ANT KAR on wed 2 jul 97
Hi all!
I don't know much about kilns, so would appreciate any help I can get.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if it is possible to
repair/replace the cracked brick on the sides/bottom of my OLD Duncan
kiln. The bricks aren't real badly chipped, but some could use fixing.
The place where I was purchasing supplies/service/information told me that
you don't repair/replace brick. This seems rather strange to me...what do
you do, buy a new kiln when it still works fine?
This place seems to not want me to try to repair anything. I kind of gave
up on them!
Any info would be appreciated. Also, what's the difference between 'hard
brick' and 'soft brick'?
Thanks much
Karen
Wilkinson on thu 3 jul 97
Hi Karen,
Take it from one that is struggling to get a kiln up and running for
several weeks now, if it just a mater if a few chipped bricks why bother?
That is a difficult task to replace bricks and get the jacket back on the
way it was for just a few cracked bricks. IMHO if your kiln is working
properly, let it be.
Lori Wilkinson
LorWilk@dfn.com
Roswell NM
Where NO ONE seems to know a thing about kilns. Maybe they are all aliens.
Carol Seidman on tue 24 nov 98
Can anything be done to repair broken kiln bricks? A day student in the
high school where I teach night classes let the lid drop on the kiln. It
is (was) a Paragon top loader. The lid is encased in metal on the top
and sides. The insulating material broke into several pieces but did
not yet fall out. Every time the lid is lowered for a firing, this mess
of pieces sags downward getting ready to fall out. The school art
teacher has so far continued to use the kiln this way. Is there any way
to patch this up with a substance that will hold up to the constant
heating?. The kiln is fired almost daily to ^05. Thanks for your help.
Carol Seidman
cseidman@home.com
Roger Korn on thu 26 nov 98
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:36:48 EST
From: Carol Seidman
Subject: kiln repair
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Can anything be done to repair broken kiln bricks? A day student in the
high school where I teach night classes let the lid drop on the kiln. It
is (was) a Paragon top loader. The lid is encased in metal on the top
and sides. The insulating material broke into several pieces but did
not yet fall out. Every time the lid is lowered for a firing, this mess
of pieces sags downward getting ready to fall out. The school art
teacher has so far continued to use the kiln this way. Is there any way
to patch this up with a substance that will hold up to the constant
heating?. The kiln is fired almost daily to ^05. Thanks for your help.
Carol Seidman
cseidman@home.com
Remove the lid and set it bottom side up on a table.
Thin some 'Sairset Kiln Mortar with water to a heavy cream consistency and
work
it into the cracks, then push the little bits back into position. Squeegee
(I use a straight rib) all the excess off and allow to harden. The mortar
will shrink into the cracks quite a bit, so, after the first coat has
hardened, I pour more of the thinned mortar onto the surface and squeegee
again. Don't leave any mortar on the surface - just in the cracks.
Finally, I coat the repaired surface with a thin, sprayed coat of ITC100.
This not only improves the kiln efficiency, it also bonds all of the tiny
bits of crumbled brick and mortar to the surface so they don't fall on the
ware.
I've repaired lids where literally EVERY brick was cracked using this
procedure.
Roger
McKay Creek Ceramics
Box 436
North Plains, OR 97133
(503) 647-5464 rkorn@europa.com Evenings and weekends
(503) 615-1504 roger.korn@radisys.com Workdays
The Silvernell's on tue 3 aug 99
------------------
Help=21 School is starting in less than 3 weeks, and I need to repair my
classroom kilns. Questions:
1) I attended a kiln repair workshop in Helena, and Chip (from A. Bray) said=
not
to replace bricks without replacing elements, and vice versa. Yet, the =
Skutt
brochure specifically illustrates doing just that. Has anyone tried to =
replace
bricks (successfully) without replacing elements? Our high school owns a =
Skutt
model 231-18 and is renting one from Custer Country art center model =
1227-240,
which needs an element, but not bricks.
2)In a post from Jeff Lawrence to John Tiemann, Jeff mentions using ITC =
coating
on new elements instead of firing an empty kiln to =5E04. (PLEASE don't =
laugh at
the following question - as the only art teacher in a small Montana town, =
I'm
expected to know everything, when in fact, I'm primarily a painter - BUT
learning fast, due to Clayart - thanks=21 :) The real question is: What is =
ITC?
Can I purchase it for real cheap, since I've had my spring orders for this
entire school year since last April? (Meaning, if I need it, it will come =
out
of my pocket.)
3)Replacing elements will require me to purchase element connectors - anyone
have an e-mail address for Skutt?
4)Last question, which is really for the glaze experts: there have been 2 =
recent
glazes listed which have frit 3134 and Wollastinite. They are both safe =
glazes
(ideal for my classroom), but I don't have either. Anything I can =
substitute
for them? I do have most everything else. Thank-you in advance
Kerri Silvernell silvernelldk=40mcn.net
Dave Finkelnburg on thu 5 aug 99
Kerri,
Sounds like you get to learn about a lot of things in your job!
Ferro Frit 3134 has sodium, calcium, boron and silica. Theoretically
you can substitute Gerstly Borate and silica for the frit.
Wollastonite is simply calcium silicate, and, again, theoretically you
can substitute whiting (limestone) and silica for it.
Gerstley borate, though, has some qualities some people consider
undesireable. It is partly soluble, so you get a sort of gel quality to
your glaze over time, and it's a highly variable raw material, so repeat
batches are not necessarily the same. Where you aren't in a commercial
situation, that may not be a problem. I use up to 50% Gerstley Borate (GB)
in some recipes and just mix it well when I go to use it, so it's tendency
to flocculate can be managed. Others on the list can offer good suggestions
on how to deal with this in a glaze.
When using whiting instead of wollastonite, you obviously get carbonate
coming off the whiting, but that's usually not a problem.
Hope your class goes well!
Dave Finkelnburg from Anaconda but living in Idaho
dfinkeln@cyberhighway.net
-----Original Message-----
From: The Silvernell's
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 12:07 PM
Subject: kiln repair
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
Help! School is starting in less than 3 weeks, and I need to repair my
classroom kilns. Questions:
1) I attended a kiln repair workshop in Helena, and Chip (from A. Bray) said
not
to replace bricks without replacing elements, and vice versa. Yet, the
Skutt
brochure specifically illustrates doing just that. Has anyone tried to
replace
bricks (successfully) without replacing elements? Our high school owns a
Skutt
model 231-18 and is renting one from Custer Country art center model
1227-240,
which needs an element, but not bricks.
2)In a post from Jeff Lawrence to John Tiemann, Jeff mentions using ITC
coating
on new elements instead of firing an empty kiln to ^04. (PLEASE don't laugh
at
the following question - as the only art teacher in a small Montana town,
I'm
expected to know everything, when in fact, I'm primarily a painter - BUT
learning fast, due to Clayart - thanks! :) The real question is: What is
ITC?
Can I purchase it for real cheap, since I've had my spring orders for this
entire school year since last April? (Meaning, if I need it, it will come
out
of my pocket.)
3)Replacing elements will require me to purchase element connectors - anyone
have an e-mail address for Skutt?
4)Last question, which is really for the glaze experts: there have been 2
recent
glazes listed which have frit 3134 and Wollastinite. They are both safe
glazes
(ideal for my classroom), but I don't have either. Anything I can
substitute
for them? I do have most everything else. Thank-you in advance
Kerri Silvernell silvernelldk@mcn.net
Charles and Tamara Schulz on sat 7 aug 99
Hi,
The art center I work at has an old fiber lined gas kiln. Recently the
fiber ceiling began to sag down and actually fall apart. How can I repair
this? If I use new fiber ,should I use a single large piece or can I piece
together smaller ones? What should I use as an adhesive? I have ordered
some ITC 100 for the shelves. Can I also use it to fix the ceiling?
I am a novice and have no experience with kiln repairs. Any suggestions?
As always, Thanks for the help.
Tamara
--in Okinawa. Typhoon Olga just passed and we are now bracing for Paul!!
--just another day in paradise!
mel jacobson on sun 25 jun 00
and we are doing it now.
clean the area, scrape out junk.
use air if you can...and then spray with water.
roll up thin snakes of kaowool. soak them
in itc 100.....paint area to be repaired with itc 100.
stick snakes in cracks.
let dry./
fire to 1000F.
mel
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
written from the farm in wisconsin
donald h lyons on fri 20 jul 01
The Ceramics Guild of the Lexington Arts and Crafts Society in
Lexington, MA is looking for a person with experience in contructing
or
repairing gas kilns to repair or replace the door to its 27 cu. ft.
gas
kiln. A major problem with the door is the deterioration of the
peepholes. There are other problems with the door as well. We would
like
to hire someone less than two hours driving distance from Lexington.
Some of the work could perhaps be done by our members with advice and
help. If you are interested in undertaking this work, please respond
by
e-mail to
Donald Lyons at lyons-d@rcn.com.
Rogier Donker on fri 17 dec 04
One might look at the web site and realise that I offer summer workshops
that include basic kiln repair. I only have forty years of experience
though....
http://www.donkerstudio.org
and off to Wisconsin Monday to rebuild a kiln....
Happy Holidays everyone!
Rogier Donker
http:www.donkerstudio.org
Kathleen Gordon on mon 20 dec 04
original message...."Out of complete frustration I am ready to sign up
for kiln repair school.
I want to fix my own kilns, putting in new elements and a digital read
out board.
Is there a workshop anywhere to learn this "art"?
"
sandy..... i know how you feel.. my kiln failed right before a show and
the tech could not come for 2 weeks.. ah well...
i want to be more independent too....learn how to take care of the kiln
myself ..
. so when the tech finally came i got out my digital camera and
watched and asked questions and took lots of notes and pictures...when
he left i saw that the package of new elements from skutt came with
instructions that have lots of pictures ....i called skutt about
another matter and found that their techs are happy to help out with
questions...
.so i used the time the tech was fixing my kiln as my course in
figuring out how to do it myself.
luckily i had a tech who was willing to explain things .. i am sure i
had to pay a bit more for his time since it took him a bit longer but
when you consider all the time and money it takes to go to a course i
believe it was a good investment...i just wanted to suggest a non
tradtional course in kiln repair.
.good luck
Arnold Howard on tue 21 dec 04
Watching a kiln technician is a great way to learn electric kiln repair.
Another is to study the kiln's wiring diagram. Have the manufacturer send
you a diagram if you don't have it. (You can often download the diagram from
a website.)
The diagram shows how many elements are in the kiln and how they are wired
to switches or relays. Some diagrams even show the ohm readings for the
elements. Kiln manufacturers draw their wiring diagrams for artists, so the
diagrams are easier to read than diagrams meant for auto mechanics or
engineers. Relays, switches, elements, etc. are drawn out as simple
pictures.
As you study the diagram, you will gradually begin to understand how the
kiln works. For switch-operated kilns, the electricity passes through the
switches to the elements. For digital kilns, the diagram is a little more
complicated, but not much.
You can often diagnose a kiln problem just by looking at the diagram. If you
ever open the kiln's switch box to replace an element, compare the actual
wiring to the diagram. That will teach you a lot about your kiln.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
From: "Kathleen Gordon"
> i want to be more independent too....learn how to take care of the kiln
> myself ..
> . so when the tech finally came i got out my digital camera and
> watched and asked questions and took lots of notes and pictures...when
> he left i saw that the package of new elements from skutt came with
> instructions that have lots of pictures ....i called skutt about
> another matter and found that their techs are happy to help out with
> questions...
> .so i used the time the tech was fixing my kiln as my course in
> figuring out how to do it myself.
> luckily i had a tech who was willing to explain things .. i am sure i
> had to pay a bit more for his time since it took him a bit longer but
> when you consider all the time and money it takes to go to a course i
> believe it was a good investment...i just wanted to suggest a non
> tradtional course in kiln repair.
Fadra Hepner on fri 17 jun 05
Hello!
I have been searching the archives and found the answer to one of my questi=
ons already, so here's the rest of it. It should be an easy one (I hope.)
Recently purchased a used skutt of a good size. She's in pretty rough shap=
e, with a couple of cracks in the bottom of the kiln. (That's what I alread=
y have found-seems to add to the "character" of a kiln..)
The other problem I'm not sure how to tackle short of replacing all of the =
bricks in the bottom ring.=20=20
It appears that there has been some water damage (something funky happened =
to this poor kiln!) on the bottom ring, with discoloration and the bottom p=
ortion of the bricks chipped off. This chipping is all the way around the =
kiln where the bottom ring meets the base. I haven't found replacement bri=
cks on skutt's website, but haven't looked that hard.=20=20
Anyway, is my only option replacing the brick?
Looking forward to firing her someday..
Fadra Hepner
6-12 Art teacher in rural MO
--=20
_______________________________________________
NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating sites at=
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Snail Scott on sat 18 jun 05
At 08:17 PM 6/17/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>...This chipping is all the way around the kiln where the bottom ring
meets the base. I haven't found replacement bricks on skutt's website, but
haven't looked that hard...
If the chipping is minor, ignore it. If it is major,
go ahead and replace them. It's not that difficult.
Also, you don't need bricks from Skutt. Almost any
supplier will stock ordinary channel bricks. Just
ask for the standard ones (two parallel channels)
plus one for where the element crosses from top to
bottom and exits to the electrical box. And specify
how many sides your kiln has - that's what determines
the angle of the bevel.
Once you've got your bricks, SHUT OFF the BREAKER,
then unstack the rings of your kiln. (Might need help
if it's a ten-sider or more. They're not heavy, but
it's hard to lift them alone without stressing the
brick.) Turn the bottom ring over so that the damaged
edge is up.
If you keep the connector-section brick, you can keep
the same element. If that brick is really messed up,
though, it'll be easier to scrap the element, too, than
to try and disconnect it and reconnect it later. (It's
a pain to do with a Skutt - the only thing I don't like
about them. Not impossible, though, just a pain.)
Elements get brittle when they're old. It could break
if you're rough with it, but it's a good time to replace
it, while you're there anyway. It is actually be easier
than keeping the old one. Just be sure to ask for a
replacement TOP/BOTTOM element, not a MIDDLE one. ) ;)
IF you try to save the original element: Use a handheld
small propane torch to heat the element and while it's
still flexible, tease it out of the channel with
needle-nose pliers.
IF you do decide to scrap the connector brick and the
old element, open up the electrical box and clip the
element loose at the connectors. Save the little
porcelain spacers.
Now use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp straps
which keep the steel jacket tight. Doesn't need much;
just enough slack to slide the old bricks out. Then
put the new bricks in and tighten the jacket again.
Now flip the ring back over, right-way up.
If you kept the original connector-brick and element,
heat the element and ease it into the new channels
with the pliers.
If you have a new element, it'll still be flexible, so
just tuck it in by hand, no special treatment required.
Poke the element pigtail leads through the holes in
the connector brick, put the porcelain spacers back
in place, and attach the element ends to the wiring
with the crimp-connectors. Use serious lineman's pliers
for this - it's critical to get a tight crimp. Ask for
help if you're not sure it's tight enough.
Now close up the electical box, re-stack the rings of
the kiln, and you're done!
(If I forgot anything, someone say so!)
-Snail
Jeanette Harris on sat 18 jun 05
Hi, Fadra,
You probably should replace the entire bottom ring. You can order a
new one from Skutt. Sounds like the bottom ring is in pretty bad
shape. Cracks will 'close' when the kiln heats up and the bricks
expand, but I wouldn't want to risk the whole thing dropping to the
floor.
> Anyway, is my only option replacing the brick?
>
>
>Looking forward to firing her someday..
>
>Fadra Hepner
>6-12 Art teacher in rural MO
--
Jeanette Harris
Poulsbo WA
Potter's Council member
Jo Smith on sun 19 jun 05
Make sure the porcelain spacers are in good shape. I pulled the control box
on my very old (1983?) kiln and the spacers were crumbling. You do not want
the elements to touch your kiln jacket.
js
> IF you do decide to scrap the connector brick and the
> old element, open up the electrical box and clip the
> element loose at the connectors. Save the little
> porcelain spacers.
>
>> (If I forgot anything, someone say so!)
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
David Woof on sun 19 jun 05
fadra, your description sounds llike the bricks are discolored but intact
and supporting weight. then does ''she'' fire up her elements? if so, how
deep are the chips? inch or less, maybe don't bother repair.
one solution, when the kiln is in it's installed location, pack the eroded
chipped areas with an insulating refractory ''granola'' made of
gardeners vermiculate(wear a mask while mixing) enough kaolin and fire clay(
equal parts) to make it stick together, season with grog. (liberal)
a real quickie is to glure a strip of ceramic fiber around the inside base
using sodium silicate or ITC as the glue.
David Woof
Out over the edge, reverently taking an irreverent look at everything.
Snail Scott on mon 20 jun 05
At 12:46 PM 6/19/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Make sure the porcelain spacers are in good shape. I pulled the control box
>on my very old (1983?) kiln and the spacers were crumbling. You do not want
>the elements to touch your kiln jacket...
Wow, I've never encountered that, and my 'new' kiln
was already fairly old in 1983. They're still OK on
my (even older) Skutt 231, too. Apparently there's
some variability in the manufacture. You definitely
don't want failure in that component (!) and since
a new set of spacers costs very little, go ahead and
replace them if there's any degradation visible.
-Snail
Arnold Howard on tue 21 jun 05
Fadra, I agree with the others who have responded: You will probably need to
replace the bricks in the bottom section. However, if all the elements are
okay, you might be able to fire the kiln for awhile without replacing
anything. I've seen terrible looking kilns that fired quite well.
Since the bottom is cracked, it would be a good idea to slide a piece of
sheet metal between the kiln stand and brick bottom.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fadra Hepner"
Recently purchased a used skutt of a good size. She's in pretty rough
shape, with a couple of cracks in the bottom of the kiln. (That's what I
already have found-seems to add to the "character" of a kiln..)
The other problem I'm not sure how to tackle short of replacing all of the
bricks in the bottom ring.
It appears that there has been some water damage (something funky happened
to this poor kiln!) on the bottom ring, with discoloration and the bottom
portion of the bricks chipped off. This chipping is all the way around the
kiln where the bottom ring meets the base. I haven't found replacement
bricks on skutt's website, but haven't looked that hard.
Anyway, is my only option replacing the brick?
mel jacobson on sat 14 oct 06
i will ask arnold howard from paragon
to do a `kiln repair discussion` again
in the clayart room...this spring.
he did that last year..and it was
very well received.
he has models and things to look at.
mel
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
knoelle2@yahoo.com on fri 8 dec 06
Thanks for the advice on repairing the electric kiln.
I'll get some sheet metal for the bottom and put some
fibre down there too...
It's a large Skutt, which I got for free when I bought
a used L&L (which also has some damage from but not as
bad).
It's far beyond cosmetic damage - the kiln is quite
old and appears to have been moved badly several
times, and chunks are missing from some of the bricks,
about halfway
through. So, there is still insulation, but not as
much as a full brick in some places. Does anyone ever
patch with fibre? Or, if I can get the elements to pin
into place, can I fire it even though half the brick
is missing in some places? It's sounding like the
repairs can be tricky, but having checked the prices
of new kilns of comparable size, I don't want to give
up on it. And besides I already bought the elements...
Thanks,
Kathleen
____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com
William & Susan Schran User on fri 8 dec 06
On 12/8/06 6:16 AM, "knoelle2@yahoo.com" wrote:
> Or, if I can get the elements to pin
> into place, can I fire it even though half the brick
> is missing in some places?
Buy an insulating firebrick and small quantity of kiln cement.
At the areas of damage to wall brick, use a hack saw blade (the type for
cutting metal), wearing a respirator, to cut/create even square shapes
instead of the current irregular broken area. Measure the new open area and
cut you firebrick to the same dimensions. Cut additional square groove for
element placement in your patch brick. Check fit. Using small drill bit,
make couple of holes in patch brick. You'll be inserting element pins
through this patch, into the kiln wall to hold it in place. Carefully wet
your patch brick & the cut area in the wall. Put a thin coating of kiln
cement on patch. Insert in cut area. Let dry. Install new elements.
Hope this helps, Bill
Arnold Howard on fri 8 dec 06
From: "knoelle2@yahoo.com"
> It's far beyond cosmetic damage - the kiln is quite
> old and appears to have been moved badly several
> times, and chunks are missing from some of the bricks,
> about halfway
> through. So, there is still insulation, but not as
> much as a full brick in some places. Does anyone ever
> patch with fibre? Or, if I can get the elements to pin
> into place, can I fire it even though half the brick
> is missing in some places?
From what you describe, the kiln is salvageable. By
repairing it, you will learn a lot about kilns. This will be
a type of kiln maintenance seminar for you.
If I were you, I would replace the bricks. Since the kiln is
sectional, brick replacement is not difficult.
Many years ago I bought a red 1965 VW Bug for $250. It had
what sounded like a rod knock, which went away when I
loosened the fan belt. It purred after I tuned it.
Kilns are like that little car. As long as they are not
eaten away with rust and you handle them as gently as you
would a piece of electronics, you can make an electric kiln
last for decades.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Marcia Selsor on fri 8 dec 06
I used Mel's patching with fiber soaked in ITC when I was repairing
kilns at U of HI last year. There were very old WestCo gas kilns.
It works well.
ITC is really good stuff.
If you can remove all the new elements, I'd spray the whole interior
as well as repair cracks
and chips. I have a gallon of ITC diluted and I use it whenever. I
have sprayed all my kilns.
Marcia
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Dec 8, 2006, at 5:16 AM, knoelle2@yahoo.com wrote:
> Thanks for the advice on repairing the electric kiln.
> I'll get some sheet metal for the bottom and put some
> fibre down there too...
> It's a large Skutt, which I got for free when I bought
> a used L&L (which also has some damage from but not as
> bad).
>
> It's far beyond cosmetic damage - the kiln is quite
> old and appears to have been moved badly several
> times, and chunks are missing from some of the bricks,
> about halfway
> through. So, there is still insulation, but not as
> much as a full brick in some places. Does anyone ever
> patch with fibre? Or, if I can get the elements to pin
> into place, can I fire it even though half the brick
> is missing in some places? It's sounding like the
> repairs can be tricky, but having checked the prices
> of new kilns of comparable size, I don't want to give
> up on it. And besides I already bought the elements...
> Thanks,
> Kathleen
>
Snail Scott on fri 8 dec 06
At 03:16 AM 12/8/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>...It's far beyond cosmetic damage - the kiln is quite
>old and appears to have been moved badly several
>times, and chunks are missing from some of the bricks...
Sounds like it's in better shape than
mine, and mine's still truckin'.
For the spots where the element channel
is busted out, don't try to pin the
element across; that many pins will
really trash the remaining brick. Instead,
get a spare plain softbrick and use a
hacksaw to cut a slice to use as a 'shelf'
to retain the element. Use pins to hold
the sliver of brick in place from
underneath, at an angle. If it's just a
bit of the channel lip missing, a pin will
do.
If you are replacing the elements anyway,
though, I'd replace the worst bricks at the
same time. Skutt is one of the easiest
kilns to replace brick in, since by turning
the rings over, ever brick is as accessible
as a top brick. Just loosen the steel shell,
gently extract the element from the bad
brick, (heating with a propane torch if
necessary). Or if replacing the element
too, just yank the whole thing out first
and replace it after the brick is done.
Lift the brick straight up and out and
slide the new brick in. Then tighten the
steel shell and replace the element.
No need to go crazy, though. A kiln can
be pretty battered and still work fine.
Really.
-Snail
Andy Misner on mon 11 dec 06
It probably wouldn't be a good idea to patch with fiber. Due to most fibers
are only good to 2300 degrees f. below what cone 10 would be. Replacing the
brick isn't all that hard. Just use a good eye and butter your brick
with a good refractory mortar just like you would butter your bread.
Andy
www.indfirebrick.com
P.S. To those that let me know our website was broke, I got it fixed. Thanks
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 03:16:27 -0800, knoelle2@yahoo.com
wrote:
>Thanks for the advice on repairing the electric kiln.
>I'll get some sheet metal for the bottom and put some
>fibre down there too...
>It's a large Skutt, which I got for free when I bought
>a used L&L (which also has some damage from but not as
>bad).
>
>It's far beyond cosmetic damage - the kiln is quite
>old and appears to have been moved badly several
>times, and chunks are missing from some of the bricks,
>about halfway
>through. So, there is still insulation, but not as
>much as a full brick in some places. Does anyone ever
>patch with fibre? Or, if I can get the elements to pin
>into place, can I fire it even though half the brick
>is missing in some places? It's sounding like the
>repairs can be tricky, but having checked the prices
>of new kilns of comparable size, I don't want to give
>up on it. And besides I already bought the elements...
>Thanks,
>Kathleen
>
>
>
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Rogier Donker on sun 25 mar 07
Me!
Rogier
see us on the web at http://www.donkerstudio.org
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