John Jacobs on wed 12 jun 96
Kathryn,
My suggestion to you in re: where to locate windows, doors, etc. would
be: put doors in places that minimize need for stairs/steps; windows to
optimize light and views; electrical service (receptacles) everywhere,
including floor if possible; plumbing and anything else that must be
permanently located away from the middle of the wall length; and
everything else, including shelves, as portable/movable as possible. I
would also consider sky lights and clerestories. For added good fortune
you could also consider feng shui.
Good luck. Oh, almost forgot, Don't forget a consideration for outside
workspace, as in a deck or patio. And sliding glass doors or french doors.
John Jacobs johnj@esd114.wednet.edu
Gig Harbor WA jjacobs@linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
--|--*--*--*--*--*--|--|--|--|--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--|--
Hjh4blh on thu 26 dec 96
I am just planning a new studio. Any help welcomed. Can you suggest any
articles. I have never had my own place before and would like to benefit
from your experance. My email is hjh4blh@aol.com Thanks
the Gallagher's on fri 27 dec 96
I too, plan to get my basement studio set up this spring. So far I have a 4
foot square table with a galvanized surface, and a counter that I hope to turn
into a wedging table. Shelving for greenware is my next concern. Any
suggestions??
Michelle
Puppets@msn.com
----------
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List on behalf of Hjh4blh
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 1996 12:46 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: New Studio
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I am just planning a new studio. Any help welcomed. Can you suggest any
articles. I have never had my own place before and would like to benefit
from your experance. My email is hjh4blh@aol.com Thanks
Kristin Conrad on fri 27 dec 96
Well, I think the suggestions for setting up a new studio depend on whether
you have a large budget and choice of space; or, like many of us, have to
use the space you have and upgrade your facilities as you can afford to.
My first "studio" was in a TINY second bedroom of a 800 square foot condo.
I actually tore up the carpet so that this room had a concrete floor I
could mop (of course, when we sold this condo, we had to recarpet and clean
this room). I had to use the sink in the kitchen (and managed to ruin the
garbage disposal by letting too many clay scraps go down the drain). I
then used a simple five gallon bucket full of water to rinse most of the
clay off of tools, etc. The clay sank to the bottom, and when it got
pretty full, I just reclaimed and reused that clay. For a wedging table, I
found a small, sturdy oak table at a yard sale and then purchased a piece
of smooth plywood to which I stapled heavy canvas. I put this on top of
the sturdy table and wedge my clay there. I like the canvas surface
because it is easy to clean, and absorbs any extra moisture in the clay
(especially if I am reclaiming clay and wedging out extra moisture). My
kickwheel was purchased for $75.00 from an ad in the newspaper. To roll
slabs (because I like to combine wheel thrown and slab built additions), I
threw the clay down on my canvas surface (hard to describe the technique)
and when it was about 1/2" thick, I used wooden shims at the side of the
clay slab to get an even thickness, and a simple wooden roller to roll the
slab out evenly. Many of my first tools were from the kitchen or garage.
My point is, that if you have the money to plan the perfect studio, then
many on this list can and have offered suggestions for the ideal (probably
these are in the archives). But if you are starting on a budget, you can
do just fine by being creative and innovative in finding and adapting
equipment.
Over the years I have moved to another house with a walk-out basement
studio, with running water; and year-by-year I upgrade my equipment (Santa
brought me a slabroller for Christmas!). But, I still like my simple
wedging table and $75.00 kickwheel, and don't feel I am missing anything by
not having brand new equipment in a custom designed studio. I think after
you work in a space, you make the improvements that matter most to you.
original post:
>I am just planning a new studio. Any help welcomed. Can you suggest any
>articles. I have never had my own place before and would like to benefit
>from your experance. My email is hjh4blh@aol.com Thanks
-----Kristin Conrad
Rollinsville, CO (at 9000 feet where we definately had a white Christmas!)
RAKUPCS@aol.com on sat 28 dec 96
How tall is your ceiling and how much room do you have..
Just got done with my studio built by alot of headaches....
do you have a drawing plan??
I would imagine your firing electric?? in your basement..
My studio isn't perfect but its nice to be able to move around and keep from
taking up to much time backtracking where you have just walked...
What I mean is that cellular design using pottery equipment instead of
"cellular Machining" is what they call it in the 90's
any questions contact me I'll try to help.
Jim
Mel Jacobson on thu 30 apr 98
Ariali am pleased to
announce the opening of a wonderful, well made, well planned clay studio
in
minneapolis.
`dock 6 studio`, the property of three of our `hay creek potters`.
kerry brooks, ph.d women's studies, university of minnesota and potter
tara simpson, science teacher, Shiatsu therapist and potter.
colleen riley, graphic designer, national level athlete, potter.
they have built a 60 cubic foot minnesota flat top car kiln with an
arched roof.
state of the art. donavan palmquist, master kiln builder lent his
support with permits and
city inspections and wonderful advice.
and in the `hay creek tradition`, kerry is enrolled in the vocational
technical school
program in welding. she will be `our welder` this summer during the
construction
of our new salt kiln.
the thirty members of `hay creek` are very proud of these young women and
wish
them nothing but success.
mel/mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
SharonC on fri 1 may 98
------------------
Hey Mel,
=A0
How about an address and some directions for out of towners.=A0 =
Thanks=21=21=21
=A0
And Congrats to all those involved in the new studio.
=A0
Sharon Clayton
London, Ontario.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List =5Bmailto:CLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=5DOn =
Behalf
Of Mel Jacobson
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 1998 7:49 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: new studio
=3C?param Insert plain text message here=3E
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3C?fontfamily=3E=3C?param Arial=3E=3C?smaller=3E=3C?smaller=3Ei am pleased =
to announce
the opening of a wonderful, well made, well planned clay studio in
minneapolis.
=60dock 6 studio=60, the property of three of our =60hay creek potters=60.
kerry brooks, ph.d women's studies, university of minnesota and potter
tara simpson, science teacher, Shiatsu therapist and potter.
colleen riley, graphic designer, national level athlete, potter.
they have built a 60 cubic foot minnesota flat top car kiln with an
arched roof.
state of the art. donavan palmquist, master kiln builder lent his
support with permits and
city inspections and wonderful advice.
and in the =60hay creek tradition=60, kerry is enrolled in the vocational
technical school
program in welding. she will be =60our welder=60 this summer during the
construction
of our new salt kiln.
the thirty members of =60hay creek=60 are very proud of these young women
and wish
them nothing but success.
mel/mn=3C?/smaller=3E=3C?/smaller=3E=3C?/fontfamily=3E
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Mel Jacobson on mon 4 may 98
the location of the new studio in minneapolis...is n.e.
address \ 2101 kennedy st. n.e.
mpls 55413 dock 6 or studio 135
telephone
\379 2110
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
wolters on wed 24 mar 99
Hi. I'm Lisa Wolters and am fairly new to ClayArt and am in awe of the
collective knowledge that has been coming my way each day through this
list.
I am a graphic designer with hopes of some day becoming a ceramic artist
and have a few questions about setting up a studio. I currently work in
my garage but have the opportunity to add a studio to the back of the
house with running water and heat! Another option would be to convert a
rather large room in my basement that has an outside entrance. I am
concerned about the health hazards and the potential cleaning nightmare
caused by having a studio within one's home. If I add on the room, I
would like as many windows as possible, is that a crazy idea with all
the clay dust?
Thanks.
Mark on mon 29 mar 99
The dust in the house is a concern, but working in a low-light, basement
level room is more of a concern. I know a potter who worked in a basement
studio for a while and became so full of mold -- and allergic to it -- that
she can't work in clay anymore. I encourage you to create a space that has
as much light and fresh air in it as possible. Good luck!
Mark
Carol Jackaway on tue 30 mar 99
I agree about the basement studio. It MUST have as much light as you can put
up. Because I have a low ceiling and need light with very little money I went
with work shop lights. And when I clean I use a bleach and water solution to
kill any mold. I keep a window open for 3 seasons and in the winter I don't
insulate one window as well as the others (in a 100 year old house wind always
gets in!) I have asthma and allerigies so I work hard to keep things clean.
If your basement ceiling is not finished try puting up sheet plastic first
this will insulate and will keep dust from falling into the studio.
Carol Jackaway
CoilLady
Mark K Issenberg on mon 23 aug 99
Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
Iknocked down more than 300 pine trees and i hauled them to a saw mill to
make siding.It was also interesting working on the saw mill.
I have moved my Alpine 24 to its resting site, witch was a slab of
concrete 12x12 that we slide around with a bulldozer. Also it is fun
driving a bulldozer.
Ive been getting fire brick to build a wood kiln, but i dont know what
kind to build.
My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
I am going to be painting today after the low life, pond scum drywallers
finish.They spit tobacco juice all over everything and also throw cig
butts on everything else.
Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
___________________________________________________________________
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Andrew Buck on tue 24 aug 99
Mark,
I would not seal the concrete. I think the unsealed concrete releases any
clay that gets dribbled on it better. Kind of like the difference between
trying to wedge on plaster or a hard finished surface. Just my opinion.
Andy Buck
Raincreek Pottery
Port Orchard, Washington
On Mon, 23 Aug 1999, Mark K Issenberg wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
> builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>
> My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
> 24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>
> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
Leo Peck on tue 24 aug 99
Hello Mark, I just built my new studio and I decided not to seal the floor
surface. The reason is that when wet clay or glaze comes in contact with it
I can let it dry and scape it up. I've slipped to many times on a slick
surface. But I would seal the outside edge. Good luck, Leo in Napa, CA.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark K Issenberg
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, August 23, 1999 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: new studio
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
>builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>
>Iknocked down more than 300 pine trees and i hauled them to a saw mill to
>make siding.It was also interesting working on the saw mill.
>
>I have moved my Alpine 24 to its resting site, witch was a slab of
>concrete 12x12 that we slide around with a bulldozer. Also it is fun
>driving a bulldozer.
>
>Ive been getting fire brick to build a wood kiln, but i dont know what
>kind to build.
>
>My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>
>I am going to be painting today after the low life, pond scum drywallers
>finish.They spit tobacco juice all over everything and also throw cig
>butts on everything else.
>
> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
Hank Murrow on tue 24 aug 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Mark; I recommend washing your floor with muriatic acid (try pool supply
places or contractors supply) followed by a coat or two of Benjamin Moore
Impervo floor enamel. You will dust up less and live longer. Hank in Eugene.
Olivia T Cavy on tue 24 aug 99
Mark,
If there is money in the budget, IMHO you should seal the concrete floor
with that industrial epoxy sealer. I bought the one sold by Sherwin
Williams (which can be stained ANY color they have on any of their color
samples). Your buy the 2 parts and mix them together, like an epoxy. It
takes 2 coats, and dries to a very hard, impermeable surface. I put this
"paint" on the floor of my studio, and it cleans up beautifully using
plain water. We kept the plastic bucket that was used to mix this stuff,
and when it was dry, we pulled out a shell made of the floor paint. It is
VERY tough stuff, plus it looks great. It costs a bit under $50 per
gallon, and you need at least 2 gallons (one of each part). On my 20 x 28
floor, we used a total of 4 gallons. This stuff is designed for
industrial applications, and I've been told it survives dropped tools and
machinery driving across it, without chipping.
I've worked on unsealed cement floors, and they hold the clay dust. The
water is absorbed by the unfinished cement, and the clay is sucked in,
just like your bisqued pots.
I hope your floor drains drain to the outside, like mine, because it's so
easy to clean up by hosing down the floor.
Nice to hear that your studio is almost ready for action!
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
(sending this to Clayart and to you directly)
On Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:17:09 EDT Mark K Issenberg
writes:
>
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have
> been
> builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>
> Iknocked down more than 300 pine trees and i hauled them to a saw
> mill to
> make siding.It was also interesting working on the saw mill.
>
> I have moved my Alpine 24 to its resting site, witch was a slab of
> concrete 12x12 that we slide around with a bulldozer. Also it is fun
> driving a bulldozer.
>
> Ive been getting fire brick to build a wood kiln, but i dont know
> what
> kind to build.
>
> My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
> 24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>
> I am going to be painting today after the low life, pond scum
> drywallers
> finish.They spit tobacco juice all over everything and also throw
> cig
> butts on everything else.
>
> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Bonnie D. Hellman, Pittsburgh, PA
PA work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com (NO attachments please to this
address)
PA home email: mou10man@sgi.net (that's the number 10 in the middle of
the letters)
Colorado email: mou10man@RMI.net (that's the number 10 in the middle of
the letters)
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
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The Brinks on tue 24 aug 99
Hi Mark...talk about "doing it yourself"!!! You've been working like a
dooooog, for a while, I can tell.
Congratulations! The 24x36 size of studio sounds wonderful. As far as
sealing the floor, or not---I think it will be easier to run the wet-mop if
you either seal, or get some paint labeled for garage floors. A perfect
time to do it is when it's new (after you wash off the tobacco spit!).
Twenty two years ago we painted our garage floor with some green paint from
K-mart- all I can remember is that is was labeled for concrete- and it has
proved to be really tough and taken a lot of abuse. I do my clay work in
half the garage, and it cleans up well. Just my 2 cents worth...
Ann in CA
At 02:17 PM 8/23/1999 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
>builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>
>Iknocked down more than 300 pine trees and i hauled them to a saw mill to
>make siding.It was also interesting working on the saw mill.
>
>I have moved my Alpine 24 to its resting site, witch was a slab of
>concrete 12x12 that we slide around with a bulldozer. Also it is fun
>driving a bulldozer.
>
>Ive been getting fire brick to build a wood kiln, but i dont know what
>kind to build.
>
>My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>
>I am going to be painting today after the low life, pond scum drywallers
>finish.They spit tobacco juice all over everything and also throw cig
>butts on everything else.
>
> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
>
e-mail billann@impulse.net
K. Hurt on wed 25 aug 99
I went through the new studio thing in May and sealed my floor. My last
floor was cement as well and sealed, it cleaned up beautifully.
Karin
Laughing Bear Pottery
----------
> From: Andrew Buck
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: new studio
> Date: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 9:07 AM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Mark,
>
> I would not seal the concrete. I think the unsealed concrete releases
any
> clay that gets dribbled on it better. Kind of like the difference
between
> trying to wedge on plaster or a hard finished surface. Just my opinion.
>
> Andy Buck
> Raincreek Pottery
> Port Orchard, Washington
>
> On Mon, 23 Aug 1999, Mark K Issenberg wrote:
>
> > ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> > Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
> > builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
> >
> > My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
> > 24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
> >
> > Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> > Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> > Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
> >
Dennis E. Tobin on wed 25 aug 99
Mark,
I disagree with those who say do not seal the floor. I have taught at
universities that do both. Unsealed floors hold the dust and are harder to
clean . The pores of the concrete hold the dust, whereas a sealed floor
with a little oil-based sweeping compound cleans with much less dust and
effort. It has been my experience that a sealed floor is easier to clean
than an unsealed floor.
Good luck.
Dennis Tobin
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Mark,
>
>I would not seal the concrete. I think the unsealed concrete releases any
>clay that gets dribbled on it better. Kind of like the difference between
>trying to wedge on plaster or a hard finished surface. Just my opinion.
>
>Andy Buck
>Raincreek Pottery
>Port Orchard, Washington
>
>On Mon, 23 Aug 1999, Mark K Issenberg wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
>> builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>>
>> My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>> 24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>>
>> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>>
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________________
>> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>>
Dennis Tobin
Associate Professor
Art Department
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio 45056
(513) 529-1505
Victor Levin on wed 25 aug 99
I dont know about the health issues, but having just sealed a floor with a
non-toxic water based sealant (no, I dont remember the name, sorry), I can
say that the drying time might be an issue. it now washes quickly and dries
very fast, but very slippery when wet. the concrete was always dusty and it
dried so slowly that the winters were very cold and uncomfortable humidity
in any season.
School Services of Canada
"The Best in Educational Audio/Visual Media"
176 Albany Ave.
Toronto, On M5R 3C6
Phone 416 588-0716
Fax 416 410-7465
the Gallaghers on thu 26 aug 99
What do I need to do to a floor that has previously been painted, is wearing
off in patches and has cracks, where now the ants have found a way to get
in. I keep sealing the ant holes with silicon, but they find other places
to get in.
Michelle
...chasing ants in Oregon... ,o,o,o" ,o,o,o" ,o,o,o" "dead-ant,
dead-ant........."
-----Original Message-----
From: Hank Murrow
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: new studio
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Mark; I recommend washing your floor with muriatic acid (try pool supply
places or contractors supply) followed by a coat or two of Benjamin Moore
Impervo floor enamel. You will dust up less and live longer. Hank in Eugene.
Stephen Mills on fri 27 aug 99
I would ALWAYS seal a concrete floor. Unless you keep it permanently
damp you will raise dust every time you walk across it. And what happens
then? You breath it in! Nuff said!
Steve
Bath
UK
>>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>> Howdy all, we are in Rising Fawn Ga on top of Lookout Mtn. I have been
>>> builing a new studio.It has a apt upstairs.
>>>
>>> My newest dilema is what to do about my studio floor. It is concrete
>>> 24x36 and has 3 drains. Should i seal it or leave it as is?????????
>>>
>>> Mark Issenberg in Rising Fawn
>>>
>>>
>>> ___________________________________________________________________
>>> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>>> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>>> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>>>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Jenny Lewis on mon 6 sep 04
Greetings all
The potential new studio is nearly nearly nearly there... and my brain is
buzzing. So, like all good Clayarters, one night instead of being able to
sleep, I penned an ode. I think of it as my stream of (un)consciousness.
The studio plans are taking wing.
Have I remembered everything?
Where will I keep the glaze and clay?
Do spiders EVER go away?
The kiln will stand in that spot there.
Must find some space to put a chair.
The wheel should face the window side.
Perhaps that worktop's much too wide.
Need buckets to put water in.
And some kind of recycling bin.
Perhaps a bar stool, not a chair.
Some more shelves needed here, and there.
A water butt to catch the rain?
How bout a stoneware weather vane?
Somewhere to store the bags of clay.
And lots more shelves are on the way.
The buckets should all be on wheels.
I wonder how the new clay feels.
I really like those painted bricks.
Must read the book about Cone 6.
The Clayart lighting hints were good.
Can doorsteps be made out of wood?
More shelves, more shelves, more shelves, more shelves...
Where can I find some helpful elves?
My brain is hurting - all the same
I really love this planning game.
BIG THANKS to Clayart, helping me
to make the dream reality!
Jenny Lewis
in Eastleigh, Hampshire, UK
the electrician should be here to link up the wiring on Wednesday, yippeee,
the kiln, wheel, clay and some toxic chemicals (kidding) are on order,
lemon slices and bottles of vinegar are ready,
isn't this fun?
Hal Giddens on tue 1 aug 06
A friend of mine is building a 20 x 20 studio and her husband has found a
new time of heat source that they are going to use called a "fan heat
light". The web site is http://www.fanheatlight.com/. I will let ya'll
know how it works for her this winter. Also I bought I tankless water
heater when I had my studio built. It cost around $150 and up and has
worked great for me the last three winters. The one is bought is made by
Stiebel Eltron but there are many others on the market.
Hal Giddens
Home Grown Pottery
1578 Rockledge Road
Rockledge, GA 30454
kenhal@bellsouth.net
http://www.homegrownpottery.blogspot.com/
http://wwwstpatricksproject2007.blogspot.com
Kathryn Faille on fri 25 sep 09
I am in the process of building a new studio and am pondering as to
what material to use for the walls. I want it to be easy to clean,
durable, look good and not cost a fortune.
Sheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expensive by the
time it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't as
cleanable as I want. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Kathryn Faille
www.kathrynfaillepottery.com
Marcia Selsor on fri 25 sep 09
sheetrock and then after a primer, paint with an enamel paint. This
doesn't mean shiney , but many good enamels come is many surfaces and
colors. Enamels are easy to wash.
Marcia
On Sep 25, 2009, at 6:34 AM, Kathryn Faille wrote:
> I am in the process of building a new studio and am pondering as to
> what material to use for the walls. I want it to be easy to clean,
> durable, look good and not cost a fortune.
> Sheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expensive by the
> time it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't as
> cleanable as I want. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kathryn Faille
> www.kathrynfaillepottery.com
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Cathi Newlin on fri 25 sep 09
I think a vinyl covered wallboard, like they use in manufactured homes migh=
t
be a good choice. Scrubable, durable, lighter and easier to install than
sheet rock - and no taping and mudding!
Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
cathi@box49.com
box49@caltel.com
cathi@SquarePegArts.com
-------------------------------
California Boxers in Need:
http://CaliforniaBoxer.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathryn Faille"
To:
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 4:34 AM
Subject: [Clayart] New Studio
>I am in the process of building a new studio and am pondering as to
> what material to use for the walls. I want it to be easy to clean,
> durable, look good and not cost a fortune.
> Sheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expensive by the
> time it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't as
> cleanable as I want. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kathryn Faille
> www.kathrynfaillepottery.com
>
steve graber on fri 25 sep 09
i've seen linoli=3D
what kind of wall do you have in the first place?=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0Ai've seen =
linoli=3D
um (how's it spelled?) on walls.=3DA0 certainly tile (more $$ than sheet ro=
ck=3D
).=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0Amine is plain old cinderblock, painted, and i love it.=3D=
A0 =3D0A=3D
=3DA0Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc=3D0AClaremont, California USA=3D0A=
The St=3D
eve Tool - for awesome texture on pots! =3D0Awww.graberspottery.com steve@g=
ra=3D
berspottery.com =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AOn Laguna Clay's website=3D0Ahttp://www.lagu=
naclay.c=3D
om/blogs/ =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0AFro=
m: Kathryn F=3D
aille =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ASent: Frida=
y, S=3D
eptember 25, 2009 4:34:54 AM=3D0ASubject: New Studio=3D0A=3D0AI am in the p=
rocess=3D
of building a new studio and am pondering as to=3D0Awhat material to use f=
or=3D
the walls.=3DA0 I want it to be easy to clean,=3D0Adurable, look good and =
not =3D
cost a fortune.=3D0ASheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expe=
ns=3D
ive by the=3D0Atime it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't =
as=3D
=3D0Acleanable as I want.=3DA0 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated=
.=3D0A=3D
=3D0AKathryn Faille=3D0Awww.kathrynfaillepottery.com=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Snail Scott on fri 25 sep 09
On Sep 25, 2009, at 6:34 AM, Kathryn Faille wrote:
> I am in the process of building a new studio and am pondering as to
> what material to use for the walls. I want it to be easy to clean,
> durable, look good and not cost a fortune.
> Sheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expensive by the
> time it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't as
> cleanable as I want...
But if you do it yourself, it gets to be a pretty
reasonable cost, and except for ceilings, it's
not difficult. I prefer plywood myself, though,
since it allows me to install my wall-mounted
work anywhere I want to photograph or display
it for visitors, and I can attach shelving or brackets
without worrying where the studs are.
I also like that cheesy bathroom paneling (like
masonite with a shiny white surface) for some
areas - cleans up very easily, and makes a great
whiteboard for sketching and keeping notes in
view. Just write on the wall! Too flimsy by itself,
but it goes up easily over anything else.
-Snail
Dave Lyons on fri 25 sep 09
I put the same question to my contractor when I build my studio. He told m=
e
that sheet rock is the best choice for looks, cleanliness, and durability.
4x8 sheets of paneling might have been cheaper, and would have been fairly
easy to clean, but it didn't look that good. Dry wall, or sheet rock is
easily repairable also. I'd use a high quality latex enamel if your primar=
y
concern is cleaning the walls. In my studio I used an inexpensive interior
latex. I can sponge off dust and occasional splashes of glaze material fro=
m
the walls without a problem. The major cleaning headache is the floor not
the walls. I had my contractor do the rough hanging of the drywall and I
did the mud work, taping, sanding, priming, and painting. The expense of
dry wall is the labor expense not the materials. If you can do some of the
work, even the painting, you'll save $$.
Dave Lyons
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Kathryn Faille
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 6:35 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: New Studio
I am in the process of building a new studio and am pondering as to
what material to use for the walls. I want it to be easy to clean,
durable, look good and not cost a fortune.
Sheet rock seems the least favored choice as it is expensive by the
time it is hung, finished and painted plus, it really isn't as
cleanable as I want. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Kathryn Faille
www.kathrynfaillepottery.com
KATHI LESUEUR on sat 26 sep 09
On Sep 26, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Bonnie Staffel wrote:
> I would suggest that you definitely use drywall if you have a kiln
> in your
> studio. Your insurance company will thank you.
>
> Bonnie
>
Even better, make it fire resistant drywall.
KATHI LESUEUR
http://www.lesueurclaywork.com
Bonnie Staffel on sat 26 sep 09
I would suggest that you definitely use drywall if you have a kiln in =3D
your
studio. Your insurance company will thank you.
Bonnie
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
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