LINDA BLOSSOM on tue 12 aug 97
I think it is safe to say that no formula is perfect in the kiln wash
debate. I know that the flaking formulas are not only bad for your work
(pieces in the bottom of a sink can make you cry) but their greater sin is
that you cannot flip the shelves without great effort. It takes the wire
cup attachment that Marshall mentioned to remove the wash from one side and
the recoating of the othe side. I like to flip with each firing. I use
the cup attachment on the angle grinder. Lees' doesn't flake - but not
releasing, does that make it better than nothing if you end up grinding off
drips anyway? So, I went to the ITC 100 so at least I could get radiant
heat on my glazes and have now put the ITC 296a (topcoat) on my electric
kiln shelves and inside both the gas and electric kiln. This is on top of
the ITC 100. 296a is a very creamy substance that was actually pleasant to
mix with my hands. It is also very brushable which 100 is not and seems to
go on a little thicker. I will be firing these shelves soon and will let
you know if the double coating of 100 and 296a has more release ability.
I'd like to have something that can be used with a brush for repairs when I
have to remove drips and because of its ease of use, I would hope it could
be 296a. I'll be speaking with Alice Delkic today to see what she says.
Meanwhile, I'll be using my fireclay and grog to make some refractory
plates to fire runny items on coating them with epk and silica wash. I
have tried the hydrate recipes and the hydrate and kyanite ones. These
flaked as badly as the 50-50 ones.
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850