Sylvia See on sat 27 sep 97
Hi all;
Thanks for the posts on Jepson's bats. I'll try adding the slip inside the
ring of my 7" bats to see if it helps with them stopping and lifting while
throwing. I never have the problem with his bigger bats as they fit
perfectly. As a further note, I have pushed Stephen to sell us molds to
make our own bats. I like to throw on more than one wheel at a time and
wanted alot of bats, but really can't afford to ship too many of them here
in Canada. He is reluctant of course, but I just can't afford to get them
here. For that reason I am going to try the slumphump mold system and I can
make more bats when I need them. Has anyone out there made these bats and
how do you like them? If push comes to shove, I really like the Stephen's
system and will make my own. Make the mold for the bats first and then make
the ring to fit. I have a ton of 3/4" bats made from chipboard and covered
with arborite which I didn't like but they would make an excellent ring to
hold my own bats. The trick I think is to get the mold made for the bats
first and then make the ring to fit the bats.
As usual, I'm the weary ol lady with more time than money. Hoping I still
want to spin mud after I get my bricks and bats made.
Sylvia See Claresholm, Alberta sylviac@telusplanet.net
Committee: - a group of men who individually can do nothing....
but as a group, decides nothing can be done.
Laurence J. Peter
June Perry on mon 29 sep 97
Dear Laurence:
You can probably just make your own mold of the plaster bat. Just set up a
level surface of smooth material (the rectangular formica top pieces that
they cut out to make room for sinks would be good to use). Brush some sizing
on that. Place your plaster bat on top and size that as well. Make a collar
out of an old piece of linoleum or similar material that you can clamp or
glue closed; and have the collar extend a few inches away and above the
plaster bat. You can put some sizing on the collar as well.
You can use the standard mix of potters plaster - around 2 1/2 to 3lbs of
plaster per quart of water. There are charts on this availble.But if I
remember correctly, this is the proportion I used over twenty years ago when
I made my first plaster bats. You should be able to find similar information
in many of the all round pottery instruction books.
Put the water in a bucket you don't need to keep afterwards. You can spray
the bucket with one of the cookings sprays to make it easier to clean if you
want. Put your weighed plaster through a kitchen type sieve. Slowly add the
water and stick your hand in there and mix slowly (keeping your hand
submerged to help avoid bubbles forming). Mix about a minute or so. If you
feel it getting warm immediately get your hand out and pour the plaster into
your mold. Have a stick ready to run across the top of the linoleum or other
stiff material collar to remove the excess plaster and give a nice smooth
flat top. Let it set up and then remove the collar and lift up to release
the plaster bat that's underneath. Let it mold dry slowly and very well, for
about a week before using.
This is your master and you can use it repeatedly to pour other bats, using
the same technique and mixture you used to make the master.
I have not done much plaster work - just a few bats, hump molds, and my
wedging table. There's a wonderful book out on making molds and it comes with
a chart showing the proper proportion of water and plaster for the various
plasters on the market.
I'm sure some of our clayart members can add a great deal more info on this.
I have never made a mold of a plaster bat but it should be doeable with the
right amount and type of sizing.
It's also a good idea to have some other items sized and leveled so that you
can use your excess plaster. I've made some nice plaster bats using pyrex pie
plates. I also scrounge around garage sales and Good Will stores to find
small metal square and other odd shaped dishes and pans that would be
suitable for hump molds/drape molds.
Regards,
June
Art Powell on mon 29 sep 97
> ----------------------------Original message---by Sylvia See------------------
As a further note, I have pushed Stephen to sell us molds to
> make our own bats. I like to throw on more than one wheel at a time and
> wanted alot of bats, but really can't afford to ship too many of them here
> in Canada.
I made my own bats to fit the Jeppson ring. Put the ring on the
wheelhead; placed a coil of clay on the ring; used a needle tool to
smooth the inside edge; and used petroleum jelly to release the
plaster.
Made 35 seven-inch bats, 18 nine-inch and 14-12 inch bats and
planning on making some more. They're not as nice as his but
they work well.
Art Powell,
Black Bear Pottery,
Kitamaat Village, B.C.
apowell@yellowhead16.net
Overlooking the Douglas Channel on the Northwest Coast of British
Columbia - and just returned from a near-record sales day at the
Terrace Farmers' Market.
He is reluctant of course, but I just can't afford to get them
> here. For that reason I am going to try the slumphump mold system and I can
> make more bats when I need them. Has anyone out there made these bats and
> how do you like them? If push comes to shove, I really like the Stephen's
> system and will make my own. Make the mold for the bats first and then make
> the ring to fit. I have a ton of 3/4" bats made from chipboard and covered
> with arborite which I didn't like but they would make an excellent ring to
> hold my own bats. The trick I think is to get the mold made for the bats
> first and then make the ring to fit the bats.
> As usual, I'm the weary ol lady with more time than money. Hoping I still
> want to spin mud after I get my bricks and bats made.
> Sylvia See Claresholm, Alberta sylviac@telusplanet.net
> Committee: - a group of men who individually can do nothing....
> but as a group, decides nothing can be done.
> Laurence J. Peter
>
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