Wilkinson on fri 10 oct 97
When throwing an oblong bowl we throw the bottomless sides, wire the bottom
and give it the oblong shape we want. We then throw the bottom rather than
slab roll it because we like the circles in the bottom of the bowl. The
problem with our last two thrown bottoms is that when trying to wire them
off
the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try to
wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges. Any
suggestions other than the slab roller and putting it on the wheel for the
circles or cutting the oval out of a fully thrown bowl bottom?
Lori Wilkinson
LorWilk@dfn.com
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
June Perry on sat 11 oct 97
Lori, throw your base on plaster bats and let it release on its own without
cutting. You can place your top piece on the base as it's drying on the bat,
do your joining, etc. and let it release by itself. This way you'll have the
even thickness you want, plus your throw lines.
Regards,'June
David Hendley on sat 11 oct 97
Throw a regular low bowl, the bottom slightly
thicker than normal, let it firm up a while.
Then stretch the whole thing.
Pick it up by the side, throw it on a cloth covered
table with a "pulling" motion to elongate the bottom.
Do the same thing from the other end.
Repeat if necessary.
Timing is everything, the sides must still be eaily flexable,
the bottom bottom not soggy.
Much faster.
Much stronger because it's all one piece of clay.
Try it you'll like it.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 11:51 AM 10/10/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>When throwing an oblong bowl we throw the bottomless sides, wire the bottom
>and give it the oblong shape we want. We then throw the bottom rather than
>slab roll it because we like the circles in the bottom of the bowl. The
>problem with our last two thrown bottoms is that when trying to wire them
>off
>the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try to
>wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges. Any
>suggestions other than the slab roller and putting it on the wheel for the
>circles or cutting the oval out of a fully thrown bowl bottom?
>
>Lori Wilkinson
>LorWilk@dfn.com
>http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
>
>
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
Sandra Dwiggins on sat 11 oct 97
Lori...
1. Try softer clay.
2. Your clay disc may be too thin.
3. Throw your clay disc with a little bit extra clay in the center.
4. Make sure your wire is very taught when cutting off.
If the casserole is large and the oval is large, the disc you throw must be
large too. One of the tricks I learned from a potter in my studio was
cutting off a flat platter or disc by putting the bat on a table about waist
high. Using your knee as a stop on the edge of the table and the bat, pull
your wire taught and cut off the object pulling down on both ends of the
wire as hard as you can. This usually works, even for very large
pieces, especially if you've compressed the clay well.
Sandy
Richard Gralnik on sat 11 oct 97
Lori,
It sounds like the problem is that the wire curves up off the wheelhead
when you're at the widest part of the thrown bottom. If that's true
then you need to keep the wire more taut. If the thought of garroting
your fingers doesn't appeal to you, try this -
Get a bow saw, a turnbuckle and some wire. Take the blade out of the
bow saw. Tie the wire through the hole at one end of the saw, and put
the turnbuckle through the hole at the other end. Tie the second end
of the wire to free end of the turnbuckle. Turn the turnbuckle to make
the wire nice and taut. (If you get middle C when you pluck the wire
it's about right :). Use THAT to cut off your thrown bottom (or wide
platters or whatever. I'll bet the thrown bottom will be a uniform
thickness and still have its center now.
Richard
At 11:51 AM 10/10/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>When throwing an oblong bowl we throw the bottomless sides, wire the bottom
>and give it the oblong shape we want. We then throw the bottom rather than
>slab roll it because we like the circles in the bottom of the bowl. The
>problem with our last two thrown bottoms is that when trying to wire them
>off
>the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try to
>wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges. Any
>suggestions other than the slab roller and putting it on the wheel for the
>circles or cutting the oval out of a fully thrown bowl bottom?
>
>Lori Wilkinson
>LorWilk@dfn.com
>http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
>
>
Wilkinson on sat 11 oct 97
> When throwing an oblong bowl we throw the bottomless sides, wire the
bottom
> and give it the oblong shape we want. We then throw the bottom rather
than
> slab roll it because we like the circles in the bottom of the bowl. The
> problem with our last two thrown bottoms is that when trying to wire them
> off
> the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try
to
> wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges.
What I find strange about this is it does not happen to our same size large
bowls or platter. What gives here? Does having sides have anything to do
with it?
Lori Wilkinson
LorWilk@dfn.com
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
Helllll on mon 13 oct 97
> the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try
>to
>> wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges.
Try fishing line instead of wire.. it will help to prevent this...
creating, exploring, making, experiencing
Hank in OKC Oklahellma
Helllll@aol.com
Jacquelyn Lumsden on tue 14 oct 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>When throwing an oblong bowl we throw the bottomless sides, wire the bottom
>and give it the oblong shape we want. We then throw the bottom rather than
>slab roll it because we like the circles in the bottom of the bowl. The
>problem with our last two thrown bottoms is that when trying to wire them
>off
>the bat it slices out the center of the circle regardless of how we try to
>wire it off. If it is thicker it will be too thick on the edges. Any
>suggestions other than the slab roller and putting it on the wheel for the
>circles or cutting the oval out of a fully thrown bowl bottom?
>
>Lori Wilkinson
>LorWilk@dfn.com
>http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
Hi there Lori-
Help is on the way!!! We have a potter here in Waterloo who is definitely
a senior citizen and makes the most wonderful strong functional pieces.
Years ago Nettie taught me to cut circles of upholstery vinyl the same size
as the bat, attach it by smearing nice slurry on it and pressing it smooth
with a rib, and they to proceed to throw . You will undercut between the
bat and the vinyl so that you can pick it up with no difficulty. This is
the only way I make large plates, flat bottomed bakers etc as there is
minimal trimming and you don't end up with a thin place in the middle as
you describe. When you buy the vinyl, the thinner kind is a bit better
than the thick as it will curl a bit on the edges when drying and it it
touches the pot, it doesn't make as big a mark. A word of caution. Be
sure to undercut after throwing because the slurry can be like cement when
it dries, and I have broken more than one wire trying to cut through when I
have forgotten!
Do you throw the thrown base on a table etc to get the ovals in the finger
rings? This is a technique that Bruce Cochrane uses. You must throw the
base quite thick though, to have it work.. Do it when the base is still
very wet! Fun!
Good luck.
Jackie Lumsden
Waterloo, Ont.
Dave/Janice Schiman on tue 14 oct 97
Any
> suggestions other than the slab roller and putting it on the wheel for the
> circles or cutting the oval out of a fully thrown bowl bottom?
>
> Lori Wilkinson
> LorWilk@dfn.com
> http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
When cutting the oval off or any large plate or platter, it is best to
keep one of your hands still while holding the one end of the wire tight
to bat surface. With the other hand, you do the cutting motion. I have
found since doing it this way, the bottoms come off flat and even. This
is probably because there isn't the tendancy to lift up as there is with
cutting with both hands.
Janice Schiman
Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
d.schiman@sk.sympatico.ca
DIANA PANCIOLI, ASSOC. PROF. on sat 18 oct 97
I throw the bottom to accommodate the way the wire cuts it--that is,
thicker toward the center, thinner at the edges. Then when the wire
climbs slightly in cutting, an even thickness remains.
Wilkinson on sat 25 oct 97
June, Thanks for the reply on this. I must admit I have never used a
plaster bat. I have made hump and slump molds but not bats. Can it be
done, make them I mean?
Lori
Roswell NM
LorWilk@dfn.com
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/1165
June Perry on sun 26 oct 97
Yes it can be done. I make them in pyrex pie plates and the shape and depth
is perfect for bats. Just don't wait too long before you pour and make sure
your plate is sized and level. In fact I recently purchased a nice big round
plastic gizmo that's about 1 1/2" deep that I plan to use a mold for a
plaster bat for throwing large platters.
Usually when I make a batch of plaster I have an extra pie plate or small
object prepped for some bats, just in case I have some mix leftover after
pouring my main project. I haunt the Good Will stores and flea markets
looking for appropriate vessels of various sizes and shapes to use as molds
for oval dishes, platters, etc.
Regards,
June
sharon miranda on wed 29 oct 97
June: Could I ask you a stupid question about pouring plaster molds in
containers? I've always wanted to do this - how do you get the mold out
of the dish, container, etc? Do you break the container? Say you want to
make a mold out of something like glass ( a pie dish etc). I've made
molds from wet clay, and peel the clay away when the mold is set. Thanks
for any info.
Sharon
*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*.*
Sharon LaRocca-Miranda *
92 Morgan Street *
Oberlin, Ohio 44074 *
Sharon.Miranda@oberlin.edu *
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .*
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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