Gary W. Wagoner on mon 24 mar 97
I've seen a simple device for winding your own electric kiln
elements, and as I need to replace the elements in a couple of kilns, I'm
thinking I should probably check out that option for economy's sake. Anyone
have advice about the process--e.g. where to buy Kanthal wire in spools,
how to determine the proper length/ohms of resistance for each element,
whether there are real savings to be had from winding your own,etc. I think
I can figure out how to make the winding tool--the one I saw was just a
metal rod set horizontally in a support, with a crank attatched to one end.
But if anyone has better ideas about how the winding should be done, that
information would be appreciated also.
Thanks,
Gary Wagoner
Auburn University
Pat Wehrman on tue 25 mar 97
Hi all-
I don't know about the possibilities of winding your own elements, but
I've found a Canadian company that sells elements and even including shipping,
the price was 40% less than I thought I would have to pay. The company is
Euclid's Elements. They advertise in CM. Pleasant to deal with and could be
worth a call for you.
Pat wehrman@goldrush.com
Brad Sondahl on tue 25 mar 97
The roll-your-own query inspired me to see if Duralite still sells the
bare Kanthal A-1 wire. (Duralite custom rolls elements (860-379-3113).
They do. Current prices for 16 gauge wire are 19.50/lb. There's a
minimum 25.00 order, so I ordered two pounds. That will make, as I
recall, about 6 elements for my old Crucible kiln (which is very cheap).
If you send them all the pieces of your old element, they will size and
price it for what they would make, or tell you what how long to make
yours. Then it's a question of using a rod the right lenghth, and
winding the wire on compactly. Duralite has for the asking a photocopy
of info on resistance per foot per gauge of wire, etc. I've used a
simply welded crank and steel rod (with a slot cut in the end to hook
the wire in to start. Lately I've used a variable speed drill with rod
stuck through a hole in mounted wood to stabilize it. It would help to
have one person run the drill and another to guide the wire. The ends
are fairly easy if you use loop ends-- tougher if they're supposed to be
just tight twists.
--
Brad Sondahl
bsondahl@camasnet.com
http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
PO Box 96, Nezperce ID 83543
Gary W. Wagoner wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've seen a simple device for winding your own electric kiln
> elements, and as I need to replace the elements in a couple of kilns, I'm
> thinking I should probably check out that option for economy's sake. Anyone
> have advice about the process--e.g. where to buy Kanthal wire in spools,
> how to determine the proper length/ohms of resistance for each element,
> whether there are real savings to be had from winding your own,etc. I think
> I can figure out how to make the winding tool--the one I saw was just a
> metal rod set horizontally in a support, with a crank attatched to one end.
> But if anyone has better ideas about how the winding should be done, that
> information would be appreciated also.
> Thanks,
> Gary Wagoner
> Auburn University
Ron Roy on tue 25 mar 97
snip
>But if anyone has better ideas about how the winding should be done, that
>information would be appreciated also.
>Thanks,
>Gary Wagoner
>Auburn University
Hi Gary,
I've seen a wheel used for winding elements. Set the rod (of correct
thickness) in a bat on your whell and set the speed at slow.
Ron Roy
Toronto, Canada
Evenings, call 416 439 2621
Fax, 416 438 7849
kinoko@junction.net on tue 25 mar 97
All, and Wagoner, Although I have wound Kanthal as well as other types of
wire in emergency situations,I would hardly advise the excercise except as
an excercise. The "Rod and crank" works but is decidedly unhandy for very
long elements...however, if one mounts a 36" long 7/16" piece of Dril rod in
a slow-moving lathe with one end of the Kanthal wire fastened in the lathe
chuck along with the Drill rod,this is a beginning. Prior to mounting the
wire and the rod,the end of the wire must be slipped through a small hole in
the underside of a block of hardwood. The block should be shaped somewhat
like a large mixing spoon with the hole drilled approx'ly 1" or more from
the end of the block. Pressing the end of the block against the turning rod,
the wire is fed through the top of the block to emerge from the bottom and
effect the turning and forming of the element. The wire must be fed smoothly
onto the Drill rod and the reel must be freely turning and mounted some
distance from the block. While any book on spring-forming may give you the
calculations,I would caution you to remember that 100' (feet) of 16G Kanthal
will only result in a few feet of element. One must be very careful not to
stress the Kanthal wire when forming it since this will effect the
electrical characteristics of the finished element by 'hardening' the wire
and possibly making it difficult to bend around corners in a kiln. But,hey
this is good practice should you ever be forced to work in a spring factory.
Good luck. One additional comment: Do not buy your wire by the foot unless
you wish a financial bath. DonM>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> I've seen a simple device for winding your own electric kiln
>elements, and as I need to replace the elements in a couple of kilns, I'm
>thinking I should probably check out that option for economy's sake. Anyone
>have advice about the process--e.g. where to buy Kanthal wire in spools,
>how to determine the proper length/ohms of resistance for each element,
>whether there are real savings to be had from winding your own,etc. I think
>I can figure out how to make the winding tool--the one I saw was just a
>metal rod set horizontally in a support, with a crank attatched to one end.
>But if anyone has better ideas about how the winding should be done, that
>information would be appreciated also.
>Thanks,
>Gary Wagoner
>Auburn University
>
>
Steve Williams on tue 25 mar 97
Gary W. Wagoner wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've seen a simple device for winding your own electric kiln
> elements, and as I need to replace the elements in a couple of kilns,
Gary,
"Electric Kiln Construction for Potters" by Robert Fournier & published by
Van Nostrand Reinhold (ISBN 0-442-30134-0) 1977 talks about calculating &
winding your own elements. Duralite Inc. or Euclids Elements might sell the
wire. They are also good sources for prewound replacement elements for any
kiln. Usual disclaimers.
Steve Williams
In beautiful downtown Matney NC where the recovery for Carpal Tunnel Surgery
is going quite well.
Kenneth D Westfall on tue 25 mar 97
Gary
I think you will find that winding your own elements is not cost
effective and better left to someone with a machine to wind them for you.
On the other hand buying bulk wound element could save you money. If
you have different kilns, bulk elements are a definite plus. You can cut
an element for almost any kiln, no need to keep three and four different
elements on hand. I think Duralite which is advertised in Ceramics
Monthly sells element in bulk and there Tex. can tell you how measure
for the correct amp draw and heat output.
Kenneth Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
potter-ken@juno.com
| |
|
