Tracy Wilson on sat 1 mar 97
Howdy Eric...
Here are a few random thoughts on once firing:
All of my once fire glazes are applied when the pot is bone dry. I've got
about 2% bentonite in most glazes. I've found spraying the glaze gives the
best result. If you're going to dip the glaze, It's best to pour the
inside and dip the outside after the inside is completely dry (otherwise it
may blister) Some glazes work great, some don't work at all. You could
start with glazes formulated for green application and modify. I've found
that any glazes you already use that have at least 15% clay (uncalcined
kaolin or ball), have a higher rate of success. Make sure your firing
schedule is SLOW up to (at least) dull red heat. Porcelain and stoneware
react totally differently when once firing. Stoneware seems to shrink more
from bone dry to bisque than porcelain so different glazes will work on
porc. than stwr.
Good luck....
Tracy
_______________________________________
Tracy Wilson
Saltbox Pottery
RR3 Box 749, Rte. 1
Woolwich, Maine 04579
phone:207-443-5586
fax:207-443-6544-0
email: saltbox@ime.net
Web: http://www.ime.net/~dwilson/
______________________________________
Cindy on tue 4 mar 97
Tracy,
I have a clear glaze (commercial) which works beautifully with once firing.
The problem I have is that when I apply it to the inside of a bone-dry pot
(the inside is all I glaze on these particular pots), the pot inevitably
develops a network of hairline cracks. Any suggestions what to do about
this?
TIA, Cindy
It's best to pour the
> inside and dip the outside after the inside is completely dry (otherwise
it
> may blister)
Marget and Peter Lippincott on sat 8 mar 97
Cindy wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Tracy,
>
> I have a clear glaze (commercial) which works beautifully with once firing.
> The problem I have is that when I apply it to the inside of a bone-dry pot
> (the inside is all I glaze on these particular pots), the pot inevitably
> develops a network of hairline cracks. Any suggestions what to do about
> this?
>
> TIA, Cindy
>
> It's best to pour the
> > inside and dip the outside after the inside is completely dry (otherwise
> it
> > may blister)
T,C:
I don't have extensive experience with raw glazing, but Seth Cardew
glazes his ware when it is "late" leather hard. Glazing inside first
resoftens the clay a bit and the pot has to be set aside until it become
hard again before glazing the outside. Then the pots go to bone dry
before firing (of course). Clay does not take in so much liquid when
leather hard when compared to bone dry so your glaze may not be
appropriate for leather hard glazing, but try it. In my experience
wetting any bone dry clay will cause it to fall apart quite quickly when
compared to leather hard. Especially if the clay is thinly thrown it
could fall apart if glazed bone dry. I suspect that is what is
happening to you.
Peter
Mudpuppy Pottery
The Shelfords on sun 9 mar 97
Hi All -
What is an appropriate firing schedule for once-firing? Any particular
temperature levels that need soaking or anything? If this has already been
dealt with and I've missed it, I would really appreciate it if whoever
posted it could copy it to me. Thanks!
Veronica
____________________________________________________________________________
Veronica Shelford
e-mail: shelford@island.net
s-mail: P.O. Box 6-15
Thetis Island, BC V0R 2Y0
Tel: (250) 246-1509
____________________________________________________________________________
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