P. F. Shelor on sat 30 nov 96
Does anyone know of a good book devoted primarily to Oribe ceramics?
Sandra Dwiggins on mon 2 dec 96
I just happen to have a few on my desk at the moment!
Kyoto Ceramics by Masahito Sako
Shino and Oribe ceramics by Ryoichi Fujioka
The Beginnings of Japanese Art by Namio Egami
Sandy
Nils Lou on mon 2 dec 96
Check out "Shino and Oribe Ceramics" by Ryoichi Fujioka. Published by
Kodansha in 1977 and part of the Japanese Arts Library. Check with Steve
Branfman at the Potter's Shop. He may be able to get you a copy.It was
$12.95 wheb I bought it in 1978. Nils Lou
On Sat, 30 Nov 1996, P. F. Shelor wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone know of a good book devoted primarily to Oribe ceramics?
>
James Dapogny on thu 5 dec 96
Not I, but can you or someone please explain what Oribe ceramics is (or are)?
Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does anyone know of a good book devoted primarily to Oribe ceramics?
JLLachance on thu 7 aug 97
Does any one willing to share info about green Oribe glazes? are there any
low, mid or high fire temp glazes floating around that you might share? I
am also interested in any books or articles that pertain to this subject.
thanks for your time,
James LaChance
jllachance@aol.com
Fargo, ND
Michelle H. Lowe on fri 8 aug 97
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does any one willing to share info about green Oribe glazes? are there any
> low, mid or high fire temp glazes floating around that you might share? I
> am also interested in any books or articles that pertain to this subject.
> thanks for your time,
When I started researching Oribe's to fire in my new gas kiln, I
checked the databases at the CeramicsWeb. The glazebase didn't come
up with any but the clayart glazebase came up with ten recipes that
have that word in them somewhere...They are all high fire.
To find them go to this url on your web browser-
http://apple.sdsu.edu/ceramicsweb/findclayartglazes.html
and type in "Oribe" (no quotes) in the Look Everywhere box.
Then click Find and you'll get the list of glazes.
Good luck, I'm having fun with Oribe right now too :-)
Mishy
check out my kiln-building page!
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe/kiln/kiln.html
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
-\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
Donald G. Goldsobel on fri 8 aug 97
The formulas that follow are from several sources in cluding Clay art
Listserv. The first one is my Oribe which in reduction will be pink( yes
pink) where very thin and a beautiful green where thicker. It can run so
don't be heavy handed with it. I like the brus spatter technique and
spatter through a fine mesh collander to get a speckled pink effect. Try
using it over McKenzie Oatmeal or a mild shino.
Donald's Oribe
CUSTER SPAR 30.91
WHITING 22.36
SILICA 25.32
TALC 7.81
EPK 12.55
BONE ASH 1.05
BENTONITE
COPPER CARB 5.49
RAPBERRY RED TO PALE SEAGREEN
"The shaner glaze NEEDS ^10 to be>glossy--and it is just what you describe
you're looking for. the Shaner is matte.
Shaner Oribe--^10-11
custer 29.3
flint 24
whiting 21.2
Talc 7.4
epk 11.9
bone ash 1
bentonite 1
copper carb 5.2
Rob's is more consistent and very similar--is glossy at ^9, whereas The
original Rob's calls for barium carb, and I substituted strontium. I use
only half the amouint specified in this recipe. I tested it without either
barium or strontium, and it is still a good glaze, but not quite as rich.
Rob's green-^10
cornwall 75
whiting 18
cerstley borate 5
copper carb 10
strontium car 7
bentonite 2
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
daveitel@execpc.com
http://www.digivis.com/CedarCreek/home.html" CREDIT DAVE FOR THIS INFO
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----------
HERE IS A POST TO JUNE GARY WANG FROM LAST YEAR
Hi June,
Here is an Oribe Green From Jack Troy's new book,Wood -Fired Porcelan and
Stoneware.A rather bright green glaze that can be almost mirror-black when
heavily appplied and reduced. Translucent, especially over porcelaneous
slips. I tried a batch last year. It can turn red when you reduce it !
21.0 potash spar
18.0 soda spar
16.0 silica
13.0 barium carb or 9.8 strontium carb
6.0 copper carb
4.0 tin oxide
2.0 bentonite
Gary Wang
/wang@nemesis.ece.ucsb.edu
Liz Dodge on fri 8 aug 97
Some cone 10 oribe glazes shared earlier on clayart are:
Oribe Green
Gloss
Potash Feldspar 30.07
Silica 24.28
Whiting 21.38
Talc 7.25
Kaolin 11.59
Copper Carbonate 5.43
"Shaner Oribe for C10-11R, contributed by earlier this year by stalwart
Clayart
Eitel, gave beautiful results "
Custer Spar 30.58
Flint 25.05
Whiting 22.13
Talc 7.72
EPK 12.42
Bone Ash 1.04
Bentonite 1.04
Copper Carb 5.20
Liz Dodge
Berkeley, CA
Does any one willing to share info about green Oribe glazes? are there any
low, mid or high fire temp glazes floating around that you might share? I
am also interested in any books or articles that pertain to this subject.
thanks for your time,
James LaChance
jllachance@aol.com
Fargo, ND
Sandra Dwiggins on sat 9 aug 97
Any oribe-type glazes for oxidation?
Sandy
Ron Roy on sat 9 aug 97
A word of cauction - a similar glaze was reported on clayart a few months
ago as changing colour when in contact with food - I think it was fruit of
some kind. 5% of copper in a glaze is more than can be disolved so that
some of the copper will be on the surface - in some cases this can be
rubbed off with your finger.
Using this type of glaze in contact with some foods will be less than
satisfactory.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Some cone 10 oribe glazes shared earlier on clayart are:
>
>
>
>Oribe Green
>Gloss
>
>
>Potash Feldspar 30.07
>Silica 24.28
>Whiting 21.38
>Talc 7.25
>Kaolin 11.59
>Copper Carbonate 5.43
>
>
>
>"Shaner Oribe for C10-11R, contributed by earlier this year by stalwart
>Clayart
>Eitel, gave beautiful results "
>
>
>Custer Spar 30.58
>Flint 25.05
>Whiting 22.13
>Talc 7.72
>EPK 12.42
>Bone Ash 1.04
>Bentonite 1.04
>Copper Carb 5.20
>
>
>Liz Dodge
>Berkeley, CA
>
>
>
>
>Does any one willing to share info about green Oribe glazes? are there any
>low, mid or high fire temp glazes floating around that you might share? I
>am also interested in any books or articles that pertain to this subject.
>thanks for your time,
>
>James LaChance
>jllachance@aol.com
>Fargo, ND
Ron Roy
Toronto, Canada
Evenings, call 416 439 2621
Fax, 416 438 7849
Studio: 416-752-7862.
Email ronroy@astral.magic.ca
Home page http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Akitajin \"Lee Love\" on sat 9 aug 97
Last Monday, we visited Warren MacKenzie. When we pulled up, he
had a bunch of his green pots out the back door of his studio and was
wearing rubber gloves and rubbing the pots with a cloth and dipping them
in a bucket of water.
He said he was taking the metallic surface off of the glaze with
Muriatic acid, he learned this trick from a potter in Japan who worked in
oribe. It really worked: a dark cloudy pot became brighter green after
the washing.
Lee
~
Lee in St. Paul, Minnesota U.S.A.
http://www.millcomm.com/~leelove/ikiru.html Come see my pottery.
On Sat, 9 Aug 1997 08:12:17 EDT Ron Roy writes:
>A word of cauction - a similar glaze was reported on clayart a few
>months
>ago as changing colour when in contact with food - I think it was
>fruit of
>some kind. 5% of copper in a glaze is more than can be disolved so
>that
>some of the copper will be on the surface - in some cases this can be
>rubbed off with your finger.
Wynne Wilbur on thu 13 nov 03
There is a good show at the Met in NY on Oribe. Here's the site:
http://www.metmuseum.org/special/index.asp?HomePageLink=special_l
Enjoy -
Wynne
--
Wynne Wilbur
Assistant Professor of Art
Truman State University
Kirksville, MO 63501
660 785-4435
mel jacobson on fri 2 mar 12
again, lee has made a point.
we suggest a name...like oribe...and think
it is all this, or all that.
the root glazes that many of us use all the
time came from many different kilns.
wood fired, coal, gas, oil, electric.
the atmosphere of the kiln makes the glaze.
often the original glaze came from sagger fired
or oxidation firing. they did not use reduction.
i bet they hated it.
what if the old time potters hated those brown,
crusty pots....and they sought clean color?????
(more money in color than poo brown.)
there is a new world out there folks for those
that have fuel kilns and try to fire with very
light reduction, or no reduction.
if you want color...don't over smoke your kiln.
fire with oxygen. it is far cheaper too.
it is foolish to think that a stoneware kiln is
always brown and gray...well it is if you over -reduce.
try different atmospheres, and see what happens...don't
judge everything by smoke.
i am just opening a kiln of colleen's restaurant commission.
she used iron red with bone ash (kaki)...no decoration.
i fired the kiln with almost no reduction. neutral.
they are really a lovely red. not temmoku black..a
nice maroon red. i hope others are as thrilled as i
am with this set of 125 silverware containers.
she took on this project and did it all herself.
no help from me. i fired the kiln. 125 perfectly
matched jars. how do you learn to throw well?
make a set of 125.
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart page below:
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
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