Levine Meg Jessica on fri 16 aug 96
My kiln came with an Orton Kiln Vent. I have been happy with it. I was
surprised that I fired a luster firing and could not smell it in my
studio. These vents won't remove heat- just fumes. Meg
Jeanne Ormsby on fri 23 jan 98
On the subject of kiln vents/hoods for a small electric kiln, any
suggestions as to what would be best for a basement setup? Do the vents
that sit under the kiln and draw air downwards work? Are the hoods more
effective? How hot does the venting itself get?
Many, many thanks,
Jeanne
Unruly JuliE on sun 25 jan 98
Jeanee,
my suggestion would be an Orton kilnvent or the Skutt Environvent
(yes Bonnie, you were right all along!! Sorry!!) Orton has a
Kilnvent Jr. which is smaller than the orginal version which may
suit you better. These two units are almost exactly the same and
in my opinion work just fine for a basement kiln setup. I have
not had any fumes present in my basement, after I hooked up
seperately from the dryer, it was back washing into the dryer and
out into the basement! Although I still have it venting through
the dryer ducting, I switch which item to vent by using a duct
clamp, therefore only have one item vented at a time (I can't use
them at the same time anyway!!).
JuliE in Michigan where it is going to get warm again
Corinne Null on mon 26 jan 98
Although I still have it venting through
>the dryer ducting, I switch which item to vent by using a duct
>clamp, therefore only have one item vented at a time
>
I have been doing this with my hot wax venting and the kiln venting, and
find it cumbersome to keep switching the aluminum ducting. I've been
trying to figure a "Y" connector with flaps on both sides of the Y to open
and close which device should be venting. Has anyone come up with a
solution for this yet? I already have a dryer vent hole, and now my
wax/kiln vent hole. Up in this part of the country we usually try to plug
up holes in our houses this time of year, not make new ones!
Corinne Null
Bedford, NH
cnull@MCIONE.com
Olivia T Cavy on tue 27 jan 98
Corinne, I purchased a T shaped 2-way dryer vent. This has 2 openings for
2 different appliances (in my case clothes dryer and Skutt Envirovent),
only one of which can used at a time. There are several flaps in each
opening that are pushed open by air coming from either the dryer or the
Envirovent. The same air coming from one source puts back pressure on the
other set of flaps, keeping it closed to prevent the air from going into
the other appliance.
I bought the plastic vent at Home Depot, and it is commercially produced
so I believe you could find something similar in many places. It was
difficult to attach this piece to the existing dryer vent, and duct tape
was quite useful in sealing cracks where air leaked out. However the
whole thing now works fine. I've been using it about 6 months now.
I had originally hoped to find a similar device in a Y shape, rather than
the T shape, because installation would have been much easier.
Bonnie D. Hellman
Pittsburgh, PA
work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com
home email: mou10man@sgi.net
On Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:26:20 EST Corinne Null writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
> Although I still have it venting through
>>the dryer ducting, I switch which item to vent by using a duct
>>clamp, therefore only have one item vented at a time
>>
>I have been doing this with my hot wax venting and the kiln venting,
>and
>find it cumbersome to keep switching the aluminum ducting. I've been
>trying to figure a "Y" connector with flaps on both sides of the Y to
>open
>and close which device should be venting. Has anyone come up with a
>solution for this yet? I already have a dryer vent hole, and now my
>wax/kiln vent hole. Up in this part of the country we usually try to
>plug
>up holes in our houses this time of year, not make new ones!
>
>
>Corinne Null
>Bedford, NH
>
>cnull@MCIONE.com
>
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Lisa P Skeen on wed 28 jan 98
Bonnie:
Are you noticing any etching of the plastic from the kiln fumes?
Wonder how long the device will last?
Lisa Skeen, Living Tree Pottery and Soaps
http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
On Tue, 27 Jan 1998 08:01:48 EST Olivia T Cavy
writes:
I purchased a T shaped >2-way dryer vent.
_____________________________________________________________________
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Olivia T Cavy on thu 29 jan 98
Lisa, I fire electric (cone 6) and have not (yet?) noticed any etching
from the fumes. But I really wouldn't expect to notice any destruction
until many, many firings later. I'd rather have an inexpensive plastic
part need to be replaced after many years than breath the fumes. On the
other hand, I don't know why there would be more destruction of the
plastic there than on the plastic dryer venting hose I used to take the
air from the kiln to the splitter where it exits my house.
Bonnie D. Hellman
Pittsburgh, PA
work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com
home email: mou10man@sgi.net
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:23:30 EST Lisa P Skeen writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>Bonnie:
>
>Are you noticing any etching of the plastic from the kiln fumes?
>Wonder how long the device will last?
>
>Lisa Skeen, Living Tree Pottery and Soaps
>http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
>
>On Tue, 27 Jan 1998 08:01:48 EST Olivia T Cavy
>writes:
> I purchased a T shaped >2-way dryer vent.
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
_____________________________________________________________________
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Kris Baum on thu 29 jan 98
Previous messages ...
> Are you noticing any etching of the plastic from the kiln fumes?
> Wonder how long the device will last?
>
> Lisa Skeen, Living Tree Pottery and Soaps
> http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
>
> On Tue, 27 Jan 1998 08:01:48 EST Olivia T Cavy
> writes:
> I purchased a T shaped >2-way dryer vent.
I had vented my kiln using flexible plastic dryer venting hose to
bridge between the metal outlet pipe and the metal pipe through the
wall to outside. One day in the studio, I noticed a "funny smell"
and, upon closer inspection, the plastic hose had a large tear. I
patched it on the run with metal tape, but am in the process of
replacing it with solid metal pipe. BTW, I'm a little surprised the
flexible plastic lasted as long as it did - over 100 firings!
Kris Baum
Shubunkin Pottery
Gaithersburg, MD
USA
mailto:shubunki@erols.com
Kris Baum on fri 30 jan 98
Re: my previous message - I said flexible plastic venting when I
MEANT flexible (accordion corrugated) metal venting. Sorry ... of
course, that flimsy plastic stuff would melt from the heat.
Kris Baum
Shubunkin Pottery
Gaithersburg, MD
USA
mailto:shubunki@erols.com
Corinne Null on sun 1 feb 98
Bonnie,
Never could find this wonderful T with the extra flaps, so I took a bypass
vent for the dryer that allows you to vent the heat into your basement
instead of the outdoors. It has a single flap and I just hooked my second
vent into the proposed indoor outlet (fit a round vent to a square outlet
with good ole duct tape) and switch the flap depending on which device I
want to vent at the time. Haven't actually used it yet, but by rights it
should work fine. Finally! Thanks for your nudge. Solves a real studio
time waster of a problem.
At 08:01 AM 1/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Corinne, I purchased a T shaped 2-way dryer vent. This has 2 openings for
>2 different appliances (in my case clothes dryer and Skutt Envirovent),
>only one of which can used at a time. There are several flaps in each
>opening that are pushed open by air coming from either the dryer or the
>Envirovent. The same air coming from one source puts back pressure on the
>other set of flaps, keeping it closed to prevent the air from going into
>the other appliance.
>
> I bought the plastic vent at Home Depot, and it is commercially produced
>so I believe you could find something similar in many places. It was
>difficult to attach this piece to the existing dryer vent, and duct tape
>was quite useful in sealing cracks where air leaked out. However the
>whole thing now works fine. I've been using it about 6 months now.
>
>I had originally hoped to find a similar device in a Y shape, rather than
>the T shape, because installation would have been much easier.
>
>Bonnie D. Hellman
>Pittsburgh, PA
>work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com
>home email: mou10man@sgi.net
>
>On Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:26:20 EST Corinne Null writes:
>>----------------------------Original
>>message----------------------------
>> Although I still have it venting through
>>>the dryer ducting, I switch which item to vent by using a duct
>>>clamp, therefore only have one item vented at a time
>>>
>>I have been doing this with my hot wax venting and the kiln venting,
>>and
>>find it cumbersome to keep switching the aluminum ducting. I've been
>>trying to figure a "Y" connector with flaps on both sides of the Y to
>>open
>>and close which device should be venting. Has anyone come up with a
>>solution for this yet? I already have a dryer vent hole, and now my
>>wax/kiln vent hole. Up in this part of the country we usually try to
>>plug
>>up holes in our houses this time of year, not make new ones!
>>
>>
>>Corinne Null
>>Bedford, NH
>>
>>cnull@MCIONE.com
>>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
Corinne Null
Bedford, NH
null@mediaone.net
Percy Skuy on tue 2 mar 99
I have been following the various discussions on clayart for a short
while and am finding the give and take on various topics enlightening
and the banter between clayart friends fun!
This is my first attempt to join in, so please bear with me.
I am about to relocate my kiln in the basement of our house--closer to
an outside wall to make venting easier, and I also plan to enclose it in
a smaller space . I presently have a vent hood (probably similar to the
type that Vince Pitelka feels is useless) and altho' I know that it was
a vast improvement over NO vent, I am open to suggestion as to just what
I could try at this point, and can it be made by a friend who
understands these things, rather than my having to purchase one from a
dealer.
Thanks in advance.
Elsa, in Toronto where March has come in like a lamb...so far!
Percy Skuy on tue 2 mar 99
I have been following the various discussions on clayart for a short
while and am finding the give and take on various topics enlightening
and the banter between clayart friends fun!
This is my first attempt to join in, so please bear with me.
I am about to relocate my kiln in the basement of our house--closer to
an outside wall to make venting easier, and I also plan to enclose it in
a smaller space . I presently have a vent hood (probably similar to the
type that Vince Pitelka feels is useless) and altho' I know that it was
a vast improvement over NO vent, I am open to suggestion as to just what
I could try at this point, and can it be made by a friend who
understands these things, rather than my having to purchase one from a
dealer.
Thanks in advance.
Elsa, in Toronto where March has come in like a lamb...so far!
Erin Hayes on wed 3 mar 99
Percy,
I swear by my Envirovent from Skutt. Orton makes a similar design. I find
the gases from the firing are pulled out of the studio before they're in the
studio - a distinct advantage over the hood type vent.
The only thing you should watch for is the small areas of cooler heat near
the air inlet holes needed in the top of the kiln. I top the load with an
extra kiln shelf to channel the air away from the ware.
Also, if you can't afford stainless steel vent tubing right away, aluminum
dryer vent works, but needs to be replaced occasionally because the gases
corrode the tubing over time.
Erin.
Nunnelly, Chuck on wed 3 mar 99
I too was interested in an alternative to the skutt or orton kiln vents, I
think >$300 is a little much for a fan and some sheet metal. I need to find a
source for the fan, as the rest is easily fabricated. Any thoughts on the
fan, I'm not sure if there is a special temperature rating for the fan given
it's environment.
Chuck Nunnelly
Jenny Krasner on wed 14 apr 99
Hi=21
I'm going to buy a kiln vent=21 You've convinced me=21=21=21 does anyone =
out there have
a strong opinion about which one to get, I was looking at the Bailey model =
Vs.
the enviro-vent, or the hooded vent-a-kiln. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. It just seems to me, that by drawing out the air, you add hours
onto your firing time, as well as change the whole temperature range of the
kiln. Almost seems like the best bet, is not to vent the kiln, and build a
separate, lets say, closet for it with a fan to draw the air outside.
Jenny Krasner
KrasJenn=40worldnet.att.net
original message:
Brad,
I'm sure you are aware, though others may not be, that the Bailey kiln
vent is basically the same design, except the fan is =22in line.=22 That =
is,
the flexible aluminum is spaced about 3/8=22 from the kiln to let some
relatively cool room air leak in, along with the hot air drawn from the
kiln, and the fan mounted on a wall or post near the kiln, part way between
the kiln and the outdoor vent. The exhaust side of the fan flows through
more dryer vent pipe or flex hose to the outdoors.
Dave Finkelnburg, still watching winter snow drifting across the crocus
blossoms.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Sondahl =3Cbsondahl=40camasnet.com=3E
To: CLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU =3CCLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=3E
Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 10:13 AM
Subject: Cheap kiln vent
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3EI recently added a cheap kiln vent to my electric kiln. I bought some
=3Eflexible aluminum clothes dryer vent and attached it to the bottom
=3Epeephole of my kiln with three sheetmetal screws with added washers to
=3Ekeep from ripping through the thin metal. At the other end of the
=3Eflexible section I used standard rigid aluminum dryer vent tubing to get
=3Eit out of a window. Outside I added a small fan mounted in an A-frame
=3Eof plywood (so as to protect it from rain/snow). From inside I can push
=3Ethe vent tube closer to the fan to create more suction, or farther from
=3Eit for less. When I fire a bisque, I want more suction, to vent the
=3Esulphur fumes. You can tell how effective the venting is by how hot the
=3Epipe is getting. It never seems to get too hot to touch. No longer the
=3Etaste of sulphur when I fire...
=3EOther folks might share their ideas on this as well...
=3E--
=3EBrad Sondahl
=3Ehttp://www.camasnet.com/=7Easondahl/bradindex.html
=3ESondahl homepage http://www.camasnet.com/=7Easondahl
=3EOriginal literature, music, pottery, and art
=3E
Barney Adams on thu 15 apr 99
Hi,
I have the enviro-vent and can recommend it. The vent does'nt effect
the firing time as it's not pulling the air through the kiln directly. It
uses the Venturi effect to draw air through the kiln and mix the hot air
with a much larger amount of cooler air. The number of vent holes is
regulated per the size of the kiln to keep this ratio of air reasonable.
The cooling of the kiln can be quicker, but if this is unwanted you can
turn off the vent at the end of the firing. The biggest benefit is the
removal of the fumes.
Barney
Jenny Krasner wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi!
>
> I'm going to buy a kiln vent! You've convinced me!!! does anyone out there ha
> a strong opinion about which one to get, I was looking at the Bailey model Vs.
> the enviro-vent, or the hooded vent-a-kiln. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated. It just seems to me, that by drawing out the air, you add hours
> onto your firing time, as well as change the whole temperature range of the
> kiln. Almost seems like the best bet, is not to vent the kiln, and build a
> separate, lets say, closet for it with a fan to draw the air outside.
>
> Jenny Krasner
> KrasJenn@worldnet.att.net
>
> original message:
> Brad,
> I'm sure you are aware, though others may not be, that the Bailey kiln
> vent is basically the same design, except the fan is "in line." That is,
> the flexible aluminum is spaced about 3/8" from the kiln to let some
> relatively cool room air leak in, along with the hot air drawn from the
> kiln, and the fan mounted on a wall or post near the kiln, part way between
> the kiln and the outdoor vent. The exhaust side of the fan flows through
> more dryer vent pipe or flex hose to the outdoors.
> Dave Finkelnburg, still watching winter snow drifting across the crocus
> blossoms.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Sondahl
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 10:13 AM
> Subject: Cheap kiln vent
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >I recently added a cheap kiln vent to my electric kiln. I bought some
> >flexible aluminum clothes dryer vent and attached it to the bottom
> >peephole of my kiln with three sheetmetal screws with added washers to
> >keep from ripping through the thin metal. At the other end of the
> >flexible section I used standard rigid aluminum dryer vent tubing to get
> >it out of a window. Outside I added a small fan mounted in an A-frame
> >of plywood (so as to protect it from rain/snow). From inside I can push
> >the vent tube closer to the fan to create more suction, or farther from
> >it for less. When I fire a bisque, I want more suction, to vent the
> >sulphur fumes. You can tell how effective the venting is by how hot the
> >pipe is getting. It never seems to get too hot to touch. No longer the
> >taste of sulphur when I fire...
> >Other folks might share their ideas on this as well...
> >--
> >Brad Sondahl
> >http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl/bradindex.html
> >Sondahl homepage http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
> >Original literature, music, pottery, and art
> >
Dave Finkelnburg on thu 15 apr 99
Jenny,
What you say would be very true, provided you pulled a lot of outside
air into the kiln. A properly designed kiln vent should pull only a very
slight amount of air through, however, just enough to make the kiln have a
"negative" air pressure inside. This will prevent fumes inside the kiln
from leaking into the kiln room, and allow them to be exhausted outdoors.
I use a Bailey vent I bought about 3 months ago. I don't think I've had
it long enough to say it's great. I can tell you that it hasn't extended my
kiln firing time enough to measure. Also, I'm firing to cone 6, with no
noticeable change from before. I just don't have fumes in the kiln room now
(smile).
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho where spring really is here this week!
-----Original Message-----
From: Jenny Krasner
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:33 AM
Subject: Kiln Vents
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi!
I'm going to buy a kiln vent! You've convinced me!!! does anyone out there
have
a strong opinion about which one to get, I was looking at the Bailey model
Vs.
the enviro-vent, or the hooded vent-a-kiln. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. It just seems to me, that by drawing out the air, you add hours
onto your firing time, as well as change the whole temperature range of the
kiln. Almost seems like the best bet, is not to vent the kiln, and build a
separate, lets say, closet for it with a fan to draw the air outside.
Jenny Krasner
KrasJenn@worldnet.att.net
original message:
Brad,
I'm sure you are aware, though others may not be, that the Bailey kiln
vent is basically the same design, except the fan is "in line." That is,
the flexible aluminum is spaced about 3/8" from the kiln to let some
relatively cool room air leak in, along with the hot air drawn from the
kiln, and the fan mounted on a wall or post near the kiln, part way between
the kiln and the outdoor vent. The exhaust side of the fan flows through
more dryer vent pipe or flex hose to the outdoors.
Dave Finkelnburg, still watching winter snow drifting across the crocus
blossoms.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Sondahl
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 10:13 AM
Subject: Cheap kiln vent
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I recently added a cheap kiln vent to my electric kiln. I bought some
>flexible aluminum clothes dryer vent and attached it to the bottom
>peephole of my kiln with three sheetmetal screws with added washers to
>keep from ripping through the thin metal. At the other end of the
>flexible section I used standard rigid aluminum dryer vent tubing to get
>it out of a window. Outside I added a small fan mounted in an A-frame
>of plywood (so as to protect it from rain/snow). From inside I can push
>the vent tube closer to the fan to create more suction, or farther from
>it for less. When I fire a bisque, I want more suction, to vent the
>sulphur fumes. You can tell how effective the venting is by how hot the
>pipe is getting. It never seems to get too hot to touch. No longer the
>taste of sulphur when I fire...
>Other folks might share their ideas on this as well...
>--
>Brad Sondahl
>http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl/bradindex.html
>Sondahl homepage http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
>Original literature, music, pottery, and art
>
Evan Dresel on fri 16 apr 99
I don't think the air through the vent has a significant impact on the
firing time. It doesn't take much air flow to remove the noxious
vapors/vapours. I like the fact that my Bailey vent has a damper to
adjust the air flow (a bit kludgy though) I usually adjust the air so
there is just barely inward flow at the top peephole (which you keep
open with this vent) -- test with a scrap of tissue.
The Orton & Enviro vents seem a little more carefully engineered but I
like having the motor on the wall away from the kiln. I think someone
with only a little skill could build a Bailey clone for a fraction of
the cost.
Under no circumstances would I recommend a hood-type vent. They just
won't work as well and why let those fumes get out into your room in the
first place? The down-draft vent does seem to help even out the firing,
as an added benefit.
-- Evan in W. Richland WA where the rabbit-brush is looking really perky
before the heat of summer sets in.
Jenny Krasner wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi!
>
> I'm going to buy a kiln vent! You've convinced me!!! does anyone out there ha
> a strong opinion about which one to get, I was looking at the Bailey model Vs.
> the enviro-vent, or the hooded vent-a-kiln. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated. It just seems to me, that by drawing out the air, you add hours
> onto your firing time, as well as change the whole temperature range of the
> kiln. Almost seems like the best bet, is not to vent the kiln, and build a
> separate, lets say, closet for it with a fan to draw the air outside.
>
> Jenny Krasner
> KrasJenn@worldnet.att.net
Gary & Carla Goldberg on fri 16 apr 99
Hi Jenny - I have a Orton KilnVent. It sits under your kiln and sucks
out the fumes/air from the bottom. I have always used it with my kiln,
so I have nothing to compare regarding firing time frame. However, the
manufacture says cooling time is 4-12 hours quicker (depends on kiln
size, load, etc.) Tests show it helps keep the kiln temperature
consistent. It was easy to install - just attach dryer ducting to the
vent and run it through the outside wall with a dryer vent. I don't
have any complaints and I like the fact that it is out of the way,
unlike the hood type that go above the kiln.
Carla in Alaska - Where it finally feels like spring!
Jenny Krasner wrote:
Original message----------------------------
> Hi!
>
> I'm going to buy a kiln vent! You've convinced me!!! does anyone out there ha
> a strong opinion about which one to get, I was looking at the Bailey model Vs.
> the enviro-vent, or the hooded vent-a-kiln. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated. It just seems to me, that by drawing out the air, you add hours
> onto your firing time, as well as change the whole temperature range of the
> kiln. Almost seems like the best bet, is not to vent the kiln, and build a
> separate, lets say, closet for it with a fan to draw the air outside.
>
> Jenny Krasner
> KrasJenn@worldnet.att.net
>
chris muldoon on sat 8 jan 00
Hi all,
I recently bought a Skutt 1027 kiln. I need to buy a vent
for it, and I was wondering if I could get some input. I am
considering either the Skutt vent or the Orton vent (both of
which are mounted on the kiln stand under the kiln), but I
am up for other suggestions. Are there any real differences
between the vents?
Thanks,
Christine
John Hesselberth on sun 9 jan 00
chris muldoon wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi all,
>I recently bought a Skutt 1027 kiln. I need to buy a vent
>for it, and I was wondering if I could get some input. I am
>considering either the Skutt vent or the Orton vent (both of
>which are mounted on the kiln stand under the kiln), but I
>am up for other suggestions. Are there any real differences
>between the vents?
>
>Thanks,
>Christine
Hi Christine,
There are real differences between the venting systems. Attached is a
piece I posted to Clayart last April; it is perhaps worth repeating now
as there have been several recent questions on venting systems. To
answer you specific question, there is little difference between Orton
and Skutt; however there are systems which I think are better
designed--read on to learn more.
--------------
With all the recent discussion on kiln vents, I think just a
little of
the dynamics of these systems might be helpful to people. There
are 3
basic kinds: 1. a hood over the kiln, 2. a blower located
directly
underneath the kiln with ductwork leading to a hole in the wall
and 3. a
blower located at the wall or even outside with duct connected
back to
the kiln.
In my opinion, #3 is far superior in design concept to the other
two.
Here's why. With #1 the kiln fumes/etc. first escape into the room
and
then have to be recaptured. Unless the hood is a virtual cyclone,
a lot
of the emissions will not be recaptured. It is a very haphazard
process
and even you walking by the kiln can stir up enough air to
diminish the
efficiency. #2 will work OK if the piping/duct between the blower
outlet
and the wall vent is absolutely air tight. This is necessary
because the
duct between the blower and the wall is on the positive pressure
side of
the blower. If there is even a tiny leak in that ductwork, you
will be
blowing the fumes from the kiln back into your studio. Since most
people
use dryer vent type slip fittings, it is very unlikely you will
get an
airtight system. If you do have this type of system, seal it up
very
well.
With #3 the duct that is in your studio is on the suction side of
the
blower so the duct is under very slight negative pressure. This
means
that if there is a small leak in the ductwork or its fittings you
are
sucking in room air and exhausting it through the wall. All the
exhausted fumes still go out through the wall. If it is a big
leak, this
will diminish the effectiveness of the system, but a small leak
will not
have much effect. The only thing that has to be airtight is the
connection from the blower discharge through the wall.
EnviroVent and KilnVent systems are of type #2; Bailey and L&L
systems
are of type #3. My recommendation is that you buy Type 3 if you
are
buying new. If you already have type 2 then be sure you have an
airtight
system. If you have type 1, replace it or, as one potter told me,
eliminate your exposure to the fumes by evacuation of the potter
during
firing.
John Hesselberth
Frog Pond Pottery
P.O. Box 88
Pocopson, PA 19366 USA
EMail: john@frogpondpottery.com web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"It is time for potters to claim their proper field. Pottery in its pure
form relies neither on sculptural additions nor on pictorial decorations.
but on the counterpoint of form, design, colour, texture and the quality
of the material, all directed to a function." Michael Cardew in "Pioneer
Pottery"
Bill Karaffa on wed 28 may 03
I just picked up a used Skutt EnviroVent. This is one of the sit under your
kiln type vents. There where no documents with it so... anybody got any
suggestions on how many and what size holes I should drill in my kiln?
Bill Karaffa
Firemouth Pottery and Gallery
http://fp1.centurytel.net/karaffa
Brenda Anderson on thu 29 may 03
You can get on Skutt's web site and pull up their operating manual which
will tell you the info you need.
Brenda
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Karaffa"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 9:26 PM
Subject: Kiln Vents
> I just picked up a used Skutt EnviroVent. This is one of the sit under
your
> kiln type vents. There where no documents with it so... anybody got any
> suggestions on how many and what size holes I should drill in my kiln?
>
> Bill Karaffa
> Firemouth Pottery and Gallery
> http://fp1.centurytel.net/karaffa
>
>
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ilene richardson on sun 23 jan 05
If you do an online search of building your own kiln downdraft vent you will
come across an interesting article/website, like I did somewhere in my
travels online that describes how to seriously make one yourself. This man
did it, uses it and says it works quite well.
He takes a piece of sheet metal and cut a hole in the center. Using sheet
metal screws he attached metal drying venting to the sheet. He put this
under his kiln, on the stand and then his kiln on top. He runs the metal
vent tube out a window or in his case ground level or near ground. The tube
extends a foot or so outdoors and then he built a little house, I'm not
kidding, like the size of a tiny doghouse with the front open and I guess
the back also. In this little house, where the tube runs to, remember its
only a foot or two from the house he puts a fan. Yes, a regular desk fan.
Depending on how much downdraft he wants will be regulated by how close he
puts the fan to the tube and the speed of the fan. The little house protects
his fan from the elements.
Perhaps he should use a large computer fan, the kind that is inside your
computer, install it in the duct work just prior to the tube going outside,
connect some electric to it and the small amount of air may be enough and
you wouldn't have to build the little fan house or worry about rain.
Ilene
Darin Lang on sun 23 jan 05
Home Depot/Lowes sells a small 120 volt fan built into a piece of
ducting. They come in either 4, 6, or 8 inch sizes. They can also be
hooked up to a line voltage thermostat so that it stops cycling when
the room cools down. Building a separate room isn't that complicated:
chances are your kiln sits in a corner, therefore two walls, the floor,
ceiling and electrical already exist. All that's needed is two more
walls, which are not structural, and so don't need to be built all that
well. A handful of 2x4s, a door, and some drywall. Put in a vent (hole
in the wall) to the outside for fresh air intake, it should be at least
equal in size, but preferably a size larger than your exhaust. Then
rig up ducts below and above to suck the air out of the room, a hood is
nice, but it is not necessary. A simple piece of duct pipe one at the
floor one at the ceiling, joined together and stepped up a size then
exhausted to the outdoors away from any windows or doors (where it
could blow back in) or traffic or pets. For instance, if you took one 8
inch inline fan and put in a tee just ahead of it that split it into
two 6 inch lines, or from a 6 inch fan down to two 4 inch lines. It's
important to reduce the size if you split the line with a tee. Probably
the four would be sufficient. Put one 4 inch inlet above the kiln the
other below it. The inline fan will suck the air out pulling new air in
from outside through the vented hole in the wall instead of the heated
or conditioned air from the studio.
Darin Lang
On Jan 23, 2005, at 9:52 AM, ilene richardson wrote:
>
>
> Perhaps he should use a large computer fan, the kind that is inside
> your
> computer, install it in the duct work just prior to the tube going
> outside,
> connect some electric to it and the small amount of air may be enough
> and
> you wouldn't have to build the little fan house or worry about rain.
>
> Ilene
>
bill edwards on tue 24 may 05
Mostly I leave my vent running because I often forget
to cut it off. But I have leared and was told that
kiln vents should always stay on till the heat index
is below 1000 F. Arnold Howard to me is an authority
on this and I would stick with whatever he says. Hey ARNOLD
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Richard Londraville on tue 8 jan 08
Hi-
I am thinking of buying a used Orton Kilnvent Jr. From what I can find,
these are made for test kilns. If my kiln is ~16"X18" firing chamber-will I
be OK? Is some venting better than none?
Thanks-
RL
--
Richard Londraville
29 Fish Ceramics
Marilu . on tue 8 jan 08
I have my test kiln vented with my large kiln. Better to avoid noxious fumes
as much as you can.- Marilu .
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