought.
Dave Lyons
The New Pittsville Pottery
Dave Lyons on mon 21 sep 09
Hello Clayart, I'm on the verge of purchasing a Skutt 1027. I was ready t=
o
pull the trigger on the model with the computerized controller. A potter
friend of mine thought I'd be better off buying the manual model and
purchasing a separate controller. He felt that should the kiln with the
built in controller develop problems I wouldn't be able to use it at all
until it was repaired. But a manual model could still be used by
disconnecting the separate controller. I'd appreciate Clayart feedback on
this thought.
Dave Lyons
The New Pittsville Pottery
Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on mon 21 sep 09
Hi Dave,
That is exactly what I have done with my L&L kiln. If something
happens to shut down my controller, and it has happened, I just unplug
it and fire manually until I can fix my controller.
Lynn
On Sep 21, 2009, at 9:35 AM, Dave Lyons wrote:
> Hello Clayart, I'm on the verge of purchasing a Skutt 1027. I was
> ready to
> pull the trigger on the model with the computerized controller. A
> potter
> friend of mine thought I'd be better off buying the manual model and
> purchasing a separate controller. He felt that should the kiln with
> the
> built in controller develop problems I wouldn't be able to use it at
> all
> until it was repaired. But a manual model could still be used by
> disconnecting the separate controller. I'd appreciate Clayart
> feedback on
> this thought.
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
lesley alexander on wed 4 nov 09
Have an Olsen updraft 12 cubic foot kiln which I've been using for ^10 =3D
work. However, it's larger, than I need and is easier to get even =3D
firings with reduction. Now I'm considering doing more ^5 firings in =3D
oxidation. (Fell in love with the warmer clay tones available that way).
Any opinions about my just leaving the bottom half empty, or half empty =3D
(scattering extra posts about) and just firing work in the top half? =3D
Lesley, slow at getting things filled up.....
steve graber on wed 4 nov 09
my kiln is currently too big for just me so i exploit other potter friends =
=3D
around=3DA0my area to help fill it up.=3DA0 i'd hate to see 1/2 a kiln go u=
nuse=3D
d.=3DA0 it's like not using 1/2 a roll of (old fashioned) film.=3DA0 =3D0A=
=3D0A=3D0A=3D
=3DA0Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc=3D0AClaremont, California USA=3D0A=
The St=3D
eve Tool - for awesome texture on pots! =3D0Awww.graberspottery.com steve@g=
ra=3D
berspottery.com =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AOn Laguna Clay's website=3D0Ahttp://www.lagu=
naclay.c=3D
om/blogs/ =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Original Message ----=3D0A> From: lesle=
y alexande=3D
r =3D0A> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0A> Sent: Wed, Nov=
embe=3D
r 4, 2009 7:01:25 AM=3D0A> Subject: Kiln question=3D0A> =3D0A> Have an Olse=
n updr=3D
aft 12 cubic foot kiln which I've been using for ^10 work. =3D0A> However, =
it=3D
's larger, than I need and is easier to get even firings with =3D0A> reduct=
io=3D
n. Now I'm considering doing more ^5 firings in oxidation. (Fell in love =
=3D
=3D0A> with the warmer clay tones available that way).=3D0A> Any opinions a=
bout=3D
my just leaving the bottom half empty, or half empty =3D0A> (scattering ex=
tr=3D
a posts about) and just firing work in the top half? Lesley, =3D0A> slow at=
g=3D
etting things filled up.....=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
David Woof on tue 16 feb 10
Hi Bev=3D2C =3D20
Your kiln sitter is just a dumb piece of mechanical equipment that depends =
=3D
on the deformation of a maturing cone to trip the shut off mechanism of the=
=3D
kiln.
=3D20
Most likely it is that your elements are ageing from use or abuse. Just bec=
=3D
ause they heat up doesn't mean they are "fine" as you say. The elements' r=
=3D
esistance changes with age and before you look further you should get the s=
=3D
pecifications for your particular kiln re voltage and amperage and have a q=
=3D
ualified person check the resistance.
=3D20
Have this person also check the voltage being delivered from the power prov=
=3D
ider. Down here in Patio Town I can't run my welders or big compressor whe=
=3D
n everyone up on the street turns on their electric cooking stoves to prepa=
=3D
re dinner. Has anything changed in your neighborhood? I have found this p=
=3D
ower drop in business Scottsdale during lunch rush when installing outdoor =
=3D
art for commercial clients as well. My electric kilns if on at this time =
=3D
just "suffer through" till the power comes back up. The price I pay for bei=
=3D
ng able to live and work on this sweet spot of earth.
=3D20
David Woof---------Clarkdale=3D2C Arizona
________________________________________________________________________
16a. kiln question
Posted by: "Beverly Blitzer" thepotter@COX.NET=3D20
Date: Tue Feb 16=3D2C 2010 9:43 am ((PST))
Hi Clayarters=3D2C
I have a test kiln(skutt 609) that is taking too long to reach
temperature.
The cone 7 cone is slightly bending when the timer goes off after
total 12 hours! Way too long.
In the past=3D2C the kiln would shut off at approx. 6 hours after high
rather than 10!
I vacuumed it out and tested the coils. They are fine.
I think it is something about the kiln sitter but the center rod seems
to be in the middle and the outside lever is working properly.
Are there any other suggestions for things that can be adjusted around
the sitter area?
Thanks for your response.
Bev in Rhode Island
Snowing for a change!
=3D20
=3D20
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/=3D
Beverly Blitzer on tue 16 feb 10
Hi Clayarters,
I have a test kiln(skutt 609) that is taking too long to reach
temperature.
The cone 7 cone is slightly bending when the timer goes off after
total 12 hours! Way too long.
In the past, the kiln would shut off at approx. 6 hours after high
rather than 10!
I vacuumed it out and tested the coils. They are fine.
I think it is something about the kiln sitter but the center rod seems
to be in the middle and the outside lever is working properly.
Are there any other suggestions for things that can be adjusted around
the sitter area?
Thanks for your response.
Bev in Rhode Island
Snowing for a change!
William & Susan Schran User on tue 16 feb 10
On 2/16/10 11:15 AM, "Beverly Blitzer" wrote:
> Hi Clayarters,
> I have a test kiln(skutt 609) that is taking too long to reach
> temperature.
> The cone 7 cone is slightly bending when the timer goes off after
> total 12 hours! Way too long.
> In the past, the kiln would shut off at approx. 6 hours after high
> rather than 10!
> I vacuumed it out and tested the coils. They are fine.
> I think it is something about the kiln sitter but the center rod seems
> to be in the middle and the outside lever is working properly.
> Are there any other suggestions for things that can be adjusted around
> the sitter area?
How many firings to ^7 have you done with this kiln?
You may have tested the elements for continuity, did you check for ohm
(resistance)?
If you can test the elements that way, you can determine if the elements
need to be replaced.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Arnold Howard on tue 16 feb 10
From: "Beverly Blitzer"
> Are there any other suggestions for things that can be
> adjusted around
> the sitter area?
-----------
Bev, did the kiln gradually slow down, or was it sudden?
Do you use a witness cone on the shelf to verify that the
Kiln Sitter shut off correctly?
The voltage in your area may have dropped because of high
electrical demand. Low voltage can actually double the
firing time.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Beverly Blitzer on tue 16 feb 10
Thanks Bill,. I will try to borrow a volt meter.
The elements are looking brand new and has only been fired to 7 a
handful of times.
It is a tiny little (easy bake) kiln that I usually just use for a
couple of tiles or bisque pieces.
I really think it is something around the area of the sitter so I am
going to get some witness cones to try.
I am getting one of those little metal templets to make sure the
arrangement of prongs in the sitter is correct.
I'll keep trying different things.
Right now I am going to fire to 03 and see what the timing is like
before I go any higher.
Thanks.
Bev
On Feb 16, 2010, at 1:37 PM, William & Susan Schran User wrote:
On Feb 16, 2010, at 1:37 PM, William & Susan Schran User wrote:
> On 2/16/10 11:15 AM, "Beverly Blitzer" wrote:
>
>> Hi Clayarters,
>> I have a test kiln(skutt 609) that is taking too long to reach
>> temperature.
>> The cone 7 cone is slightly bending when the timer goes off after
>> total 12 hours! Way too long.
>> In the past, the kiln would shut off at approx. 6 hours after high
>> rather than 10!
>> I vacuumed it out and tested the coils. They are fine.
>> I think it is something about the kiln sitter but the center rod
>> seems
>> to be in the middle and the outside lever is working properly.
>> Are there any other suggestions for things that can be adjusted
>> around
>> the sitter area?
>
> How many firings to ^7 have you done with this kiln?
> You may have tested the elements for continuity, did you check for ohm
> (resistance)?
> If you can test the elements that way, you can determine if the
> elements
> need to be replaced.
>
> Bill
>
> --
> William "Bill" Schran
> wschran@cox.net
> wschran@nvcc.edu
> http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Vince Pitelka on fri 26 feb 10
Carol Casey wrote:
"A friend thinks a turkey fryer mechanism could be used to fire a home-made
kiln, but he wants to know if this is a really cracked idea or possible. I
know nothing about turkery fryers and next to nothing about kilns . . . an=
d
turn to you experts out there. Any opinions?"
Carol -
I am assuming that by "mechanism," you mean the larger burners under turkey
fryers. Unfortunately, that's the wrong kind of burner altogether. A kiln
burner needs to inject a large amount of heat through a small burner port.
A turkey fryer burner produces a very large, flared flame, in order to
transfer as much heat as possible to the bottom of the fryer pot. If you
had a kiln with that large a hole in the bottom, you would never achieve th=
e
necessary temperatures. I have heard of a number of people (who didn't kno=
w
better) trying to do this, and it has proven to be a fairly spectacular
waste of time.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Carol Casey on fri 26 feb 10
Hi, all,
A friend thinks a turkey fryer mechanism could be used to fire a home-made
kiln, but he wants to know if this is a really cracked idea or possible. I
know nothing about turkery fryers and next to nothing about kilns . . . an=
d
turn to you experts out there. Any opinions?
Thanks,
Carol
Canary Court
douglas fur on fri 26 feb 10
Carol
If you want to make it work you could but it depends on what you want- a
kiln to do X,Y or Z or a kiln made out of a turkey fryer.
[with my "willfully perverse" sense of design I can see one of those turkey
deep fryers with a large pot and large burner made into a kiln by inverting
the pot, cutting an exhaust hole, lining it with fiber, making a base with
soft brick, cutting the venturi tube off the burner and having it fire
through a hole in the base but the main question is *why would you want to
do that?*]
DRB
Seattle
On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 9:15 AM, Carol Casey wrote:
> Hi, all,
>
> A friend thinks a turkey fryer mechanism could be used to fire a home-mad=
e
> kiln, but he wants to know if this is a really cracked idea or possible. =
I
> know nothing about turkery fryers and next to nothing about kilns . . .
> and
> turn to you experts out there. Any opinions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Carol
> Canary Court
>
Carol Casey on sat 27 feb 10
That is exactly the answer I was looking for; I had a question about gettin=
g
to the right temperature. Thank you.
The reason this came up was because I live in a rowhouse with a small
backyard and I was trying to think of ways I could fire outside . . .
Thanks again.
C.
On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 8:41 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Carol Casey wrote:
> "A friend thinks a turkey fryer mechanism could be used to fire a home-ma=
de
> kiln, but he wants to know if this is a really cracked idea or possible. =
I
> know nothing about turkery fryers and next to nothing about kilns . . .
> and
> turn to you experts out there. Any opinions?"
>
> Carol -
> I am assuming that by "mechanism," you mean the larger burners under turk=
ey
> fryers. Unfortunately, that's the wrong kind of burner altogether. A ki=
ln
> burner needs to inject a large amount of heat through a small burner port=
.
> A turkey fryer burner produces a very large, flared flame, in order to
> transfer as much heat as possible to the bottom of the fryer pot. If you
> had a kiln with that large a hole in the bottom, you would never achieve
> the
> necessary temperatures. I have heard of a number of people (who didn't
> know
> better) trying to do this, and it has proven to be a fairly spectacular
> waste of time.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
>
Steve Mills on mon 12 sep 11
Dear Elaine
In the absence of a Pyro, I offer my HML (or LMH) firing technique.=3D20
Main tool required: a tin with a smooth shiny bottom which is kept away fro=
m=3D
the Kiln and cool!
For Bisc.=3D20
Set the kiln on Low with (assuming a top loader) the lid propped open about=
1=3D
/8th inch. Periodically hold the tin just above the lid opening for a count=
o=3D
f 3. If a lot of steam is present change nothing. If very little vapour sho=
w=3D
s, turn up to Medium. If no vapour, ditto! Repeat at Medium setting until n=
o=3D
vapour shows, at which point close the lid and turn up to High and fire to=
t=3D
he finish.=3D20
If, like me you have a small vent hole in the lid, it is a lot easier!
Glaze Firing=3D20
Set the lid the same as for Bisc, but start at Medium. Repeat the "Tin Test=
"=3D
until no vapour shows, then close the lid and turn on High and fire to fin=
i=3D
sh.=3D20
Have fun
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch
On 12 Sep 2011, at 13:40, ELAINE CARROLL wrote:
> I recently purchased an old Skutt 1027 with a kiln sitter. The switches =
o=3D
nly=3D20
> have low, med, and high. Hopefully some of you out there are still firi=
n=3D
g with=3D20
> kiln sitters or remember when you did, and can help me. I don't know whe=
t=3D
her to=3D20
> fire by the amount of time the kiln has been on one sitting, or how fast =
t=3D
he=3D20
> tempature is rising. I have a pyrometer so I can fire by the change in=
=3D20=3D
> temperature, but I have no idea how to do this. I am firing to cone 6 an=
d=3D
=3D20
> bisque firing to 06. Any help and info will be much appreciated. Elaine
ELAINE CARROLL on mon 12 sep 11
I recently purchased an old Skutt 1027 with a kiln sitter.=3DA0 The switche=
s=3D
=3DA0 only =3D0Ahave low, med, and high.=3DA0=3DA0 Hopefully some of you ou=
t there =3D
are still firing with =3D0Akiln sitters or remember when you did, and can h=
el=3D
p me.=3DA0 I don't know whether to =3D0Afire by the amount of time the kiln=
has=3D
been on one sitting, or how fast the =3D0Atempature is rising.=3DA0 I have=
a p=3D
yrometer so I can fire by the change in =3D0Atemperature, but I have no ide=
a =3D
how to do this.=3DA0=3DA0I am firing to cone 6 and =3D0Abisque firing to 06=
. Any =3D
help and info will be much appreciated. Elaine
Rogier Donker on tue 13 sep 11
Hey Elaine,
You might consider purchasing a copy of my book "Of
Clay,Glazes and Kilns." "Everything" you always wanted to know about
kilns is in there, including the formula of firing with a kiln sitter/
pyrometer! Check my web site for details.
Happy potting!
Rogier
P.S. See us on the web at http://www.donkerstudio.org
William & Susan Schran User on tue 13 sep 11
On 9/12/11 8:40 AM, "ELAINE CARROLL" wrote:
> I recently purchased an old Skutt 1027 with a kiln sitter.=3DA0 The switc=
hes=3DA0=3D
only
> have low, med, and high.=3DA0=3DA0 Hopefully some of you out there are st=
ill firi=3D
ng
> with=3D20
> kiln sitters or remember when you did, and can help me.=3DA0 I don't know=
whe=3D
ther
> to=3D20
> fire by the amount of time the kiln has been on one sitting, or how fast =
=3D
the
> tempature is rising.=3DA0 I have a pyrometer so I can fire by the change =
in
> temperature, but I have no idea how to do this.=3DA0=3DA0I am firing to c=
one 6 an=3D
d
> bisque firing to 06. Any help and info will be much appreciated. Elaine
When I used manually controlled kilns I would fire on low for an hour, med
for an hour then to hi, but I fire fast with the pots I make.
You will need to think of your first few firings as your tests, making use
you keep good notes and checking the firing often - every hour. Assuming
this is bisque:
Start with all switches low and record the heat rise on pyrometer.
When you get to 750F or there about, all switches to med watching heat clim=
=3D
b
until about 1500F then bottom switch to hi, watch heat climb. You want end
of firing to slow down to about 100F - 120F per hour. If not climbing that
rate, turn middle switch to hi.
Have witness cones top, middle bottom - at least one in front of spy hole
that you will fire by. If firing to ^06, have a ^04 bar/mini cone in the
kilnsitter. You should always consider kilnsitter as backup, not to turn of=
=3D
f
the kiln for you.
Glaze firings can go faster, but you do want to also slow down towards end
of firing.
Bill
--=3D20
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Snail Scott on tue 13 sep 11
On Sep 12, 2011, at 7:40 AM, ELAINE CARROLL wrote:
> I recently purchased an old Skutt 1027 with a kiln sitter. The =3D
switches only=3D20
> have low, med, and high...
This is the same kind of kiln I've used for almost all my work=3D20
for the last decade, and before that I had its predecessor, =3D20
the Skutt 231. My 1027 was old when I got it, too. There=3D20
is nothing wrong with an old manual kiln. I'm grateful for the=3D20
kiln at school with the computerized controller, especially=3D20
when I'm teaching and can't be there when I need to be.
Don't really want one in my own studio, though. I'm there=3D20
anyway, so turning up its little knobs is no big deal, and I=3D20
like knowing that I can fix almost everything in it with my=3D20
handy multitool. I also like the feeling of more direct control.
(Yeah, I drive a stickshift, too.)
Here's my attitude toward switches. I candle using only the=3D20
top ring on 'low' for a while depending on the thickness of=3D20
the work. (Mine's pretty thick.) Why top? Because although=3D20
a lot of heat is lost, it means a slower, more even heating of=3D20
the stuff in the kiln. If I used the bottom ring only, the stuff on=3D20
the bottom shelf is in close proximity and all that heat is=3D20
concentrated there. Yeah, it rises, but the stuff close by gets=3D20
a heavier dose. I don't usually have that much stuff tight against=3D20
the top. While convection makes heat rise, radiation will still=3D20
heat the lower levels gently. (I have the lid open a few inches=3D20
during candling.) A cheap oven thermometer will tell you=3D20
when the bottom is past the 200F mark, but once you get the=3D20
feel for how much time is needed for a typical load, you can=3D20
just wing it. You can also feel for moisture, if you like. It's=3D20
surprising how you can feel the moisture even in air that hot,=3D20
but you can also use a room-temperature compact mirror to=3D20
check: any remaining moisture will condense on the mirror=3D20
as you hold it close to the propped lid. I usually don't check =3D20
anymore, as I have a good baseline already established for=3D20
how long these things take. Until then, though, it's a simple=3D20
check.
The candling is, as far as I am concerned, the most important=3D20
phase, or is at least equal to peak temperature in terms of the=3D20
need for attention and accuracy. Once you are past that, it's=3D20
jus not that critical. After you are past the temperature where=3D20
steam can form, go ahead and shut the lid, and turn all the=3D20
switches to low. The instructions tend to say something like=3D20
'one hour on low, then one hour on medium, then switch to=3D20
high' etc. These are written, near as I can tell, for people doing=3D20
slip-casting. They work OK for thin thrown work, too, but I=3D20
think they were mainly written to Keep It Simple for the novice.=3D20
My view? You can go quicker through the medium phase, as=3D20
I've never met an electric kiln yet that heated up too quickly=3D20
even when pushed directly to 'high' after a solid candling.=3D20
(Some older electric kilns only have 'on-off' switches on each=3D20
ring. They still work. Candling is key.)=3D20
So, medium doesn't really matter. Take your time on candling=3D20
an 'low', then just give it heat. Wait until you are getting close,=3D20
then start checking your witness cones. Yes, always use=3D20
witness cones! Insurance doesn't come any cheaper.=3D20
I do often let the sitter turn off a bisque load on its own, though
I check to see how long it took, and that the sitter worked. I'm=3D20
just not that fussy about my bisque, and I often single-fire=3D20
anyway. I often let the sitter shut down a vitrification firing, too=3D20
but only for unglazed work.=3D20
Over the years, I have learned the calibration for my kiln. The=3D20
number on the sitter cone is NEVER quite dead-on, and you=3D20
will need to use witness cones to check the 'real' level of=3D20
vitrification. You can adjust the level of the deadfall flap on=3D20
your sitter, and fine-tune it over several firings, (a good idea),=3D20
but I don't bother, especially since no glaze is ever exactly a=3D20
^6 or whatever. One may be sort of ^6.2 or so, and another =3D20
perhaps more of a 5.9. No, there ain't no digital cones, but=3D20
when you get a glaze result that's dead-on, with good fit to=3D20
the clay, you look at your cones, at the angle of the bend,=3D20
and keep a record of it. Nail the cone pack to the wall with=3D20
the name of the glaze next to it, or draw it in your notebook.=3D20
(Draw it next to the recipe, too, if it matters. Some glazes=3D20
are fussier than others.) The nominal 'accurate' cone reading=3D20
is with a 90 degree bend, but who cares? Only your glazes,=3D20
and they may need something a bit different. =3D20
"Be thou not a slave to full integers!" -Snail Scott
So, what to put in the sitter? For a non-glaze firing, I put in=3D20
whatever comes closest to giving me the right reading on=3D20
the relevant witness cone. For my kiln, it's a full cone number=3D20
off between them. I could recalibrate the sitter, but it's my kiln,=3D20
and I don't care. If a ^7 in the sitter gives me a witness-cone 6
result, if I want ^6, ^7 is what the sitter gets. You can recalibrate=3D20
the sitter to be a better match, but sometimes it's a pain. Don't=3D20
get hung up on the numbers; only results matter. =3D20
When I have a glaze firing, I choose the sitter cone a full cone=3D20
above what I want. I keep an eye on the time, then when the=3D20
heat is close, I start checking the witness cones. When the=3D20
relevant cone is bent to the level I want, then I shut down the=3D20
kiln manually. If I had the 'correct' cone in the sitter, it might=3D20
shut down a hair too soon; the higher cone acts as a failsafe=3D20
in case I don't get there when I should. If I chose to use the=3D20
'correct' cone, it's still fine, though. I can just tape the sitter=3D20
flap back up and push the on button again, and still shut it off=3D20
again manually when the witness cones give the OK.=3D20
To shut off or not to shut off? For glossy glazes, might as well=3D20
just turn it off. For matte glazes, though ('true' mattes, not=3D20
underfired stuff), a slow cool can radically affect the look. (I=3D20
have a favorite glaze that, depending on the rate of cooling,=3D20
can be anything from a semi-gloss chocolate brown to a dijon-
mustard dry matte.) If you own a pyrometer, you can just turn=3D20
it off, wait for the 'sweet spot' temperature, then turn it back on=3D20
and twiddle the switches to hold it there as long as you like.=3D20
I haven't got a pyrometer, so I do it the easy way, based on=3D20
the results of quite a few firings. Instead of turning off the=3D20
kiln, I just set all the switches to 'medium', set the timer to=3D20
between one and three hours (depending on desired result),=3D20
then walk away. The pyrometer method has less of a learning=3D20
curve, but the 'set to medium' method clearly works, and no=3D20
one ought to feel, ever, as though they need the latest mod =3D20
cons to achieve a good result. If your kiln is one of the newer=3D20
models with thick walls and extra insulation, added cooling=3D20
time may not be needed. My skinny-walled old kiln is kinda=3D20
handy, though, because I can choose: crash-cool or not?
Cheap to buy, cheap to own and maintain, simple and highly=3D20
controllable. Love your old manual kiln, learn its ways, and it=3D20
will love you back.
-Snail=3D
Pottery by John on tue 13 sep 11
Snail,
What great advice on using the top element ring to candle. I learned to
fire on my own, but have talked to other folks about candling, bisque and
glost firings and nobody ever mentioned that advice. I didn't see it in any
kiln manuals either!
I have a small Knight kiln that the low on the low ring is too much output
to keep the temperature below steaming level, so I leave the top open and
lay a couple of shelves from my larger kiln across the open top and adjust
the opening to hold in just the right heat to candle overnight without
blowing anything up. Next bisque firing I am trying your technique; top on
low, lid propped open a few degrees and watch the pyrometer for a while to
see how it works out.
Regards,
John Lowes
Sandy Springs, Georgia
http://wynhillpottery.weebly.com/
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