Peter Willis on thu 3 jul 97
>Does anyone know why, after putting a green slip on a stoneware sculpture,
>and then applying dry oxides with a brush over it and then firing to ^6 in
>oxidation, why would the oxides not show up? The only color was of the
>slip itself. I expected a mottled appearance, but got a flat color.
---------Karen,
How did you apply the "dry oxides"? I'm not sure if I understand your
method(sometimes an explanation loses something in the writing) But if
you simply applied a dry powder on the surface of an unglazed claybody,
you don't have anything to keep the oxide on the surface. If that is
what happened, then try mixing the oxide in a little water and make a
wash and apply with a brush. The water will make the oxides "stick" to
the pot like a glaze. I'm not sure if I understand your method(sometimes
an explanation loses something in the writing)
>tell me if it is possible to
>repair/replace the cracked brick on the sides/bottom of my OLD Duncan
>kiln. The bricks aren't real badly chipped, but some could use fixing.
If all you have is a crack, I wouldn't worry about it. If it is sooooo
badly chipped that you fear it will fall out, then you should look into
replacing it.
I assume that the brick in question is "soft" ie it is crumbly and very
pourous.
Soft brick is an insulation brick and is much lighter than the "hard"
brick which is dense and solid. Each have specific purposes in the
structure of a kiln and I suggest(if you are really that interested in
the maintanence of your kiln that you check out at your library or buy
Fred Olsens "The Kiln Book"
It explains a great deal on refractories and other kiln materials in
building and consequencially in maintaining kilns.
Good Luck,
Becky Lowery
Lexington, KY
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