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mouth atomizers

updated tue 19 oct 99

 

Richard Gralnik on tue 9 apr 96

For the person who was looking into a mouth atomizer or whatever those
lung compressor powered airbrushes are called (they aren't really
manual are they?), someone here once suggested attaching a length of
plastic pipe to the thing so your mouth, nose, face, etc can be
further away from the stuff you're spraying. It also gives you a
little more time to go "Oops!" if you accidentally inhale...

It also gives you a little more flexibility about aiming it.

Richard G.
who trimmed a 15 pound, 18" platter down to about 10 pounds at 1 am
last night, in Los Angeles

Pduncan on mon 21 apr 97

Can anyone give me some hints on the correct use of a "mouth atomizer"?
You know, the little metal tubes gizmos that are hinged, and one goes in
your mouth, and the other goes into the liquid you wish to spray. I
bought one with the intention of using it to spray leatherhard ware with
blushes of slip and or oxides/water. I have fiddled around with it to
no avail. I've tried different viscosities of liquids, different
volumes of the liquids, and I just can not get the thing to work at
all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA Pam

Kenneth D Westfall on tue 22 apr 97

Pam,
The two pipes should be held at right angles to each other
(perpendicular). The liquid needs to be fairly thin and you need to
apply a lot of air to get it to work. At school we hooked them up to
compressed air hose. Saves a lot on the old lungs and you can spray
thicker liquids.

Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
potter-ken@juno.com
Don't get stuck in the mud pies K&T

Vivian Mills on tue 22 apr 97

Pduncan wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Can anyone give me some hints on the correct use of a "mouth atomizer"?

> blushes of slip and or oxides/water. I have fiddled around with it to
> no avail. I've tried different viscosities of liquids, different
> volumes of the liquids, and I just can not get the thing to work at
> all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA Pam


You have to blow REALLY hard! When your face starts turning red, it
starts to work!
Vivian in Florida.

kurt l. wild on tue 22 apr 97

Pduncan wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Can anyone give me some hints on the correct use of a "mouth atomizer"?
> You know, the little metal tubes gizmos that are hinged, and one goes in
> your mouth, and the other goes into the liquid you wish to spray. I
> bought one with the intention of using it to spray leatherhard ware with
> blushes of slip and or oxides/water. I have fiddled around with it to
> no avail. I've tried different viscosities of liquids, different
> volumes of the liquids, and I just can not get the thing to work at
> all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA Pam

First of all, and it may seem too simple to mention, but the atomizer
must be spread out to form an "L" shape but of course it would be turned
upside down. Then be sure both tubes are clear. Can you see down the
tubes? If the tubes are not clear run a wire through them to clean them
out. You might have to move the arms of the atomizer open or together a
tiny bit but for the most part the upside down "L" should do it. Again,
and to me the obvious, put one tube into the liquid and the other in your
mouth and blow. Try water first. If you can spray water you've learned
how to use the atomizer. Then if your glaze or slip does not spray you
are not blowing hard enough or the liquid is too thick. Guess that's
abut as much as anyone can say. Good luck!!

Susan Stern on tue 22 apr 97

Hi Pam,

We use one of those atomizers at school - but attached to a compressor to
make life easier. They are a real bugger to use but I found that the trick
was getting those tubes at just the right angle to one another. Practice
with water first so you know it's not the thickness of the glaze causing the
problem and watch what happens as you fool with the angle of the tubes. When
you find the angle you like best, try it with your glaze and see if it still
works or not.

Susie

BWINER@UKCC.uky.edu on tue 22 apr 97

I use a mouth atomizer and the only "trick" is that you have to place the two
metal tubes at a perfect 90 degree angle. You blow through the short tube and
you get a very nice fine spray. Hope this helps, Billy in Lexington KY

Ric Swenson on tue 22 apr 97

The long skinny end goes in the container of fairly thin liquid stain...not
as thick as glaze...not like a milk shake...more like homogenized milk
consistency....
The other end of the 90 degree piece goes in your mouth and you blow like
crazy. If you were a swimmer and have great lungs, it really helps...but
even if you have just normal lung capacity it is possible to make it
work....

The angle of DRAW across the top...which will PULL the liquid out of the
container is critical..play with the angle a bit till you get it right. It
takes practice.....try it with water first to get the feel. It mat
splatter a bit...make sure you shake (stir ) the stain...it settles out
quickly.

Hope this helps.

Ric Swenson, Bennington, Vermont




>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Can anyone give me some hints on the correct use of a "mouth atomizer"?
>You know, the little metal tubes gizmos that are hinged, and one goes in
>your mouth, and the other goes into the liquid you wish to spray. I
>bought one with the intention of using it to spray leatherhard ware with
>blushes of slip and or oxides/water. I have fiddled around with it to
>no avail. I've tried different viscosities of liquids, different
>volumes of the liquids, and I just can not get the thing to work at
>all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA Pam

PJLewing@aol.com on thu 24 apr 97

You can only spray very thin liquid from one of these. Trying to spray glaze
at its regular consistency will herniate you and cause you to pass out.
To get the flow started, try blocking the tube with your tongue as you build
up the pressure, then kind of spitting as you start to blow. This is kind of
hard to explain in words, but it's the same way you spit a tiny piece of
material off the tip of your tongue.
Paul Lewing, Seattle

Christine Avery on thu 14 oct 99

Ok I can't figure them out. I watched Jim Rombergs Raku Ceramics video and
he used a mouth atomizer - looked easy - worked great. ... So I bought some
for class use. Well I can get water through them easily but want to do
underglaze or colored slip and can't get any to blow through. I watered it
down and there was no lumps.

Sooooo what is the trick/secret?? I am feeling pretty dumb here

Christine From nodak where there is tons of wind but not enough to get a
mouth atomizer to work:-)

millie carpenter on fri 15 oct 99



Christine

there is no trick, you just have to blow so hard that you think you will pass
out.

millie in md on the most perfect fall day.

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Ok I can't figure them out. I watched Jim Rombergs Raku Ceramics video and
> he used a mouth atomizer - looked easy - worked great. ... So I bought some
> for class use. Well I can get water through them easily but want to do
> underglaze or colored slip and can't get any to blow through. I watered it
> down and there was no lumps.
>
> Sooooo what is the trick/secret?? I am feeling pretty dumb here
>
> Christine From nodak where there is tons of wind but not enough to get a
> mouth atomizer to work:-)

Christopher Greenman on fri 15 oct 99



Mouth atomizers work great with oxides in water, the atomizers don't work
well with glazes though. And all atomizers were not createed equal. There is
a sensitive alignment of the tube that pullsthe glaze up and the blow tube. I
have used the atomizers with a compressor and they are quite good. I just
picked up one from Japan that does work well with glazes, The design makes
them the cadilac of atomizers. THey have a 4-6 oz. can underneath and the
blow pipe is cone shaped with the large end being the one you blow through.
It cost a lot.


Chris
Kelldogn@aol.com

Charlie and Linda on sat 16 oct 99

Christine

I enjoyed Jim Romberg's video, too. I was at a stage where I had to
shift away from all those fading copper matt and lusters and needed to
come up with something in raku that had "honest" color. I had everyone
I knew searching for those atomizers(I'm out in the sticks..) and ended
up with several makes and models. I even made some out of tubing and
ball point pen parts. None worked as good for me as for Jim Romberg.

I have excellent results with the Paashe Air brush though. I use the
coarse tip (#5) and get fine or coarse splatter with it depending on how
it's used. It cost more for the set up but I don't get dizzy from
blowing hard..... A small air compressor and an airbrush is under $200.
Now that might make you dizzy!

As to the atomizer it is a matter of having the angle correct and
blowing up a storm.

Speaking of which... North Carolina is one day away from another
hurricane or the remains of one. Lucky us. We were praying for rain in
July....Just should have been more specific on the amount we were
praying for.

Charlie Riggs

In North Carolina where I've been trying to dry out the noborigama
enough so that we can fire this thing on Halloween weekend.

Stephen Mills on sun 17 oct 99

We sell these over here in the UK, I agree they are the best, which is
why we stock them, and they are not cheap (stainless steel, made to
order and imported). The UK price is 20 pounds (which was about 32
dollars last time I did the sum) plus sales tax, but I wouldn't be
without mine. I use them for glaze and colour, saves mucking about with
a compressor.

Steve
Bath
UK


In message , Christopher Greenman writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>Mouth atomizers work great with oxides in water, the atomizers don't work
>well with glazes though. And all atomizers were not createed equal. There is
>a sensitive alignment of the tube that pullsthe glaze up and the blow tube. I
>have used the atomizers with a compressor and they are quite good. I just
>picked up one from Japan that does work well with glazes, The design makes
>them the cadilac of atomizers. THey have a 4-6 oz. can underneath and the
>blow pipe is cone shaped with the large end being the one you blow through.
>It cost a lot.
>
>
>Chris
>Kelldogn@aol.com
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Dorothy Weber on mon 18 oct 99

I tried the mouth atomizer recently, when our compressor gave out. When using
the compressor we wear a hepa mask to keep from inhaling the overspray. When
using the mouth atomizer you can't use a mask for protection of overspray,
the air is loaded with particulate you inhale the air, blow and inhale again
and just fill your lungs with glaze/oxide. Don't think its very safe
practice, I know I won't use it again

Dorothy
Manakin-Sabot, Va.

Paulette Carr on mon 18 oct 99

Chris:

You worte that you had a great atomizer from Japan that works well with
glazes. Where can I get one and what is the cost.

Paulette
pagcarr@aol.com