Millie Carpenter on sun 19 may 96
Hi. I have a hae to buy a Duncan "Pro kiln". It is 23 inches in
diameter. it only fires to ^8. so far I seem to fire in the ^5 to ^7
range. the only people that I know that have duncans are "hobby ceramics"
and they are in the very low fire range. Is this a good kiln to have. I
don't know that I will ever want to fire to ^10 but I am hesitent to give
up the option unless this is a great kiln.
TIA
Millie
Starbuilders on mon 20 may 96
Dear Millie,
If you're going to do hi-fire - and ^5-7 is still hi-fire - you probably
want to get (my opinion) a kiln rated to at least ^10. The ones I've seen
rated at ^8 are pretty thin walled and may not stand up to constant
hi-fire loads. Another word for ^5-7 is "mid-range", but most of the ^8
rated kilns I've seen are really geared to the lo-fire market. Be aware
that the rating is the highest possible temp you can take it to without
damage, and not the recommended daily firing range.
Katrina
On Sun, 19 May 1996, Millie Carpenter wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi. I have a hae to buy a Duncan "Pro kiln". It is 23 inches in
> diameter. it only fires to ^8. so far I seem to fire in the ^5 to ^7
> range. the only people that I know that have duncans are "hobby ceramics"
> and they are in the very low fire range. Is this a good kiln to have. I
> don't know that I will ever want to fire to ^10 but I am hesitent to give
> up the option unless this is a great kiln.
>
> TIA
>
> Millie
>
Hricum on wed 19 mar 97
My wife is getting a kilns. I dont know what to do. She wants me to
set it up(i haven't a clue how to)and learn to use it with her. Someone
please tell me where to look, read or plead for information on the
above topics.
having a heart attack
Ed O.
David Woodin Set Clayart digest on thu 20 mar 97
Try Skutt at http://www.skutt.com
Paul Monaghan on thu 20 mar 97
Hricum wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> My wife is getting a kilns. I dont know what to do. She wants me to
> set it up(i haven't a clue how to)and learn to use it with her. Someone
> please tell me where to look, read or plead for information on the
> above topics.
>
> having a heart attack
> Ed O.
Ed,
A lot more information is necessary uch as gas or electric, size, etc.,
etc.
Paul
father of Homo Clayartus
www.web2u.com/clayart
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com
WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com
The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB
"The Computer Secrets are hidden at www.web2u.com/secret"
j.kelly@genie.com on fri 21 mar 97
Reply: Item #7279912 from CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU@INET01#
Ed:
Every kiln I have ever bought came with a manual. I can give you the
advice which you can also get from most computer hackers -
When in doubt: Read the Manual.
I will give you another clue: If the kiln is electric, you will learn
to replace the electric elements.
May the EMF be with you.
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on wed 5 nov 97
If all of you who e-mailed me about kiln building tips will look at
Mishy Lowe's Home Page you will see the steps delineated that she took
in building her own car-kiln. Mishy has agreed that I can refer you to
her e-mail for any advice she might be able to offer, also. She is very
generous and, within time constraints, will help. Her Home Page url is
on the bottom of her message on yesterday's Clayart titled "Mug
Exchange."
Joyce
In the Mojave thankful for so many informative and encouraging posts
about our kiln experiences. AND still laughing over the responses to my
"rusted out old derelict" and "marching on tiptoe" comments. You are
one clever group! Literary,too. Fuunnny!
Larry Davis on sat 20 jun 98
I would like to build a brick kiln capable of firing 4' clay vases. If
anyone has a proven design that they are willing to share, or could lead me
in the right direction, I would certainly appreciate the information.
Doesn't seem to be much written on the subject. Thanks, Larry.
EARL ROBERTS on mon 13 jul 98
Dear Friends:
We would like to know what you think of Paragon kilns. Please email us at
ParagonInd@worldnet.att.net with your opinion.
If you have questions on kiln operation or repair, please ask us. We will try t
help you.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
Nancy Jonnum on wed 30 sep 98
Well, since you said, "The only dumb question is the unasked one," I thought I
would ask you a question. I have a very old kiln which my husband and I
built from a kit many years ago. It is a catenary arch, down draft, propane
kiln. It has been very reliable and has given us hundreds of even and not-
too-expensive firings. It is made of hard fire brick and is lined with soft
brick. I believe the mortar was made of silica sand mixed with a type of
clay, possible ball clay. Since it has been used so much and expands and
contracts each time it heats and cools, it is beginning to drop sand from the
mortar when it is fired. Of course this is disastrous to glazed pots. Do
you know of anything that I could use to coat the interior so that it would
control the sand? I considered kiln wash, but I am afraid that I would have
kiln wash and sand falling on my pots. Any advice would be very much
appreciated.
Sincerely, Nancy
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on fri 2 oct 98
Spray the interior with ITC -100. ITC advertises in Ceramic Monthly.
Brian Crocker on fri 2 oct 98
------------------
There is a cement wash ,, get onto your supplier of ceramic fibre,
Kind regards,
Brian Crocker.
4 Erica Street, Tea Tree Gully, S.A. 5091
AUSTRALIA.
=7B e.mail address =7D crocker=40picknowl.com.au
phone-fax 08 8264 4136
----------
=3E ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E Well, since you said, =22The only dumb question is the unasked one,=22 I=
thought I
=3E would ask you a question. I have a very old kiln which my husband and =
I
=3E built from a kit many years ago. It is a catenary arch, down draft, =
propane
=3E kiln. It has been very reliable and has given us hundreds of even and =
not-
=3E too-expensive firings. It is made of hard fire brick and is lined with =
soft
=3E brick. I believe the mortar was made of silica sand mixed with a type =
of
=3E clay, possible ball clay. Since it has been used so much and expands and
=3E contracts each time it heats and cools, it is beginning to drop sand =
from the
=3E mortar when it is fired. Of course this is disastrous to glazed pots. =
Do
=3E you know of anything that I could use to coat the interior so that it =
would
=3E control the sand? I considered kiln wash, but I am afraid that I would =
have
=3E kiln wash and sand falling on my pots. Any advice would be very much
=3E appreciated.
=3E Sincerely, Nancy
Joe Tate on mon 25 jan 99
Does anyone have information about kilns from Evenheat and Blue Diamond.
These were suggested to me by friends. The quality, service etc.
J.T.
Lili Krakowski on mon 25 jan 99
Have no catalogs on hand but I think Blue Diamond is or was sold by
Bailey's and they are a super suppleir and I would give them a call.
They ahve an #800.
Lili Krakowski
gail sheffield on tue 26 jan 99
I bought a Blue Diamond kiln, new, and it works just fine. Of course, it is
still new and I am not an experienced ceramicist. They are made in New
Orleans, and I bought mine from Ab Jackson, at New Orleans Clay Supply Co.,
(504) 947-3937. No e-mail address or web site.
Gail Sheffield
Covington, LA
Elias Portor on sun 18 apr 99
Anyone,
I am currently using a skutt kiln 1027- a manual type and have had
trouble with it overfiring and just plain tired of being up all night.
I bought a new one same size 1027-Zc and it is computerized. The
question came up, why didn't I just buy a computer panel to put on my
existing kiln and save some money. My old kiln is two years old and is
used nearly five days a week all year. I fire 02 and 06. I just
replaced the sensing rod which has improved the problem of overfiring.
Anyway the question is would a computerized panel adapted to my old kiln
work just as well as the new one or should I just bypass the trouble and
keep the new one? I'd appreciate a few comments on the subject. eportor
Kira Campbell on fri 14 jan 00
-------------------
I have been searching in vain for a comprehensive comparison of electric =
kilns
by manufacturers and capabilities. Where might I find this information, or =
do I
need to compile it mysef?
Many thanks,
Kira Campbell
kira=40squarefish.com
Cindy Strnad on tue 4 jul 00
Roseanne,
Nothing is ever trouble free, but for my money, computer controllers are
definitely worth the extra bucks. The farther you go in clay, the more
control you're likely to want over the rate of heating/cooling of your kiln,
and a computer controller will give you more of this control than anything
else currently out there. Be aware, however, that thermocouples are not
accurate at high temperatures. They're consistent, though, and once you get
to know your particular kiln, it's like having your watch set five minutes
fast--you look at it and almost without thinking, you make the adjustment.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
earthenv@gwtc.net
Roseanne Denchy on tue 4 jul 00
Hi, I'm a new potter and looking to buy a kiln. Thinking of either a Skutt
or Olympic w/computer controller. Does anyone have any opinions about
computer comptroller. Are they worth the extra cost and are they problem
free
Thank you for your comments.
R Denchy
Louis Katz on wed 5 jul 00
Get the Controller. The cost of these might be worth questioning if your time is
worth $0.25 U.S. per hour and your pots are similarly valued. I bet Nikom in
Thailand would buy one if he could get one at U.S. prices.
My minimal experiece is that they are less trouble than 6 switches, a kiln sitter
and interbox plugs.
Louis
Roseanne Denchy wrote:
> Hi, I'm a new potter and looking to buy a kiln. Thinking of either a Skutt
> or Olympic w/computer controller. Does anyone have any opinions about
> computer comptroller. Are they worth the extra cost and are they problem
> free
>
> Thank you for your comments.
>
> R Denchy
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Penny Hosler on wed 5 jul 00
Definitely get the controller. My relief tiles were breaking due to
the too-rapid cooling. Since I programmed a slow cool with my
controller I've had zero breakage. And am looking forward to
experimenting with crystals - gotta have a controller for that.
Penny in WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Roseanne Denchy
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 3:18 PM
Subject: Kilns
> Hi, I'm a new potter and looking to buy a kiln. Thinking of either
a Skutt
> or Olympic w/computer controller. Does anyone have any opinions
about
> computer comptroller. Are they worth the extra cost and are they
problem
> free
>
> Thank you for your comments.
>
> R Denchy
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Larry Phillips on sun 6 aug 00
Carolyn M Leung wrote:
>
> When I first bought my kilns, I had heard that 3-phase kilns while more
> expensive intially, spent less in terms of electricity. Is this true?
Not at all.
A kiln will have a power rating, usually measured in VA (volts x amps)
or watts (which is voltas x amps, but takes power factors into account).
You can pretty much ignore power factor in a kiln, because the load is
resistive.
So, you take the VA or watts (or, if your kiln is marked as to voltage
and current, just multiply voltage and current together to get VA), then
multiply it by hours, you get KWH, or watt-hours, and dividing that by
1000 gives you kilowatt-hours, which is the unit that the electric
company's charges are based on.
I have an 8000 watt kiln that has a 1 minute timer on it that turns the
elements on/off to regulate the heat rise. While it's on, it does
consume 8000 watts. Mine happens to be 220 volts, single phase, but it
will consume the same amount of energy as an 8000 watt kiln that
runs on 3-phase.
--
Hukt on fonix werkt fer me!
http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
Carolyn M Leung on sun 6 aug 00
When I first bought my kilns, I had heard that 3-phase kilns while more
expensive intially, spent less in terms of electricity. Is this true?
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
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mel jacobson on wed 27 sep 00
mark ward, and i trust his judgement, makes a good point.
i think my post was a bit harsh, and i apoligize for that.
there are many kilns out there, flat, arch, round that no one
could fire well, and that is a fact.
experience is the teacher of kilns.
a great deal of it.
each of us must find his or her own way, and it is difficult.
mark and many others have to pick up the pieces of many
of those poor kilns. it is a tough job.
thanks mark for reminding me.
mel
mark sent me a long letter with a great deal of information
privately....he is a good teacher.
FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
will edwards on wed 11 oct 00
Dear Clayarters,
Since so many of you have so much to offer it is only wise for me to ask =
a few
questions in order to help me decide on some new kilns. We are looking at=
buying 3- ^8 1227-3" (Commercial bricks) to replace some of the older kil=
ns in
our studio. This is a 9.9 Cu ft. kiln with digital controls made by Skutt=
=2E
(240 single phase)
I will be making two raku kilns from one of the older ones and refurbishi=
ng
the other extra kiln so we will have one for a back up in case we need it=
=2E
Maybe another bisque kiln? This gives us a total of 6 kilns.
Do any of you have information pro/con in helping me decide on what kiln =
would
be a good choice. Also envirovents will be installed but we do have a ful=
l
room exhust system that works by bringing in fresh air and pulling the fu=
mes
out through the roof. They are 3 of these installed but the envirovent is=
to
be used mostly to help settle out cool areas in the kilns.
I own one like the above mentioned but would love to know if I am the onl=
y one
who has had great luck with these kilns? Also has anyone experienced prob=
e
problems or digital problems in any of their kilns that would sway you to=
purchase digital controlled kilns in the future?
A private reply is fine. Its not a debating issue with me it is one wher=
e I
need your expertise in making such a call.
William Edwards
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
1
Martin Howard on thu 23 nov 00
Don, I do not see that introducing CO2 in that way makes any difference.
To get a reducing atmosphere in an electric kiln use a LITTLE SiC just where
you want it. Some on the list have suggested dead cats, while others collect
the accident victims from the highway.
Other types of firing, gas, pit, salt, Roman, etc. do it by closing down the
input of air, so that the firing will use the oxygen in the glaze rather
than the oxygen in the kiln atmosphere. Hence copper reds.
Well, that is how I understand it. Extra CO2 wouldn't do anything, except
make a reduction firing change into an oxidised firing, for a short time.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
Don Halton and Fernando Garcia on thu 23 nov 00
I have just subscribed to Clayart and this is my first contact. I have
been following with interest your discussion about reduction firings in
an electric kiln. I am wondering if anyone has tried introducing CO2
into an electric kiln using a lank of compressed CO2. The CO2 could
somehow be introduced into the kiln perhaps through a peep hole. I have
a kiln with an vent and wondered if I could introduce the CO2 through
one of the holes on the top that draws air into the kiln for the vent.
Don Halton
Jocelyn McAuley on fri 24 nov 00
Hi Don,
While the introduction of CO2 in an electric kiln displaces O2 in the
kiln, I don't believe this would contribute to a reduction fire. For one
thing, electrics don't need oxygen to work, and they don't put out fuel
into the atmosphere of the kiln.
A reduction atmosphere occurs when "stuff" in the atmosphere wants to bond
with oxygen more than the components in the glaze do. CO2 does not want
oxygen, and therefore will not seek it out in the kiln or in our glazes.
In a gas fire, hydrocarbons/fuel surround the glazed ware, and desparately
want to bind with oxygen when the energy, or heat of the kiln splits the
hydrocarbon.
There are a couple techniques potters have employed to play with
reduction in electric kilns, and searching through the clayart archives
should bring a couple of these out into daylight. The basic princible is
to put something into the kiln's atmosphere that wants oxygen. This can
include drilling a hole in your electric kiln and putting in a gas burner,
throwing wood into your kiln, or dripping oil into your hot kiln. (I am
not neccessarily endorsing these methods and really recommend researching
the consequences on your kiln these methods will bring.) Silicon carbide
is also used as a glaze ingrediant for "local reduction" in electric
firings. The Si and C grab oxygen (from your glaze, and atmosphere
somewhat?) yielding SiO2 and CO2.
I really enjoyed your question! It made me learn what the essential
components of our processes are. I am just learning, and am in no way an
expert... there are many on this list who have contemplated and
experimented with these questions much more than I.
Good luck
Jocelyn
--
Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
Kathy Spiro on wed 27 oct 04
Does anyone have experience with Euclid kilns?
Earl Brunner on wed 27 oct 04
I get elements from them. Like the elements.
BTW I learned a neat trick on the last kiln that we rewired. Often the elements come compressed, that is, wrapped tighter than the length of the groove you intend to fit them to. So, measure the groove, so you know how long the element needs to be, then pre-stretch it to the right length before attempting to install it. That may seem pretty obvious, but this is the 6th kiln I've done and I just now figured it out......
Kathy Spiro wrote:
Does anyone have experience with Euclid kilns?
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Earl Brunner
e-mail: brunv53@yahoo.com
Rhonda Kale on mon 16 may 05
I have read the archives and what replies I have recieved, three brands are mentioned over and over.
(1) L&L
(2) Skutt
(3) Paragon
If you have any of these would you email me with what you like/dislike about it and any problems if you have any long term use of a certain kiln?
It would be greatly appreciated.
Rhonda Kale
31.23595 N, 85.40529 W
Potters Council Member
qndivauniv@earthlink.net
Richard Mahaffey on fri 15 jul 05
Mel,
If you are building a gas kiln and not building a car kiln I ask why
not? A car kiln will save your back and help prevent other injuries.
Also against scrimping on materials again I would quote Fredrick Henry
Royce, "The quality will be remember long after the price is forgotten".
There are people who drive his cars across the US to the national
meeting of the Rolls-Royce (that FH Royce) owners club. They drive
even the oldest cars.
Remarkably, many with original parts that came with the car when new.
Of how many model T's can one say that, scant few if any- cheap car
made cheaply to be cheap.
I know one fellow who drove his 1911 Silver Ghost from Virginia to
California including a stop at the top of Pike's Peak and back,
Nothing funnier than seeing a well turned out Rolls-Royce at the drive
up window at Mickey D's.
Best,
Rick
Ps. Something, not matter how humble, that is rightly done becomes
noble". FH Royce
Robert W. Anderson on thu 7 feb 08
"Kiln Snobbery".....Well said, Mel.
Now, tell everyone what ya really
think...!!!
Bob Anderson
Antigo, Wis.
=================
http://webpages.charter.net/rwapottery/index.html
dayton grant on wed 23 sep 09
Hi Lee, I can't give you the plans for Michael's kiln but I have a differen=
t
design that is in the process of being patented (with Micheal's blessing)
that's actually a little faster (cone 14 in 1 hr., melted all the shelves
and posts on about $5 worth of natural gas) , I'm selling one for $4000 ($
not for long $) with half up front for materials, we can make some kind of =
a
deal if you really want one. There are several designs around that claim to
be 'fast firing', but I suggest you get a personal demonstration or at leas=
t
a real time video of the claims before buying anything that sounds too good
to be true, because it just is'nt that simple. Is that Mingei list still
around? , I fell out of touch with it and I have'nt been able to find it
again, please let me know, thanx
Hi Vicki, I've been studying fast firing for 18yrs and the shortest safe
cool time for cone ten stoneware is 7hrs, but 8 or 9hrs is safer especially
for porcelain or any clay-body with really fine aggregate (sand)...you can
fire as fast as you want after the ware has been bisqued, I mean you can
literally open a space in the door (only if you can 'safely' do so) and put
glazed bisque into a cone ten kiln, but if you take it out too soon it will
crack apart before your very eyes, so the answer is 7 hours if you feel
lucky and 9 hours if you really want to play it safe, I had pictures and
video of the ware that came out of this firing but I made a false move with
the computer and I lost 'em all, sorry.
And Steve S., I'm glad you liked the video, thanx for looking.
Thanx,Dayton
Deborah Thuman on sat 15 may 10
I'm in a very fortunate position. Jim works at the local university
and we can each take a clay class for free. I chose to learn how to
fire the kilns. I learned the hard way that it's best to put the cone
in the kiln sitter before loading the kiln. I learned how to program
the computer controller. I learned that with electric kilns, I like
the computer controller because it is hard for me to remember little
things like turn the kiln up another notch now.
Next, I learned how to fire the Blaauw. Wow. Push buttons, walk away,
and let it do its thing. I liked that.
Next, I learned how to fire the fully manual gas kiln. WOW! I really
like this kiln! I can do all sorts of things with it. I can get true
carbon trapping on shino (as soon as I figure out all the best carbon
trapping spots). I can get some wild things happening with reduction.
Two glazes that were major PITAs in oxidation are magnificent in
reduction.
So far, I've only worked with ^6. Jim likes ^10 and I want to do a ^10
reduction firing, but he gets too impatient to see the results and
puts his work in with the other students.
The advantages of this approach? We will eventually have our own kiln.
It will be gas and fully manual. I know this because I know how I like
to work.
Kiln firing is an option, not a requirement of any clay class here. We
chose to learn - and I'm very glad I did. The more kilns I fire, the
more I know about what I want when we do have our own kiln.
Deb Thuman
http://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=3D5888059
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Deb-Thumans-Art-Page/167529715986
Sasha Wooldridge on tue 2 nov 10
I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an elect=
=3D
ric
(or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.=
=3D
Larry Kruzan on tue 2 nov 10
Hi Sasha,
I run a pretty good size electric kiln on my home service. There is a 200Am=
p
service to the house so a kiln that pulls 100amps is no problem. I also hav=
e
a very small gas kiln at home that runs around 250,000Btu. We make sure to
not run the two furnaces at the same time as the gas kiln.
If you are not sure what services you have, that is the first hing to check=
.
If you have a old 60Amp service - well its possible, but don't turn on a
blow dryer or too many lights.
Feel free to email me with any questions, happy to help.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
Subject: Kilns
I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an electri=
c
(or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.=
=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16180)
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Snail Scott on tue 2 nov 10
On Nov 2, 2010, at 8:28 AM, Sasha Wooldridge wrote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an
> electric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it
> off.
All modern houses and most older refitted ones
have sufficient service. You need 220 volt current;
that's the main thing. If you have an electric range
and oven or an electric dryer (which are also 220V
appliances) you almost certainly can manage a
typical electric kiln.
Some old houses may not have a lot of amperage
even if they have the voltage; if so, you'll need to
avoid running the stove or the AC while the kiln runs,
but majority of houses don't have any problem at all.
The most typical type of electric kilns were designed
with the home hobbyist in mind, and are actually
intended for installation in residential settings.
You do want to be sure to get a kiln designed for a
single-phase circuit. Most are, but if you get a used
kiln at a school-surplus auction, for instance, it may
be three-phase instead, which is more common for
industrial or commercial use. Just check the plate
on the side of the kiln for all the electrical info.
Three-phase kilns can be re-wired, but why bother
unless it's dirt-cheap? Wait for a single-phase kiln.
Especially since you have a good day job, you
aren't limited to what's cheapest.
As for location: I sympathize with your reluctance
to put it outdoors in New York state, but there is
a middle ground: a basic pre-fab Tuff Shed will
suffice, and might fit close to your back door. No
permits in some areas, and not too expensive.
Gas kiln? Not yet, perhaps. Not only do very few
homes (nearly none) have sufficient gas service,
but learning to fire one is NOT a do-it-yourself
operation. If you want to try gas firing, work with
people who use them, study various types of gas
kilns, and use them often before you decide on
that course of action. A gas kiln can be sexy,
but it's a much bigger commitment. It's also not
necessarily more 'professional'; lots of big-name
pros use electric firing exclusively. It's different,
but until you are sure that those differences are
necessary to your work, I'd wait. Even if you do
someday choose to buy or build a gas kiln (and
many people do build their own), the electric kiln
can continue to serve you well alongside the
gas kiln.
One fuel-firing option that's a bit less installation
intensive than a natural gas kiln is a propane kiln.
A small one can be fired from portable BBQ-style
tanks and needs no utility infrastructure. It will still
take practice to get good results from, though. All
fuel kilns rely heavily on operator skill, far more
than electric ones do.
-Snail
Arnold Howard on tue 2 nov 10
From: "Sasha Wooldridge"
I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can
get an electric
(or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential
electric
service? I always thought I would need commercial service to
pull it off.=3D
------------
It depends on the size kiln you want and the electric
service available at your house. Some older homes do not
have the capacity to handle a large kiln.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
C Sullivan on tue 2 nov 10
Mornin' Sasha
If you have a dedicated 240V elect. plug-in at your house, i would highly
recommend a Skutt KM1027. Folks have had good results with L&L kilns too,
and they tell me the elements are easier to replace. Everyone i've talked
to, including myself, has had trouble with the Paragon kilns. Also, on the
gas kilns, Olympic kilns give folks a huge challenge to fire up to glaze
temps, and you want to make darn sure you vent them properly, but having a
gas kiln gives you the option of reduction firing.
Good luck with your quest.
Chae
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 6:28 AM, Sasha Wooldridge wr=
ote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an
> electric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.
Lee Love on tue 2 nov 10
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Sasha Wooldridge w=
=3D
rote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an elect=
=3D
ric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.
Sasha, gas kilns don't usually have special electrical requirements.
You can always have your service upgraded for an electric kiln.
--=3D20
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Pottery by John on tue 2 nov 10
Sasha,
There are small kilns that will run off of a 115/120 volt circuit, but you
probably want something that has a bit more room, and those will work fine
with a 220/240 volt circuit, available in most residences. It depends on th=
e
size of the electrical service and the available capacity in the main
electrical panel.
In my home, built in 1965, all the available capacity was used in the
original panel, so when I remodeled my kitchen a subpanel was added so the
circuits could be put in to Code. When I installed my first electric kiln,
a second subpanel was added. So, there are ways to solve the electrical
service needs.
Now you can add criteria to places you may look at for housing....spare
electrical capacity, lol.
John Lowes
Sandy Springs, Georgia
http://wynhillpottery.weebly.com/
William & Susan Schran User on tue 2 nov 10
On 11/2/10 9:28 AM, "Sasha Wooldridge" wrote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an elect=
ric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.
Residential electrical service is 240/220 volts.
Your limitations may involve amps available depending on space available in
your circuit box, may need additional box.
Costs to hook up an electric kiln will vary depending on wire size required=
,
distance from circuit box, a service disconnect if hard wired.
Most kiln manufacturers will have information on their web site about what
is needed to hook up their kilns.
Most commercial electrical service is often 208 volts.
Most residential gas pressure service is 7 wci (water column inches), a
rather low pressure. Some smaller gas fired kilns will work with this
pressure limitation.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Nancy Spinella on tue 2 nov 10
Electric kilns may be purchased as single-phase (1P) or three-phase (3P) --
most homes are 1P, most businesses are 3P. If your home wiring is 100amp
service (or higher), you should be able to run a kiln with no problem unles=
s
you have more than one dryer, electric stove, and 220v air conditioner that
all run simultaneously. :) I found a great electrical load worksheet once,
and if I find it again I'll post it here.
If you're not sure what service you have, you can ask your electric company
or look at your service panel. If you have fuses in your main box, you
probably have 60amp service (and I really wouldn't recommend a kiln); if yo=
u
have breakers then it gets a little trickier. At the main breaker switch,
there should be an imprint of a number that would be your service
amperage...unless someone illegally installed a box that says "100" when yo=
u
still have 60amp service, which has been known to happen. :/ A good way to
tell if you have 60 amp service is to try to run several things (that are
on the same circuit) at once: toaster, fan, stove, microwave -- and if the
circuit trips it's 60amp. I lived in an old house for a while that would
trip the breaker anytime the toaster popped up, no matter what else was (or
wasn't) running; you couldn't run the washer AND the air conditioner at the
same time, either. Fun times!
Most kilns (except for some very small ones) need a dedicated 220v line,
which can be installed by an electrician if you don't have one that you can
use (the wiring and outlet required for the kiln may or may not be what you
already have in place). In many places a permit is required to do this as
well, so check with your local code officer. Permits don't cost a lot.
Obvious disclaimer: If you rent, don't do anything without speaking to your
landlord! He or she may not want the liability of having a kiln on the
premises.
Good luck!!
--Nancy
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Sasha Wooldridge wr=
ote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an
> electric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.
--
www.twitter.com/nanspins
www.wix.com/nanspin/pottery
May Luk on tue 2 nov 10
Hi Sasha;
I just moved into a studio at the back of a carriage house in
Brooklyn, NY. It is in a residential area and I have a KM1018.
(http://www.skutt.com/products/km-1018-3NEW.html) It is hard-wired
professionally. The space I have is a half basement with one 2'x2'
window facing the bottom of a backyard. When I fire, I have the vent
on and a box fan taking the hot air out. It would be a problem in the
summer as it gets very hot and not working condition right after a
kiln firing. (I fired a few cone 9 firings and there wasn't any
black-out in the neighborhood yet)
The kiln seems to be small, but I think it's a good size for a
beginner who will tests a lot and a part-time production potter. The
potter whom I inherited the kiln from used this kiln in this location
for 10 years working full-time supporting himself and a family. If I
stay in this location and if I need more output capacity, I would buy
another kiln of the same size, install a switch, and have them fire in
tandem.
I suggest you get your own kiln as soon as you can, if you are serious
about your production pottery endeavor. You really need to know your
kiln and do all your glaze tests in there. My kiln died and I have to
fire in 3 different kilns in the last 3 months to meet deadlines. I
have enough seconds to make me look like an unprofessional jerk to my
customers. It is not a good scenario for a production potter who needs
consistent results.
Best Regards
May
Brooklyn NY
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Sasha Wooldridge w=
rote:
> I've been doing a little research and I'm wondering if I can get an elect=
ric
> (or gas, may as well ask about that too) kiln on residential electric
> service? I always thought I would need commercial service to pull it off.
--
http://twitter.com/MayLuk
http://www.ceramicsbrooklyn.com/
Snail Scott on wed 3 nov 10
On Nov 3, 2010, at 3:19 PM, Sasha Wooldridge wrote:
> I don't own the house and all
> that. It would be hard to talk the landlords into altering
> electrical wiring
> for something they don't need themselves...
You may not need to actually alter the wiring.
Likely, you can just add a new breaker into
the existing panel, with a dedicated line out
to your kiln shed. It won't affect the present
electrical system in any way, and it can be
removed just as easily if you move out. It's
really no big deal.
I've installed kilns in several rental houses.
I suggest just saying you'd like to add a circuit
with its own breaker, installed by a licensed
electrician, and will remove it when you move
out _IF_ the landlord doesn't want to keep it.
Present it as a property improvement, paid
for entirely by you.
-Snail
Sasha Wooldridge on wed 3 nov 10
I know what you mean about the 60 amp service! We used to live in an
apartment where we couldn't use the microwave without unplugging the frid=
=3D
ge.
Very annoying. My only issue here is that I don't own the house and all
that. It would be hard to talk the landlords into altering electrical wir=
=3D
ing
for something they don't need themselves. Thanks for the detailed respons=
=3D
e!
Nancy Spinella on sat 6 nov 10
The wiring required will depend entirely on what kiln you have or want. Yo=
u
can't run a 23amp kiln with the same wiring used to go to a regular 110v
outlet -- you won't get enough power.
If the plug configuration is the same, you might be able to get away with
using the dryer outlet - again, depending on the kiln. Most dryers are
23amps, as are many smaller kilns.
But then that brings you back to checking with the landlords to make sure
they're okay with you having a kiln in the house. The heat they put off
creates a major liability, and if not vented will also put off a few fumes.
On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Snail Scott wrot=
e:
> On Nov 3, 2010, at 3:19 PM, Sasha Wooldridge wrote:
>
>> I don't own the house and all
>> that. It would be hard to talk the landlords into altering
>> electrical wiring
>> for something they don't need themselves...
>>
>
>
> You may not need to actually alter the wiring.
> Likely, you can just add a new breaker into
> the existing panel, with a dedicated line out
> to your kiln shed. It won't affect the present
> electrical system in any way, and it can be
> removed just as easily if you move out. It's
> really no big deal.
>
> I've installed kilns in several rental houses.
> I suggest just saying you'd like to add a circuit
> with its own breaker, installed by a licensed
> electrician, and will remove it when you move
> out _IF_ the landlord doesn't want to keep it.
> Present it as a property improvement, paid
> for entirely by you.
>
> -Snail
>
--
www.twitter.com/nanspins
www.wix.com/nanspin/pottery
Bill Merrill on fri 15 jun 12
It is advisable on newly constructed kilns not to use all stretcher =3D
courses on the double wall, as the walls will separate. On every 4th or =
=3D
5th row of bricks lay a header course of brick, doing this will connect =3D
the two walls and keep the two rows together. =3D20
=3D20
On hard brick kilns, when laying the interior of the kiln with the =3D
hard brick, in a stretcher course, it would be advisable to mortar the =3D
brick if using the kiln fot salt. The exterior is probably insulating =3D
brick and they could stand alone or use expanded steel mesh or thin =3D
steel (16 gauge) plate attached to the angle iron uprights on each =3D
corner of the kiln.=3D20
=3D20
On all the Bailey Pro gas car kilns the walls are not mortared and =3D
in time the kiln has a few wall cracks which act as an expansion joint. =
=3D
=3D20
I have built soft brick and hard brick kilns and use a suspended roof =3D
system and have not had any problems because of the lack of an expansion =
=3D
joint. If an expansion joint is used just shorten a brick on the wall =3D
about 3/16" and fill the gap with fiber fax.
=3D20
On the suspended roof kilns (soft brick) I compress the individual rows =3D
and have never used a spring on each row. I have fired one of the kilns =
=3D
at school over 500 times and the roof is like new, no cracked brick etc. =
=3D
=3D20
=3D20
On the attachment there are pictures of the suspended flat roof system =
=3D
and pictures of some of the kilns I have built. There is one that is =3D
clad in stainless steel sheeting with black angle iron.
=3D20
Bill
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25594880@N04/ =3D
=3D
com/photos/25594880@N04/> =3D20
=3D20
=3D20
=3D20
=3D20
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