Wandell, Greg on wed 29 may 96
I am contemplating once firing to Cone 6 in an electric kiln and was
looking for answers to a couple of questions and a bit of advice.
So here goes:
Question 1 - Will glazes that currently work have to be formulated?
If so,
what types of modifications are necessary and what is the reasoning
behind
this?
Question 2 - How will once firing change the firing cycle? I expect
that
the cycle would have to be longer. Is this correct?
Question 3 - What forms work or do not work with a single fire? Are
there
problems once firing plates and platters?
Question 4 - Does glaze application have to be modified?
ADVICE - Is once firing a viable alternative to the typical
bisque/glaze
cycle? What are benefits/drawbacks of using this approach - other
than
saving time and money avoiding a second firing.
Thanks for your assistance.
Gregory F. Wandell
Greg.Wandell@TMS-HQ.COM
Bethesda, Maryland
Where it is a lovely shade of gray outside.
Brad Sondahl on fri 31 may 96
Chief drawbacks:
Glossy glazes tend to blister since the Sulphur gases haven't been removed
through bisquing.
A fair percentage of pots will crack from the wetting involved in glazing,
unless you spray them on. Another percentage of them will break from
handling while glazing. This means you don't really save on much of anything,
since the loss of one pot usually will pay the cost of a bisque.
Brad Sondahl
Been there, done that
lihde@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu on sat 1 jun 96
I have never lost a pot due to single firing- and I throw fairly thin.
The only trouble that I've had is blistering of certain glazes. But I
have a line of functional ware that is always single fired. I useally
paint on two coats of clear or white, being careful to moisten the bottom of
the
pot equally with water so that there isn't stress due to one part of the
pot being moistened. I let those coats dry for a day before spraying the
final coat. I spray to ensure an even coat without brush strokes
showing, not to avoid damaging the pot. The exceptions are cups- I only
spray those to ensure an even coat, dampening the bottom before hand.
I useally fire at cone 4 or 6. I had more trouble at cone 04 when I
experiemented with earthenware. But from reading these posts it seems
that lots of people are having trouble with majolica and that it doesn't
necessarily have anything to do with single firing.
Leslie at Turning Point Pottery Studio in Vestal, NY
LINDA BLOSSOM on tue 4 jun 96
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I agree with Leslie. Even though I glaze thicker items and exclusively single
fire, I had thought all the negative stuff was because potters work so much
thinner and single firing was more difficult than with my thicker work. I have
never met a glaze that I could not single fire. I always use a binder, fire
slowly (80 C per hour), soak for 40 minutes, and slow cool (100 C per hour for
first two hours) and have no problems. I always dry the base glaze for 24 hours
when doing majolica. This alone stopped the white spots or freckling. I saw
this as a suggestion in CM in the past and it worked.
Linda
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